Greydog

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Absolute beast of a car one of my neighbours works for BMW UK and had one as one of his company cars (he changes 2 or 3 times a year) if I were going to spend my pension it would be on the 550i xdrive touring then you know it will grip and go in all but the most extreme conditions. I have had AMG;s and when it's snowy or icy had to tip toe around even with winter tyres. My old 4.6is just goes were I need it to when I want it to one of the reasons it became my daily drive and the last AMG was sold. Enjoy Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Hope your Christmas has been a good one and 2021 is peaceful and Prosperous First "S" drive is Front wheel drive (if you are't aware) and Xdrive is all wheel drive, Engine wise most EU cars will be Diesel though petrol engines are available. Were it my money it has been a tough year for all business's and the motor trade is no exception so I would set my targets first, say X drive 25d or 25e (I always go for the biggest engine as it wont have to work quite as hard) set my budget and start the hunt. I would be looking at BMW Dealers to ensure that a BMW AUC Warranty is included, then let the negotiations begin If the car has the build spec I want tyres are new or almost new (don't want to be buying tyres a month or two after getting it) I would be pressing for a service deal and an extended warranty 3 years at least. My main push would be for Service deals and Warranty remember salesmen get commission on these items too so no mercy. Be strong and prepared to walk away crazy fact our homes and our cars are the biggest purchases we make but both tend to be brought with our heart not our heads. More cars are brought on colour trim and gadgets than what it is actually needed for. Get the security of an AUC Warranty around you get a Service contract in place and pay for interim oil changes just as added protection would be my way forward and enjoy your Beemer Good luck with the hunt Dave

Happy Christmas Larry If the shop welded any thing without disconnecting the battery it is more than possible that they fried something. Stu is on the money I think with the fuel pump and relay also simple things first fuel pump fuses need checking if you haven't done it. If your tracking down parts for either car use (if your not already) www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box it will bring up the model, then look for what you need, even second hand parts are easier to fit if they are right. If you double click the part number you will get a list of what other models the part was used on. Also www.pelicanparts.com have some great "How to's" with pictures. Dave

Hi Daran Welcome to the Forum From what I have learned it will likely be a fault on the Most Bus, one of the units or it's most bus link is blocking the signal. You can by a Most Bus Optical test loop then starting in the boot unplug the units one at a time, when you pull the Most Plug you should see a flashing light. If there is no flash the unit or units before it in the chain are blocking the signal. Move back until you find the flashing light plug in the test loop if everything now works you have your problem unit. Digital Radio units and TCU are likely culprits. First check one of the online Vin Decoders to see what was fitted at build. Then check www.realoem.com to see where stuff is fitted makes checking easier. That will make sure you don't get bored over Christmas 🤣 Dave Oh and Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year

2020 has without doubt been an incredibly tough year for many people old and young. So here are my best wishes to everyone for the Festive Season it will be different but we will come through it. Stay healthy, stay happy, try and keep a sense of humour, look out for loved ones neighbours and friends. Best Wishes to you all for a Merry Christmas and a Peaceful and Prosperous 2021 Dave

Morning Lorraine The N47 4 cylinder Diesel engine was in production and use by BMW from March 2007 up till September 2014. I have no personal experience of owning a vehicle with this engine but have helped a friend of our sons with an engine change in his 120d, he brought a second hand unit from a specialist BMW breaker. As an Engineer I just had to look inside once the scrap engine was on the floor, my assessment is first the tensioner begins to fail allowing slap and accelerated wear of guides and chain. Sadly due to the design of the engine the drive sprocket on the crank also seems to wear but "usefully" is welded to the crankshaft!!! So to repair these it would in my opinion also need a new crank to do it properly. Not the engine designers finest effort or BMW's who it seems initially just put their heads in the sand and ignored the issue, it seems they took a view that number of failures against number of units sold meant the issue was a customer one not theirs?? The difficulty is some engines have reached astronomical mileages without issue while others have failed early with full service history's. As Richard says walk away or look at a petrol model, if a Diesel is your preference make sure you have evidence of a good history and a solid either BMW AUC Warranty (I would make an extended AUC warranty part of the deal) or good aftermarket Warranty just in case. Dave

Morning Forrest Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look in the lighting section it will show what was fitted as standard. Does it have an LED lamp fitted ? f you have LED one side and Halogen the other it would work but light level would be different and may trigger bulb warnings. Just had a quick look it seems you should have P2 12v/21w lamps fitted Hope it helps Dave

Morning Dan Take a look at www.realoem.com there are small exploded drawings which will help with what it is and where it goes. Google may also help with how too's, the advice I can give having been stuck when brittle with age plastic clips have broken is get spares before you start they are pence and new clips are always easier to fit. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ray Not sure what rim sizes are fitted to the 1 series BMW have always favoured a staggered set up (wider rears) to give improved traction in the rear drive cars. Check the rim sizes it will be cast into the rear of one of the spokes if you have the BMW favoured set up then it is probably 7 1/2j x 18 front and 8 j or possibly 8 1/2 j x 18 rear. If you fit the same tyre front and rear front and rear with staggered rims you will have odd rolling radius front and rear, that could give odd handling. I don't see an issue with getting either a pair of front wheels or rear wheels and running the same tyre front and rear that way you maintain the rolling radius. On my x5 I have 275/40 R 20 W (F); 315/35 R 20 W summer and winter wheel tyre combination is 255 x 55 x 18 all round same rolling radius as the summer set up. Dave

Morning Phil I did read on another forum about fitting and Android touch screen system that looks OEM and retains the original radio. It was a plug and play installation, I would do some searches and see what you can find. Dave

