Greydog

Hi Lauren Yes you will need the interface and cable to connect to your car I brought the Disc and Interface with cable as a complete set quite a few years back but they are still available online. Google, Amazon Ebay normally from Taiwan (mine was) prices vary from £10 to £25 (the dearer ones often have postage included) Simple to load from the disc, then plug the interface into the usb port (doesn't need to be connected to the car) and load the drivers all the instructions are there. Then plug it into the OBD port and off you go. I have even tried mine with a bluetooth adapter but the older tech in the car wouldn't play ball When connected the program will first identify your car if all correct press continue and the scan page will show, just hit scan and it will check every control unit in the car (up to 3 pages) and show the number of faults, double click the fault and the explanation of what is causing the issue will show. My last scan showed a PDC fault when interrogated the explanation was Rear Centre Right sensor failed. Dave

Morning Brad First for a Private Hire vehicle 77k in 5 years seems low to me, not much above average. I would check its MOT history the mileage should be registered. Then it is History History History and making sure everything works as it should plus all the tyres are in good order. Remember it has been someone's livelihood so hopefully it has been kept in tip top order. A NI plate shouldn't have a detrimental effect on price but Private Hire may well As with any second user car purchase all we can do is take as much care as possible before parting with our hard earned Good Luck Dave

Morning Terry Welcome to the Forum Wow that made a mess, I have seen similar damage on a 2.0d Peugeot engine (friend of our sons) a piece of glow plug broke off when he changed them, He said he didn't notice? I think the broken bit got wedged in the exhaust vale the result looked similar to yours. If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com It is an online BMW Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the section you need. Once you have the section up double click the part number you want and you will get a list showing alternate part numbers and models it was used in. You look like you know what your about with a spanner just make sure new head bolts are used. I would also check water pump and change the timing chain and guides as your that far in. Good job so far Dave

Morning Stevie Welcome to the Forum Tasty Car congratulations First stop your local BMW Dealer Parts Department they can read your Vin into the system and should be able to order up a new one ( I have two one in the car one in the garage just in case) Dave

Hi Stu Check the starter motor carefully the earlier E53 were fitted with Magneti Marrelli starter when they start to fail they draw huge amps killing batteries in no time. I have seen reports of 600+amp draw, put a clamp ammeter on the starter and check also check the relays (30g I think see if its warm) crank sensors are another known issue Mine was slow turning over so changed to Bosch as a precaution Dave

Morning Lauren Welcome to the Forum The ABS controller would be my educated guess here in the UK there are several specialist repair companies a couple offering 48hr turn around. Google should help you find someone near you. A scan would definitely confirm it, either INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 will allow dealer level diagnostics for you E46 there are many others iCarsoft Carly for BMW (subscription) My personal choice would be BMW 1.4.0 cheap as chips to buy online loaded mine on an old laptop it will allow fault code reading and gives the code plus a description in plain English next would be INPA this is a real dealer level program with technical drawings and descriptions but can be fiddly to get going. A good code reader/diagnostic program will cost less than 1 session at a Dealer. There is an online BMW parts list that will help if buying spares (new or second hand) www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need. Good Luck and Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Niki Not trying to "teach Granny" but assuming the Battery has been checked and is in good condition and also assuming the alternator fitted was the correct one for the car, you could have a parasitic drain killing the battery overnight. I would fully charge the battery either by a good run or with a charger disconnect the battery from the car leave it 12 hours and check it if it is still fully charged. If it holds a charge off the car then the issue is with one of the systems on the car Dave

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum If I recall the condensate should drain a the back of the gearbox under the car I did read about issues with a hidden drain under the Ebox that can only be checked from the passenger wheel arch behind the liner Try looking at www.realoem.com it is an Online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the sections for what you want. There are small exploded drawings that may help. Good Luck Dave

Well G'day George Welcome to the Forum What engine are you considering there were some well documented timing chain issues with the earlier N47 diesel engines around 2014 they were upgraded not sure of the date Petrol engines seemed OK Apart from that the normal checks apply History History History, here in the UK after 3 years there is the annual MOT test which we can also check online showing if any work was required to pass and what was done (or not) also shows "advisories" so you can see what is coming. All accessories should work (test everything) Gearbox should be smooth and quiet again depending on miles should be serviced, as with all 4x4 tyres should match and be correct sizes all round, mismatched or odd tyres can wreak havoc on the transfer case. Hope I haven't put you off Dave

Hi Pamela Dont do Facebook so cant hear it but I have heard a few with X pipes fitted, wakes a few folk up if you make an early start. Dave

Hi Silenthill Welcome to the Forum With good maintenance and servicing very, the BMW straight six is one of the worlds great engines. So all the normal used car checks need to be made plus make sure every gadget works as it should. Drive train checks apply to all 4x4 systems at 80k it will be due a service, if it hasn't had it use it as a negotiating point. Make sure all tyres are the same and correct for the car, also make sure they have plenty of tread (you don't want to be spending out to soon) All all wheel drive systems need matched tyres front and rear to avoid transmission wind up and possible damage. Driving everything should be silky smooth and quiet. ENJOY Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum What does your Handbook say ? Dave

Hi Guys I stand corrected just checked the oracle active flaps were fitted For vehicles with CO2 package and Active steering and Increased towing capability and Towing hitch, detachable and Chassis & suspens. setup"Adaptive Drive" and Active cruise control+Stop&Go function and Cold-climate version S1CBA=Yes S217A=No S233A=No S235A=No S2VAA=No S5DFA=No S842A=No There was also a Hot Climate version Every day is a school day Dave

