Greydog

Sounds like you will have the Bells and Whistles then Gav My brother Inlaw found the Display Key just to bulky when he had his Mobile, Wallet and Keys that lot with the Display Key was a pocket buster. Hope you really enjoy your new motor when you get it. Dave

So we are lead to believe, that E10 will be fine in all engines Mark But then again when Unleaded was introduced it took over a year and many claims before the Fuel Companies decided it wasn't good for engines designed to run leaded fuel?? So they had to keep leaded at the pumps for quite a few years. Me I will put Octane booster in every few tanks 😁 Dave

Morning Marie Hope you got Home safe and sound If you didn't recovery would have been my advice, could be something at the front, belt pulley etc. Or a hose or seal on the turbo Oh and Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Andrew If you can email the information send a PM and I will give you my email address if that doesn't work write it down here in the order its shows and post it. I will see if I can make sense of it. Dave

Morning Gav Welcome to the Forum Great choice of car Enjoy Do you have a large key device (about the same size as an old Motorola Flip phone) that is the display key. My Brother Inlaw has it with his 535d Touring his description is a cool show off toy that stays in the draw at home due to it being so bulky he has the BMW App on his phone that gives just about the same access I think the remote parking is about the only thing that he needs the Display Key for, all showy stuff in reality used once or twice. Check the Idrive Screen for the Display Key app, If it's there but you don't have the key !!! Lord knows what BMW charge for a new Display key or what the Faff would be if it has to registered to your chassis. Dave

Morning David Don't just stick with your local Dealer prices will vary across the Dealer Network I have always found Cotswold BMW really competitive and they do Mail Order. Dave

Morning Kieron Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Search the sections for the part/part number you want then use the Internet to source what you need. I haven't tried to repair an Amp but I am sure many have if you have the right equipment. There is a Company called Cartronix who are well known (don't know costs) plus I am sure others like ECU Testing and BBA Reman who may help or just replace with a reclaimed part seen them for £50/£60 on ebay. Good hunting Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Terrific car ENJOY First go to www.realoem.com it's an online BMW Parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the relevant section there are small exploded drawings to help identify where stuff fits once you have the Part Number then try your friendly BMW Dealer (don't stick with just one prices vary) also check the Internet and the specialist BMW dismantlers. Dave

Hi Mark Have you tried BMW UK they have a Classic's Register give them your Vin they can run it and give you the full run down Dave

Morning GB This gets dafter As far as I can ascertain if you are in "Ecopro" power to the heated mirrors, demisters, seats is reduced with screens taking priority. In Comfort mode it seems normal service is resumed !! Now for the really Daft bit apparently if your wipers are on the mirrors will demist !!! Seems this debate has been rumbling along for ages with i3 owners Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum If your car is a genuine manual 330ci M Clubsport it is indeed rare as the "Howmanyleft" web site shows 6 registered for the road and 1 sorn. Auto's show 143 licensed and 57 sorn. The same site shows Registrations for Autos beginning in 2002 while Manual Registrations don't begin until 2005 with 3 Registrations Unforunately the site shows the 330ci Clubsport with currently 363 Licensed and 158 Sorn. So if yours is 2003 it appears to indicate it is a Clubsport still rare just not as rare as the M Clubsport version, damn tasty motor all the same. My own E53 X5 4.6is was only produced for sale in the UK for 2 years with peak registrations at 840 odd and around 200 odd left, difficult to tell now as the site lumps the 4.6 and 4.8is models together, it's a keeper though. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Andy I would first block the Vac line to the solenoid, that way if other control need a confirmation signal from the swirl flap solenoid then they still get it. If all runs OK and your back to "normal" no faults or lights, you have a choice unplug the solenoid if it has no effect remove it or just leave it where it is. Dave

Morning Johno Welcome to the Forum That seems low my Brother Inlaw has a 535d Touring his is ECU tuned and he does have a heavy right foot, he still manages 30+ local and into the 40's on a journey. Dave

Holy Moly Just get well soon Stu Dave

Morning Andy Whoop Whoop that sounds logical, sadly because the early BMW swirl flap system was (only one word really) Rubbish and many vars were wrecked by swirl flaps being ingested many owners removed the swirl flaps themselves. Unfortunately some of those owners were clumsy oafs, you appear to have the evidence As for senior moments we are the same age !! I just blame mine on the alcohol 😂🤣 Dave

There will be a test later so sharpen your pencil 🤣 If you want a really long list I could send you the full Fault code list If it was new then it should be working OK my bet would be it isn't being activated Dave

Morning Andy When you fitted your "new" pressure regulator was it new (in the box) or used ? Here is a list hope it helps BMW Terms Acronyms and Abbreviations.odt

