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Further to the scenario Dave, I remember that the FTM tripped a good two minutes before the DBC and DSC fault came up on the dashboard. Driving today however, the whole situation had disappeared, no warnings, and I was able to activate the FTM. Speaking to a friend today who is also a BMW owner and quite knowledgable he said the DBC and DSC can be triggered when the small battery in the tyre valve is getting low and sometimes with the motion of the wheels this can right itself from time to time - what do you know about these batteries? My friend said they are to monitor the tyre pressures, I've never heard of them before and I can't say when I have new tyres fitted that the fitters have mentioned it either as I guess it's an excuse to charge more? My tyres by the way are conventional, not run flats. I intend anyway to get all the pressures and tracking checked on Monday as the steering wheel not being straight is a signal that something is out of true. Thanks, Martin

Hi Dave Thanks for your quick response (as always, appreciated!). On your advice I will go and get the pressures checked and then the tracking to see if anything is untoward in that department, and then possibly a brake check to see if the callipers are free. I'll report back once I've done that. Thanks again, Martin.

Got warnings on dashboard today whilst driving 'DBC, FTM & DSC malfunction' and told me to drive moderately, however I have not experienced any under-performance of the car at all and braking seems normal. I understand these to be Dynamic Brake Control, Flat Tyre Monitor and Dynamic Stability Control, and assume whatever is wrong with the car affects all these three things at the same time? I have noticed of late that my steering wheel is not straight (about 11 o'clock) although the car is, and think I can hear the beginnings of a wheel bearing on the way out. These things might not be related to the dash warnings, I don't know. I now cannot reset the tyre pressure on the dash either. Any help / ideas most appreciated. Thanks Martin

Hi Stu Only just seen your reply, sorry! I have two kits, a 2 year old Ludwig Classic Maple all in Ahead Armor zipped bags, and a 3 year old DW all in Hardcase's. The Ludwig is easiest to put into my E36 as it's just a 20" BD and a 14" FT, but the DW is a challenge especially with a 22" deeper (18"?) BD and in a Hardcase too. Both kits' hardware sets are in two 28" Hardcase boxes, purchased especially to fit in the boot (maximum length that would fit) but saves the old back opposed to putting all the hardware in one case! I play in a 17 piece big band and use the Ludwig for that, and until last year I played in a Cliff Richard tribute theatre show which gave the DW an airing. The DW has it's own chrome snare but I use a 1976 vintage Ludwig Super Sensitive which is amazing - this replaced my 400 which was well pitted but had a good sound, the SS is immaculate and looks like new so goes well with the Classic Maple. I did a gig in London in 2019 on a hot summer's day and travelled all the way from Nottingham with the roof down and the drums in! If I can guarantee the weather I do as you say, just put the roof down and drop the kit in, then fill the boot once the roof is on again! Martin

Hi Kevin I have owned my hard top convertible for just over 3 years now and still love it - normally I get fed up with cars after this time but not this one, however as a drummer I find it a bit limiting getting my kit in so I'm on the look out now for an X3! Plus points: Great in the hot weather with the roof down, but I would advise getting the rear wind deflector as they make all the difference, around £450 from BMW but I got a new one on Ebay for £100 (old stock from a dealer) so shop around - or wait until I get my X3! As others have said before me, the car is an absolute pleasure to drive, roof on or off. Negative points: Low profile tyres, have been a nightmare for me and I have damaged alloys and replaced tyres like there's no tomorrow on occasion - there's about an inch of rubber between the rim and the tarmac so avoid potholes like the plague! I have given up now on putting decent tyres on my car and the last one was a budget for £65. Run flats - get rid, and get a 'get you home' spare wheel, but be aware that it will take up some of the extremely limited boot space. Again, stupid money brand new, so I got one off Ebay for about £50. Boot space - small, and even smaller with the roof down and with the spare wheel virtually zero capacity. Rear seats - Unless you are putting small kids on the rear seats, forget they are there, however, handy for putting suitcases on especially when the rear seat rest hinges down to create a flat surface. And lastly, be aware you will probably have some rattles somewhere which is due to all the mechanisms for the roof. If you play golf like me, unless you get the model with the centre 'ski' hole in the back seat rest, your clubs with have to go on the front seat next to you. Other than that, enjoy! Martin

Hi Dave Any idea as to what my problem might be once I get the door card off? Is there any way of checking if the window bolts are loose before taking it off? Martin

Every time I go over a bump, something inside the drivers side door clunks, obviously something loose in there. Anyone had similar experience and found out what it is? I think it might be something to do with the window mechanism - YouTube videos suggest some bolts that need tightening under the door card, which I am led to believe is an easy removal? Any help as usual is greatly appreciated. Martin

I have a 3 series M Sport 320D hardtop convertible. I love the car but it's got issues now where it's becoming impractical with regards not having a big enough back seat, getting in and out due to it being low, getting my drum kit in it and getting fed up when I go over the slightest bump in the road knackering the tyre and sometime the wheel as well - there's about an inch between the rim and the deck. I've stopped putting expensive tyres on it now. I am thinking of changing to an X3 (with normal tyres). My 3 series is a 2013 and trade in I have been offered figures from £7k to £9.5k, but to buy an X3 of the same age and mileage will cost me an additional circa £8k. Can someone tell me if the X3 is a far superior car to the 3 series - i.e. worth a lot more - or is it just the dealers getting greedy and once I've part-exchanged it with them it will go up on their forecourt a similar price to what I've purchased an X3 for? Regards, Martin.

