Emmo

I have replaced all my run flats with conventional tyres, but retained the same sizes. I am not quite sure what pressure to put in them and I can't understand the numbers on the plate in the drivers door jamb. I was putting around 28psi into them but I have recently had a new tyre and found when checking all four that the fitter had put about 37psi into the new one. I have since placed 33psi in all four tyres, front and back. Advice gratefully received, thanks. 2013 3 Series M Sport hard top convertible, 320d auto.

Here's how to save taking off the wheel, the wheel arch and the side repeater to clean out your windscreen washer filter or paying a stealer to do it for you (circa £170). Empty the bottle as much as you can, fill it with a diluted solution (about 2 pints will do) of water and 'Cillit Bang Black Mould Remover' (yes, you read it correctly!), leave to soak for 24 hours. Voila! Washers working perfectly! Martin

Hi Dave I'll try both Cillit Bang and then Coke if it doesn't work. I like Coke, and if it clears a blocked drain, what's it doing to my inside? Doesn't bear thinking about! I'll let you know how I get on. Martin

Hi Dave Many thanks again for your help. At 67 with arthritis in both knees I too am no longer a bendy young thing! I was hoping I could flush the system out with hot water, but it seems not the case. Most garages want about £160 to do the job! However, a household product called 'Cillit Bang' black mould remover seems to do wonders in our bathroom, so I was thinking of sticking some of that in my washer system before I start dismantling the car, what do you think? Thanks Martin

Is there any way I can clean the windscreen washer pump without removing it from the car, as it involves taking the wheel, wheel arch and side indicator off to reveal the damn thing! The headlight washers work fine as they use a second pump I believe, but the windscreen washers perform one reasonable bust followed by just an 'ooze' if you see what I mean.

Hi Dave Thanks for the info. No recalls on my car it would seem. What I will do today is to put a 12v source on the LEDs with the unit totally disconnected from the car, then I will place a test bulb on the wires going to the unit with it all connected to the car - process of elimination. I understood LEDs never blow like conventional bulbs. Cheers Martin

I have an advisory on my MOT and wondered if anyone can help me solve the problem. I have a 2013 320d M Sport convertible and the rear off side light cluster - the one that is part of the tailgate - is giving problems. The fog lamp in the cluster works fine but the bottom tail lamp part (I believe they are LEDs?) doesn't. I've had the whole assembly off the car and checked it with a circuit tester and it doesn't show a problem, but connected to the car it doesn't illuminate. The cluster to the right of it that is part of the main body/wing is fine. I believe there was a recall some time ago about a lamp issue. Can anyone throw some light on it please or help me sort the problem out. The fault it would seem doesn't lie with the bulbs themselves, more like power getting to them although as I said before, the fog lamp is working and uses the same plug.

Does anyone know how I change the bulbs in the rear lamp cluster that is on the edge of the boot lid? 3 Series 320D 2013, M Sport convertible hard top. Thanks.

Thanks guys, appreciated Martin

Dave I've tried to use the link you sent me but I'm having difficulty finding the exploded views. Can you help please? Martin

Hi Dave That certainly does help, many thanks. I have headlamp washers too but no rear screen (Convertible) so I guess I will have two filters. Thanks again, Martin

My windscreen washers are not operating fully. On activating, they squirt only once central windscreen and then continue in a lower, smaller flow at the bottom while the lever stalk is still being pulled towards me. I can repeat the process several times but I only get literally one squirt central windscreen every time. What can be wrong? Many thanks Martin

Hi. Thanks for that. I have had the 'Oil service required' warning so have had prices to do the oil change from £192 at Sytners, £175 at an independent and £79 at In'N Out who say they are able to reset the CBS warning after they have changed the oil and filters so that's who I've gone with. From what I've seen on the web, it's not difficult to do that anyway. I will probably start to have it serviced in the old fashioned way based on mileage and time, what intervals would you suggest for this? Many thanks, Martin

Excuse me for being dumb, but exactly how does servicing work? I've had the car now for a year (2013 model) and the only thing that's come up on the display is the MOT and now, engine oil change. There is nothing on the menu that tells me when it needs a full service like most cars do, just dates and mileages when things like brake pads want replacing etc. My last car was a Jaguar, and I just had it serviced every year - is this not the case with BMWs?