Hi Ryan I have read of upgrades by Denison (good kit) which are pretty much plug and play I have also seen plenty of upgrade Video's for Android stuff (not watched them) So I guess it will need a bit of research and watch a few Vid's before making a decision Dave

Morning Nic First the Sale Of Goods Act isn't time ltd A lot of Dealers will provide a "Warranty" (often included in the price so you probably paid for it) it is an insurance that protects them as much as you. Under the sale of Goods Act they have a responsibility to provide goods "suitable for purpose" as your issues began soon after sale they clearly haven't. However your Fault Codes Often fault codes are linked, they are also often a symptom not the cause. 452 Particulate Filter System The Particulate filter has 2 temperature sensors and an O2 sensor mounted on it I would get them checked if you cant DIY 4B1C Fuel Filter Heating Activation There was a Recall by BMW for this issue make sure yours has been done 4530 Charge Air Pressure Control Small Turbo Control Deviation Check the vacuum lines and actuator also good old WD40 on the turbo actuator to make sure it moves freely. 447B Oxygen Sensor If your O2 sensor has become sooted up and failed the first fault could be linked I would put pressure back on the Dealer the least you may get is them sharing cost (though I would push for more) Good Luck Dave

If there is no Vacuum you will have awful brakes? Press the pedal then start the engine you should feel a difference in pedal effort. Where are you checking vacuum? If it is at the EGR then there are several parameters that the DDE needs to see from various sensors before it sends a signal to the pressure regulator With my sons Toyota the Soot was so hard even after soaking we had to use a screw driver and a hammer to chip it away amazing how much crud was there and how hard it was. Once we cleaned it out we soaked it in petrol and cleaned it gain and checked it worked freely. We also cleaned the inlet as it dawned on me it was as bad as the EGR Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First your pictures 1. When you say "Hook up a Battery and the gauges are on" what exactly happens? do the needles move ? are the gauges lit up ? 2.Have you scraped any of the cru away to see what it is ? only ever seen something similar years ago on an old Rover P5 the inspection plate at the bottom of the bell housing was missing, all the mud and crud thrown up was picked up by the fly wheel and sprayed around the bell housing. 3. Check all electrical connections, start with engine earth straps, under bonnet charging points, main fuse box and relays, power to the fuel pump, power to the starter motor and solenoid. Don't just check them clean them as well. As it's been sitting I would turn it over by hand first, then check the oil and filter (any signs of water) If all good check fuel is getting into the fuel rail then pull the spark plugs and check there is a spark. with the plugs out spin the engine to get oil pressure (oil light goes out) Then if all good plugs in coil packs on and give it a whirl. If it fires up and runs get it up to temp and check carefully for leaks, if no leaks then you have a choice to make (1) If I were going to keep it I would start at the back and work my way forward refurbishing all the essentials Brakes, Suspension (Checking for rust). At the front Brakes, Suspension and Steering if all good full service all oils and filters and enjoy. Great Find Enjoy Dave PS. If you aren't aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the relevant sections it will give part numbers (if you need parts) and small exploded drawings to help see how stuff fits. If you haven't already get a good Diagnostic reader BMW specific would be best plus a good multi meter. (BMW love multiple earth points make sure they are clean and mounted securely)

Morning Andy Look at iCarsoft scanners V1 or 2 if your put off Foxwell (I have no personal experience of either as I use laptop based software) If you haven't already, take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model the look in the exhaust section (small Drawings should help) Look for a drawing of the DPF on top of the DPF you should see 3 sensors in a line, a temperature sensor, an O2 sensor and another temperature sensor. If you have an issue with the O2 sensor or either of the temperature sensors you will det an EML light. The engine will run rich which will cause EGR issues. My bet is that it is an issue with one of these when looking at the drawing scroll down to the part number section so if you have to purchase you get the right one in the right place. Google multi meter tests there are probably video's to help. Dave

Morning Noname Check www.realoem.com Some will have a sticker on the transmission advising which type, all the oils you list are well known good brands so if they show compatibility with your trans and diff you should be OK The auto transmissions I would stick with ZF Longlife I believe the 6 speed is ZF also Dave

Morning Gus When a car is braking all the weight is transferred forward so normally front discs are doing 70% + of the work so are bigger and thicker than the rears. You can check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then check the Brake section it should give all sizes. Dave

Morning Tayla Welcome to the Forum When you say a car symbol does it look like a car viewed from above? or a car sideways on on a post? First have you checked your hand book (if there isn't one with the car check on line) I believe if it the top view it is part of the cars check system if a door is open or bulb out that will be illuminated in red, if everything is OK it will check and go out. If it looks like a little car on a post it is the service indicator if it is red there is an issue so check the handbook. Hope this helps Dave