Greydog

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Spoilers are and always will be a matter of personal taste, if you were buying from a BMW Dealer they would want to fit a M sport item but if thats what you prefer it looks fine to me not OTT and Boy Racer ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Dave

Hi Zeke Welcome to the Forum You may need a Turbo Specialist for this as BMW do't repair anything they just replace complete assemblies Try www.realoem.com if you aren't aware it is a BMW online parts list either put the part number in the search box or the last 7 digits of your Vin it will call up your model but as said above a BMW Dealer would charge for and fit a complete Turbo assembly Good luck Dave

Morning Stu Sorry it took a little while Friday afternoon had to nip down to Wincanton Saturday Judging a Gundog Working Test and yesterday Dog Training day (you jinxed it with your Slow day) So very confusing while the Wiring Diagram shows the rear lower tailgate lock and actuator button it doesn't give wire colours (pictures attached) I checked the Bus system that didnt help either according to the wiring diagrams all pre-facelift models (up to 2004) should be the same All I can think is either there is a short somewhere (through robber cable gromit at the top) So not sure if it helps or not Looked at the PDC and it points toward the PDC controller (in the boot down by the battery) Dave

Morning Phil Not sure if you can get just the Glass Lens all that I see in realoem is the Headlamp Insert which looks like the full unit Part Number 63121383918 I guess you have checked all the BMW Dismantlers to see if they can help Dave

Hi Phil Welcome to the Forum I just ran a quick search on realoem and it doesn't recognose that part number what I get for the RH Headlamp (European Models) is 63128354524 which superceeded 63121392036 Have you tried BMW Classic Section to see if they can help? Dave

Hi Stu Good to know that its all back together 😁 I have wiring diagrams in ISTA so what model and year did the replacement parts come from and I will check, yours is 3.0ltr petrol right ? I will put a list together and send it Dave

Morning James First tools Halfords will probably have everything you need the same applies to most Motor Factors. Remember to check prices don't assume that your getting the best price I use EuroCar Parts for most spares if they don't have it in stock generally they can get it in 24hrs A decent Socket set and decent set of Combination spanners (open one end ring at the other) plus Flat and cross head screw drivers would be enough to get you going, get a box of rubber gloves as well saves a load of scrubbing later😁 If you need sockets bigger than those in your set you can buy them singley, same applies to Combination spanners Sump plug a 17mm socket is fine, slacken it off then unscrew with your fingers (remember to buy a magnet on and extending handle so you can fish it out of the old oil in the catch tank) Your engine will hold around 6 or 7 litres 2 4.5/5ltr cans are fine and oil stores well, my thought is transporting the used oil to your local recycling centre for disposal you will have more than will fit into a 5ltr can so you may well need to find a couple of plastic bottles to help out Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum You will find several Videos online that should help this is one of the simple jobs that with some basic tools is easy to do Tools I use are Oil Filter Cap 36mm Socket (You can buy special filter cap sockets) Oil Drian plug 17mm spanner Large oil Catch tank (mine is 16ltr) magnet Funnel, Ramps Trolley jack and axel stands a few disposable cloths Parts Oil around 7ltrs (I use Mobil 1. 5-30 LL04 which meets BMW specs Oil Filter OEM filters are MANN which I get from my local Auto Factors. I always fit a new Copper Crush washer to the Sump Drain Plug Method I run the engine to warm the oil then drive the front wheels onto the ramps, put the trolley jack under the rear diff and raise the rear until the car is level and put the axel stands under the rear jacking points. Next working above I undo the Filter cap and remove the filter have a cloth handy to catch drips and spills I put the filter into plastic bag (donated by a local supermarket) wipe the filter housing clean add a little oil to the "O" rings on the new filter and put it in and replace the cap. Now under the car there is a drop down flap that covers the Drain Plug take it off then slide the catch tank under the drain plug and remove the plug allow the oil to drain. If you dropped the drain plug into the catch tank that's when you will need the magnet (We have all done it) recover the drain plug remove the old crush washer and replace it then put the drain plug back and tighten it, hand tight is OK it doesn't need to be Gorrilla tight. give the area a wipe so it is clean and you will see any leaks. Now up top put the Funnel into the oil filler and fill with oil after putting in 5 ltr let it settle and check the level and underneath for any signs of leaks, start the engine let it run a short while turn off and let it settle check the level and top up check underneath for any leaks and replace the drop down flap. Chack around the filter housing wipe everything down. The old oil you can now pur into the oil cans that the new oil came in wipe out the catch tank and put all thoily cloths into the bag with the fiter ready for taking to your local tip Job done Hope this helps Dave

Hi Stewart I thought the Foxwell would be capable If you have no warnings or faults showing i wouldn't be concerned as you can trigger a DPF Regeneration cycle whenever you wish (only really needed if all you are doing is lots of short journeys) my E70 I trigger around twice a year. No worry about the MOT and DPF as it will be the original, it's just the cars ECU that thinks it is new. Dave

Morning Stewart Even if the Foxwell can't give soot and ash levels it should be able to tell the car it has a new DPF Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum Fuel Pump Relay is one of the first suspects, then Crank Sensor and Cam Sensors Did the injectors go back in the correct order? I take it you have a Diagnostic scanner? if the injectors were mixed up you will need the numbers from the top of each injector and they will need registering to each position. Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Hi Stewart BMW of course deny any software jiggery pokery, however I have read of this before if you have the diagnostics can you read the Soot content and Ash content ? Th eSoot should be burnt off by the Regeneration cycle the Ash is what remains. One lad on another Forum had DPF warnings even though both Soot and Ash content were very low (single figure % ) he simply told his car it had a new DPF through the Diagnostic Software he had (his mileage was Starship stuff) no more issues Dave

