Greydog

Morning George Welcome to the Forum Nice car, I was thought that Comfort Access was a standard on the top of the range models like the 135's (but then I am an old bloke so senility could be creeping in?) Have you checked one of the Vin decoder sites it will bring up the build sheet for your car I have used https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/vin/decoder in the past, just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box Good luck enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Perry Sounds like your having fun (not) and from what you describe and your actions you are capable of and don't mind getting your hands grubby. If you are not aware take a look at www.newtis.info It is a BMW Technical Information site BMW main Dealers use the same for repair and service information. Either put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will call up your model. All the wiring diagrams are there plus technical information. As Stu says a BMW specific diagnostic program is a great help. I had a few weird issues with my 4.4 when I owned it I traced it eventually to a poor earth point. BMW use common earth points (combs) so several items use the same earth point, in my case it was the one in the back of the boot behind the spare wheel (or in my case the LPG Tank god they are heavy) there is one bolt holding the comb to the chassis it was rusty so I undid it cleaned it treated the rust and used an electrical contact paste when bolting back. All weird behavior halted no more current drain. There are several earth points around the car one in the passenger footwell under the LCM I gave all mine the same treatment just to be sure. I don't know if that is your issue but as it's free it's got to be worth a go. However it could be the inline fuel pump, the glow plug relay, the high pressure fuel rail sensor, even a clogged/blocked fuel filter (when a was it last changed) I have even read of the transfer pump in the tank failing and when less than half a tank the issues start. I would use the technical site and if you need parts check www.realoem.com same method last 7 digits of your Vin to call up your model I hope Iv'e helped not hindered Good Luck Dave

Morning Nick When your guys checked did they check the lower steering column joint? It is a universal joint arrangement and they can stiffen up and give all sorts issues/noises, Initially I would lubricate it if the noise disappears you know for sure the culprit. On my first X5 the joint tightened up on right lock but not left? after some spray grease it lasted another 8 to 10k before I had to change it. It is one of those jobs that's a real fiddle rather than difficult. Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum Have you checked www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list find your model and year then cross reference against the part numbers for your cat against the 140m model or even 240m models. Dealers have enforced tunnel vision and will never consider swaps like this . When I owned Volvo T5's an ECU remap would get to around 300hp but if a 200 cell cat with 3" down pipe were part of the change 350+ was easily achieved (fast dog movers) So I would also check out some of the after market sports cat suppliers 2 that I used with the Volvo's were Remus and Scorpion, Remus are expensive Scorpion were always more affordable and I though a better sound. Good Luck Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Batteries either not charged or on there way out are the most common cause of spurious issues in BMW's though this is a new one for me. Get the battery checked and fully charged should be over 12.6 volts engine off 14 + volts engine running. Assuming the battery is OK when (if ever) was the gearbox serviced? If the Diagnostic check is correct check www.newtis.info select your model then put the fault or part into the search box, You will get the service/repair information If your buying parts check www.realoem.com put the lasy 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then look for the parts you need Good Luck Great Motor Dave

Oops sorry Martin Old Fat head and fingers The following year I had the great pleasure of following the same Disco across the Moor near Leyburn on a tractor route, he rove into a couple of deep water filled ruts and bottomed out. As he had been Gentleman enough to show the rest of us where the hazard was we drove around him and my rubbish X5 pulled him out 😂 Oh I love Yorkshire sometimes Dave

Morning Mark Glad you enjoyed your break you certainly chose the right weather. A few years ago a party of us were off to North Yorkshire for a shooting trip 3 cars all loaded with 2 old blokes all there gear and a boot full of dogs. We decided on our own Top Gear challenge, the challengers were (1.) 4.4 X5 LPG 2002 (2.) Landrover Discovery 3 2008 (3.) Range Rover TDV8 2010 loser was the first to stop for fuel (the callenge was suggested by the TDV8 driver) We all topped off the tanks at Bucks Barn services on the A24 south of Horsham (except I filled both) My Land Rover driving buddies set off TDV8 leading Across to the A23 M23 East around London M11 A14 A1M was the route about 290 miles all at normal motorway speeds to Redmire. Then 4 days of trundling around the moors the X5 went onto Petrol on the 2nd morning. Then home same route in reverse the TDV8 was the first to stop at South Mimms the Disco stopped at Dartford Crossing in true Top Gear spirit those that stopped were abandoned to the vultures. The fuel light was on in the X5 as I crossed the Thames I chickened out at Pease Pottage on the M23 and filled up with LPG and a 1/4 tank. The X5 covered 660 miles quietly comfortably and without a hitch and the best bit, I was really pleased to have beaten the two friends who had both said "why did you buy that, they are rubbish" Dave

