Greydog

Don't post them, our Postie keeps telling they were leaking 🤣🤣

If the engine is stripped already my personal route would be another head assembly. Checked for flatness with a good straightedge and a torch. If OK I would fit new valves and springs and rebuild the engine. Always worth more as a running car than a project

Morning Simon Check www.realoem.com for BMW recommendations 18" 19" 20" personally I would steer clear of bigger sizes as tyre options become restricted It depends I guess on what it fitted now, are the current wheel/tyre combination staggered (wider at the back) or square (same width front and back) You could go to something like 20" 275x40x20R front and 315x35x20R rear or 20" 275x40x20R all round with spacers at the rear Beauty as they say is in the eye of the beholder so one mans "Gucci" is another mans Yuk Just enjoy your Beemer Dave

Whoop Whoop great news Dan well done Matey

Morning Guido I spent most of my working life involved with materials handling systems and their controls, if we were migrating a clients control package/system upgrade whatever the reason we NEVER turned off what was there until the new package was fully commissioned. Sadly it seems BMW (like many others) just shut stuff down just crazy. My neighbour works for BMW Group I will see if he's home and ask if he can help. Just spoke with him and he accessed what he could of the archive so here goes, production started in March 1976 with complete car assembly by Karmann some early cars were 3.0cs (can't find numbers yet) he believes all 633 were CSi. Karmann built complete cars until August 1977 After August Karmann made bodies but assembly was by BMW late 1977 they started to produce the 635CSi. Apparently the 1976/77 Karmann built cars are proverbial Rocking Horse Poo he suggests contacting Karmann they will have chassis records, apparently BMW are due up and running soon !! So if your car was registered in 1976 or early 1977 chances are it's pretty special. Fingers crossed for you Dave

I assume ECU, Throttle Body and cams, As all the heads appear to be the same the only things variable are (a) Capacity (b) ECU program (c) Throttle Body (d) Camshaft duration/lift I thought you were just rebuilding the motor in the X3 and looking for a head that would fit. Remember if you change the engine you will have to change the sump as it also mounts the front diff and has to have a Drive Shaft pass through it there are probably a few other differences I have not thought of. Best option would be the 3.0i engine from either the X3 or X5 both would need the corresponding ECU and the ECU would need matching to your existing chassis and other key control units Dave

Hi Les I have a couple of lists of all the ULF/Telematic units that I used when finding the best upgrade for my X5 I hope it helps Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW Online Parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section there a re small exploded drawing to help identify if your exhaust is standard or not. Hope the lists help Dave BMW ULF.odt BMW_TCUandULF_PartNumbers.pdf

Morning Dan Turbos get flippin hot, years ago people would shut the engine down and the oil in the turbo would bake. As you can imagine they failed on a regular basis, advice then was let the car tick over for 5 or 10mins to allow everything time to cool down. Today turbos have much longer lives thanks to onboard systems. It may be part of the cars protection program that keeps the vanes moving until it cools down, haven't heard it before but now I will check. It could be the coolant system Aux pump circulating to cool things down while the actuator moves the vanes through their range. Dave

Morning Guido Welcome to the Forum Wow just wow, if your car is genuine then you could have your hands on a very rare car indeed. The E24 was a development from the E9 as far as I know production number s were very low around 200 cars mid 1970's to late 1980's. I am told that the early cars bodies were produced by Karmann which would make it rarer still. You must have Chassis/ Engine numbers I would contact BMW direct for help they should be able to trace at least it's production history Dave

Hi Jim I believe the valves in your head are Inlet 33mm Exhaust 30.5mm a quick look at the TIS and it seems to indicate all the heads up to the 3.0 use the same Cylinder Head /Valve combination The models it was used on are as follows 3' E46   (04/1997 — 12/2018) 5' E39   (02/1995 — 12/2003) 5' E60   (12/2001 — 02/2005) 5' E61   (10/2002 — 02/2005) 7' E38   (03/1995 — 07/2001) 7' E65   (07/2002 — 02/2005) 7' E66   (09/2002 — 02/2005) X3 E83   (01/2003 — 07/2006) X5 E53   (08/1999 — 09/2006) Z3 E36   (04/1996 — 06/2002) Z4 E85   (01/2002 — 11/2005) It isn't until you get to the M3 that the intake changes to 35mm exhaust stays the same obviously cams are very different. Just talked to a pal who runs a tuning company he informs me that your 2.5 motor in standard trim will give around 190 bhp and ecu tune on its own would lift it to 210 ish bhp with cams some intake work and a better exhaust around 250 is easy to achieve. If the motor were changed to the 3.0i 250bhp is your starting point. Hope this helps you Dave

Hi Dan The fact everything works points towards either a low or dying battery voltage should be 12.8v engine/ignition off 14+v with the engine running If the battery is down when you start all power is diverted to the starter so the diagnostic see's multiple faults as other stuff is starved of power. Dave

Chris if checking make sure you ceck the earth point for the rear light cluster Dave

