Greydog

Morning Rob Welcome to the Forum My brother inlaw has rum a number of 530d engine variant's he is currently on his 5th a 540 xdrive, basically the same engine you have in all of them. His cars are brought new and all have exceeded 200k miles before being traded in for the next one all have been ECU tuned as he to travels a lot in Europe for business and likes to scare the odd Porsche driver. His cars are all Dealer serviced to maintain history warranty etc, but neither of us agree with modern extended service schedules so we carry out interim services oil filters every 5/6k don't forget the gearbox make sure that is serviced to ZF schedule fluid and filters and you should be fine. The rest is normal wear and tear stuff suspension bushes, brakes, tyres etc. His early cars had issues with swirl flaps an a few EGR problems which we fixed, but the last 535d covered over 200k without issue latest car has just passed 70k. Dave

Morning Ronald Welcome to the Forum Can you update the carplay app in the car? I would talk to the dealer ask if there is an update available? You seem to have tried everything on the other side Dave

As Stu says Welcome to the Forum

Morning Linfsey When you say "skipping" I take it you mean jerking? First are the tyres matched and correct sizes front and rear. Transfer case issues are normally caused by wrong or mismatched tyres . Fitting a new or reconditioned Transfer case won't fix the problem, if the tyres are wrong you will just end up with another damaged transfer case. I would put a chalk mark at the bottom of each tyre roll the car forward one revolution of one tyre (chalk mark back at the bottom) all the others should be in the same position. If there is even a small variation front to rear over a distance it will wind up the transmission and damage the transfer box. The transfer box is not a differential so it can't cope with the front and rear covering different distances. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Terry I take it by the diagnostics carried out that all the obvious have been checked, Fuel pump (tick) Power relay ? Engine bay fuses ? Fuel pump controller ? My guess would be the fuel pump controller in the boot or under the rear seat depending on the model you have. A friend of one of our sons has a 120d and has had this issue twice. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Lee Welcome to the Forum Nice car By the way you are quoting an OBD adaptor and an App I assume you have been considering Carly for BMW? I have heard mixed reports of Carly (tried an early version my self) some like it others find it doesn't do all they need. Personally I would get a copy of ISTA/INPA and lead this will give Dealer level access, currently you can buy a copy with lead for around £100 mounted on a laptop for around £150 (well known Auction site just make sure the seller is UK based) I have also read good things about iCarsoft just make sure it is capable of communication with later models such as yours. The ISTA software will let you do everything you want to do and a lot more for less than the price of a diagnostic session at a Dealer Hope this is helpful

Our CCTV didn't clearly show their faces and the car they turned up in was just out of shot so according to the Police so wasn't of any use? Seems they have to look at the camera and smile !! Second attempt they were called at the time (just after midnight) a car turned up after eight in the morning ??? When they returned CCTV showed they were at our front door obviously trying to get a signal from the key with no joy. So take the precautions yourself if they can't see the key on their scanner they they can't open the car, my son uses a crook lock on the steering wheel that also works as even if they are in the car it cant be driven.

Morning David Sadly no matter what manufacturers do to try and protect your investment there are those out there who will try to find away round it. Just about any car that is equipped with "key less" go are vulnerable to this kind of theft. Going back to the early 2000's We had 2 attempts on my Mercedes fortunately they only gain entry not start the car before the dogs let us know they were there, open the door and let 5 dogs loose and they legged it CCTV footage supplied to the Police. Now if they gain entry they clone a key apparently. Mercedes offered a Farady bag to put the key into when not in use, as we had several cars at that time my solution was/is a small box lined with foil covered with cloth that all the keys are dropped into that does the same job. CCTV showed two more visits before they gave up on my car. So if you want to keep your pride and joy safe either buy a Faraday bag or like me line a small wooden box with tin foil then cover the foil with a soft material so key fobs dont get marked and make sure all keys are in the box. Dave

Morning Kelvin Welcome to the Forum Most of the faults will have come through the emergency use of the ABS as the other chassis faults will likely be linked. When was it's last service? What is the Brake Pad condition? Nice car by the way. First try disconnecting the battery for 30mins (a dealer trick) that should re-set everything, while the battery is disconnected test it for voltage anything below 12.5 volts will show either a flat or failing battery. If it's low try charging it fully (overnight minimum) With a fully charged battery reconnect and start the car if there is a genuine fault with the ABS faults will re-occur. If nothing returns it could just be a low voltage glitch or a sticky ABS solenoid as we don't need them that often. As an aside I don't know where you are but in Sussex a lot of cyclists wear the Sky team colours (Black) really useful on a murky morning ?? Good Luck Dave

Morning Kier Welcome to the Forum First is the car loosing coolant? If the answer is Yes then you need to find the leak, a Garage can pressure test the system and do a sniff test in the header tank to check for exhaust or engine gasses. That will tell you if the head gasket is leaking. Check the carpets in the front footwells if coolant has leaked you will feel it and smell it. If the car isn't using/loosing coolant then check the coolant system start with the water pump (is it moving water around the system ? If yes check the additional water pump is it running (put your hand on it it you should feel it) check the connections, if it's running OK. Last is the heater controls inside the car, here you may need some help as it could be a number of things so a diagnostic read would help. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Have you a leak? Or is this after a repair session 😁 I believe CHF were OEM suppliers Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the relevant sections Hope this helps Dave

