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Everything posted by Greydog
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Morning Shady Sorry off the top my head not a clue, I do believe that the OEM supplier is Harmon Kardon maybe a search of their catalogue may help Dave Oh and Welcome to the Forum
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I have one of those always there with a supportive word "like" you should have a Subaru like mine !! Wonder who maintains that then ? 🤣
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That s only 68db when parked Tony 🤣
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Brilliant 🤣 🤣 🤣
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Morning Paul A job I have done earlier this year on my X5, I have also replaced them on 2 1 series and a 5 series. BMW will tell you the only fix is a new LCM that can only be coded by them, so will some specialists Happy to report they are all wrong, you can fit a second hand LCM and code it to your car using BMW PA Soft 1.4.0 or if you dont fancy trying yourself a member with PA Soft would help I am sure. I have a How to already written up. Check realoem for the correct part number for your car (mine was LCM III I upgraded to LCM IV more functions) Once you know what is in there either by pulling it out or using realoem Google search a replacement. My LCM IV came from Quarry Motors cost £90 delivered in 3 days fitted and programmed in under an hour. If you don't program it straight away everything will work but there will be a tamper dot by your mileage. Don't panic because as soon as it is programmed it will disappear. Dave
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Hi Stu I didn't change the ignition barrel just the door lock DME an EWS fiddly not difficult I would term it. The help of a dwarf with 9" long double jointed fingers that can hold like mole grips would be good if you find one lock it in a cupboard in case I need to borrow it 🤣 I was wondering if you could reprogram the Vin number in your existing EWS? may be cheaper (your not buying new I hope) Tip. Remember if buying a spare key take the key your getting with the lock set into the Dealer they can read the key to order if you give them the car vin it wont work Dave
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Hi Jon The actuator will be fine normally, the issue is water gets onto the the actuator arm that is attached to the rising arm that the signal pin is attached to rust builds up and they stick button rises and falls but actuator arm sticks. As the passenger door gets little use compared to the drivers door it suffers, rear doors the mechanism is at an angle so fairs better. Loads of lube is the way to go, I used Stormsure Tape (the wife buys it to mend her horse rugs) to repair my membrane as its water proof Every days a school day as the old saying goes. 🤣 well it is if you have an X5 Dave
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Hi Gary Welcome to the Forum That's a new one Certainly low miles it would have to have lived in City centre to average, what seems to be 16mph but possible Your cars mileage is recorded in 2 places (1) the IKE Binnacle (2) in the LCM/FCM if there is more than a very few difference there will be a tamper dot where the mileage is shown. You could also check the MOT history (there should be 1 at least) which will show the mileage at it's first MOT and maybe it's second they can't be altered. I am not sure if your snap on gives you access to individual modules so you may need some friendly soul with INPA/ISTA Carly for BMW, PA Soft or similar Good Luck Dave
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Hi Lewis Welcome to the Forum You mean the thingamajig that connects to the whatsit 😃 sorry couldn't help myself Try www.realoem.com it is a BMW online Parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number in the search box it will bring up your model Then search the sections for what you need there are little exploded drawings that will help, plus part numbers and description for ordering Note the prices shown are in US$ and are not UK fixed Dave
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Morning Graham Try talking to your local BMW Dealer many give discounts on parts for older models like ours. Is yours missing ? they can be repaired with gaffer tape or if you have horses as we do Stormsure waterproof tape (rug repairs) is brilliant. Most of the time it is the adhesive seal around the edges of the membrane which needs softening and spreading where the gaps are Dave
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Hi Don First is your car x-drive if it is matching rolling radius front to rear is important to avoid transmission wind up. Changing aspect ratio on your wheels as fitted could also cause your car to throw a hissy fit, in the stability control Traction control department. My brother inlaw has several run 5 series over the years all on 19" wheels he wears the standard fit run flats down and changes to Yoko non run flat he swears they are a better ride? My X5 is on 20" non run flat summer and 18" winters the winters are a quieter ride Dave
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That will be the membrane 😀
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Hi Graham The X5 has small slots in the rubber door seal Not sure about the X3 though? Taking the door card off is the only way to be sure where the water is coming from. Door card off go around the edge of the membrane with a talc puffer then hose the out side water will leave tell tale runs in the talc. It doesn't take much of a gap to let water in. Is it both rear footwells or just one? I did read about a damaged rear washer hose allowing water down the B pillar into the rear footwell but only one side. Dave
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Hi Don Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your GT Dave
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Morning Stu Are you sure about the Vin number in the picture above does it match the Vin plate ?? I ask because I just tried it in realoem and it brings up a 1981/94 E30 Touring ?? My 4.4 had a DME failure (pin corroded and broken off) and couldn't be repaired I had to get a replacement DME EWS Door Lock and Key from Quarry Motors all came from an identical car to mine fitting was straight forward, though a Faff Dave
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Morning Graham Problem 1. First check where the leak is coming in, if you have a Sun Roof check the seals and drains. Check the door and window seals are all good and not worn/damaged. Last remove the door cards on the rear doors and check the membranes if they are torn/damaged either repair or if possible replace them. Check the inside of the doors (use a heat gun or hairdryer to soften the membrane adhesive) check the drains in the door bottom. A talc puffer used around the seals and bottom of the door can help identify where its coming in. Problem 2. Thermostats are cheap I would change them as a matter of course. Most likely suspect engine stat check realoem for the correct part number. While your in there check the water pump and all hoses and change if required. Dave
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Hi Stu Talked with my local BMW Specialist (he comes to me for Dog Training) he said try this Close the doors. Put your Master Key in the door. turn it to the 1st position right, then 2nd position right, then 3rd position left. this will reset the starter immobilization sequence which is part of the anti theft system monitored by the EWS system. then put the key in the ignition and fire it up! Dave
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Just Inherited an (almost) perfect 2001 530i repair or sell?
