Greydog

Morning Harold Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then browse the section you need to find the parts if they are available you should find a part number. With the part number search the Internet to see where the best cost/supply is I hope this Helps Dave

Oh no, that car is testing you Mate The box was working OK? What happened were you moving and lost drive? Or had you stopped and lost drive when you restarted? As long as the shifter mechanism is OK (worth checking) my guess would at a Mechatronic's unit failure of some kind, either a seal or a break in the loom or the unit it's self. Try unplugging the loom (without power it should be in Limp Mode) and re-connecting just in case? Fingers crossed for the simple fix Kenny Dave

Morning Geoffrey Welcome to the Forum TIS (BMW Technical Information System) recommends normally aspirated 100,000 mile interval Turbocharged engines 45,000 mile intervals So if everything is running well I would have annual Oil and filter changes on top of the BMW schedual Dave

Morning Rebeca Check www.realoem.com put your Vin into the search box then look for what you need I believe your car has 3 recommended wheel sizes 7J x 18 x ET22 7.5J x 19 x ET32 20" wheels are normally staggered (wider rear) Tyres 225x60R18 104H 245x50R19 105V or either 245x45R20 103V or 275x40R20 106V if staggered. If buying "non BMW" wheels make sure they meet recommended sizes and load ratings. If you have deep pockets BMW or check the online auction sites as second user sets come up fairly often, if second user make sure the wheels are in good condition and not cracked. Good luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Aaron I think you need a BMW specific Scan done someone with Autologic, Foxwell, or best ISTA/INPA so the individual control units can be interrogated. The Parking Brake issue could be the Parking Brake unit or it could be related to an ABS fault from what I have read. I repaired the Hand brake unit on a friends Range Rover Sport on that the RR Dealer wanted mega bucks to fit a new unit and set it up?? We removed it and found it was jammed with mud/crud and stuff the activation gear was stripped we cleaned everything, the main gear was stripped. He found a new main gear online I fitted it greased everything with a spray grease (Motor Cycle Chain Lube) and sealed it up. The interesting thing is the TRW fault that shows I believe is related to the airbag ecu's if it is if the car thinks you have crashed and triggered an air bag it makes an Emergency call. If you haven't got access at workI would check the register of BMW Specialists and find one in your area, they should be able to carry out a full diagnostic check and give you a print out. Then you can make some decisions for what it is worth I don't think it will need coding. Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum The only time I have known an "Eggy" smell is from a new Cat ? has your car had a new one fitted ? If not you need to find the source Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum That is a big job, I don't know what facilities you have but I certainly wouldn't consider it a kerbside/driveway job. Take a look at www.reaoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, first check which engine you have M57 or N57 Not done the job but I believe the M57 engine the chain is at the front so it is possible with the engine in the car N57 the chain is at the rear so engine out as I understand it. Dont for get the lower chain and all guides if your in there. Dave

Morning Rod Welcome to the Forum My first try would be a Head cleaner see it is just dust and dirt. If that doesn't work then if you can't take it out and repair it yourself then some specialist help is needed. Dave

Thanks Marcus A lesson in there for all of us take care and I hope you get your Vanos rebuilt or rebuild it yourself successfully Dave

Found this How do I disconnect my BMW Connected Drive? How to disconnect My BMW app on iPhone? To delete your vehicle from My BMW Connected account in My BMW remote app, go to the app's menu and enter the 'Vehicle' tab. There you can choose the car to be deleted from the account, so confirm 'Delete' and you're done.16 Mar 2021 Don't Know if this makes sense to you Dave

Then I would Google "coding out Connected drive " I bet your not the only one who has an issue. As for the Sat Nav updates my X5 still thinks one of our sons lives in a field 🤣 Dave

Morning Clive On my seats the bolsters inflate but then my old bus is 7 years older 😂 Check the internet see if there is anything there that others have suffered and found a fix for? Pelican Parts have some good "how too's" maybe some help there If not it looks like your going to become our seat expert in a short while 🤣 Dave

Morning Aaron Everyday is a school day 😁 Never come across this before so time for some home schooling It appears that there is no physical sim card instead there is a soft sim (software based) so you can't just remove the sim. I am assuming all other functions are operating normally? Do you have access to a BMW Diagnostic suite ? Something like iCarsoft or Foxwell or maybe ISTA/INPA a scan may give a better clue as to where the issue is. I have a feeling that your combox is at fault I would talk to guys like Cartronix, ECU Testing and BBA Reman if they can test and repair it may save a lot of issues. Swapping for another Combox may need re-coding which will require either the software or the help of a BMW Specialist Just a thought here, your phone connects by bluetooth so logically if the cars antenna were disconnected it should stop the combox calling (no aerial) while your mobile would use it's internal antenna so would still work. Not a fix but may be a short term work around Dave