Morning Sean Welcome to the Forum You have changed the rear brakes and say the Disc's (assume your talking front) are not warped how were they checked are the front pads clean or is there signs of chattering (odd shiny patches) could be a sign of a sticking caliper. However my money would be on the issue being front radius rod bushes they normally last around 80k depending on use/abuse dished out (Part 6 in the drawing) After 2 changes on the X5 I pressed the bushes out and replaced them with Polybushes. Front Suspension.pdf

Hi Brian I can only think there is a frayed wire in the door loom that moves now and again or possibly in the mirror housing. A diagnostic check may be a bit of a lottery unless a fault is present when its run. Are you OK with a tester and a wiring diagram? That may be the only way I am afraid. You can find the wiring diagrams on www.newtis.info Dave

Hi Sheri Welcome to the Forum Are you aware of the Government website where you can check the MOT and its MOT history https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ just put the Reg number in the search box you can also check any outstanding recalls on the same site. 2 front shock absorbers and drop links for the anti roll bar should have been fitted to get through the MOT (check the site above for any new advisories) I assume the other defects are fixed. The one to check is the oil leak take someone with some knowledge with you to check. If you still want the car use any of these things to negotiate the price down by the cost of repair after all you dont want to buy something that will cost you money straight away. Lots of X3 about so don't be afraid to walk away. Hope this helps Dave

The beer sounds like a plan Richard (thinking Juice) Progress better slow at this stage, good news is everything is turning apart from the alternator so step one If all the fluid levels are OK I would remove the belt and spin it up to get oil where it needs to be. Enjoy your cold thinking juice Dave

Hi Richard Oh Oh!! Fingers crossed it's something simple like the Voltage regulator or rodent damage. I would check the loom in the area for signs of "munching" if the loom looks OK then just pull the plug on the alternator and test again if no smoke then you have it narrowed down. The Voltage regulator is a simple change (easier with the alternator on the bench) Tip 1. A good addition to the tool box is a younger bendier assistant (i have two sons for that) Tip 2. Are you aware of Tim Meeks web site he is an 840 nut in the nicest way. check out www.meeknet.co.uk Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum Ouch, not a good start to BMW ownership Firstly are you certain it is the turbo? Boost pressure can be affected by several things. Who diagnosed the Turbo? I would get the codes read by some one with a BMW Specific diagnostic suite. Maybe a member near you or a BMW specialist near you.You could even buy one yourself and not horrendously expensive around £150 tops there are many out there. As for DIY a Turbo replacement (if that is what it is) is well within a reasonable Home mechanics capability. Turbo's are available these days at sensible prices £200 upwards just remember to factor in Fluids and Gaskets that may not be with the cheaper options. Take a look at www.newtis.info This is a BMW Technical Information site that BMW Dealers use for service/replacement and repair Then to ensure you have the correct parts use www.realoem.com This is a BMW online Parts Site put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search for the part. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ash Welcome to the Forum What colour smoke ? You really need someone with a BMW specific scanner, the codes your seeing are generic so may be a symptom caused by the fault rather than the fault. I would check www.newtis.info It is a BMW Technical Information site Dealers use this site for repair and replacement information so you should be able to get test information for sensors etc. 3F01 Boost Pressure Sensor signal to DDE Is it the sensor or a split in the intercooler or pipe work ?? 3E25 Indicates an Inter cooler issue 3FF1 Indicates either a MAF problem or the inlet manifold could be blocked/coked up 3F03 Indicates aBoost Pressure sensor issue So as you can see 3F01, 03, 25 could be inter linked or 3FF1 could be the cause?? You could spend a lot of hard earned replacing sensors pipework etc The P0326, 27 codes are knock sensor codes. Symptom ? The P3624 could be a vacuum leak or a massive air leak forward of the DPF or a faulty IMRC actuator/sensor Or you could try the old disconnect the Battery for 30mins to rest everything and se what faults return Hope this helps Dave

Morning Richard How is the 840 in your possession yet? Another website is www.meeknet.co.uk Tim Meek is a genuine enthusiast and has a site dedicated to the 840 Oh your wild guss was correct 😁 Dave

Hi Serge Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com if the part numbers match you should be OK though mounting plates may be different. My guess would be should be OK as long as amp out put is the same Dave

Morning Dan There are the brake wear sensors easy to find as the wire leads to the brake caliper and the ABS sensor that goes behind the Brake at the hub after cleaning and re-seating try disconnecting the battery (neg first) and leaving it for half an hour then reconnect the battery. Even Dealers use this as a simple re-set procedure. Dave

