Greydog

Morning John Welcome to the Forum What makes you so sure it is EGR related ? If it is in fact EGR related the Complete EGR system needs cleaning and checking or replacing to ensure that it is working as it should. The DPF and its sensors also needs checking If the Garage just diagnosed the fault and reset the code it hasn't fixed the issue Dave

Morning Richard Depends where the job is carried out if you can get access to a ramp then not to bad, if you are doing it on the drive then doable but the Faff factor increases Good Luck Dave

Morning If a fuse is blown there is no power flowing so it follows that the unit controlled by that fuse should be dead not drawing power. As your stop start switch is power on a couple of thoughts has the switch been changed? there are a number of interlocks connected to the stop/start switch. There is a Brake switch and a Gear sector switch either of these could be at fault or the loom between So while your checking Good Hunting

Personally I would ask the Turbo specialist if they can rebuild the turbo (which they will normally give a warranty) if they can't rebuild it then buy a Turbo it will very likely come with a warrantee of it's own. My own X5 E70 was brought at a silly low spares or repair price due to Turbo issues I fitted a Rebuilt Turbo (cost £460 with fitting kit) along with a New actuator that lot was purchased with a 2 year Warranty, 4 years and 30k later still going strong So as BMW are unprepared to give you any support why give them your money?? I would move the car to an Independent Garage also get the original Turbo back (why Northampton ?) If you talked to someone like GAP Turbo Chargers in Bristol I am sure they will collect your car fix it for a sensible cost and you will have a Warranted repair that will be supported. That would be my course of action for what it is worth Dave

Sounds like calliper rebuild time

Silver that explains everything 😄 Check the Prop shaft centre bearing plus driveshafts At 95k the box is overdue for a service so worth doing, but I would start with checking the bearings and mountings Dave

Morning Fawad Welcome to the Forum Oh dear bit of a Saga First your questions 1. BMW do not make Turbos they buy them in, as a Company BMW do not repair anything they simply change New part for Old at the Clients expense hence the ££££ cost. As BMW found no sign of leaks to the loom I would challenge the Warranty Company as it is not an Injector fault 2. Garrett are one of the oldest turbo manufacturers ( around since the early 50's) they have been around longer than BMW have been fitting turbos to their cars? So a Garrett Turbo is at least as good (possibly better) as OEM quality depending on it's source. As your Warranty is not in place I would get a good independent to change the turbo or at least its actuator BMW have washed their hands anyway Good Luck Dave

Hi Steve Service time !! Check MAF, Air Filter, Fuel Filter Fuel pressure Good Luck Dave

I believe they clip in check www.realoem.com to be sure Dave

Morning Christopher Can't quite see from the picture if the car has a sun roof, often a blocked sun roof drain lets water inside the car and water and electricity are not a good mix Try to find a replacement at a sensible cost (one of the Auction sites maybe) Also try and find a wiring diagram for your car so yo can trace the connections in case it is another part of the system. Enjoy your Beverages we all need thinking juice 😂

As the fault is showing against the VTG I would start there 4 bolts and a plug and then check the nylon gears. If the tyres you are running are good, previous sets may not have been.so it's possible damage caused then you are suffering with now Dave

Morning Abbie Welcome to the Forum It could be a steering joint or the electric steering rack it's self a good competent Mechanic should be able to diagnose the problem A BMW Dealer will just change parts at your cost £££ my advice would be a good local garage to save your cash. There are several companies who refurbish/repair electric steering racks if it is that. that is the problem. Good Luck Dave

Morning Nick The only way is to strip the engine, engines can seize through Bearing failure, Piston failure, Timing chain failure, the list is lengthy I am afraid. Your engine has the Timing chain at the rear of the engine if I recall so engine out to repair a big job I am afraid Dave

Morning Christopher First a few questions, if you operate the indicators can you hear them or do they just flash? If they flash with no sound your problem may be the FCM (Control Module) one that is failing can cause really weird things as can the JBC (Junction box Control Module) Do you have an onboard Monitor (sat nav/TV) Thinking logically if a fuse blows there is normally a short somewhere in that circuit so a good Multi meter to test continuity on the affected circuit may help you forward. Has any other work been carried out on the car worth checking just in case maybe try unplugging the CD and Radio see if that has an effect If you are looking for parts use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model then search the sections for what you need. This is an online BMW Parts List once you have the correct part number double click it you should see a list of alternate numbers/models it was used on, useful if searching the Auction Sites. Not sure if your car is I-bus or K-bus (2006/07) was a change over year over here if yours is I-bus then PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 is a great diagnostic program all you need is an old laptop to load it onto, it's really user friendly and gives Dealer Level access best part is its very cheap to buy. If yours is K-bus you will need INPA/ISTA again a laptop program but is capable on I-bus and K-bus systems or one of the other diagnostics now available like I-carsoft, Foxwell, Autologic Carly also have a system but it is subscription I believe so carries an ongoing cost. An AmeriCAN can't allow a German car to defeat him 😁

Hi Jason I would start with the Transfer case activation motor quite possibly the Nylon Gear has teeth missing you can buy repair kits or a straight swap motor job Before you do the fix make sure the wheels/tyres are correct or you will end up doing the job again. Dave

Morning Steve From memory it is held by clips so should pull up to remove. Check www.realoem.com to be sure of how it fits Dave

I would say that is a strong possibility check www.realoem.com for the correct part number and see if you can find a replacement Dave

Morning Jason Try looking at "Live Data" BMW 1.4.0 is the user friendly one I still use it on I-bus cars , INPA takes a bit more time to master but is the better tool as it includes TIS and WIS Which section is the fault code showing in ? Dave

From the description you have just given it could be a calliper or hose issue. If you pump the pedal do you get pressure that then fades ? Maybe calliper pistons were pushed back to far and are sticking ? Could be time for a calliper rebuild Dave

Morning Adrian Welcome to the Forum You might ask us what colour the car is ?? Just not enough information, is the car Manual or Auto ? How many miles ? Tyre Condition ? Sorry Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum I have only seen 1 X7 locally you lucky boy (West Sussex) so cant help. All I can say is this last year has been one of the worst for some time for mud and crud on the roads. My X5 has the BMW OEM parts but they are more deflectors than mud flaps so the jet wash has been out a lot over the winter. Dave

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Morning Kenny It depends on what diagnostic reader you have as to whether you see a fault or not. How ever most peoples first warning is the EML, check the intake side for any air/vacuum leaks but as you seem to have 2 confirmations it seems you may have failing Lambda's Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then check the exhaust section to get the part number. Once you have the part number Google it to find the best price. remember BMW don't make sensors they buy them in so most Auto Factors can supply them. Actually changing them is a fairly straight forward process just take your time (youtube videos will help) one on top and one underneath. Cost I would guess at £50 for the top £100 for the long one underneath Dave

Morning Jason Welcome to the Forum What diagnostic are you using? Cause can be Steering angle sensor or DSC control unit even a failing/failed wheel speed sensor Obviously the wheel speed sensor is the simplest fix hopefully that s your issue Dave

Morning James That all seems good so if your still getting a spongy pedal it seems like master cylinder seals are about all that is left, No ballooning/swelling of flexible brake lines Running out of ideas now