Greydog

Hi Welcome to the Forum Time to get a diagnostic scan done Dave

Hi Joseph Don't dismiss fuses there are several controlling the windows If however the fuses are OK ten it could be either the Drivers door switch block or the mechanism Time for some testing Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Not sure about your issue here ? Normally the Oil Filler neck has a couple of slots and the Cap has a couple of Tangs that fit the slots and a seal around it's edge twisting the cap pulls the seal tight making an airtight seal. So do you have a damaged oil filler cap or a damaged filler pipe if it is the oil filler pipe I would question how it happened. My guess would be the rocker cover was dropped. Changing the cap simple, the oil filler pipe will require some stripping off the acoustic covers the pipe is held in place by 2 torx screws I believe so a job that is time consuming rather than difficult. Sorry not aware of any videos or tutorials Dave

Everyday is a school day 😂 Spoke to one of the guys who fitted the same parts he noticed a gap and super glued a rubber flap to cover the gap (he cut it from an old cycle inner tube) His have been in place for almost 18months now with no issues, so I guess it is how often you take them on/off and how careful you are. Glad you had no issues Dave

Welcome to the Forum Charlie Dave

Into the tyre store today where I keep the Winter wheel/tyre set (sounds better than the Shed at the end of the Garden 😅) I realised I still have the spare wheel/tyre for my very first X5 a 2002 car 17"with a Michelin tyre never used or carried as the car was fitted with LPG. It has just sat at the back of the shed. The tyre is still fully inflated and in perfect condition so it confirms the recent compound changes are designed for the benefit of the tyre companies not us. Dave

A £1000 pounds for an EGR 🤣😅🤣 should be more like £80 for a new one with a warranty from one of the Automotive Factors + 2hrs to fit Brave to take on a project like that when you are relying on others to fix it Good Luck your almost there Dave

You could change the headunit for an Android unit they are simple to fit (really Plug and Play) they will give a wide range of choices for programs and Apps all easy to update. It still retains the BMW CiC functions allowing you to switch between the 2. I have an Android unit in my E70 I use Android Auto in the car plus Tom Tom Nav much easier to update than BMW's system, if our daughter borrows it when they are visiting she use's Carplay with her iPhone Do a search cost would be about £400 I would think Dave

Well seems your getting there £250 seems a good price for the drive shafts, personally I would replace the EGR valve but the choice is yours Dave

Morning Omer Welcome to the Forum Check Stu's post on Keys and registration Can you get into the car at all? There should be an emergency release in the boot if you can either drop the seat back or have a ski hatch behind the centre arm rest Last don't know why but your post is in the Classic section and should be in the 5 series section If you cant sort it you need the help of someone who really knows how to use ISTA/INPA a BMW Specialist or a BMW Dealer be warned they will not be cheap Dave

Morning Aaron If I recall the IBS sensor on your car is part of the Battery Negative lead not sure if it can be repaired or if it's simpler to just fit a new one You softy 3 deg isn't cold -3 deg is cold - 5 deg very cold 😅 Dave

I know of 2 people who have brought from Ebay and all fitted OK though I have no idea if it was the same supplier Dave

Morning Peggy Welcome to the Forum 🤣🤣🤣 BMW Dealers have a twisted sense of humour don't they 🤣 Then they will tell you you should have a pair Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list (same as the Dealers use) put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will call up your model search the Light section for the part number for the Headlamp. Once you have it carry out an internet search you should find a replacement for about £200 upwards depending on source, any sensible home mechanic will be capable of changing them over Dave

Morning Aaron Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the sections for what you need Dave

Morning Rudy Another thought in the UK there is an online list of BMW Dismantlers I have used Quarry Motors in Sheffield UK several times maybe an email exchange may help If you end up changing the LCM/FCM you may get a tamper dot against mileage don't worry it is a fairly simple fix Dave

Morning Robin Start with the basics check for any air/vacuum leaks check all engine bay connectors and looms are in good order. Make sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged. You have a Diagnostic tool now is your chance to learn how to use it, Use the internet to decipher Fault codes then apply some logic and you will get there Dave

Morning Steve There is a register of BMW Specialists you can find online so you should have one not to far away (Note doesn't mean they are not as anal as some dealers) The job is within the scope of any reasonable mechanic but is much easier with a ramp to use Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Rudy Welcome to the Forum Not sure where you are in the world, if you are in the UK there are several repairers Try ECU Testing in Nottingham or Cartronix both have Websites Good luck Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Sounds an interesting project I did read an article about swapping EPS into a normal power steering BMW a few years ago. From memory it was fairly painless just requiring some Vin registering (not real coding) to allow the rack to operate with full servotronic function I will try and find if there are any other information Good Luck Dave

Morning Paul I had not considered this before, the winter wheels for my E53 cover around 2k a year and are 4 years old I better check them. My wife's Subaru Outback covers a similar mileage to yourself it just (Oct) sailed through it's MOT with no comments/advisories, worth checking though That takes care of Sunday morning 😂 Dave

Morning Gavin Welcome to the Forum I have seen that Fault code before which is a power management code, in my instance triggered by a parasitic drain. The result was low battery voltage so check the battery voltage before start under the bonnet at the charging points. You should see at least 12.5v on a fully charged battery, anything less could indicate a failing battery or a parasitic drain. Engine running you should see 14+v at the same place An incorrect or unregistered battery can have it's life shortened by incorrect charging. If you have the kit to register the battery you should find it. Good Hunting Dave

Morning Larry OK tyres are good so one major cause of Transfer case issues out of the way. There are many more X3's running staggered wheel sets than you would imagine. Changing the gear set in the servo motor isn't a service unless, you had asked him to do that as well If the Transfer case was serviced you need to make sure the correct Fluid was used and levels are correct. Transfer case should on your car be ATC400 Fluid should be BMW TF 0870 1000ml You need someone with ZF or BMW capable software to carry out the service and recalibration Not trying to teach Granny to suck Eggs here just my experience Dave

First thing is get the bonnet open so you can sort issues As for diagnostics BMW ISTA/INPA is the best but you will need a laptop to mount it on. There are also i-Carsoft,Foxwell and Autologic that will work Dave

Afternoon Larry Welcome to the Forum If all he did was change the gearset there should have been no problems unless it needs recalibration What size wheels and tyres are you running ? Are the tyres fitted the correct sizes and wearing evenly? BMW's with staggered wheel sets (wider rear) need the front rear sets of tyres to be closely matched and preferably the same manufacturer BMW use (Star) marked tyres from nominated suppliers to avoid this problem Dave

Afternoon Adrian Welcome to the Forum The code you have can be a number of things so checking time 1. Is the Battery fully charged and in good order (low Voltage can trigger this) 2. A faulty ECM or connection to the ECM 3. ECM Harness has a fault some connection open or short to earth 4.ECM control module circuit has poor connection (check for corroded connectors or pins) 6. PCM my be the cause it may need replacing or re-flashing 7. Same process as above The fault is triggered when the cars self test systems check each module and the check sum is wrong Get the guy who reset the EWS to check if the PCM is OK as it clearly isn't communicating with the EWS and ECM resulting in Limp Mode Hope this helps not hinders Dave