Greydog

Hi Jason Welcome to the Forum Just because we have had the sunshine splashing out and going topless Huh!! First while extended service intervals are common these days as an OLD engineer I have never trusted them so personally I would still change oils and filters at least annually The 135i BMW straight 6 is one of the worlds great engines as tough as a tough thing, at 80k with good maintenance it is just about run in. Good Luck with the new car Dave

Hi Trudy Welcome to the Forum You need codes read to be certain what the issue is or even if you have an issue at all. I have read that a simple reset often cures the problem. Turn off, remove key leave 5 or 10 mins restart and see what happens. Or disconnect the battery for a while that resets stuff also. If the fault persists you really need the codes read to have a chance of diagnosing the problem, a BMW dealer will be the most expensive, a BMW Specialist would be better or a good Independent Garage with something like Autologic will be able to run a diagnostic check if the fault returns. Good luck Dave

Morning Mark A new key from BMW will be around £110+ I would think, I have read that there is a Company on Ebay who repair keys for around £25 worth a look. Dave

Morning Nick As they have begun work under Warranty the Dealership have accepted it isn't a "normal characteristic" they will normally have discussed warranty work it with a BMW customer service manager. What you don't want to do is risk them saying "are but others have been here and may have disturbed something so it isn't our fault" so I would keep away from independent inspections unless it is a different BMW Dealer of course. Good Luck Dave

Hi Nick I would email to them first outlining your concerns regarding the fact that (1) They seemed to have problems diagnosing the issue first off (2) After further investigation they provided a repair which is not satisfactory. Point out that this has reduced your confidence in the reliability of the car and their ability to maintain it, ask what action they will take to rectify copy BMW UK Customer Services (you do need to give them an opportunity) Then go and see them let them explain the course of action they intend to take. If you find it unreasonable escalate your complaint explaining that you have spent good money with them but they have not provided goods that are "fit for purpose" and you require them to repair or replace them in a timely manner, if they cannot then a full refund would be your only recourse. By doing this you will have a record of what is happening that is a legal document should things get bumpy. Dealers vary, my local dealer is very good efficient and helpful, I used a Dealer 15 miles away and they were the absolute pit's. The Service Manager was arrogant to the point of rudeness. so sadly we pay our money and take our chances. I am sure they won't let it get that far Good Luck Dave

Morning Mark How frustrating is that First check the fuses in the right hand cubby in the boot 2 to check 7.5amp and 30amp if either are blown. If the fuses are OK the compressor should run, however if a clumsy fitter has clouted one of the ride height sensors when removing/replacing a wheel so check both are OK and the knee joint needs to be pointing at the wheel not inwards. Last is your battery OK low battery voltages on a tired or failing battery will trigger the fault. If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com there are some small exploded drawings that may help, also www.newtis.info Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike The drive shaft should have a compression locking ring that fit in groove on the splines that go into the diff. They normally need a fair amount of force to lever them out an when they go back in they need a good clump to compress the ring and get it seated. Have a look at www.realoem.com for the correct parts and either www.newtis.info or www.pelicanparts.com for "how too" information Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum I risk "Teaching Granny to Suck Eggs" but here goes, Turbo chargers in simple terms are exhaust driven superchargers. The exhaust side spins a common shaft that turns the compressor turbine. The compressor turbine pulls fresh air through the air filter into the turbine and pushes it out at higher pressure. The act of compressing the air causes heat so the compressed air takes a convoluted route through an intercooler before it gets to the inlet manifold. Any leak will make a whooshing sound. I did read about this problem with an X5 and it was an incorrect seal fitted at the intercooler. I would hope that at one or more of the joints in this high pressure side a seal has not been seated properly or a clamp not tightened, fingers crossed for you and your dealer that is the issue. The Sale of Goods Act is on your side as a real last resort,. but as the dealer has already attempted a repair they can't really not correct it. I would point out that while they have carried out work under warranty they have not inspired confidence in their ability to solve the issue in either the quality of workmanship or parts if the repair only lasts 3 weeks. Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum As with any used car purchase "Eyes Wide Open" general condition and service history are paramount. 97k is not excessive, what engine transmission and accessories are fitted are all things that will effect the price you pay/negotiate. Whether you can carry out repairs yourself or not again will effect whether it is worth the risk One of my sons brought a very cheap 09 325d touring Auto with a cracked exhaust manifold and a clogged EGR plus a couple of other small related engine issues £600 and 3 days work and we had it back in fine fettle, 3 years on it is a really nice car to drive. So it depends on you and your ability both my sons have grown up helping Dad tinker build and fix all sorts of stuff so are very capable home mechanics. Had they not been and had to rely on a garage the 3 series would have cost around £2k I would estimate at garage rates. Good Luck Dave