Hi Dave Thanks for the heads up. I got rid of run flats about two years ago (a good decision I reckon) and like you carry a skinny spare and a compressor / goo. I'm not sure what you mean by the 'full arch look' and would appreciate you explaining this further please. I'm in a quandary at the moment whether to change the wheels on my 3 Series or go for another car like the X1 with 'normal' tyres. I love the 3 Series don't get me wrong and with the roof down on a hot day it's great but being low down my wife (and me sometimes) has difficulty getting in and out. On top of that, as I play drums, it's a jig saw getting the kit in and every seat has something on it leaving no room for passengers! Martin

I am fed up with continuous problems with my low profile wheels/tyres, spending a fortune on replacements when I go over the smallest of pothole - with barely an inch of rubber between road and wheel rim. I have 19" wheels at the moment and thought I could replace them with 17" which would give a much bolder tyre (preferably not low profile). Any advice would be helpful as to what to look for in wheel width and what sized tyres I would need. I have staggered wheels at present, would this be necessary with the replacements? Also, would this be classed as a modification with regards to my insurance? Thanks in advance... Martin

The problem was a simple one fortunately. It was a bulge in a rear tyre, a blow out when trying to put air in it revealed the problem. Thanks for all the help received. Martin

Good morning Dave I took my car in yesterday and had the front wheels and tyres checked over. They were both out of balance quite a bit but unfortunately it hasn't cured the problem. I saw a YouTube video last night by a British guy (apparently a BMW expert) talking about wheel wobble and shimmy which balancing the wheels on the machines garages use doesn't show up. He said to increase the tyre pressure all round to 42psi and demonstrated it as a cure. This pressure seems a bit hight to me (all mine are around 33psi), do you think it's worth a try? Regards, Martin

Hi Dave Thanks for your suggestions. I think it might be worth taking it into a tyre place to check all wheels and tyres. I have a trolley jack, but as my years progress I don't have much confidence in my abilities and the arthritis in both knees doesn't help either! I'll let you know how I get on. Regards, Martin

Hi Dave 1. It seems to start around 50mph and then worsen the faster I go, but seems to peak at 70mph (doesn't get any worse). 2. Yes, until the car gets to below 50pmh. 3. Had new pads and discs about 12 months ago. 4. 50,000 5. No. 6. Replaced. I got rid of run flats and replaced with conventional tyres. Thanks, Martin.

My car has developed a slight vibration coming from the front, if my steering wheel was moving from side to side I'd say it was wheel balancing but it's not - can it still be wheel balancing without the steering wheel movement, I'm not sure? The vibration feels as if you are travelling over an uneven road surface, akin to when you drive over road works which hasn't had the top coat of tarmac added, lots of ridges etc, but not as pronounced if you get my meaning. It only happens after around 50mph and gets faster as the car increases speed. I've looked at the wheels as best I can both inside and outside rims and they look ok. Any help on the best course of action would be greatly received. Martin

Hi John - I was being facetious, sorry! Yes, I guess you are right - I was thinking of calling Sytners, our main dealer here in Nottingham but they might twig that I'm not going to purchase from them if I ask what size wheels and tyres I need! Worth a try though I guess, try BMW themselves possibly. Cheers Martin

Nobody has any idea then it seems!

I really love my 3 Series 320d M Sport hard top convertible. It's a bit low now for me and the missus to get in and out easily and getting my drum kit in it poses it's challenges, so I thought, time for an SUV. I'd decided on an X1 but now I'm thinking why am I getting rid of a car I absolutely love? Entry and exit and getting drums in and out I'm prepared to stick with but the one thing I do hate about it is the low profile wheels and tyres (19" wheels with about 1" of rubber between rim and deck!). Every pot hole and crevice in the road the tyres slash and sometimes buckle the wheel not to mention the times I've kerbed the damn things as the rims are lower that the concrete. I've god rid of run flats as they were a pain in the preverbal and I've stopped using expensive tyres and bought a get you home spare which has been a godsend of late. Now I thought, what if I replace the rims and tyres with conventional ones? Cheaper than changing the car, and I keep the car I love. Result! Question - can this be done? If so, what size rims and tyres do I need as I have no idea. I've seen some bargains recently for whole sets (secondhand) but haven't the faintest idea what I'm looking for. Any help and/or suggestions would be most welcome, and if it's possible, will it change the drive dramatically and is it classed as a modification as far as insurance is concerned? Martin

