Greydog

Morning Steven There are a number of possibilities to check 1. Does the car go to sleep? 2. Battery age and condition. Even a new battery can fail as an example the OEM battery in the 4.6 died after 14 years I replaced it with an OEM same size same rating 9 months and issues Battery replaced 3 times under warranty before the issues stopped 3. Unplug the BM54 unit in the boot check the fuse in the Quadlock plug 4. What use is the car getting? many of us are not doing decent journeys so the battery never gets recharged properly. I use a Ctek charger once a month 5. Any other functions not working properly (eg Indicators not clicking but working, side lights staying on) could point to an LCM issue Do you have a BMW Diagnostic reader? A scan will quite probably help locate the problem Dave

Morning Cameron Welcome to the Forum I take it this is the check control message on the Idrive screen? First what use has the car been getting, many have been getting severely reduced use over the last year? It takes anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes driving to fully replace the starting discharge so lots of short journeys are one possible cause. Check the cigarette lighters are not stuck in and drawing current, check that there isn't a phone charger or accessory plugged in that is drawing power. Then either give the car a good run or fully charge the battery overnight. If the above doesn't do the trick then a session on a diagnostic reader may be needed, that or a slow patient process pulling system fuses and checking for discharge until the culprit is found. Hope this Helps Dave

Morning David Two Diffs were used 3.23 = 1 in the manual and 3.91 = 1 in the Automatic The part number for the manual diff was 33107524318 it was used in the E87 E90 E90 LCI E91 E91 LCI E92 E92 LCI models The 2.0d has a final drive ratio of 2.35 =1 This would have an effect on acceleration and lower revs at cruising speeds which may drop the engine of its torque curve? How it would feel in practice ? The 325 and 328i models I believe used the 3.23 Diff The 3.0d I believe used the 2.35 Diff I believe they would all physically fit, it is purely the effect on performance to consider Good Luck I hope this helps Dave

Hi Welcome to the Forum The Diagnostic Session at the Dealer will be the most informative As for the codes you have all point towards Fuelling issues so I would tend to start there, when was the fuel filter replaced, has the fuel delivery pressure been checked Check the Vacuum lines very carefully they can fail internally. Check the looms that feed the Injectors and the Coil Packs for continuity Buy yourself a BMW capable code reader it will cost less than a Diagnostic session at the dealer. I have an old laptop (Win 8 ) which has BMW 1.4.0 plus INPA/ISTA (both give dealer level information) 1.4.0 was around £10 INPA/ISTA cost £30 when I brought them. I also have programs for Mercedes Volvo and Toyota on the Laptop. There is a Useful website www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the relevant section it has useful exploded diagrams that will show where stuff goes. Another USA site is Pelican Parts they have a lot of information with excellent "how to's) complete with pictures the only difference is the steering wheel is on the wrong side. Good Luck at the Dealer Let us know how you get on Dave

Hi Stuart Welcome to the Forum Seems like you have covered all the usual culprits. After fitting were all faults cleared down? Have the pins in the ECU been checked for continuity? Just in case its a corroded pin at the ECU Good Luck Dave

The Eagles and George Micheal are on today

Thanks for those encouraging words !!! Not The old girl threw a wobbly yesterday opened the door all the fans running flat out ?? FSR I thought, so changed it (yes I had a spare in the garage) made no difference ran a scan and it seems the HVAC unit has died. Perfect when the weather is turning warm 😂 Replacement on the way then I will take the original apart to see if it is fixable The old X5 wont let you rest 🤣

I know where to come then, now your practiced 😂 Though the alternator on the 4.6 is water cooled just to make it more fun

Morning Stu At least your all safe, angry, frustrated but safe. One of the most frustrating things in our modern world is waiting for recovery, we have been AA members for years (30+) and never really used them until the last 5 years. First occasion out with my son in his Toyota and it stopped (turned out to be the Diesel Pump) I rang the AA told them the truck would need recovery "OK sir help is on it's way" this is the service that says we fix stuff in 30 mins !! 2 hrs and several calls later an AA van turns up spent 10 mins and announced the Truck needed recovery and he would arrange it WTF !!! Total waiting time 9hrs !!! Second time the X5 main crank vibration damper failed 5 miles from home guess what it still took 9 hrs !!! Oh the answer to your question is "an X5 goes about 9 miles without an alternator and all the lights on 🤣 Dave

Morning Ma773 Welcome to the Forum Can you open the boot with the key (check your handbook) I don't have an F30 but I am sure I read there is key release for the boot. The fault could be low battery voltage have you recharged the battery ? The charging points are under the bonnet. If that doesn't work you need a Diagnostic read by someone with a BMW capable reader. Your fault could be many things from a bad earth somewhere to a failing Footwell Module a diagnostic session can save you time and money Dave