I have some tyre goo, but a tyre place told me today that once you use it the tyre is unrepairable. Looking on a US Youtube video, a guy suggests a compressor and a repair kit. Not sure what the repair kit contains, not a lot I guess at $7.99.

I'm going to replace my run flats one axle at a time with conventional tyres. I need a space saver spare - what size wheel and tyre do I need to use on my car with sizes of Front 225/35 19, Rear 255/30 19?

Going to check them over today Dave, thanks.

Thanks Greydog, I intend to get the tyres checked today providing man flu has subsided!

Sorry, posted this in wrong forum... Had a warning come up today on screen to say that I had a flat tyre/ pressue problem and to proceed with caution. Stopped, looked around - no flat tyre! Re-set the software and all now seems ok. I have run flats - can you tell visually when these are flat? Would anyone advise I get them checked anyway?

Had a warning come up today on screen to say that I had a flat tyre and to proceed with caution. Stopped, looked around - no flat tyre! Re-set the software and all now seems ok. I have run flats - can you tell visually when these are flat? Would anyone advise I get them checked anyway?

Many thanks Dave, much appreciated - answers all my questions.

Firstly my apologies for placing this post in the Newbies section as well - not sure how to remove it, maybe a moderator can help please? I have just forked out for a weld on one of my alloys and have been advised by the guy who did it to change my run flat tyres with conventional ones. The advantages I know are smoother ride, cheaper tyres and less chance of damage to the wheel when I hit a pot hole. I have several questions however which I am hoping someone can answer. 1. Can I run conventional tyres on the front and run flats on the back? (My front tyres are due for replacement soon, but the back ones still have lots of life left and will be replaced as and when they need it). 2. I have no spare - If I purchase one, can I use a space saver for instance and if so, what sort of size do I need to look for? 3. My rear wheels are wider than the front (staggered). If I have to have a full sized spare, what size do I get and can it be used on either axle? 4. The other option is not to have a spare at all and eventually the car will have four conventional tyres once they have all been replaced due to wear etc. If I got a puncture, rather than call my breakdown insurance all the time, can I use one of those emergency spray inflator aerosols? Can these be used on run flats as well? I have checked my insurance and they are happy for me to make the change. My tyres are 225/35 R19 front, and 255/30 R19 rear. Car is a 2013 3-Series M-Sport 320d hard top convertible. Thanks in advance for any replies. Martin

I have just forked out for a weld on one of my alloys and have been advised by the guy who did it to change my run flat tyres with conventional ones. The advantages I know are smoother ride, cheaper tyres and less chance of damage to the wheel when I hit a pot hole. I have several questions however which I am hoping someone can answer. 1. Can I run conventional tyres on the front and run flats on the back? (My front tyres are due for replacement soon, but the back ones still have lots of life left and will be replaced as and when they need it). 2. I have no spare - If I purchase one, can I use a space saver for instance and if so, what sort of size do I need to look for? 3. My rear wheels are wider than the front (staggered). If I have to have a full sized spare, what size do I get and can it be used on either axle? 4. The other option is not to have a spare at all and eventually the car will have four conventional tyres once they have all been replaced due to wear etc. If I got a puncture, rather than call my breakdown insurance all the time, can I use one of those emergency spray inflator aerosols? Can these be used on run flats as well? I have checked my insurance and they are happy for me to make the change. My tyres are 225/35 R19 front, and 255/30 R19 rear. Car is a 2013 3-Series M-Sport 320d hard top convertible. Thanks in advance for any replies. Martin

I have this annoying rattle in my driving side door when I go over bumps, more like a clunking noise than a rattle I guess. Door and window work fine by the way. Any ideas guys? 3 Series 320d M Sport hard top convertible 2013. Thanks

I have only just noticed (not had car for very long) that one of my kidney radiator grilles has all black fins and the other side has chrome edged ones. Both have chrome surrounds. One of these have obviously been replaced at some time or other - is there any way I can rub off the chrome edging on one of them so that they both look the same? Many thanks.