Found a couple of online Vid's to download VMware to Win 11 so I think you will be OK Dave

With the E53 4.6is at the first change yes (Admiral at that time) and like LV as long as they were the correct size and rating it was of little interest. I have to say I haven't bothered since Dave

Morning Paul Sorry to hear that, the Mechanic was I fear generating work at your expence. First sign of chain wear is a definite rattle on cold start, if you listen with a probe you will hear a wooshing sound as the chain guides are a type of plastic. If someone tells you chain wear drain the oil and filter it through a paper coffee filter any metal bits will show up in the filter My brother inlaw has run 5 series Touring since the early 2000's he is now on his 6th all have been 3.0d (basically the same engine) or its diretives all have been ECU tuned, the current one 540d xDrive runs almost 400hp. His business is Europe based so his cars get driven hard and all have exceeded 200k before trading in for the next model. All have had full BMW histories with interim oil and filter changes at 5 to 6k intervals. He has had some odd bits fail as we all do but never had a chain problem. Dave

I think it is standard with the VM ware virtual machines I will have a dig later to see Dave

Morning John I went from Run Flat to Non Run Flat for one simple reason availabilty, when I needed a rear tyre in an emergency. That was mid 2000's and I know things have probably changed but since then I have stuck to non runflat as both the E53 and the E70 rum 20" staggered set ups both cars are currently on Hankook non runflat's cost is also a benefit at around half the cost of Michelin or Bridgestone Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum BMW in their wisdom !! Moved the timing chain to the rear of the engine so it's an engine out job if there are any timing chain problems. Having said that if the car has a solid history plus any evidence of interim oil changes you should be fine. I am personally not a fan of extended service periods so my 3.0d X5 (same engine and trans) gets an oil and filter change every year regardless of miles covered (current 133k) or what the service schdule says Hope its what your looking for if it is ENJOY Dave

How's the rebuild going Stu I am having a garage clear up while your enjoying the sun swapping bits on your car 😅 I have quite a few E53 bits if they are of interest from FSR to a 17" spare wheel (never been used) to a full set of 20" Type 87 wheels and tyres. I will send a list if its of interest Dave

Morning Just set up a Virtual Machine on your laptop running Win 7 and you should be away 😁 Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Seems that was a close call !! Nothing in settings or the handbook that helps? If you do disable it the next time you want to open it you will curse though Dave

Hi Mick Welcome to the Forum First wheel rotation if the tyres are asymetric then that will not work as you will end up with tyres turning against their rotational arrows also check your wheel if you have the same tyre sizes front and rear it's normally less of an issue. X5's the E53 in particular used to suffer with camber issues at the rear due to the lower spherical bearing failing it wore tyres on the inner edge but most of them had a much wider rear tyre set my 4.6is and E70 has 275x40x20 front 315X35X20 rear. More of a tyre/cost issue than transmission damaging though The X1 E84 has a slightly different rear axel set up but is still adjustable for both Camber and Toe. If you are competent with spanners actually changing rear bushes isn't such a difficult job the one piece of advice I would give is there are eccentric bolts for camber and toe I replace those as a matter of course to make sure everyth can be aligned properly. If you don't have one hire or borrow a bearing push/pull kit and your away. should take about 11/2hrs per side. I mark the position of the eccentric bolts with tippex so it goes back the same then when the job is done off the tyre shop that can handle 4 wheel alignment. Take a look at www.realoem.com if you aren't aware it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check out the rear axel section Hope this helps Dave

Morning Cameron As far as I know the 18" wheels were not supplied as a staggered set (Wider rear) so should be 8J rims all round there for should be 225x40x18 front and rear you really need the help of a mechanic or at least someone who understands what they are looking at, the Rim size is stamped on the inside of the wheel so I would take off a rear wheel if it is stamped 8J tyres are wrong With Xdrive transmission there only needs to be around 5mm difference between front and rear tyres which is why BMW recommend Star rated tyres from recommended suppliers Tyres are not just round black rubber things ! ! The front and rear should ideally be from the same Manufacturer and the correct size for the car. A part worn tyre may have 4mm tread depth a new tyre almost 10mm tread depth which can be enough to cause transmission damage. If a Diff is damaged cost will be around £800 to £900 for the Diff plus fitting if the transfer case is damaged you could be looking at a BIG bill Dave

But What size front are 225x?x? rear the same 255x?x? If wheels are 17" they should be 7.5J rims 18" 8.0J rims 19" should be 8.0J all round or if wider rears then 8j front and 9j rear The ONLY wheel set that has wider rear rims is 19" so if your car has 17" or 18" wheels the tyres are probably wrong just checking the width does not make them correct Dave

Hi Cameron That sounds wrong for an X! to me unless the rear wheels are wider than the front If your wheels are 17" tyre size should be 225x50x17 94H front and rear 18" Wheels tyres should be 225x45x18 or if wider rims at the rear 255x40x18 at the back 19" rims tyres should be 225x40x19" front 255x35x19" rear As I have said check very carefully if the rear tyres are 255 but should be 225 then the distance they cover each rotation will be to much of a difference between front and rear and will cause damage Dave