Morning Stephen Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical information site Dealers use the same information for repair and service information. Also use www.realoem.com this one is an online BMW parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up you model/year then look in the relevant section. This will ensure you get correct parts for your model. Dave

Hi Stu Remember the reprogramming is only for the Remote Access a new key will have to have the transponder in to enable starting, not sure if just getting a key cut will work?? Dave

Hi Martin Bargain of the year !!! The M54 straight six is one of the worlds great engines so with good maintenance will last and last. Gearbox tends to be the weak point as they often never get serviced just complained about when they break. If your not aware tyres are important to protect the transfer case and rear diff. Petrol consumption on the 6 is about the same as the V8's due to the cars weight apart from that great motors. Enjoy Dave If you haven't picked it up yet www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Makes sure your buying the right bits when you need them. www.newtis.info BMW Technical information used by Dealers for service and repair

Morning Martin You can buy the batteries if you need to repair the key fob, plenty of videos around showing how too do it If you don't have one a BMW specific code reader will prove invaluable, something like BMW 1.4.0, INPA, Carly for BMW, I use 1.4.0 which is mounted on on an old laptop which I keep just for garage work. Is yours 3.0, 4.4, or 4.6 like mine? Dave

Hi Martin Yes they will keep you alert making certain your always listening to them. The remote key is programmed to the EWS which controls the central locking and alarm, so to a large extent the door lock is irrelevant, as long as the key starts the car. There are three methods of programming the keys providing the fob batteries are good they should recharge while in the ignition. Method 1: 1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut 2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds. 3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds. 4. Release both buttons. 5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred. Method 2: To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed. 1) Get in and close all doors. 2) Turn on the ignition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds. 3) Remove the 1st key. 4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote receiver antenna. 5) Hold down the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times. Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation. 6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc. If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key 1, vs 1 then 2. Method 3: Alternate if you do not have a working remote 1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly 2. Remove key 3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button. 4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds 5. Turn on ignition to finalise. This should program your key to the EWS and let you lock unlock remotely. If not it could be a fault with the antenna in the car or batteries in the key fobs Good Luck Dave

Morning Jake Welcome to the Forum Your car must have headlamp leveling and/or headlamp cleaning systems to be legal when Xenon headlamps are fitted. Your standard lamps can be upgraded with some thing like Osram Nightbreaker which I find are very good in our other cars. The ultimate is Xenon but for this you will need the complete headlamp unit and ballast plus you may need some programming to get your car to recognise them. Check www.realoem.com to see if they were an option for your model. Then check www.newtis.info for installation information. As for the headlamp units the famous Auction site and specialist BMW breakers are your best bet but if money no object your local Dealership will no doubt be willing to lighten your wallet. Dave

Morning Will Welcome to the Forum I am not aware of any changes in the BMW Warranty which was 3 years from first registration this can be extended if you have taken the extended BMW warranty option (expensive) I will also say as with all these things it is going to depend on your Dealership, I had issues with clear coat peeling which was sorted even though the car was well outside the warranty. Write to BMW UK customer services explaining the situation and your disappointment at the poor attitude from the Dealer Good Luck Dave

