Greydog

Morning Micheal If when the key man was messing with your car if he had the doors open for some time before programming the key the battery voltage may have dropped. If it did it could well stop the key being correctly programmed battery should give minimum 12.5v measured at the charge points under the bonnet (Engine Off) if you get it running it should read 14.6v at the same place. As your key will not lock/unlock the car properly, either it isn't programmed correctly or it just doesn't work? Have you checked all fuses and relays ? Starter relay and Fuel pump relay ? Back to the Key if everything else checks out A general OBD reader will not give you much useful information as it will probably only see the DME so any codes will be engine/trans related. You really need a BMW specific Diagnostic reader as an example my copy of ISTA tells me I have 51 control nodes in my E70 and I can explore each one giving around 100 options. I also have iCarsoft V2 for BMW that shows 80 control points for my E70 in both system any faults are Identified by a BMW specific code and a description of the fault in English. A Generic reader will supply a code which you will have to search on the internet and interpret Dave

Hi Micheal Answered your first post . first what condition is the Battery in ? has it been checked ? You need a Diagnostic Scan to see what is going on the Diagnostic will only help if it is a good BMW capable system. If the battery is in tip top condition you could try disconnecting it Neg first the Positive the touch the terminals together (discharges any residual charge in the system) leave it disconnected for 30mins the reconnect, this is a dealer trick to clear any faults. Then try registering the key again if that doesn't work Diagnostics Good Luck Dave

Hi Micheal Welcome to the Forum You will need an Original BMW key I believe not cheap a BMW Dealer will need site of the V5 ten they can order one for you then you can clone the other key You could try sitting in the car holding the key to the key symbol press and hold the Lock and Unlock buttons at the same time all doors and windows should be closed. Hold both buttons down for 5 secs then release them the car should lock and unlock its self. If your lucky this should code the key to your car if it doesn't work you may be stuck with the dealer route Good Luck Dave

BMW E70 Headlamp bulb change = Remove Wheel remove wheel arch liner reach in and change ???? What happened to lamps being changed at the road side 🤣 Sadly BMW are not alone there are several Manufacturers where simple bulb changes need lots of dismantling french poo had one of their models where the front wing had to be removed. I still love my Beemer even if it does make me scratch my head sometimes Dave

Morning John Is it possible the union is damaged ?? thinking out loud now Dave

Morning Maximilian Welcome to the Forum Never heard of this before but reading what you have done so far I would carry out a smooth running test at each of the established test points ie, Engine cold Engine Hot and after cooling, also check rail pressures. My thinking is one or more injectors are out of synch or not preforming as they should, Cold symptoms are masked as more fuel is delivered by the DME Hot fuel atomizes faster so it again may be masked. Hope this Helps Dave

Morning Jon Spoke to a contact who is quite high up in BMW USA and he kindly asked his team, they have heard of a few instances where this has happened, the cause in most cases was cars set to 12hr cycle and the software runs 24hr cycle plus a few where Dealers re-flashed software. He did state it in the low 20's of cases I don't know if that is any help Dave

Hi Simon Welcome to the Forum Never tried so can't confirm but I would assume that once unplugged the Dampers will trigger a warning and as it's suspension related may even cause limp mode/restricted performance. It follows that the car needs to know the system is not active so you may need the help of someone with ISTA-P Good Luck Dave

Hi Matt Welcome to the Forum Short answer no tyre pressure should be the same Dave

Morning Paul Translation isn't much of an issue the real question is did it help 🤣 Dave

Morning Gary The upper wishbones are a bit of a fiddle but the rest is straight forward the rest is straight forward. I use new mounting bolts for the lower arms and make sure the suspension is under load before final torqueing My E70 took around 2hrs a side (including Tea and Biscuits) and that's in my Home Garage without a lift (just get the car as high as you can) The 4 wheel alignment afterwards was £90 at my local Garage I use for MOT's (2 years ago) So a £1000 seems a bit OTT unless he was supplying parts as well Sunny day today we know what your doing 🤣 Dave

Morning Jon Welcome to the Forum Not owned or played with a Hybrid or EV yet (but at my age I probably won't 🤣) can you not get a setting for the Charger a bit like the washing machine or Dishwasher ?? Dave

Morning Neshan Welcome to the Forum Attached is a Diagram of the Turbo Vacuum control from www.realoem.com later I will take a look at the Workshop Information in ISTA see if it's any better Hope this Helps Dave Great Motor by the way

Yay well done Gemma Let us know how it goes 😄 Dave

Morning Gemma I find it hard to understand why any garage would say these cars are to difficult to work on let alone a supposed BMW Specialist. You say there was a leak they thought was from the Rocker cover was that fixed? As it got worse after service it could be the leak was at the filter housing which has now cracked due to being disturbed (as said a member on this site has experienced just that) You just need a decent Garage/Mechanic who is prepared to take off the engine covers and under tray so they can actually see where the oil is coming from. About half an hours effort to take them off (even for an Old Bloke) If the leak is on the passenger side that's where the Oil Filter housing is, drivers side could be Turbo Oil Feeds and Return pipes are. Don't give up contact a few independents as well as specialists Dave

