Greydog

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Well ? come on did it work?? Dave

Autologic is one of the better clones I will see if I can check ISTA to see what comes up as it has workshop instructions but can't do it until Thursday sorry I don't suppose it would be as simple as 450 the transfer designation? Or did he try that?

Morning Paul Not sure what system he was using But your Gearbox should be GA8HP707 AWD Your Transfer case had 2 around that time ATC 450 and ATC 451 ? Are you sure of the part number I ask as Realoem says 2012 April onwards should be ATC 451 Dave

Morning Lorrie Welcome (almost) to the Forum As a 2021 car it should still have the residue of the BMW Warranty and I assume a full BMW Service history. Carry out the normal checks make sure all the bells and whistles work as they should. Hope it works out Dave

Morning Debs Welcome to the Forum First if the seller used the car as a Courtesy car he is a Trader so can't wriggle out of any responsibility particularly if Faults were reported in a timely manner. Having said that a courtesy car needs to be reliable, faults occur at any time sadly Often fault codes are related so fix the right one and all the others disappear. Looking at your fault codes the bulk are ignition related. So I would start with a compression test if good no head gasket issue, then change spark plugs and Ignition coils (check the loom carefully for any signs of cracking or damage) Test the cam position sensors (Google will help) If it is an ECU fault then companies like ECU Testing are brilliant and normally a 48hr turnaround I guess the real question here is do you want the car? My wife in 2005 suffered with a Frozen shoulder and was finding her beloved Volvo T5 heavy on the steering and causing pain I brought her a Subaru Outback (try one, super light steering) I get the feeling that you are not in love with the Beemer so maybe getting it running and trading it on is the way forward Good Luck Debs Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Spongy brakes are normally a sign of poor maintenance and can be Brake fluid needing changing, Flexible brake pipes in need of changing (ballooning) Servo leaks check the Vacuum lines and non return valve at the servo. Either find a Good Independent or BMW Specialist will be not to far away, there is a Register of BMW Specialists so check the Internet for their locations. If the Brakes have been ignored it is a probability that many other service parts have been as well So many people think an Oil and Filter change is a service !! sadly so do more than a few garages Good Luck with the Project Dave

Hi George So the original owner just listened to the exhaust note 😅 You could use a BMW Vin decoder to get your original build spec As I understand it you need the Amp to take advantage of the full speaker set up with luck the wiring is all there or adding bits to the loom could be a fiddly process. Once the Amp and speakers are there they will need enabling through the diagnostic software Good Luck with your project Dave

Great job Paul If they have INPA/ISTA or one of the other BMW capable systems now available you should be OK Dave

Welcome to the Forum Janet Sorry can't offer much help as UK based Dave

Morning Tarquin Welcome to the Forum (almost) Most cars now have an extra storage compartment under the boot floor these days where the spare used to live. Not sure about your comment about a raised boot floor unless the car had a sliding floor for easy loading Not sure what dogs you have but I have 5 HPR pointers and while I have an X5 my wife has a Subaru Outback and our daughter has a BMW 320d touring. All 5 are fine in the X5 4 are comfortable in the Subaru or the 3 series (The boot is around the same size height in both) Maybe look at a 5 series Touring, good hunting Dave

Morning Wayne Welcome to the Forum You need a diagnostic scan by someone with a BMW capable system Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum Very tasty motor matey First is to establish your starting point, do you have the Basic or High audio set up. Second what do you want to add, which may not be straight forward or inexpensive with the BMW system as it will require some recoding If you are looking to add Carplay or Android auto and Apps there are options one of the easiest is changing the screen for an Android unit, all standard functions remain plus of course all the addionalt apps and phone connectivity Dave

If it has overheated then check the fans are working correctly ( 2 if I recall) 1 either side of the Rad You also have a water control valve in the engine bay (solenoid operated) make sure it's working bleeding the heater matrix will be fun if it's not. I would just change the thermostat anyway as a precaution. If your removing seats and carpets in the past I have puffed talc around windows and door seals then used a hose outside any water tracks show up in the talc really well. So we know what your doing this weekend 😅 Dave

Morning Dirty Welcome to the Forum Not sure what your looking for/expecting here ? All engines will make more noise as they age without reasonable maintenance. However with good/high maintenance they will not be much noisier than when new and 5 series were very quiet executive cars. Or is it the exhaust ? Has someone hacked it about to make it noisy ? Gearstick shake !!! that is just wrong, either all the mounts (engine and gearbox) are shot or the engine is running really badly For your information all the N47 engines are turbo charged, designated M47N in your model As mileage builds on an engine things wear (faster with poor maintenance) hydraulic lifters can clatter, injectors can clatter ancillaries and tensioners wear. All fixable however if it's timing chain on your engine changing that and it's tensioners is often an engine out job. Dave

Check all the roof drains are clear and seals intact. If it is soft top make sure the window seals are all good. Check the drains on the bottom of the doors are clear and the membrane behind the door cards is intact and undamaged. Can't think of anything else Dave

That will do it 🤣 seals are supposed to keep water out not in 🤣 Good find Paul Hope your up and running noq Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Just check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look for what you need probably front axel section. Double click the part number and if the were any alternates it will show a list. Take care as there could be a few ratio choices 3.73-1 3.08-1 The next challenge will be getting your hands on one at a reasonable price BMW tend to only sup[y exchange units at 4 figure sums plus fitting. So check out the specialist Dismantlers Dave

I assume your talking about the gearbox support bracket I have changed mine as the original was really rusty mine took less than an hour to remove and replace. Once all the bolts where out from memory 5 then the long one I put a small jack under the transfer case to take the weight and raise/lower it to help get the long bolt back in when putting it back. Check to make sure you have all the fasteners out there are a couple of Videos on You tube Dave

Hi Have you checked realoem for clues ? With the E70 there is a single fixing on the inner boot unit then it is freed from the seal and pushed towards the boot edge/lip and it unhooks. It took a bit of pressure to get mine to release from the seal, The unit on the wing (on my E70) has 2 mounting studs again it took some pressure to release it from the old seal. I assume yours is a similar arrangement I have since thought maybe use a heat gun to soften the seals ? Maybe Dave

Morning Paul Most of your fault codes are linked to the Transfer case so will probably reset and return if the Transfer fault isn't fixed. My guess (and it is a guess) would be the servo motor didn't like being dunked and is dead. Or the transfer case gears have stripped A complete servo motor is around £80, or a set of nylon gears around £20 as you already have the covers off I would pull the Servo Motor and test it and check the gears Dave

G'day Brandon Welcome to the Forum Even though the chain was changed did they change the tensioner and guides quite probably not. The chain tensioner uses spring tension at cold start and then is oil pressure assisted. After a period of time the spring (as they all do) looses a bit of tension. So I would start with looking at changing the Tensioner. It is buried at the drivers side rear of the engine but not difficult to do there are several videos on the Net to help. Hope this helps Dave

🤣🤣🤣 Wish I could remember that far back 🤣

Morning Craig Check the rear lamp seals and the rubber boot seal then make sure all the floor drains are clear they are meant to be letting water out not keeping it in 😅 As Stu says check all the hoses including the heater feed and control valve. not difficult when you have fixed the leak make sure to fill with the correct coolant/anti-freeze. Check the internet for advice on bleeding the whole system to get rid of airlocks Dave

These days my personal choice Android Auto purely for the Flexibility it gives Dave

Happy Birthday and like most 21 year olds it's never given you a sleepless night 🤣🤣 Enjoy Stu