Morning As Stu says battery condition is a factor that shouldn't be ignored can cause all sorts of spurious codes. As for the box sounds as though you need a ZF specialist who can service the mechatronic unit not just change fluid and filters. They should also be able to fully diagnose the fault if any with the box. Dave

Morning Alex Your antenna is the roof mounted Shark fin type and clearly works. I would suspect a loose connection somewhere in the heated rear window loom/switch circuit, don't forget the earth point. Maybe a suppressor in the power feed ? Dave

Morning Eric First what model/trim level did you buy? After speaking with a neighbour who works for BMW he sent this, " X4 M Sport models and above benefit from a part-digital instrument display, although the crisply-designed analogue set-up in the Sport model is still attractive and easy to read. A full digital display is an option on X4 models and standard on the M40d and M40i." Your Handbook should explain how to switch between the two modes, I am not sure if the "part Digital" display gives what you are expecting. So it seems you may have a part display or no display and the full digital read out was an option Sorry if that's bad news Dave

Ha Ha at least up to Dealer standard Take a look at BMW INPA/ISTA I have seen copies already mounted on a laptop for around £150 which is about 1/2 an hour at a dealer it will allow the same access to all the cars functions as a dealer. It will let you code and change functions as well as diagnose problems Good Luck Dave

I assume your model does have it enabled ?? If not you may need a Dealer or BMW Specialist or someone with a BMW Diagnostic like ISTA/INPA to enable it for you? I guess that you have tried Google and You Tube Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum First are you sure it is from the front? The Rose bush at the rear normally telegraphs it's demise by creaking (bit like my knees in the morning 🤣) Stand outside the car and rock it see what you can hear and where the noise is from. Front suspension on an E70 from memory has a top wishbone (2 bushes and a ball joint) a lower set which is a brake reaction rod and a radius rod again both have bushes and ball joints. Plus the drop links. The Rear suspension also has plenty of bushes all of which will deteriorate with age and use normally between 60 and 80k when they start to get tired. All can be changed or upgraded. If replacing any suspension parts do each side and get a 4 wheel alignment one to save tyre wear. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model then look at the drawings for front and rear axels it will give part numbers so that if buying stuff you get the right part Dave

Morning Eric Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook for settings Dave

Morning All the plastic covers and sensors tend to scare folks off. With a reasonable tool kit you can do probably 50% + of the jobs that may arise. If you are really into your car and DIY then with a few more specialist tools added to your kit you can do pretty much everything a dealer can do (sometimes more) There are lots of "how to's" online (some good some not so good) plus you can get help and advice here Dave

Morning Luis There is an internal harness in the transmission plus the external harness. Which one is toast ? If it is the external harness between box and EGS then either an Auto Electrician to cut out damaged sections and replace/repair them then use www.realoem (classic section) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Sorry can't help with a mechanic but here in the UK we have a Register of BMW Specialists maybe you have similar there? Or maybe talk with Pelican Parts they may have more local knowledge Dave

If you are going for headers and downpipe remember a missing Cat or DPF is an automatic fail at MOT. Dave

Nice work Aleexandra Dave

Morning Ryan Welcome to the Forum I think it was Carol Shelby who famously said "Speed costs Money how fast can you afford to go" Bearing that in mind my personal approach is think about suspension and brakes as part of the whole package. Take a look at look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then look at the relevant sections I would check the mountings for M sport bumpers and trim against the M sport models as I think there may be some variations. Getting an after market kit to fit well and look the part could be as expensive as all the other mods (but I am sure you know that) One of our sons friends has a 1 series he had a Stainless exhaust fitted with twin outlets by a place in Romford I think cost him around £600 from memory. Good luck and let us know how it is going, most important ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Mark First when the issue was first diagnosed was it by a BMW diagnostic or a Generic OBD reader which gave you a code that said Fuel Pressure sensor ? I suspect the later If there is no or low pressure in the fuel rail a Generic reader will not receive signal from the sensor so assumes it is at fault. However if the fuel pump is failing or the fuel filter is blocked there will be no or low pressure at the fuel rail. I would start at the pump and work forward pump and work forward, there was a known issue with fuel pumps a few years back which allowed metal particles into the fuel lines fouling filters and in extreme cases injectors. If you can't DIY then find a BMW Specialist near you to first work out what the issue is, then fix it properly Dave

Morning Jonathan Welcome to the Forum Swirl flaps are often removed (due to early failures that caused engine damage) the later system is more robust. If you aren't aware use www.realoem.com to get the correct part numbers just put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box. Would it not be cheaper to get the manifold chemically cleaned? I have heard lots of people changing the exhaust manifold for a cast iron one (daft the cast one seems to be cheaper) due to the fabricated one cracking first time I have read someone changing the inlet Dave