Greydog

Morning Jaro208 Welcome to the Forum Wow where to start !! Your description certainly seems to point to the Dual Mass fly wheel. The issue is more a pain than difficult just remember all the bits involved are big and heavy so make sure that (a) there is plenty of room under the car (b) it is well supported on proper axel stands. Have a trolley jack ready to support the weight of the box also remember dual mass flywheels are no lightweight. If you are not aware of them here are a couple of web sites that may help (1st) www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number in the search box it will bring up your model. This will help when buying parts that you know will fit (2nd) www.pelicanparts.com This is an American site so the steering wheel is on the wrong side but all the important stuff is in the same place as your car, open the site and select "How Too" then your model type then scroll through to the section you need. All their How Too's have excellent pictures Read as much as you can first make sure you have all the parts/tools you need and don't rush and it will be fine Timing? What are you thinking of changing? Is the timing chain noisy? Most timing chain issues I have experience of means engine out and strip down. Dave

Morning Paul I thought the supplemental light was the third brake light ?? Can't remember where I read that but worth checking. You can change the Angel eye bulbs for LED replacements that brighten them up if it's a concern. Dave

Welcome to the Forum lake-eleven If your in the UK and your BMW is under 3 years old then it should still be covered by the Manufacturers Warranty which normally is 3 years or 60k BMW also offer extended Warranty though at a cost though that should not be needed until the Manufacturer Warranty expires. There are also many after market Warranties available that are less expensive than BMW. But your in the USA then according to BMW Ultimate Care+ is transferable to a subsequent owner, should you sell your vehicle. Extend your coverage: Extend BMW Ultimate Care+ 1, 2, 3, or 4 additional years or 89,000 miles for a total of up to 125,000 miles (3 years for Model year 2016 and older). I have read that Vehicle owners may purchase a two-year Maintenance Program extension from an authorized BMW Center during the first four years after the vehicle's in-service date or 50,000 total miles, whichever comes first. MSRP for the extension ranges from $1,395 to $2,995, depending on the model. Luckily I live in the UK Good Luck enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum First check the tyres for signs of odd wear also check the tyre pressures. I take it all tyres are the same make and type? Does it happen on all roads or just in certain places? When run flats are nearing end of life they are known to tramline so they could be following the camber? A sticking calliper can also cause those symptoms. After a reasonable run walk around place your hand on the wheel centres if one is hotter than the rest it could be a sticking Calliper. Check all tyre pressures get a digital pressure gauge as forecourt inflators can vary quite a bit. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

A man needs Hobbies Kenny 😂 Unfortunately 99% + of car owners out there the car goes in for service/MOT once every year at best, in between service's unless something starts to rattle or drops off they don't even open the bonnet !! Then at 2nd/ 3rd owner a wally/gorilla like your seller gets their hands on it and "make improvements" The ingenuity of some primates as you are learning has to be experienced to be believed🤣 It's kept David Attenborough employed/amused for years 😁 Dave

Morning Mando Looking really good Exhaust check realoem E46 and E90 M3 which should be a possible swap from the Cat's back if it looks possible then start looking for either second hand or aftermarket Dave

Don't give in Kenny If the part your looking at in realoem has a little camera symbol click it you will see a picture of what it is that may help Take a look at pelicanparts.com how too, it shows the clamps clearly and it may help. Prices vary across Dealers depending on who your dealing with and what the part is clearly some of them like a "padded" margin?? Many fixings and fasteners torx screws etc I buy from a local fixings specialist (1) because it is 1/2 mile away they normally have stuff in stock and are happy to sell 1's and 2's Plastic clips and mouldings I buy from Cotwold BMW. When rebuilding my engine I forgot to order a new Jesus Bolt and Woodruff key my local Dealer was slow and expensive Cotswold 72hr delivery and just a little half the cost quoted by my local dealer. You have to be near the end of "his I Fixed it" list by now? I haven't looked at how the way the clamps work do the rubber inserts have a serrated face so that when the glass is pushed into them they grip, or does the clamp tighten and grip when the screw is done up? If it is the later I would be tempted to try adding some rubber to see if it will fix the problem Dave