Greydog replied to EllisoJo's topic in New Members Welcome
Jay Leno the American chat show host and Car Nut famously said " what would a wife prefer a husband who smells of transmission fluid or booze and cheap perfume" Glad you had successful outcome Dave -
Stu might sound daft but with the battery fully charged, turn the key to position (2) with out starting, let all the lights extinguish then start. I was told it helps all the modules to wake up and the Key to sync when I had the 4.4 Dave
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Hi Stu Cant get the Vid Silly thing have you tried moving the selector from park to neutral just in case it is the inhibitor switch? Pic1 above shows Odometer reading and Vin the Vin just doesn't look right, is it? If not it may need correcting though I have never seen one alter before. Your last picture very difficult to see Dave
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Just Inherited an (almost) perfect 2001 530i repair or sell?
Greydog replied to EllisoJo's topic in New Members Welcome
Hi John Welcome to the Forum For me it would be a simple choice, repair it but then I love tinkering. A Bonnet and wing in the right colour if your lucky should cost about £150 to £200 a pair of headlamps Xenon with Halo's about the same plus a weekends labour. Then service check over and MOT and it could fetch any where between £2500 and £4000 depending on the buyer Rather than just a general Breaker talk to the specialist BMW Dismantlers they may offer more Dave -
Wow way to go Kenny, well worth a call. Spoke to my youngest son he tells me these guys are well known in the "modding" circles and have a really good reputation. His friend still runs their suspension kit on a 1 series no issues after 6 years hard use (or abuse). Dave
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Hi Josh Welcome to the Forum Heard of them never seen them on a car though One of our sons friends has a 1 series he fitted a JOM Blueline kit from Euro Car Parts. I know because they used my garage and tools did all 4 corners all very straight forward and he was/is very happy with it still. He brought the kit as it was very competitive in price (cheapest) Dave
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😂 don't let him off, the wife was really nice to me for ages when she "broke" mine 😁 There are some great "How Too's" with pictures on the www.pelicanparts.com website it is an American site so steering wheel on the wrong side but all the bits that matter are where they are on our cars. There is also www.realoem.com if you aren't using it already, a BMW Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the sections for what you need, it will ensure if buying stuff (second hand or new) you get the right part, there are also useful exploded drawings so you can see where stuff fits. Dave
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Morning Jon Welcome to the Forum Not an unknown problem the internal mechanism can get rusted by water ingress and stick, (don't tell your colleague) It does mean removing the inner door card which is possible with the door closed. It is easier with the passenger seat unbolted and tipped back (if you unplug the seat connections make sure the battery is disconnected first) Once the door card is out of the way use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive holding the inner membrane and peel it back if you tear it make sure you tape it when it goes back. Awkward to see but inside the door you will see the mechanism with the Bowden cable attached get some lube in there WD40 or similar and with a long screwdriver or bent piece of metal work the mechanism it should operate and you can open the door making life easier. Keep operating the lock and lubricating until its working as it should then I smothered mine in spray grease to protect against water ingress rusting it again (tip don't close the door till your happy all is working as it should guess how I know that!!) Its a fiddly job not hard to do with basic tools the door air bag can be moved and supported with a bit of bent coat hanger without disconnection, if you disconnect the airbag with the battery connected you will trigger the SRS warning lamp needing the diagnostic program to reset it. Dave