Morning Ben Welcome to the Forum One mans hard ride is another mans sporty ride BMW think we all like sport? So having owned both 4.4 and 4.6 E53 X5's I have developed a view on ride quality based on my aching back. We have a road locally that is like driving on a tarmac ploughed field which I avoid as much as possible Things that have an effect on ride are: (1) Tyres from the picture it looks like you are running 19" Staggered wheels which should have 255x55x19 Front and 285x45x19 Rear Tyres can have a big influence on comfort due to side wall stiffness as will the pressure they are run at. Plus they should be Non Runflat type, runflats are renowned for their hard ride due to side walls being stiff enough to carry the cars weight. (2) Shock absorber type will make a huge difference your car may be running sport suspension from the factory. If they have stiffened up with age (we all do) then they will jar over lumps and bumps. (3) Springs I would think there are options for sport or comfort but I have never checked. You could look at www.realoem.com to see what is available. (4) Last but not least the seats, two types Sport or Comfort So first thing I would do is put the Vin number into BMW Vin Decoder it should bring up the original build spec, this will allow you to see if you have the "Sport" or "Comfort" suspension Wheels 18" will have tyres with a taller side wall so be a softer ride (my 4.6is runs 20" wheels as standard the winter wheels are 18" so I know the difference) Shock Absorbers the difference just replacing with new makes can be amazing, I did this on the 4.4. Replacing shocks with softer bump and rebound should be a possibility. Bit of a ramble but I hope it helps Dave

Hi Keith Welcome to the Forum Limp mode can be caused by a number of issues you need the codes read to be sure. How was it driving before the issue? How many miles has it done? What service history ? When was the gearbox last serviced ? You need either someone with BMW specific software or a Garage with Autologic Dave

Hi Robert 20" wheels sound right quite possibly staggered (wider rear rims) Isnt it just brilliant when a supposedly well trained tyre fitter or worse mechanic uses an air wrench set to well above the required torque to tighten up our wheels !!!😠 Brembo Calipers would point to 360 mm Brake discs, my X5 4.6is runs 360 mm solid discs at the front as well so if they stop a 21/2 ton 4x4 and they certainly do, they should do a cracking job on a 3 series touring 😁 Apart from up grading the discs to cross drilled/perforated there isn't much you can do by way of improvement, even that I believe would be just aesthetics. AP racing did some fancy 6 piston calipers but they would be horribly expensive and for road use not show a great improvement over what you have already. With a good ECU upgrade you should see 280+hp 600nm torque which will make your touring fly, my brother inlaw has a tweeked 530d touring serviced by BMW now on almost 300k (he commutes to Germany) it still gives 45mpg on the motorway 30 if he is hammering it, and he does frequently. This is his 3rd and he will replace this one with a 335d great engines his only deviation from BMW service schedule is oil changes every 5k and Auto box serviced to ZF schedules by a ZF specialist. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Again Not easy to identify the calipers from the pictures they look like 4 pot which follows the performance upgrade theory. Blue Calipers seem to be a BMW favourite colour at the moment. Standard brakes for your car are Front 348 x 30 solid disc Rear 336 x 22 solid disc Standard BMW calipers front and rear M3 Brakes were Front 360 x 30 perforated disc Rear 350 x 24 perforated disc Calipers could be Brembo or 4 pot BMW M sport Wheel size may restrict going up to full M3 spec in order to clear the calipers. When you get the wheels off look for any part numbers and use those to identify them. Take a look at www.realoem.com you will be able to search both your model (put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box) you should be able to find what was standard and if there were any Msport parts and part numbers. You can also search the M models to check what parts are required if you go that route, if you click on the part numbers you can see which other models they were used on. I hope this helps Good Luck Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Wayne £1200 😲 Ouch I take it that is a BMW Dealer? if not they are charging at least £100/phr Look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box it will call up your model then look at the relevant section. You will find a small exploded drawing showing where stuff goes and a parts list with prices, if the valve block is available separately then it will be listed and a price in US $ beside it. Then check a couple of web sites for "How Too's" www.pelicanparts.com an American site but has some great how too descriptions with pictures, or www.newtis.info a BMW Technical site Dealerships use this information for service and repair. For what its worth my brother inlaw's 530d touring's compressor failed a new one from Ebay cost him less than £200 and took us around 3 hours to fit with plenty of refreshment breaks. Tip change the suspension relay at the same time. Dave