Morning Kenny Just had a look at realoem and it does indeed only list 1 clamp used left and right and the same part number?? As realoem is up to date if there was an upgrade it should show? it also only shows 2 fixings a M6 x 20 torx bolt x 8 and a Filister head screw x 4 So I am struggling to see what your Dealers parts guy is even looking at? Did you give him a part number or did he ask for your Vin number? Take a look at pelicanparts.com in their "how too's" 5 series E60 window regulator replacement they have pictures showing the 2 glass clamps do yours still have the rubber inserts ? If the rubber inserts are missing why not try a piece of innertube or similar cut to size. As for price try Cotswold BMW their parts guys are very helpful often offering discounts for "older" models like ours and they will post stuff. Dave

Morning Roy What are you trying to achieve?? Better Ride ? More Grip ? Quieter Ride ? Runflats are well known for delivering a harsh ride, particularly towards the end of their useful life, as well as more road noise. So if you are keeping the same wheels buy the same size tyres but non run flat, just don't buy cheap. Tyre footprint is about the size of a saucer, and that's all there is to accelerate, stop and steer your car. I always stay with recognised brands I am on Yoko's at the moment 275 x 40 x 20 Front 315 x 35 x 20 Rear. My brother inlaw has 535d touring and runs 245 x 40 x 19 Front 275 x 35 x 19 Rear Bridgestone non runflats. If changing wheels to try and improve ride quality by fitting tyres with a taller side wall Brake size will dictate what will fit (18" I believe) so something like 245 x 45 x 18 may give a more forgiving ride Dave

Hi Stewart There are several Transmission specialists who sell it Try Google or Ebay you should be able to get even in deepest darkest France 🤣 Try the old Battery disconnect trick see if that resets the Light Check or it may be that it needs resetting in the ZKE you will need a Diagnostic program or someone with one to do that. Dave

Fun aren't they 🤣 Beer helps unstick super glue 👍 Dave

Morning James Worth getting a copy of ISTA/INPA for yourself it will be a much quicker way of identifying issues (cheaper too as a couple of Diagnostic sessions will be more expensive) After water ingress it could well be an issue with the LCM/FCM as so much communication goes through the unit. A good diagnostic will show it up Dave

Afternoon Alec Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Crayg Welcome to the Forum A BMW foible I am afraid you don't say what year and model ? On my X5 2003 vintage I developed and installed a circuit that closes my mirrors on lock and opens them on unlock. it drove the Dealer mad when it was in for service 3 of their Techs asked several times how it was possible. If the model you have is compatible and If you are electrically inclined and are able to do a little work yourself I can send a drawing Dave

Morning Samuel Welcome to the Forum There are 2 types of Headlamp unit for your car I believe Halogen or Xenon Halogen should be something like Main H7 12v 55w Indicator PY 12v 21w yellow Halos 12v 5w Xenon Should be something like Dip D1 12v 35w Main 12v 55w H7 Halo ZKW unit, Indicator 12v 21w silver Your handbook should have all the information you need Dave

Answered above in your first post

Hi AMV8 (do you have one?) Welcome to the Forum Just check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your mums Vin into the search box, it will call up your model then check the wheels & Tyres section it will give you all the info you need. Wintrac Extreme are thewinter tyre of my choice I run them on the X5 Dave