Morning Dominique Welcome to the Forum Check the TCU Bluetooth unit or get it checked. You should be able to find a BMW Specialist near you (I take it your in the USA) they will be more sensibly priced and have all the knowledge/tools. Check www.pelicanparts.com talk to them if they are far away good website with lots of help. Dave

Morning Linfsey I think updating your maps will depend on which system is in your car some have a Disc update others have a USB system. Is your car E83LCI or F25 ? If you are driving the E83 LCI you will need the Updated map DVD 2018 or 2019 I would think are the latest so simple to upgrade. If you have the F25 model you will need a FSC code from BMW to upgrade the maps so it may be simpler (though more costly) to get them to do it for you, plus if anything goes wonky it's their issue not yours Dave

Morning First you will need the location of all the units connected to the bus www.realoem.com will help. I may be teaching Granny a bit but a Fibre Optic bus is in simple terms a ring main the signal travels in one direction around it so if a unit is down/incompatible the signal stops there, The signal generally will start at a Bus Gateway and travel through each unit and on to the next until it is received back at the Gateway. When you unplug the Fibre optic connector you should see a flashing light indicating the signal is there, some units have a test lamp which flashes when the fibre optic is plugged in some don't so unplugging the next unit in line will reveal either a flashing light. If no light suspect the previous unit. There are bypass/test plugs available so if you find a dead unit plug in the bypass and check the next inline. Laborious but basically simple to do. Several manufacturers use optical systems these days so there are bound to be "How Too's" on You Tube or similar, Google is your friend The key fob could be as simple as the keys need pairing to the car or the antenna is faulty. Dave

Hi Barry You are very welcome what is a Forum that can't share stuff The Range Rover was an er "experience" P38 in the end I wasn't sure who had it longer me or the Dealer ?? Just talked to my BMW Indi he said the early SMG boxes had a detent spring that broke quite often it causes slow changes between gears. He said it is a changeable item without taking the box out. Have a Great Christmas Dave

Hi Walter Welcome to the Forum You should find it in the front behind/above the fuses. R1 in the picture

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I can understand a product helping a rubber seal that has hardened, but if the actual guides are worn I am still a skeptic. From what you write you have had a brilliant result Whoop Whoop enjoy your 650 Dave

Morning Barry Welcome to the Forum Have you tried www.mdecoder.com always worked for me. I do know there is an SMG hydraulic control unit on the side of the Gearbox I would start there, check for leaks etc. If you aren't aware have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will call up your model. There are small exploded drawings that will help identify where stuff is fitted. You could also try www.pelicamparts.com an American site so the steering is on the wrong side but they have loads of excellent "how too's" with pictures. If you need professional help avoid BMW they will just say "change the box $xxxxxxx thank you very much" A BMW Independent would be better Hope this helps Dave

Morning Laurynas Welcome to the Forum If there was no CCC when you brought the car do you know why? Had the previous owner had an issue and changed it to an aftermarket unit? If he did is the loom complete? Is the Most Bus OK? Are the other units there ? You will definitely need to code the unit to your chassis, did your car have the business system or professional system (not sure that parts are interchangable). I did read a few years back that there are coolant hoses for the CCC if there is a leak the result is a dead CCC. I would try one of the Vin Decoder sites to check your cars build sheet so you are confident about what was fitted Good Luck Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum A little more information may help us help diagnose the clunk. Is it constant a "rattle" does it only happen in certain circumstances like up and down kerbs or speed humps. Is there vibration when slowing down? The normal suspects are the Brake reaction arm (or can be called the Tension arm) and its bush Clonk slowing plus vibration, Anti Roll Bar bushes and links are a good source of clonks going over rough surfaces or up and down kerbs. Top mounts can go but are much rarer. As for repair a reasonable Home Mechanic with a decent tool kit can change the front suspension, or of course you can use a competent Garage but cost will be higher. As an example a couple of years back I changed all arms and bushes front and rear over 2 weekends with a Kit brought from Ebay £250 ish if my old brain recalls. The difference was night and day, suspension bushes have a life (60 to 80k) and deteriorate with age (bit like me) just remember to get a 4 wheel alignment done after doing the work to avoid any odd tyre wear. Good luck Dave

Hi Dan No it will bring up the model and all parts that were available not the specific build sheet. Dave

Laborious but would work and help isolate the circuit causing feed back. I would start with the audio circuits Dave

Hi Dan Check out www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. The site is a BMW online parts list so you will be able to see what parts are needed and also make sure your buying the right parts. Dave

Morning George Whether you buy online (Ebay or similar) or at an Auction (by attending and bidding) or by a private sale you are very much buying "sold as seen" and have little protection in law, so BUYER BEWARE. Yes at auction you can get cars at "Trade" prices that is how car traders like all retailers make their money. Internet sites give wide coverage but make sure you know where the car is and the costs of delivery/collection are factored in. Not very cheap buying a car online in Aberdeen if you live in Margate !! If however you buy from a "Trader" registered or not (there are many selling from the kerbside pretending to be selling from home) you will have some protection under the Sale of Goods Act. Where ever you buy from do your homework use the internet not just to search but to research the car your buying what issues to look for, what average cost of repair, servicing costs, tyres, insurance road tax band. If you aren't mechanically adept find someone who is to go with you. Don't buy with your heart a "cool looking car" can be a money pit buy with your head. Hope that helps Dave

Morning Nick One of my sons has a friend with a 1 series he gave me the web address, just digging back here you go https://bmwtuning.co/build-500hp-n54-bmw-135i-335i/ I had to let him down lightly and explain he doesn't have an N54 engine. Good Luck Dave

Is it 1 speaker ? or both front speakers ? Dave