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Emmo last won the day on April 6

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    3 Series 320d convertible
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  1. Further to the scenario Dave, I remember that the FTM tripped a good two minutes before the DBC and DSC fault came up on the dashboard. Driving today however, the whole situation had disappeared, no warnings, and I was able to activate the FTM. Speaking to a friend today who is also a BMW owner and quite knowledgable he said the DBC and DSC can be triggered when the small battery in the tyre valve is getting low and sometimes with the motion of the wheels this can right itself from time to time - what do you know about these batteries? My friend said they are to monitor the tyre pressures, I've never heard of them before and I can't say when I have new tyres fitted that the fitters have mentioned it either as I guess it's an excuse to charge more? My tyres by the way are conventional, not run flats. I intend anyway to get all the pressures and tracking checked on Monday as the steering wheel not being straight is a signal that something is out of true. Thanks, Martin
  2. Hi Dave Thanks for your quick response (as always, appreciated!). On your advice I will go and get the pressures checked and then the tracking to see if anything is untoward in that department, and then possibly a brake check to see if the callipers are free. I'll report back once I've done that. Thanks again, Martin.
  3. Got warnings on dashboard today whilst driving 'DBC, FTM & DSC malfunction' and told me to drive moderately, however I have not experienced any under-performance of the car at all and braking seems normal. I understand these to be Dynamic Brake Control, Flat Tyre Monitor and Dynamic Stability Control, and assume whatever is wrong with the car affects all these three things at the same time? I have noticed of late that my steering wheel is not straight (about 11 o'clock) although the car is, and think I can hear the beginnings of a wheel bearing on the way out. These things might not be related to the dash warnings, I don't know. I now cannot reset the tyre pressure on the dash either. Any help / ideas most appreciated. Thanks Martin
  4. Hi Stu Only just seen your reply, sorry! I have two kits, a 2 year old Ludwig Classic Maple all in Ahead Armor zipped bags, and a 3 year old DW all in Hardcase's. The Ludwig is easiest to put into my E36 as it's just a 20" BD and a 14" FT, but the DW is a challenge especially with a 22" deeper (18"?) BD and in a Hardcase too. Both kits' hardware sets are in two 28" Hardcase boxes, purchased especially to fit in the boot (maximum length that would fit) but saves the old back opposed to putting all the hardware in one case! I play in a 17 piece big band and use the Ludwig for that, and until last year I played in a Cliff Richard tribute theatre show which gave the DW an airing. The DW has it's own chrome snare but I use a 1976 vintage Ludwig Super Sensitive which is amazing - this replaced my 400 which was well pitted but had a good sound, the SS is immaculate and looks like new so goes well with the Classic Maple. I did a gig in London in 2019 on a hot summer's day and travelled all the way from Nottingham with the roof down and the drums in! If I can guarantee the weather I do as you say, just put the roof down and drop the kit in, then fill the boot once the roof is on again! Martin
  5. Hi Kevin I have owned my hard top convertible for just over 3 years now and still love it - normally I get fed up with cars after this time but not this one, however as a drummer I find it a bit limiting getting my kit in so I'm on the look out now for an X3! Plus points: Great in the hot weather with the roof down, but I would advise getting the rear wind deflector as they make all the difference, around £450 from BMW but I got a new one on Ebay for £100 (old stock from a dealer) so shop around - or wait until I get my X3! As others have said before me, the car is an absolute pleasure to drive, roof on or off. Negative points: Low profile tyres, have been a nightmare for me and I have damaged alloys and replaced tyres like there's no tomorrow on occasion - there's about an inch of rubber between the rim and the tarmac so avoid potholes like the plague! I have given up now on putting decent tyres on my car and the last one was a budget for £65. Run flats - get rid, and get a 'get you home' spare wheel, but be aware that it will take up some of the extremely limited boot space. Again, stupid money brand new, so I got one off Ebay for about £50. Boot space - small, and even smaller with the roof down and with the spare wheel virtually zero capacity. Rear seats - Unless you are putting small kids on the rear seats, forget they are there, however, handy for putting suitcases on especially when the rear seat rest hinges down to create a flat surface. And lastly, be aware you will probably have some rattles somewhere which is due to all the mechanisms for the roof. If you play golf like me, unless you get the model with the centre 'ski' hole in the back seat rest, your clubs with have to go on the front seat next to you. Other than that, enjoy! Martin