Morning Eric I was told some years ago that wire is a "transport connection" only used between the factory and the Dealership it should be taped out of the way but it seems many Dealers just leave it hanging ?? My sister inlaw asked if I knew what it should be connected to, I told her the "ejector seat" don't touch it Bless she told several friends their car could have ejector seats I haven't had the heart to tell her it was a wind up !! My brother inlaw thinks it's hilarious Dave

Morning Martin And the garage didn't spot it when checking and balancing ??? Scary Glad its sorted Dave

Hi Ridler Welcome to the Forum First the obvious have you checked the wiring to make sure there are no breaks in it? If all OK then the probable cause is the actuator not to difficult to change take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section so you have the Part Number then Ebay and Google search for a replacement at a sensible price. Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Used ECU Testing many times with the Volvo's ABS issues were common 2 850R 3 V70T5 1 V70R Dealer always said the same "never seen this before" "we will have to order a complete ABS unit from Sweden" Found BBA Reman and ECU Testing, both could fix the issue but ECU were allays faster turnaround. Lets hope it is a good fix Dave

Hi Mike There was a post some time ago on one of the US sites that random non starting issues were being suffered by a 4.4 petrol owner turned out to be a faulty ignition switch. Worth checking ? You say sensors checked did you include the Crank sensor ? Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum I am not a diesel driver/owner but both sons our daughter and other family members are, and "dads" garage is free and has a beer fridge 🤣 From memory (better check what I say as I get older) the X5 has a (a) Tank pump this should move fuel either side of the saddle tank so it can be picked up below a 1/3 of a tank, (b) Inline fuel pump just ahead of the fuel filter this pushes fuel to the fuel rail through the high pressure pump. As the car runs well once started the high pressure pump seems ok. So I would be checking the low pressure side first. Logic tell me that the DDE sends a signal to the Fuel Pump Relay which in turn activates the pumps (tank and inline) So I would check the connections at the DDE unplug and use electrical contact cleaner (not WD40) on all pins and the plug, test for continuity between the pin in the DDE and the relay. Same with the relay to fuel pump check continuity (also check earth continuity) BMW use common earth points (comb type) I had weird random faults that traced to a common earth point in the spare wheel well. If all checks out OK then it is a sensor check, fuel pressure sensors and fuel pressure at the fuel rail ignition on engine off. If everything is checking OK I have read (some time ago) that there is a pressure relief valve on the high pressure pump if it sticks the pump will have trouble building pressure. I use BMW 1.4.0 for 90% of all diagnostic on the beemers owned by family and friends plus I have INPA/ISTA for newer models. My old laptop has programs for Volvo, Mercedes, VW/Audi and an old Foxwell for general stuff (my wife thinks it is better I smell of beer and oil the beer and perfume 🤣) What are you using to read codes and live data as it will need a BMW specific reader to get the right information Just the ramblings of an old bloke but I hope it helps Dave

Hi Danny Welcome to the Forum How do you feel if you sniff it ?? 😂 To be serious I would check the Cabin Pollen filters. Check the cars history carefully in case it has been damaged and an airbag triggered. Dave

Hi Samuel Welcome to the Forum As it is overheating under load my first suspect would be the thermostat, even a new one can be duff. I would change it anyway. You say Radiator changed was it new or one the old owner had? could be partially blocked if it was reused? Is the water pump OK Not much else comes to mind Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Oliver Welcome to the Forum Sounds like something is not connected I would back track all work done. Has the main power lead been connected to the starter? Solenoid lead to starter? Engine earth strap? Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum What car / model / year ? It will probably need a complete headlamp unit change but take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list you can search by Model/Year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look in the relevant section. Once you have the part numbers then check all the online sources for best prices. Good Luck Dave

Internet search

Hi Sideways Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com either check by model or put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Then look in the trim section (I think) there should be a small exploded drawing showing where stuff fits even lists of fasteners needed. It should help Good Luck Dave

Hi Craig Welcome to the Forum If water is getting in you first need to find where and how any repair will be at risk otherwise. Check all the seals around windows and doors make sure the drains from the sunroof are clear. From your description get your LCM/FWM module checked Dave

Morning Brook Welcome to the Forum He needs to check the BMW brochure unless of course it is an M series car Plenty of information online Dave

Morning Russ Headlamps should have been plug and play as the engine bay looms and terminal connectors should have been there!! Which is why I think the PDC connector should be there somewhere. Great result with DHL/BMW Keep us up to speed Dave