Morning John It depends what Diagnostic he was using there are several systems that can communicate with the car but mainly the key control units. Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft there is quite a long list then there is BMW ISTA/INPA which can see every component, it includes Workshop Information (WIS) which gives Photos and descriptions of how to do the job plus advice on test programs to confirm diagnostics. I use ISTA at home The air suspension system isn't complicated it has 2 Air Springs 2 Ride Height sensors 2 Fuses a Relay a Control Unit (Programable) and the Compressor. As your issue started with the Rear Ride Height sensor I would begin there with the Plug Connector and wiring make sure there is no damage to the wiring. You will need a Wiring Diagram (ISTA) each plug has 3 wires that feed back to the Control Unit (the Control Unit is in the Rear Right Cubby at the bottom of the Fuse board) BMW rear air springs are used on several models not just X5's I have seen several where the wiring had become cracked and brittle with broken connections. That is where I would start, if continuity is there then in my experience Control Unit failure is rare but not impossible a replacement from a Dismantler would be a starting point and not to £££ they are plug and play. With ISTA they can be checked and recalibrated if needed. Dave

Morning Gemma Welcome to the Forum Not easy to Diagnose without seeing the car but lets put the leak to one side for a moment. The engine in your car is basically the 3.0d 6 cylinder diesel that is fitted to many models and has been around for years with a reputation for being a really strong engine. Where it differs is rather than 1 Turbo it has 2 so whoever you have been talking to is just plain wrong it just needs a lot of covers removed before you can see the engine. I am not a Garage just a very enthusiastic BMW owner who has always carried out his own maintenance at home. I have seen 3 X5's with the 3.0d engine that have had oil leaks from the Oil Filter housing and a member on here has had a split Oil Filter housing (different engine) I have also seen leaks from the Turbo oil feeds and return pipes not difficult to fix just fiddly to get at particularly when your an Old Bloke who isn't as bendy as he used to be 😅 If you are not able to DIY Google the Register of BMW Specialists put your post code in and it will find a Specialist near you, I would talk to a few to check costs reference lists etc Hope you get it fixed Dave

Hope that is the Fix John Dave

Morning Liam Welcome to the Forum Without Diagnostics not really the buzzing sound could be the Transfer case motor over-running or a stuck relay, without hearing it difficult to hazard a guess. I have read that cars with the Aisin Warner 8 speed box around your vintage did have some issues but most were on US sites At least you have a proactive Dealer and a Warranty lets hope it's a simple fix Dave

Morning John Just had a quick look at ISTA and the workshop section doesn't mention any special requirement (Viton) so I can only think it is either a damaged seal or a wrong one. With you on the leaks Good luck Dave PS. Both Febi and Meyle were OEM suppliers so there should be plenty on the market

Morning John Welcome to the Forum First the obvious have you tried nipping up the nut ? If you have tried that and the leak remains then I would check the "O" ring for damage also the Nut and Housing. Green colour "O" rings are normally Viton material so I would check www.realoem.com if you haven't already? Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your model then check the Steering section. There should be a Part Number on your receipt from the Dealer that you can check against realoem that will confirm if it is correct I hope this helps Dave

Morning Adil Did you have the fluids changed or did the supplying garage ? Is there a receipt that shows which fluids were used ? Was a software update done ? A diagnostic scan is needed to confirm the fault it could be software related or the pump failing, fingers crossed its a simple fix Dave

Morning Barry Welcome to the Forum Never seen anything like that before and the letter appears to be from BMW UK not the Dealer? I think I would take some legal advice, the sale of goods act does mention goods being suitable for purpose if I recall. At the least I would ask for a letter guaranteeing this is not a safety issue. If they won't give that then technically they appear to be asking you to drive an unsafe car ? Good Luck Dave

Morning Adil Welcome to the Forum First thought is when (if ever) was the Transmission last serviced ? Back in 2003 many BMW Dealers were telling people transmissions were sealed for life ?? The gearbox in any car is often ignored/abused Engine oil and filters are often changed annually but gearboxes Manual. SMG or Automatic ignored until there is an issue? Slow changes could be caused by dirty thick gearbox fluid or low fluid levels. My starting point would be, get the gearbox filters fluids and seals serviced correctly a ZF specialist will also be capable of updating software Dave

Hi John The Suspension Control Unit should be programmed with the correct ride height so once the fault is cleared things should return to normal Fuses are in the Front Fuse Panel No 32 Relay is R2 in the rear Fuse Panel No 107 Correct ride height should be 720mm +/- 5mm measured from the bottom of the wheel rim to the wheel arch lip through the wheel centre Dave