Hi Mike Welcome to the Forum What a hard choice first the Maintenance/Reliability issue when my X5 came to the end of it's manufacturers warranty I could have extended it with BMW (expensive) so I took an after market Warranty there are loads to choose from which has protected me against big bills until it's 18th birthday. Both I and the X5 have matured together like a fine wine 😂 I do like tinkering one of my hobbies, so I have a full diagnostic suite on an old lap top and can carry out any work with the same knowledge as the main dealer. I run a scan once a month at least and if there is an issue that needs attention I deal with it (I have a couple of younger bendier sons) if it means crawling underneath. If it is something beyond my capabilities or I just don't have the time I use a BMW Specialist who is (a) local (b) less than half BMW cost. Doesn't happen very often. As for which to choose bearing in mind I am not a two door or convertible fan M6 all the way, under 4.5 secs to 62mph limited 155mph ( 190 with the limiter lifted) The 650i is basically the same engine with less go. Both are lovely cars though tough choice What ever the choice ENJOY Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum There is an old saying "Speed costs money, How fast can you afford to go" There are several things to try first if you haven't already, (1) ECU tuning can yield good results on forced induction engines, (2) Better Intercooler (3) Better air intake and filter. (4) Better Downpipe and exhaust. Don't forget Suspension Brakes and Steering a bit dumb being able to go faster if all you do is get to the accident quicker. If you get to the point of an upgraded or larger Turbo you will also get the down side of Turbo lag, and higher insurance costs. It may be easier and simpler to trade what you have for a 1 series with a larger engine Dave

Hi Nigel Welcome to the Forum I am surprised that your mpg is that low we have friends who have a 2010 X3 same engine and they return 27/28 around town mid to high 40's on a run When was it last serviced? Are the brakes all free nothing binding? 19" wheels shouldn't make much difference apart from ride quality due to the lower profile tyres. Are the tyres correctly inflated ? Your Audi A6 was it Quattro as one of our sons ran an A6 Allroad 3.0 tdi and he only ever saw 40mpg on the motorway he loved it but sadly it broke a lot Dave

Morning Terence Welcome to the Forum Well done on the salvage and rebuild job, once water has got into a loom it can take a long time to completely dry out and it can pull water up by capillary action and pins get corroded. So I think you may well have a long job ahead slowly checking and cleaning connectors, you are quite right about the earth points BMW love Comb type earth points when checking cleaning those I would dismount the unit and clean its contact point and bolt I use electrical contact paste from RS Components when reassembling. Stop Start systems are another thing to check, plus are the batteries correctly registered and charging correctly, is the alternator putting out the correct charge? Just thinking out loud here. One of my Merc's suffered dying battery syndrome Dealer fitted 2 under warranty turned out to be a failed diode in the voltage regulator allowing current bleed back when the engine was off? Good Luck Dave

Phil Collins today

Morning Jim Welcome Stu is quite right the PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 diagnostic is great and in my opinion the best and easiest to get to grips with it will work with all BMW's that have I-bus communication. For newer models with K and M bus communication then other systems are needed. If your an engineer with a "need to know" (or as my Daughter says GEEK) like me you end up with them all, and not just for BMW. Like Stu all my diagnostics sit on an old Win7 laptop which I keep in the garage on top of the beer fridge 😂 Your Sat Nav/Radio problem when I brought the first 4.4 E53 it had issues in the end I fitted a Dynavin unit because it retained the OBC function (the Geek thing again) you will need a 5m extension to run from the boot to the dash I added to the loom an extension for the Radio antenna and the Nav antenna. All the BMW OEM stuff I sold on Ebay and got more than the cost of the Dynavin ?? Mad. My E53 4.6is is all OEM still and everything works. (So Far !! 😁) Most common cause of issues with the PDC are first the sensors and connectors, water ingress from jet washes and car washes corner ones can be fiddly if you have fat fingers like me but an easy to change item, make sure you clean the connectors with a good contact cleaner. If there are still issues then it could be the PDC control unit in the boot by the BM54 Radio unit again an easy change and plenty out there. ENJOY your E53 Dave

Looks like that could do the job nicely Dave

You are welcome Stewart I would try a tube of Dr Tranny in your beasty not normally a promotor of "snake oil" type fixes but this is one that works, 2 of the 5 series touring that my brother inlaw has owned (same box) had persistent TC Lock up faults. BMW Dealer tried the "New Gearbox" route, a Specialist suggested a new Torque Converter a still expensive a tube of Dr Tranny as an experiment fixed the first one it took about two weeks to work into the system then fault cleared and never returned. When the fault came up on the second car we just stuck a tube in same result. Hopefully it will work for you. Yes all good here not difficult to social distance when yo walk with 5 dogs and Majestic Wine are still delivering so the essentials are all covered 🤣 Dave