Greydog

Morning Stu "Mais rápido" in the dark with Elton playing !!! Jeeze you know how to live life on the edge 🤣😂 Dave

Hi Pete There have been numerous posts on many Forums over the years about this "Driver Aid" but unfortunately BMW's clever brigade appear to have taken a system which has been around for years overly complicate it. Luckily my X5 is of a vintage that doesn't have it. My AMG's had Hill Hold so does my Wife's Subaru Outback both only work to stop the car rolling back on a slope. What BMW seem to have achieved is a "Drive Off Assistant" that does just the opposite? Progress in traffic must keep you on your toes. I still think there must be some sort of adjustment that will make easier to live with have you checked www.newtis.info all the service bullitins should be available so you can see if there were any recalls or upgrades Dave

Hi Pete Welcome to the Forum I assume you mean the "Hill Hold" function is sticking I am not aware of a way to turn it off I am afraid. It is obviously not working correctly so I would either fix it yourself or get it sorted at a BMW specialist. If doing it yourself take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical site all the information should be there. Dave

Afternoon James Welcome to the Forum I use Walkers Autotech Andy Walker is very knowledgeable and helpful he is at Wisborough Green if that helps he also can supply a courtesy car if needed Other wise check the site for someone closer. Dave

Morning Stu I wonder if the after market headlamp units are the cause? Headlamp units from any E53 up to 2003 will fit, the facelift ones 2004 on (for simplicity) with clear indicators wont fit. Also check out companies like Cree for HID conversions to the standard light units they are well known been around for years and as far as I know their kits are complete so no faffing around. Best solution would be OEM HID lamps one of the specialist breakers would be my first call plus a polishing/lens cleaning kit to make them pritine before fitting. Or you could drive really slowly listening to Elton, the driving really slowly is so you don't run over your Guide Dog !! 🤣 Dave

Morning Andrew Okay that narrows it a little, at least it would seem there are no mechanical issues. It could be a sensor or the gearbox controller. The controller receives signals to decide on which gear to select and when. Signals tell it about road speed, engine temp, engine revs and its own oil temperature. I have read that the plug connector and its housing can cause issues. Take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical Information site BMW Dealers use the same information for service and repair information. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model Good Luck Dave

Morning Tony Are you using the manual Climate control selections or is it set in Automatic ? Auto will overide manual settings to maintain the selected temperature Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum I haven't heard of this one before, You need a BMW specific Diagnostic Program, Generic system will only see the DDE and not the many other inter linked control systems. Has the Gearbox selected the gear you want while the display is moving between gears? When driving are the gear changes smooth and normal ? Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to see if it re-sets it's self (disconnect Neg first) worth a try as it is free. If the reset doesn't work then there are a number of things that could be the cause such as Low transmission fluid, it could be the gear selector switch, or the EWS gearbox control. The poor old gearbox is often completely ignored when a car is serviced yet repair or replacement is as expensive as an engine? You don't say how many miles the car has covered (i would guess 100k +) as an example with my x5 ZF advise service every 60 to 100,000 km about 60,000 miles. Start with a reset then a good code read by someone with a specific program Dave

Morning Gemma Are you sure that what you see in the mirrors are not the down lights (Puddle Lights) my neighbour works for BMW and tells me he was not aware of a side camera system for the X1 front and rear but not side? There are manouvering sensors that can be fitted but they are part of the ultra sonic system. Do you have Rear view camera and Front view cameras fitted? If not it could be a costly upgrade as control computer,, cameras, maybe loom and fitting plus coding to the car will be needed. Dave

Morning Daniel Not good news !! A code read by someone with BMW specif diagnostics may reveal more detail. I have read of these electric pumps failing at low mileages (not what you want to hear) but check what supplier guarantee/warranty was on the part fitted.Borg Beck are a "known name" supplier it may be worth contacting them (or getting your mechanic to) to see if they will give any support? Have you checked www.realoem.com to ensure the part fitted is the correct equivalent ? it will also give you a feel for the OEM price though in US$ as it is an American site You could also check www.newtis.info a BMW Technical site used by BMW Dealers for repair, replacement and service information. With both sites put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Even if you are using a Garage to do the work knowledge is power and will help you identify if any Bull Poo being spread. Good Luck Dave

Not tight as we age we become "careful" One thought that may be worth exploring is BMW E53 and Range Rover L322 models shared a whole load of technology across the ranges As many more Range Rovers came with Heated Wheels it may be worth a check Dave

Morning Tony I believe screen clearance is an "override" setting where as the heater/climate control is an onboard memory function. So when the key is removed it reverts to climate control preferences. Dave

Morning Martin My neighbour runs a 2013 reg 320d tyres are 225-50 x 17 and he has just done exactly the same thing swapped Run Flats for conventional Bridgestone he runs 32 front 36 rear if that helps. Dave

Hi Bryan Here in Sunny Sussex we haven't had it cold enough for a pair of gloves let alone a heated wheel for years my winter wheels haven't been on the car in the last 3 years. Some of the 4.8is were supplied with heated wheels as were other models depending on Customer order. As for a source the well known auction sites and specialist breakers are worth a search. I do know of others who have fitted the paddle shift wheels and know you have to change the wheel and clock spring for that to work Try looking for a heated wheel from a 4.8is, you may also need Diagnostic/Coding software to activate it once fitted. Also check www.newtis.info for any other items that use fuse 29 in case you already have another accessory using it Let us know if it works

