Greydog

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I am with Mark here I use silicon spray at least once a year. I drop the window down and spray the window runners then spray onto a cloth to clean rubbers and seals to avoid overspray on paintwork. I also use it on suspension rubber parts whether it extends their life ? who knows but it keeps them looking clean and tidy must help at MOT time. Good Luck Dave

Morning Chris In Europe I believe ATE and Teves are mainly suppliers of ABS components so as long as they are working with no lights you should be OK 😁 Pads and Disc's I have always used Brembo brake parts on my cars but I have fitted other aftermarket parts for friends and family without any issues When you found the 2 part numbers on Realoem were they for for front and rear or both front? As there may be an M-sport version or HD brake version often measuring the disc is the best way Dave

I use stuff from Chemical Guys brought through Ebay Interior and Exterior but any good branded products will do to be fair. Just 20years of using it on many cars Enjoy Dave

Morning Steve Morning Stu Welcome to the Forum Steve Go to www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the cars Vin into the search box it will bring up the exact model so then you will know for sure E46 or E90 I believe the engine is the same in both models N46 but due to emissions changes the Lambda sensors are different a look at the exhaust system may give some clues if you know what your looking for. If not stick with realoem then order using the part number that way you will get the correct ones for your car Good Luck Dave

Plus 1 for Stu's diagnosis also check the ride height sensors The suspension is self levelling under load the ride height has a +/- tolerance of 10mm From your description the suspension is either leaking or the control is draining the supply through the compressor (it has an exhaust) Once at ride height with no leaks the suspension compressor should be rarely heard, if there is a heavy load in the boot it should pump up to level the ride when the load is reduced the exhaust allows air out to maintain ride height/quality. The airbag/spring with age can become porous where it rolls on its self in use check it carefully with soapy water it doesn't take much of a leak to let things sag. Changing them is a straight forward DIY job Good Luck Dave

Morning Ron Welcome to the Forum First as far as I am aware the wiper motor is mounted to the scuttle accessed by removing trim in the engine bay. Before going to the complete strip down have you checked (A) the wiper arm mount and nut, and (B) the big nut (22mm or 24mm) that secures the wiper mechanism to the scuttle on that side just in case its loose. My guess is that will be the problem Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the trim or body sections for any help with how it fits Another source would be You-tube there are some good how to's on there though take care some are not so good Good Luck Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum ENJOY Dave PS Cleaned it yet 🤣

Hi Harinder Welcome to the Forum The original post was by a member in Ireland I believe who manufactured his own and a few for other members I don't think they were ever commercially available You could try a direct mail to the original poster but as the post is a few years old he may have moved on Good Luck Dave

To throw a rock into Michael's minefield my 4.4 X5 had self levelling suspension and lights which were halogen originally, the E53 4.6is and my E70 are likewise equipped with self levelling air suspension and light If you have Xenon lamps then you should have high voltage warning stickers clearly visible on them. When I upgraded the 4.4 I used complete Xenon headlight units from Quarry Motors they cam complete with all lamps. I wasn't aware that a lamp change to LED could cause a fail at MOT been lucky there so far good information Michael Dave

Morning Ted Welcome to the Forum If you are determined enough you can achieve anything, the question would be how practical it would be. As I understand it Petrol cars need to Euro 4 compliant or better Diesels Euro 6 or better. So if you can find an F70 2007 to 2013 4.8 petrol it will (or should be) ULEZ compliant. The Diesels I am not so sure as I have a couple of acquaintances who's F70's have been shown as none compliant. As a broad stroke 2015 or later for Diesel So back to your question if you upgraded the engine, emissions controls and probably a whole load of stuff I haven't thought of. Then took on the battle with TFL to get the car accepted as emissions compliant? At the moment they work on Registration/Year of Manufacture not actual emission output. I think cost would outweigh the cars value making it cheaper to trade it for something compliant. If you really want to stay with the F70 then the 4.8 is the answer if you find a low mileage model with the M-tec body kit brilliant. Hope this helps Dave

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Morning Marius Welcome to the Forum Do an internet search for Android Head units for your car I changed my E70 to an Erisin Android unit a few years ago never regretted it The unit I fitted has Android Auto and Apple Carplay built in as well as a better Sat Nav plus you can down load any apps you like. Only the Screen is changed so if your radio CD etc are working great they still will. I got mine from one of the online auction sites A simple DIY upgrade Dave