  6. Hi Dave Any idea as to what my problem might be once I get the door card off? Is there any way of checking if the window bolts are loose before taking it off? Martin
  7. Every time I go over a bump, something inside the drivers side door clunks, obviously something loose in there. Anyone had similar experience and found out what it is? I think it might be something to do with the window mechanism - YouTube videos suggest some bolts that need tightening under the door card, which I am led to believe is an easy removal? Any help as usual is greatly appreciated. Martin
  8. I have a 3 series M Sport 320D hardtop convertible. I love the car but it's got issues now where it's becoming impractical with regards not having a big enough back seat, getting in and out due to it being low, getting my drum kit in it and getting fed up when I go over the slightest bump in the road knackering the tyre and sometime the wheel as well - there's about an inch between the rim and the deck. I've stopped putting expensive tyres on it now. I am thinking of changing to an X3 (with normal tyres). My 3 series is a 2013 and trade in I have been offered figures from £7k to £9.5k, but to buy an X3 of the same age and mileage will cost me an additional circa £8k. Can someone tell me if the X3 is a far superior car to the 3 series - i.e. worth a lot more - or is it just the dealers getting greedy and once I've part-exchanged it with them it will go up on their forecourt a similar price to what I've purchased an X3 for? Regards, Martin.
  9. Hi Dave Thanks for the heads up. I got rid of run flats about two years ago (a good decision I reckon) and like you carry a skinny spare and a compressor / goo. I'm not sure what you mean by the 'full arch look' and would appreciate you explaining this further please. I'm in a quandary at the moment whether to change the wheels on my 3 Series or go for another car like the X1 with 'normal' tyres. I love the 3 Series don't get me wrong and with the roof down on a hot day it's great but being low down my wife (and me sometimes) has difficulty getting in and out. On top of that, as I play drums, it's a jig saw getting the kit in and every seat has something on it leaving no room for passengers! Martin
  10. I am fed up with continuous problems with my low profile wheels/tyres, spending a fortune on replacements when I go over the smallest of pothole - with barely an inch of rubber between road and wheel rim. I have 19" wheels at the moment and thought I could replace them with 17" which would give a much bolder tyre (preferably not low profile). Any advice would be helpful as to what to look for in wheel width and what sized tyres I would need. I have staggered wheels at present, would this be necessary with the replacements? Also, would this be classed as a modification with regards to my insurance? Thanks in advance... Martin
  11. The problem was a simple one fortunately. It was a bulge in a rear tyre, a blow out when trying to put air in it revealed the problem. Thanks for all the help received. Martin
  12. Good morning Dave I took my car in yesterday and had the front wheels and tyres checked over. They were both out of balance quite a bit but unfortunately it hasn't cured the problem. I saw a YouTube video last night by a British guy (apparently a BMW expert) talking about wheel wobble and shimmy which balancing the wheels on the machines garages use doesn't show up. He said to increase the tyre pressure all round to 42psi and demonstrated it as a cure. This pressure seems a bit hight to me (all mine are around 33psi), do you think it's worth a try? Regards, Martin
  13. Hi Dave Thanks for your suggestions. I think it might be worth taking it into a tyre place to check all wheels and tyres. I have a trolley jack, but as my years progress I don't have much confidence in my abilities and the arthritis in both knees doesn't help either! I'll let you know how I get on. Regards, Martin
  14. Hi Dave 1. It seems to start around 50mph and then worsen the faster I go, but seems to peak at 70mph (doesn't get any worse). 2. Yes, until the car gets to below 50pmh. 3. Had new pads and discs about 12 months ago. 4. 50,000 5. No. 6. Replaced. I got rid of run flats and replaced with conventional tyres. Thanks, Martin.
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