Hi Chris When you say the computer are you referring to the cars onboard self check system or a Diagnostic program plugged into the OBD port. A program such as ISTA will show all recorded faults and whether they are currently present or not Normal suspect is poor contact at the actual lamp holder a long time ago I brought a good electrical contact cleaner and some electrical contact paste. A good clean with contact cleaner a smear of contact paste normally fixes things. Early X5's suffered with rear light issues (water ingress) BMW's fix was change the whole unit mine was as described plus a thin smear of silicone to seal the lamp unit. Dave

Or upgrade to a 3.0i engine basically the same block 255hp just make sure you get the ECU with the engine. If you get a copy of PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 you can register it to the chassis and the other units Dave

Morning Simon Good find with the coupling fingers crossed the Eibach springs give the look you want. Remember once fitted get a 4 wheel alignment done it will save tyre wear in the long run. Check out the M-sport catalogue I am not aware of any body kits that have been developed but then I like it looking "Factory" my mods are under neath engine, brakes suspension. So I have 360 whp with brakes and steering to keep it in order, my wife's Outback has a full Perrin engine with 450 whp Dave

As your car is out of Warranty (unless you have an Extended Deal) talk to a BMW Specialist (there is a register of BMW Specialists just Google) they will (a) Be half the BMW cost (roughly) (b) will have all the tools and knowledge you need. There are also a plethora of Independent garages who are very capable of keeping your BMW on the road plus Fuel Saystem specialists out there. Also a heck of a lot of Trucks and Busses have refurbished injectors. BMW will have supply contracts with a small number of manufacturers a hiccup with one causes issues. The wider market doesn't have the same restrictions Dave

Hi Who on earth told you that 67k was about their life !! Just had a quick look at Euro Car Parts website here in the UK they are listing injectors for your engine from several suppliers Bosch Lucas etc so there doesn't seem to be a shortage here? As for mileage that they last, the injectors in my X5 (original) have covered 160k my Brother Inlaw runs 5 series touring and covers massive mileages on his 5th now all have covered 200+k he has only suffered 2 injector failures. You really are over thinking this Dave

Morning Chris It depends how you have diagnosed the intermittent problem ? By actually identifying the issue or by reading what others have suffered? Many Dealers will have a min charge/time for a diagnostic session, about 1/2 hr roughly. How ever the main workshop schedule will be sett for services etc so a diagnostic job will be slotted in as and when. If I were certain of the diagnosis I would fix it my self. However if your car is still under Warranty then pressure the Dealer to fix it and provide a loan car. Dave

Morning Dan When you scanned the car and got these faults a question or two? Do you have warnings up? Does the radio work? Does the Heating/Aircon work? My bet is they do. I would make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condition. Then connect your diagnostics, turn your ignition ON, "DO NOT START THE CAR" clear all faults. Ignition OFF. Then repeat do not start the car the current drop will cause all sorts of false fault codes due "low voltage" re-scan with a full battery. You may find you see a different result Good Luck

Morning Alexandra Welcome to the Forum Fuel injectors are rated by the volume of fuel they allow into the engine. So as long as your "replacement" injector is rated for your engine there is no reason that it shouldn't give goo service for a very long time. If you think about it from a different point of view if you had fitted a brand new injector you would be driving home with 1 new and 3 used ones !! and not worrying. If as you say the car is running fine then you will probably be still driving it this time next year, Go For It Dave

Yup they had the Lola's, GT 40's, Astons running wild Saturday Afternoon

G'day Les Welcome to the Forum Nice looking Car Bluetooth in this age of Beemer was not one of BMW's finest efforts I am afraid. The ULF modules are often available if it is that,or possibly the Bluetooth antenna it's self. Worth checking if the units memory is full there is a way of clearing the memory check your handbook as I think 4 phones registered is it's max. There are a few sound system upgrades check out Dynavin or Xtrons. Exhaust systems just research your local market and suppliers would be my advice as we are in the UK our recomendations probably won't help much. ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Bga Welcome to the Forum Something like Osram Nightbreaker bulbs may help or you could try LED replacements, our son did this on his Toyota Pickup they work well. Or you could source some HID headlamp units second hand Dave

Brilliant, met a lot of really "OLD" friends, I think I need a chiropractor after trying to jitterbug we both should know better at our age but sometimes ego overcomes common sense 🤣 High light for me was the Classic Touring car race really my era. Dave

Morning Jim I have actually had a BMW Dealer Service Manager try to tell me running a "Diagnostic Programme that was not "BMW Licenced" could damage my car" and BMW would be within their rights to cancel Warranty and refuse assistance !! 😁 Guess he never needed my custom anyway 🤣 I remember when onboard diagnostics began in the late 80's early 90's to many Manufacturers and Dealers/Specialists saw it as an opportunity to keep total control of their product. They also saw an opportunity to convince many car owners that under the bonnet there is a "box of Bats" and if you touch it yourself they will escape and your car will never go again 🤣 That education program has been so successful that there are thousands out there who don't know the bonnet actually opens and seem to think it's Dealer only access 🤣😂 It Grates with some of them that they are not the only one with a key to the "Bat Box" forgetting sometimes that they have a "Business" to run that survives on "Customers" and "Good Will" he will need you long before you need him. Remember the Fault Warning can often be a symptom not the cause so if you are showing an injector fault check the injector loom,plugs connectors and earth points as well as the injector its self. With the Bro Inlaw's car it was definitely running rough no clever diagnostics needed. Dave