Morning Daniel Simple things first is always my approach, you now have 2 separate inspections that point to a leaky gasket plus a failing oil cap. Simplest first step is to get a new oil cap and gasket, fit it clean thoroughly around the area then run the engine for a few days and see if the leak has gone. Often there is spillage around this area due to clumsy topping up of the oil level (tip: buy a small funnel to keep in the boot and use it when topping up) If the leak is still there then the gaskets are next, I just took a quick look at www.realoem.com and the gasket set for your engine shows gaskets for sealing the cover and around the spark plugs but no VVT so that's confusing here is the complete parts list with cost in US Dollars so roughly the same in £ Part No.DescriptionSupp. Qty From Up To Part NumberPriceNotes01Cylinder head cover111127552281$378.13 02Profile-gasket111127582245 $29.77 03Gasket111127559699 $11.81 05Torx screwM7X33.51511127558448$2.3809Ignition coil covering111127575032$96.9810Fillister head with washerM6X20-ZNNID SW407119906086$0.4711BMW emblem111147788967$11.2612Cap for oil filler101/201511127560482$16.16ENDED 12Cap for oil filler111128655331 13Profile-gasket111127565165 $6.02 14Vent hose111157559528$40.0215Torx screwM7X33.5111127558449$4.8216Torx screwM7X35111127558450$4.3717Hex boltM7X46111127558453$0.7818Torx screwM7X36211127558454$0.7819Threaded boltM7X75211127558451$5.4220Sleeve611127575422$3.1421Metal bracket111127556145$3.0022Clip nut111127565497$1.0723Screw60X14211127556161$1.5325Covering cap111617547229$1.1229C-clip nutM6-ZNS3351127070202$1.00 I have highlighted in Red the parts (Total parts cost about £60 ) I also had a quick look at www.newtis.info there is no mention in the technical repair section about replacing the VVT or it being part of the kit? Another reason to use a BMW Specialist not just an Independent mechanic if you are unable to DIY. It really is worth using these sites as a little knowledge when talking with these guys can protect your wallet. Good Luck Dave

Hi Francesco The Marelli starter motors would start the cars OK it is just that they would draw massive amounts of amps starving all the other stuff of power and draining batteries causing all sorts of strange issues until the battery is recharged which could take 10 to 15mins Regarding the Battery fitting an oversize/rated battery is a myth, often the alternator can't fully charge the battery this can result in the battery failing early. Large capacity/fast recovery batteries are often specified for cars with stop/start facility, these cars also have a beefier charging circuit yours doesn't have that. Your battery should be something like 12v/85 to 90Ah/800 to 900 cca (Cold Cranking Amps) ECP had an offer on over Easter Bosche Battery's were less than £100 delivered even Halfords should be around £120. As an example my X5 E53 4.6is needed a new battery in November last year I brought a Yuasa 12v/110Ah/900CCA battery from a local motor factors £129. FYI a fully charged battery should read 12.8 v engine off, around 14.8v engine running, anything below 12v indicates a discharged or dying battery or suspect charging system. Dave

Hi Francesco Welcome to the Forum From your description I would guess at 2 possible culprits (1) Starter Motor there was a well documented issue with Magnetti starters some time ago. Apparently they start to draw massive current as they begin to fail (2) Battery X5's are well known for their hunger for amps so a battery that isn't in tip top condition can show all sorts of spurious faults. Good Luck Dave