Hi Dave Thanks for the heads up. Economy and ground clearance are high up on the list - there are some roads I know of that I won't take my 3 Series down for fear of scraping the floor pan or slashing the tyres! I've managed without AWD for the last umpteen years so a 2WD X1 seems the sensible choice, however, I still like a bit of power so I reckon the 2.0 litre 20d will fit the bill. I've got around £17k to play with (assuming I can get around £9k for the 320 part-ex) so I'm looking for a 2016 or 2017 with about 25-30k on the clock max. Martin

Hi Dave Thanks for the heads up, very useful advice. What is the difference between the X1 and X3 actually? I remember the old sunroof fitters, but I was thinking more on the lines of having a proper OEM one doing by a BMW main agent. Personal preference I guess but I'm more in favour of a sunroof than aircon and driving a convertible for the last two years has been amazing. Also, is there any mpg sacrifice on having permanent 4WD against 2WD. Many moons ago I had several Suzuki Vitaras which sucked the juice like there was no tomorrow in 4WD, yet were very economical in 2WD. Thanks Martin

I have owned a 3 Series 320d M-Sport convertible for the last two years and love the car! However, due to decreased mobility of both me and the wife, the low profile tyres slashing at the slightest hole in the road and the fact that getting a drum kit in it is not easy, time has come unfortunately to get an SUV. I've looked at many different makes on line, and a friend who has just bought a brand new Kia Sportage keeps trying to tell me that I should get one, but seeing an X1 today in the flesh for the first time so to speak, and comparing the build quality of my 320 to my mate's Kia, BMW outweighs all of them. Now, going from a convertible I need the next best thing - a sunroof! However, most of the X1s I have seen do not have this feature and seem a bit of a rarity. Question - can the panoramic sunroof be retro fitted by professionals? If so, what sort of cost would be involved? Also, another friend who is a guru in everything BMW has told me the best engine to get is a 20d, not an 18d, and I must get an X-Drive. I assume the engine difference is like my 320 as opposed to a 318 which I understand, but what is the difference between an X-drive and an S-Drive? If it's the difference of having 4 wheel drive or not, is the 4 wheel drive option selective in the car, ie. can you switch it on and off? The trim levels I understand and I have been told that an M-Sport is the top trim and the SE is the lowest, I am assuming that's the case? I'm a bit fussy and realise it might be a long time before the right one comes along - X1 20d, X-Drive with panoramic sunroof & cream leather heated seats with maximum of 25k on the clock. Any help and buying advice greatly appreciated. Martin

Hi John No, I didn't replace the tyres myself, it was done by a reputable tyre dealer in Nottingham called Lindleys (I don't use back street suppliers). When I have to replace tyres now I always make sure I use the same make and pattern - I am using Landsail tyres which are made in China but have a good reputation within the tyre trade. They are quite reasonably priced at around £80 per tyre and because I have seriously low profiles they are subjective to damage quite easily and do not require a bank loan to replace each time. 28psi was used purely out of ignorance (this was the pressure I used in my previous car, a Jaguar S Type) and when I checked all four recently, the last one to be replaced had 37psi in it - this was inflated by the fitter. I thought it was a bit high but also gave me the thought that 28psi was too low. As a compromise, again out of ignorance, I put 33psi in all four. This is what prompted my posting on this forum to see exactly what they need to be. I had a reply about 10 days ago now by another forum member Greydog (I mistakenly placed the same question in the Newbies forum too) who told me of a neighbour with the same car put 32psi in the rears and 36psi in the fronts - he had also replaced run flats with conventional tyres. On that respect, I thought the 33psi I had in was a happy medium until I get chance to adjust the pressures at a garage - the rears are just 1psi to high and the fronts are just 3psi to low, nothing to be honest that is going to make a lot of difference. I will say that since I have put 33psi in all four, the ride has been much better. Thanks for your posting. Martin

Hi Dave Many thanks for that, very helpful. On that respect I'll leave the 33psi in all four tyres for now and probably bump the rears up a bit next time I'm passing a garage. My wheels are 19" and I replaced the run flats with Landsail tyres. They are from China but have very good reviews and are quite cheap at around £80 a throw. With extremely low-profile tyres, it's not too much of an expense to replace them when I hit a pothole, which on todays roads is quite easy! I have also purchased a get you home spare, which has been invaluable a couple of times. The run flat concept I think is not a good one, as the tyres are a lot more expensive, give a harder ride and you are doomed if you have a puncture as the grunge they give you to pump into them doesn't work very well. Cheers, Martin

I have replaced all my run flats with conventional tyres, but retained the same sizes. I am not quite sure what pressure to put in them and I can't understand the numbers on the plate in the drivers door jamb. I was putting around 28psi into them but I have recently had a new tyre and found when checking all four that the fitter had put about 37psi into the new one. I have since placed 33psi in all four tyres, front and back. Advice gratefully received, thanks. 2013 3 Series M Sport hard top convertible, 320d auto.