Morning Perry Whats the old saying "Life is what happens to you while your planning other things" From your description it would appear to be Pump/Filter related there are 2 pumps in the fuel tank one feeds the fuel filter the other moves fuel over the transmission tunnel hump then there is another pump (on the Diesels) under the front seat area I believe. It is not unknown for fuel filters to be clogged as they are not the easiest to change (even Dealers have missed them) A Fuel Rail pressure check should tell you if (A) the pumps are running OK and (B) If there is leaky injectors that are letting pressure drop There are wiring diagrams on www.newtis.info so continuity checks for power to the pumps should be a straight forward operation Good luck with the scan Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Misfire's can be caused by a number of things as you are probably aware. Is your diagnostic program BMW specific? Misfire, could be plugs, coil packs, loom to the coil packs, DME fault (BMW Specific Diagnostic will help), fuel delivery (injector leak). The smoke may be unburnt fuel, when the load is increased (AC on) it gets burnt off? If you haven't already I would do the simple free stuff first. Swap coils around see if the misfire moves. Inspect the plugs and change if needed. Check carefully the loom for signs of wear/rubbing which could indicate a short under load. Clean all connectors with a good Electrical Contact cleaner and re-seat. Check the induction side for any air/vacuum leaks. If you aren't aware here are a couple of web sites that may help. 1. www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list so when buying stuff you know it will fit, Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. 2. www.newtis.info a BMW Technical information site Dealers use this for repair and replacement information, same search criteria. www.pelicanparts.com great "how to's" with pictures Hope I have helped not hindered Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First avoid private sales as you will have little or no protection under the sale of goods act. With your budget go for a BMW Approved Used Car (AUC) as you will get a BMW extended Warranty as part of the deal (Or at least I would make sure it is and not an extra) Make sure everything on the car works as it should, make sure all service history is correct and up to date, make sure the tyres are all good with plenty of tread you don't want the cost of tyres a couple of months after buying. Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Nice car. All modern cars but diesels in particular are not happy with short journey's where they don't reach full operating temperature. Exhaust temperature is the most important to allow the Emissions equipment and DPF to work correctly. Your car is under warranty so you have a few years protection but time spent at the Dealer is frustrating. Our youngest son (mid 30's) runs a diesel Toyota Pickup) 80% of his journeys are local and he was getting issues until he learned that at least once a week the car needs a good blast at least 50 miles at good speed to make sure the emissions stuff gets to working temperature and can do it's job. All was good for the first 2 years then the EGR system needed attention frequently .he is a tree surgeon so while the Toyota Garage were great and always offered a courtesy car it couldn't carry all his kit? He was on the verge of getting rid when one of his customers with a commercial diesel business (Truck Service) told him to give it a good "Italian Tune Up" once a week. In his 3rd year ownership we would remove and clean the EGR monthly, the real issue was the DPF wasn't getting hot enough to regenerate and burn of the soot. Since he changed his driving habit we have only cleaned the EGR once in 2 years. So my advice,from what I have learned and since read is at least a couple of times a month give it a good blast to let it clear it's throat. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Bryan Welcome to the Forum Good luck with the changes whatever they are and we will be here to help if we can. Dave

Morning Norm Here's some bedtime reading for you Dave Tab7_Central_Body_Electronics_Z.pdf

Hi Robert I know how you feel my X5 is the same age. I have a Ctec charger and use it once a month to refresh the battery, I had to fit a new battery last year and was surprised to find out it was the original !! Unfortunately BMW in their wisdom decided to classify the gearbox as sealed for life ?? While ZF state service every 60 to 80k for BMW life clearly meant end of Warranty. If your going to keep it I would find a ZF service centre and get it serviced fluid and filters.they will also run a diagnostic on the box to be sure. Dave

Hi Paul Look in the passenger footwell behind the trim you will find the LCM (Light Control Module) and near it a multiple comb type Earth point. The :CM doesn't just control the lights in true BMW fashion it also handles signals to several other components. The earth point also has connections to several other circuits in the fuse board. A Web Site that may help is www.pelicanparts.com they have some great "How To's" with pictures just remember it's an American site so steering on the wrong side Keep asking questions that is what the Forum is about Dave

Morning Norm Welcome to the Forum First I would back track and make sure that everything is connected correctly and no pinched wires, pay special attention to the Drivers door window control switch (it is the master) remove the connectors and clean the pins with a good electrical connection cleaner. Then reconnect and test you could also try removing cleaning and replacing fuses 20 & 24 (check that as my old brain might be tricking me) Hope this helps Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum Nice car, I was thought that Comfort Access was a standard on the top of the range models like the 135's (but then I am an old bloke so senility could be creeping in?) Have you checked one of the Vin decoder sites it will bring up the build sheet for your car I have used https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/vin/decoder in the past, just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box Good luck enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Perry Sounds like your having fun (not) and from what you describe and your actions you are capable of and don't mind getting your hands grubby. If you are not aware take a look at www.newtis.info It is a BMW Technical Information site BMW main Dealers use the same for repair and service information. Either put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will call up your model. All the wiring diagrams are there plus technical information. As Stu says a BMW specific diagnostic program is a great help. I had a few weird issues with my 4.4 when I owned it I traced it eventually to a poor earth point. BMW use common earth points (combs) so several items use the same earth point, in my case it was the one in the back of the boot behind the spare wheel (or in my case the LPG Tank god they are heavy) there is one bolt holding the comb to the chassis it was rusty so I undid it cleaned it treated the rust and used an electrical contact paste when bolting back. All weird behavior halted no more current drain. There are several earth points around the car one in the passenger footwell under the LCM I gave all mine the same treatment just to be sure. I don't know if that is your issue but as it's free it's got to be worth a go. However it could be the inline fuel pump, the glow plug relay, the high pressure fuel rail sensor, even a clogged/blocked fuel filter (when a was it last changed) I have even read of the transfer pump in the tank failing and when less than half a tank the issues start. I would use the technical site and if you need parts check www.realoem.com same method last 7 digits of your Vin to call up your model I hope Iv'e helped not hindered Good Luck Dave