Morning Brian Last question first I use BMW 1.4.0 it's cheap and reliable and does everything I need. I have had mine on an old lap top that I keep in the garage for 15+ years. Once a month when I am giving the old girl her check up I run a scan and tidy any issues. When using these programs remember that many things trigger DTC/Error codes from voltage spikes (low/high) to poor connections through damp etc (especially older models) So I scan identify any codes clear them and then re-scan only the ones which come back if any eed my attention. Google BMW 1.4.0 diagnostic for more information should cost you about £15 I would guess look for a UK supplier to avoid hassle would be my advice. Now your mirrors. I am confused here why do you need to keep adjusting them ? do they move when you turn off and lock the car ? I honestly can't remember when I last touched mine and we have 3 active keys 1. Mine 2. My wife 3. Spare. The door mirrors and seat settings are stored in the seat memory, when my key is used to open the car all settings steering wheel, seat position and door mirrors adjust to my setting. If my Wifes key is used her settings are applied. The X5 has been like this for the last 5 years at least. the only mirror I touch is the interior if shorty has driven it. When you turn off your BMW it will take at least 15min for your car to shut down and go to sleep, so sitting in the car turning the ignition on and off the car never rests/goes to sleep. If your car is an Auto beside the gear selector is a small indicator light lock your car and after about 15 mins it should go out your car is asleep. Dave

Thanks 4 Wei's and a Black Pointer 3 guess's which ones the re-home

Morning Ashley Welcome to the Forum I take it the engine and Battery are from your accident damaged X5? Are the donor car and the receiving car same Model/Year? For example X5 4.4 2004/5 into a 2004/5 X5 4.4? Who did the engine swap? Did they move the DME/DDE from the old car or are they the ones in the new car? 2004/5 models shouldn't need battery registration. So assuming the donor and receiver are the same model/year have you checked the simple stuff like engine earth and all sensors connected? When the battery is connected are you getting lights on the dash? Basically the engine as a unit doesnt know where it is so providing the sensors are OK and connected correctly the DME/DDE can receive signals, so check all connections including engine earth and starter motor. Are the fuel pumps running ? check fuel delivery at the injectors? You really need a BMW Specific Diagnostic Program to know what is going on. Dave

Morning Dan Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then check the brake section you will find a small exploded drawing that will help you identify the sensor and where it is. You also may need someone with a BMW specific diagnostic tool a quick scan will confirm if it is a sensor, clear the fault and see if it returns. Dave

Morning Brian Okay the switch is the same function just not in the Window control unit, the fact that the mirrors work albeit for a short period after a reset would make me think that there is a faulty connection somewhere that opens with heat or vibration or both Has the car been on a diagnostic for a code read? have any fault codes been reset? A BMW specific code reader should pin point the issue, (as an example mine showed "broken Wire Drivers Door Mirror) if not then I would start at the mirror checking all connections and cleaning them with contact cleaner (not WD40) don't forget the plugs in the doors and at the LCM. When I had some weird electrical behaviour with the X5 I traced it to one of the common earth points (like a comb) in the boot, once removed and cleaned I refitted it with some contact paste (used to seat CPU's in computers) probably overkill but no issues since. Dave

Morning ED The big issue tends to be with cars that (like mine) come with a staggered set up ie: wider rear wheels and people fit tyres from different manufacturers to the front and rear. While the sizes may be correct the difference in rolling radius can be scary. If you stick to the better known Brands and change al 4 it avoids issues. Cars with a square set up (same size front and back) tend to suffer less but it's worth being aware. BMW have always had a list of recommended tyre suppliers as do Mecedes and others to avoid the issues. My experience and observation is that with the older cars where owners try to run them on a shoe string and buy cheap tyres, rolling radius can be wildly out and cause damage to the transmission. I had a lad from Brighton who owns a 3.0d X5 stop me in a petrol station and tell me what Cr**p 4x4 system BMW had when I asked him what was the problem he had broken 2 transfer boxes?? We moved to the car park to look at his car, he was running 20" staggered wheels same as mine sizes looked right but rears were a Chinese or some thing brand and nearly new fronts Dunlops. Apparently the garage he uses had changed the rear tyres due to wear on the inner edges, I put a chalk mark on the bottom of the front and rear tyres and we rolled his car forward 3 revolutions rear tyre chalk mark was at the bottom front was about 75 mm different in just 3 revolutions. His garage were happy to change/repair transfer boxes but seemed unaware of the cause, he contacted me later to say he had brought Dunlops for the rear and the issue had gone. Dave

Morning Richard I use BMW 1.4.0 loaded onto an old laptop that I keep just for garage work. The program is pretty comprehensive easy to set up and use and is cheap. There are others like INSTA/INPA which are dealer level but can be a faf to set up. I don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com and www.newtis.info First is an online BMW Parts Web Site put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model so you know you have the right parts. Second is a BMW Technical Information site used by the Dealer network for service and repair information (remember the Dealer has Tech's who are younger than your car 😁) search your madel or use the Vin again. Good Luck fingers crossed Dave

Hi Ed Martin our sons friend thinks he is driving a racing car his right foot is made of lead?? So if he is in the 40's close to 50 should be achievable for a normal mortal. Dave PS Just text our son and the average for Martin is 44.7 since its last service 2300 miles ago mostly town with some dual carriageway work