Greydog

Morning Andrea Remember the original post is 2 years old so the poster may have moved on. Also not sure if you need to check your model F25 is second generation X3 E71 is X6 Dave

Morning Roy Welcome to the Forum Looks really sweet only one thing to say ENJOY Dave

Save your pennies 😅

Hi George As with most stuff there are a lot of cheap copies out there stay away from them as you will get little or no support if it doesn't work. Just took a quick look at Ebay there is a Laptop with the software already loaded and the correct ODB cables for £185 looks OK to me. If your pretty good with software you can buy the software and leads for less but it sometimes can be fiddly setting it up. Google should be able to help you with test parameters for the sensor, check the inlet side for air/vacuum leaks. A split hose or Vac line can often fool people into swapping sensors. Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum Before replacing parts check the loom to the NOX sensor and its connectors make sure continuity is there (even with a wiggle) clean the connectors and pins (good Electrical contact cleaner ) if the fault persists then a diagnostic scan is needed. Remember a fault code is often the symptom not always the cause. The very best Diagnostic is BMW ISTA/INPA this will give Dealer level access and has Work shop and technical information. There are now several others by Foxwell or iCarsoft so really it is what your comfortable spending. Use www.realoem.com if you are not aware is a BMW online Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model, then search the sections for what you want the small exploded drawings will help in locating where stuff fits. ENJOY Your Beemer good luck with sorting the rough running Dave

Answered else where ?

Morning Simon Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the sections Trim etc for what you want. Once you have part numbers search using the part number on Google for suppliers and costs, don't forget BMW your laocalm Dealer is often not as dear as people assume. Dave

Morning Mallory The best test is sit in there while being driven the Li should have around 5" more leg room. If space is your thing try a MB R class I have a friend who has one as they were designed for the American market rear seats are able to cope with, er Ample American cousins. Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Ralph Welcome to the Forum Not sure what the unit is but looks like it needs checking and replacing a diagnostic scan wouldn't go amiss to see if any thing else needs attention Dave

Hi Luke As the great Carol Shelby once said " Speed costs money, How fast can you afford to go " To have it done properly would need at the least DPF delete programming at best the delete plus an ECU remap. Don't forget suspension steering and brakes, not good if you have loads of power and all it achieves is a low 0 to impact time because you cant stop in time 😉 Or save your pennies and swap the car for a 330d a friend of one of our sons runs a 330d touring with uprated suspension and brakes it has a dyno tested 360whp Good Luck Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Luke Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then look at the exhaust section it will tell you exactly what is fitted to your car. Now your midlife crisis !! Is It more power? Or more noise 😁 there are lots of other ways to achieve them. A DPF or Cat delete (knock through) can end in an MOT fail Dave

Morning Devin I believe if you change the ECU you will need matching EWS Drivers door lock Ignition barrel and Keys so quite a bit of work. Much better to get your ECU tested then repaired if you can or if it even needs it. So back to your original post P0102 = Mass Air Flow sensor Fault --- Have you tested the Mass Air Flow sensor P1417 = A throttle Harness issue --- Have you checked the harness and connectors for continuity P1553 = Is a Vanos Code when was the car serviced --- After your rebuild have you tested the Vanos solenoids P110D = Another Throttle position sensor issue --- Has the Throttle Body been tested P2120 + Throttle Position Sensor (accelerator pedal} --- Has it been tested or changed I would start with testing, checking or changing to get rid of the fault codes Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your Beemer It is a very straight forward process with a lot of choice of screens available. There are several How Too Videos as well. I fitted an Android Screen in my X5 when the OEM screen started to malfunction it gives Carplay and Android Auto plus of course all the App functions you want. While retaining all the OEM functions Dave

Hi Devin Welcome to the Forum The codes you show are Generic codes P0102 = Mass AirFlow sensor Fault P1417 = A throttle Harness issue P1553 = Is a Vanos Code when was the car serviced P110D = Another Throttle position sensor issue P2120 + Throttle Position Sensor (accelerator pedal} I would start with a careful check of the engine bay harness (check if any little critters have been visiting) also check the Earth points Good luck Dave

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum Have you checked the Brake Reaction struts if the bushes are wearing that can cause vibration when slowing How many miles has the car covered I have seen bushes on the way out at around 60 to 70k Dave