Morning Tino BMW Chassis ground points are normally Brown however BMW are masters at earth controlled switching which is what I believe your seeing At the Fuel pump relay, key in ignition on. You should have power at Pin 30 (Red/Purple) and also at Pin 86 (Red/White) The DME should supply the Ground on Pin 85 (Black/Purple) The Fuel Pump itself is Pin 87 (White/Blue) Hope this helps Dave

Hells teeth Tino your going to know more about your BMW than the Dealer ever would BMW have a love of Multiple earth points my 4.4 X5 had some issues which I traced finally to the Earth point at the spare wheel well. I remade all earth points using contact paste to make sure all were good. Good luck buddy you must be close now Dave

Hi Michael Welcome to the Forum Have you checked the part number is correct ? A quick look on www.realoem.com will give the part number double click the part number and it will give a list of any alternates The gauze you had on the original was I believe an intake filter the other with the long rubber pipe is exhaust. So I would cut a chunk out of the wife's stockings and fix it in place with an elastic band to replicate the original filter Dave

The one I changed worked straight away, no lights on the dash I ran a scan just to be sure and cleared all fault codes just in case Dave

Just talked to a friend who sent me this USING ISTA WITH USB K+D-CAN CABLE (Example using Com Port 9) Plug your K+D-CAN cable and install drivers. For FTDI based cables use latest drivers. Open “Device Manager”, then USB Serial Port properties, go to “Port Settings” tab and click “Advanced...”. Change port number to “COM9” and latency timer to “1”. Confirm configuration via “OK” button.

Hi Aaron I use ISTA/INPA The d+can cable works up to around 2006/7 models for anything later I use the E+net cable never had an issue Dave

If the cables are loose check the actual brakes handbrake shoes and mechanism is free and working OK. If the brakes are free which from your description it should be (car drivable just Handbrake mechanism not functioning) I have changed 1 on a 5 series and 1 on an X6 basically the same as yours. I released the Bowden cables from the brake shoes the Faff was figuring out how to get the Emergency release cable out which needs the heat shield releasing and bending back by the rear wheel arch, (tip) attach a pull wire to the release wire loop so when you pull it out you have a way to feed it back. Unbolt the unit disconnect the power and fiddle it out. Changing the unit on the X6 took a Saturday morning with tea breaks thrown in. Two choices now you could strip and repair the mechanism (some good Vid's on Youtube) or just replace the mechanism either way your going to get grubby because BMW cunningly place the mechanism underneath the car. For what it's worth the BMW unit seems to be pretty robust unlike some others. Good Luck Dave

Morning Geoff Welcome to the Forum Different request I have seen an Android App available BMW Wiring Diagrams that should help you Normally the Drivers door switch panel is the master working through the FCM or JBE so I would expect one of the thick wires is power up the other power down the three small will switch up switch down and the control wire to isolate the rear switches Good luck with your search Dave

Hi again Aaron I think you need the E-net cable (Yellow one) to communicate properly with your car Dave

Hi Aaron First access the parking brake mechanism under the floor in the boot you can release it from there Then either find the fault or change the unit if your changing the unit make sure you get the correct part number Then reset and clear any fault codes Dave

Hi Richard Welcome to the Forum I know of 2 people who have found Carly shall we say awkward to deal with and not that cheap when subscriptions and connection bits are taken into account. First are you sure it is the sensor? I have seen several that have had connector/loom faults mainly passenger seat (no clue as to why) but cleaning with a good contact cleaner has fixed 3 and some work with the soldering Iron 3 only 1 needed a new sensor fitted Also if you have the correct sensor/seat occupancy mat (check www.realoem.com for the part number) when we had to change the sensor mat all that needed doing was a reset in INPA I did go into NCS and copy all the code just in case but it wasn't needed. It may be simpler/cheaper to find a BMW specialist near by I am in Sussex if you get really stuck Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum If you aren't aware use www.realoem.com to find correct part numbers put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will call up your model I dont think you will get the individual parts that you have stripped your unit to but you will certainly be able to get the correct replacement part You could try talking to someone like ECU Testing in Nottingham they may be able to assist Dave