Greydog

If the engine is running so is the power steering pump it has no electrical connection. Unless the electrical problem cuts the engine? So as the wipers, washers, horn are all on the steering column I would start there if you are not very DIY skilled you may well need the help of someone who is. The steering wheel and plastic covers need taking off to inspect the slip ring and clock spring at the top of the column to make sure it is in good condition. If it is worn and catching that could be your problem also take time to check the loom and connections to the wiper stalk and clock spring and ignition switch. If something is catching as you turn the wheel that could make you think the power steering is not working. There is also a double Universal joint at the end of the steering column in the engine bay they have been known to stiffen up, sometimes lubrication helps sometimes they need replacing. Dave

OK more questions (1) How long have you had it, how many miles and does it have a service history ? (2) Your power steering is hydraulic so if that is not working it is mechanical so Belt and Fluid need checking as do the connections (3) The electrical issues could be Battery related how old is the battery and is it in good condition? If all problems are electrical you need a Diagnostic scan to quickly find the culprit. I take it all the fuses are OK Dave

Morning Pook Answered in your original post What model X5 E53 do you have ? Dave

Morning Pook Welcome to the Forum As your BMW X5 is 2006 I take it is E53 model ? If it is then it runs on I-bus the original posters car would run K-bus or higher, your power steering should be hydraulic not electric. A fairly common failure with the E53 was the Footwell Control Module a Diagnostic scan should tell for sure. A word of caution BMW will tell you they are the ONLY ones who can change it (if it is the fault) so will many BMW Specialists. They are wrong the auction sites and BMW specialist dismantlers will sell a replacement FCM all it needs is registering to your car to prevent a tamper dot beside your mileage everything will work even with the dot. Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Received the new Actuator late yesterday and this morning been out side taking the old one off and swapping them The original actuator on my door has failed internally the double lock mechanism sticking and not allowing the internal or external handle to work or the physical key. If I operated the lock/unlock on the key or the dash I could here the internals work but the double lock just wouldn't release. As the unit is sealed in a plastic body repair is virtually impossible and pretty much pointless. As I would have to cut open the actuator to get to the internals so failure is mechanical all electrics OK is my guess The replacement I have is Febi and a straight replacement, cost was £64. The door handle Bowden cable was very sticky with grease so I removed the outer handle and mechanism gave everything a good clean re-lube and put it all back All working as it should again just have the job of cleaning all the trim and putting it back together now 😁 Hope This Helps Dave

So little update for anyone suffering the same issue The best way is the big pry bar rested on the internal opening lever and a few good whacks with a mallet. 3rd whack door popped open, Yay New actuator due today so hopefully near the end Dave

Morning Rob By your model I think you may be in the USA All I can say is in the UK we have several companies who are very good at repair and even upgrading CCC units. Are you sure it's the CCC and not the screen ? I am sure there must be some specialist repairers not to far from you try a Google search Dave

I use Castrol Edge or Magnatec fully synthetic Mann Filter changed annually (about 7 or 8k these days) Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Is the Black connector attached to some thing or free ? You need a search for a wiring diagram they could be Bus wires for an amp but that is a guess Sorry not much help Dave

Best Option put them in the Sale section

Answered in your 1st post

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum You were almost there 🤣 What will happen when the car has AI 🤣 Press the start button 3 times (no foot on brake) Then press and hold the left stalk button for about 15 secs to enter service mode. pressing the stalk button should scroll through the different modes. As for the best OBD scanner I have BMW INPA/ISTA which gives Dealer level access (though BMW are trying hard to stop it's use) but there are several others these days iCarsoft, AutoLogigic, Foxwell are a few I have seen in use Good Luck Dave

Welcome to the Forum Very nice Michael but we are a UK based Forum so I doubt you will get much response Good Luck with the Sale Dave

Why oh Why do BMW do these things ?? Door Card. OK everything going OK remove drivers seat to give room to work. Open the window and start at the top to remove the door card only to discover that the BMW Wizards have used panel clips along the sides but at the bottom of the door used 2 x T20 screws in expanding plugs ??? They have become sacrificial and I will replace later Now for the lock/actuator it's self, after a lot of searching I have found 3 methods (1) use a pry bar and hammer to clout the operating lever down wards (2) break the plastic shroud behind the operating lever and prize the exposed gearwheel up to release the double lock (3) as the lock body is plastic just break it up until the door is released What a palaver I cant see why they had to change the lock type from the E53 to the E70/71 certainly there will be no salvage or repair by the look of things. New actuator ordered so the story will go on Dave

Welcome to the Forum Jae ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning First your heater issue you may have to do a bit of research on US models (in case there was a change) but here goes, in the engine bay you should find (your driver side) the Aux water pump in one of the heater hoses. It is an electric pump (plug on top) either unplug it or feel for vibration. The main water pump has a weep hole in the bottom which is often the cause of mystery coolant loss. The only fix is a new pump. Still on the heater check the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) a cause of many flaky electrical issues. Normally fan not turning off or no fan operation check sites like www.pelicanparts.com they are US based and should have information. Parasitic draw. Connect an Ammeter between the live and earth charging point under the bonnet (hood) engine off key out. What current is it drawing now the boring bit pull fuses one at a time to see which one stops/reduces the draw Good Luck Dave

Morning The early 2005/2006 6 speed ZF boxes were abused as BMW at the time were still claiming "sealed for life" what they meant by life is "the end of their Warranty Liability" ZF who make the box advise service (fluid and Filters) at 60 to 100k at service ZF or a good trans specialist would routinely upgrade the software so your issue could well have been a glitch. What a result on the Tyres the same tyre here would be around £150 to £180 per corner plus plus Good Luck with the Beemer Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum You don't need a code but you will need to make sure the battery correct and registered to the car to make sure the charging is correct Dave

Well my E70 has decided to throw a wobbler and not allow me in or out of the drivers door. Just need to get my head around (1) How to get the door card off with the door closed 😁 (2) How to release the lock to get the door open 😁 (3) What caused it? Is it repairable? Or is it a new lock ?? That's my weekend sorted Dave

If I recall most of the early failures I have read about the OEM chains breaking were replaced by BMW so no information really came to the outside world. Particularly after they were mentioned on Angela Ripon's program rogue traders I believe chains were upgraded from around 2010/11 though that may not be correct as I say BMW have played this very close to their chests. The normal things that would snap a chain are poor installation/alignment or over tension. I have never been a fan of extended service intervals changing oil and filters annually (around 5 to 7k in my case) If the chain had been replaced in your engine with a chain that has a joining link, if the link was not fitted correctly is a possibility? But then if the Garage fitted a complete engine they would have no way of knowing what chain was in-place. A really difficult place to be for you and them I think Hopefully they may offer a goodwill gesture

Well done Matey Some times these jobs are fiddly as you have to get your head around reversing the build process (last in first out) Bet it looks great with the new Piano Black trims Dave

Morning Neil Welcome to the Forum BMW OEM equipment was Westfailia or Oris. My own X5 has Westfailia fitted at build. A reputable Company should be able to get the full retrofit kit including the correct interface for rear PDC and Camera Good Luck Enjoy a summer pulling your van Dave

Answered in the first post

Always worth trying also worth trying, as the alternative is finding another part? You could try cleaning all contact areas and reassembling using electrical contact paste Good Luck Dave

Morning Adrian If my old memory is working the first codes are related to the O2 sensors, CF17 would seem to be Drive train related. So when was the trans last serviced? the last PO160 code is again O2 related. I would start the process with a full engine and Trans service and replace the O2 sensors Attached is a full list of BMW OBD codes Good Luck Dave BMW PDF OBD Codes.pdf