Hi T-con Aldis IIRC active radiator flaps were an Extreme Climate fitting (could be wrong so I will claim OLD BLOKE amnesia) when they were fitted they were a PITA they either failed open so often not noticed or closed in which case the fans running sounded like you were about to go for take off. I have also seen vacuum operated rad blinds in Canada They were vacuum operated from a solenoid tucked away under the manifold and linked to the thermostats not sure on the diesel but if memory serves you have 3 on your car Main Thermostat, lower rad thermostat and the EGR thermostat. If the vacuum operated flaps are fitted a failed vacuum actuator, cracked split vacuum pipe, failed sticking solenoid or a failure of any of the thermostats will cause a problem Just didn't realise they were fitted to UK spec cars, lucky you Aldis as said they could be a real PITA

2 mins while it recharges just enough time to jump out and drag the body with the startled expression into the bushes out of the way 😲 Brilliant we need video

What current is the compressor drawing (the X5's suspension compressor has a 30a main fuse and a 7.5a control fuse) at 20 or 30a I would certainly look at putting a relay in line controlled by the switch Don't sound it without a warning to your passengers 😂 you could have a cardiac arrest on your hands 🤣

Hi Florian Welcome to the Forum That is noisy sounds like a diesel ?? The cause could be leaky injector seals, noisy lifters, a leaking manifold a whole raft of stuff. How many miles has it covered? What is the service history ? What oil is it running is the oil level correct? Dave

Morning Where are you going to mount the compressor up front under the bonnet or in the back? Where ever it is I think I would take a feed with an appropriate in-line fuse direct from the battery (in the boot or the jumpstart point under the bonnet) through a 30/40amp relay to the compressor. I would switch the relay from an ignition controlled source such as the radio in the boot or heater fans upfront. I know what you mean about the "meandering masses" we keep the horses at a yard that is accessed by a 3/4 mile "Private" single track road. Since the first lock down and because it is paved the meanderers with there dogs and children have adopted it as they can wander up and down and not get their white trainers dirty !! Explaining that the road is "Private" and not a public right of way can earn you some serious abuse and often the men are as bad ??🤣 One group of mountain bikers have broken down a fence to access a local forest where they have dug jumps and rams. I have repaired the fence several times but they somehow think they have a right to do what they like one of the girls at the yard challenged them and was told **** Off we aren't doing any harm !! Maybe a minor heart attack when the Gatwick Express sneaks up on them would work and be damn funny to watch Dave

Hi Tony That's different !! a Train Horn !! I thought the rear sockets were live until the car goes to sleep You could take a switched feed from the rear fuse box to control a relay as the main power source for your BEEE BAHHH horn God thats going to be loud Dave

Hi Hubss Welcome to the Forum Not sure which Brembo calliper but you could take a look at www.realoem.com I know the BMW Msport 135M used 340mm discs up front and the Msport Callipers are 4 pot Remember if you upgrade the calliper you will need more clearance with the wheel 18" would probably be smallest and the offset would need to clear the calliper' I would look at realoem get the part numbers for the Msport stuff then use Google to see if you can get them at a good price. A friend of one of our sons has a 120d 2006 he managed to find a full set Front and Rear discs, callipers (in Blue) and pads for a sensible £800. The big plus was being Msport parts they all fitted without pain, he was already on 19" wheels. Dave Forgot to say when you look at realoem for the part numbers if you double click the partnumber it will call up a list of alternates and the models they are used on

Morning Jack Ooops I would definitely back track over everything you have done plus check the fuses. Just hope your short circuit hasn't damaged sensors or the control module First disconnect the wind deflector (you know the connections now) If the hood works then you will know for certain that it isn't a disturbed or damaged sensor. Then reconnect the wind deflector if it all works time for a beer and a pat on the back. If not then time to get out the tester and the diagnostic scanner if the crossed wires triggered a fault in the control module it may need the fault clearing and resetting before anything works. Dave

Hi Aldis Welcome to the Forum I was under the impression that the flaps in the radiator shrouds around the Auxiliary Fan (Front) and Engine or Electric fan (Engine bay) are just hinged and open with air flow when the car is moving. If you have Auxiliary heating there should be another small rad in the Wheel arch. Dave

Morning Kenny Glad it helps There used to be a BMW TIS site available that ran alongside realoem which was a massive help to guys like us. Both sites are USA based (due to the access/competition laws I believe) but BMW found away to pull the TIS site and make it subscription only!! Hope things go smoother now Dave

Hi Phil 57/58 MPG 😲 your asking a man with a V8 if that's good !! How about 18 mpg but Oh what a glorious sound 😂 I would say your doing OK if you were on a motorway journey it would be about 10% higher I would guess Dave

Morning Kenny No I had missed the cut wire I was searching for part numbers 😕 My neighbour sent me the attached PDF which is direct from the dealer work shop manual so get another beer and your reading glasses ready 🤣BMW Wiring Lights E60.pdf This is the Dealer workshop instructions for upgrading Pre-LCI to LCI lights. as you will expect it has many warnings (in case numpty's like us get our hands on them) A quick look at the wiring diagram shows the White with Black trace wire attached it also appears left side is White Black trace (WS/SW) and Right should be White Red trace (WS/RT). Who tried the upgrade initially came from the Jeremy Clarkson mechanics school "I mean how hard can it be" ?? If all the basics make sense and meet up with these pages getting the car to recognise the upgrade should be straight forward Hope this helps Dave