Hi Aaron Do you use www.realoem.com ? I would first use a BMW Vin decoder plenty online so you can call up your cars build sheet Then use realoem use the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the communications section Just remembered your Vin is above so took a look, it seems your model was available with a range of types 1. COMBOX Media Part No 84109257150 S644A Yes S6FLA Yes S6VCA Yes 2.COMBOX for Telematics Part No 84109257151 S606A Yes S609A Yes S633A Yes S6VCA Yes COMBOX Telematics for GPS Part No 84109257152 S633A Yes S6VCA Tes There are also versions of ULF and Telematic units so in my quick look it seems the removable battery is in the Telematics control unit. I am Using the Decoder it appears you have S609 Nav with S633 Telephone so the Part No on the Comboz should be as 2 above not sure about the Optical link I will dig a little Dave

That sounds great Andy at least you will have a clear picture of what is going on. Fingers crossed the O2 sensor will be the fix, I am told that the Temp sensors rarely go wrong (that is tempting the Gods) When you get your software set up on your first scan you are likely to see what appear to be loads of issues. Clear all faults then rescan. Dave

Morning Clive Sorry didn't pick up the Non Start issue have you traced it? Is the car going to sleep (shutting down completely) ? The seat issue there are 3 motors in the seat base and depending on the seat type two or three in the backrest. When I had an issue with the seat control it was quicker and cheaper to just change it out for a replacement from a BMW recycler. Make sure you check the seat loom in case there is a short somewhere. Remember www.realoem.com should help with where stuff fits Dave

Morning Clive You do know BMW stands for Breaks My Wallet 🤣 If you can hear it running but no movement it could be the pump for the side bolsters or lumber adjustment. I would sit in quick while it is running you should feel any movement in them. If so it could be the switch stuck or failing Dave

Thanks Aaron

Hi Andy A faulty exhaust gas temperature sensor can negatively affect a vehicle’s after-treatment system, resulting in the following symptoms: Check engine light: if the ECU detects a problem with the sensor or signal, it will trigger the check engine light to come on. Reduced fuel efficiency: if the sensor relays incorrect voltages, the DPF regeneration process can take longer, resulting in increased fuel usage. Unnecessary DPF regeneration: faulty sensors can also lead to unnecessary regenerations, causing inconvenience to the vehicle owner. Failed emissions test: a false reading can cause the EGR system to malfunction, without triggering the check engine light. This can result in an emissions test fail. Component failure: increases in exhaust temperatures can also contribute to the premature failure of other exhaust or internal engine components. These sensors are not cheap (around £150 each) so if you can't test them yourself get the help of an Auto Electrician or Garage the O2 sensor would be about the same cost. Dave

I believe the Telematic/Combox is coded to your chassis so fingers crossed there is no fault or issue with the unit it's self. Looks like you have access to the right software. The battery could well be at fault after 10 years so worth getting it checked/changed if you can't DIY. Looking at your original scan it has a code for E call triggered plus Ecall assist not available ? May be unplugging the unit changing the battery then reconnecting may reset it ? If not more digging Good luck Dave

Morning Aaron All those codes are to do with the Telematics unit. I did read some time ago about a battery change not being done correctly and not registered triggering Connected drive faults. But for the life of me I cant remember exactly what now. You could try the old Dealer trick of Disconnecting the Battery for 15mins (remove the Neg lead) Just make sure the car is shut down first so open the boot remove the key and leave it the Gearshift light will go out after about 10mins the car is then shut down. Dealers use this as a kind of reset. You could also unplug the Telematic unit and get it checked or replace it. Dave

Hi Aaron Then its a Connected drive issue Connected Drive has it's own Sim Card. Did you renew your Connected Drive subscription ? If so BMW should sort it for you, if not then you may have to dig into the Idrive menu's to turn it off Dave

Hi Andy I would investigate the low rail pressure could be as simple as a fuel filter that's never been changed (yep when I changed mine it still had the manufacturing date on it and should have been changed twice before I got to it !! Coding out the EML will be an automatic MOT failure as the EGR is cycling my bet is the O2 sensor is on the way out Dave

Hi Aaron Welcome to the Forum Is it in BMW Connected drive ? Or is your regular Bluetooth ? My guess is something in Connected Drive check your handbook and the Connected Drive settings on Idrive Dave

Afternoon Andy Lets see now, Air mass per cylinder 516.73 Seems OK ambient pressure 1004.31 mbar This will change with weather (High/Low Pressure) and altitude Boost pressure actual value 1033.85 I take it this is at tick over ? Coolant temperature 81.24 Should be between 80 and 90 degC Duty cycle boost plate 94.52% Looks OK Duty cycle of exhaust gas recirculation 86.65% Shows your EGR is cycling Engine speed689.56 1/min Tick over/Idling speed should rise if AC is on Injection quantity 5.91 mg/Hub Not sure if this is right as Injector condition/fuel rail pressure will have an effect on the Atomization and Volume of fuel Pedal value generator 0.00% Throttle closed Rail Pressure Is 267.82bar This seems on the low side TIS says it should be around 448 bar Remember I don't have a diesel, but I would say it starts and runs OK with a smooth tick over. with low fuel pressure performance will be down though Hope this is a help Dave