Ouch !! BMW are getting very cheeky as apparently in the USA there are no subscriptions for Connected Drive Spoke with my brother inlaw apparently he no longer uses Connected drive as he felt it offered so little value for money. With my X5 I changed the screen to an Android based unit so I have Android Mirroring for my phone and my wife has Car Play if she wants it when she drives the X5. Who needs Alexa in the car anyway 😂 May be if enough rebel BMW will relent Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum BMW advise careful inspection of the alternator to determine the type and supplier meaning they used several suppliers ? not helpful If you are not aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. If you double click the alternator part number it will give a list of alternate models it was used on that may help in sourcing parts. Denso are common on Nissan, Toyota, Honda and Subaru so I would have thought that someone in SA would have rebuilt a few. Have you tried Denso Direct ? Or a replacement from a specialist Dismantler there are several in the UK. Another possibility could be a specialist repair company like ECU Testing or Cartronix (both UK) that rebuild stuff. Good Luck Dave

Hi Ian I am not a connected drive user but my brother inlaw has it in his 5 series, as I understand when the car is new you get 3 months free then through the connected drive store you can purchase the functions you want to continue to use. I changed my screen to an Android unit and use Android mirroring Good luck and enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Ian Is the Connected Drive subscription is up to date ? Next as Matt has said make sure the car can get a clear signal. Dave

If your paying for the work I would say that is a fair price but get references and always remeber the old saying "If you think Professional is expensive wait until you have to pay for Amateur" Good luck with the work and remember to run it in with care Dave

Morning Rick Welcome to the Forum Well some one has to pay for the free coffee 😅 At the bottom of this issue is the fact that BMW do not repair anything? They replace components at their client/customers expense (they are not alone in this approach). If examined your ECU will have a corroded pin or a dry joint or two due to the failure they also want to change any component that communicates through the ECU like your ISM. Early cars used to suffer FCM (footwell control module) failures BMW's answer New FCM and it can only be done by BMW as it has to be programmed to the car/chassis. There is no "programming" as such it is registering the module to the chassis to avoid getting a "tamper dot" beside the mileage figure. As you have already seen it isn't that hard to do if you have the right tools. First source a matching set of ECU and ISM (used to be ECU and EWS) from a BMW Dismantler use www.realoem.com to get the correct part numbers for your model. Also buy a copy of BMW ISTA/INPA (preferred) diagnostic suit or a good BMW capable diagnostic that will allow program/registration changes. With ISTA/INPA (the one I use) you can interrogate individual modules so first make a note of any information you can take from your existing ECU/ISM modules Serial numbers/chassis/ Vin numbers and mileage, BMW store mileage in 2 or 3 places/modules and they need to match (anti theft) Then it is a case of fitting the replacement parts and editing the Chassis information and mileage. Remember BMW do not make these parts they buy them in and rely on the fact that the vast majority of customers are frightened to even lift the Bonnet (oops Hood) educated to only respond to instructions on the cars screen 🤣 Once you have the diagnostics there is so much more you can learn about your car ISTA is complete with TIS (technical information system) and WIS (Workshop information system) Good Luck Dave

Morning Ashley Welcome to the Forum OUCH !! what happened ? If you talk to a BMW main Dealer they will be talking about New Engine (they dont repair anything just replace stuff. You will get the same from some BMW specialists. A rebuild using genuine parts can be costly depending on what is replaced, when I rebuilt my 4.6is engine parts alone came to £3k (OK it is Alpina based and all parts were through BMW) if I had paid a garage I guess the bill would have been about £6k with labour So how much are you able/capable of doing yourself As for sourcing an engine there are a few BMW specialist dismantlers/recyclers near Manchester (google will help) there is also a register of BMW Specialists talk to a few of them to test what hourly rates would be involved if you need their help. I would guess that a replacement would be between £1500 and £3 or 4000 depending on what's included. Don't just buy an engine and put it in budget for sensible things to be replaced such as. Timing chain guides and tensioners oil pump and drive water pump (electric on your car and a BEECH of a job with the engine in the car) Also which engine single or twin turbo as you may also need the DME Good Luck Dave

Oh dear "return the car" that doesn't sound good what's wrong? I thought all Idrive after 2015/16 were set up for car play has she gone through the media set up steps? Or maybe she won't bother if she is trying to return it? Dave

Hi Micky Welcome to the Forum If not there are loads on the usual Auction Sites I have an Erisin android unit in my E70 just plug and play Dave