Greydog

Morning Emma Don't be frightened of the transfer box it is as tough as old boots the common issue is the actuator gear and motor mounted on the side of the Transfer case. Inside it is the actuator gear it is made of a nylon material and the teeth strip. New improved gears are available and your mechanic friend should be able to change it easily, there are several you tube "how to's" that will help. I have just (yesterday, well it was raining) carried out this repair on a friends 2007 E70 He brought the transfer repair kit from Ebay for £18 delivered to remove the actuator clean it up, strip it change to drive gear and replace it took this old bloke 3 hours including coffee and cake stops. Problem fixed no lights all working as it should. The BMW Dealer quoted £1200 for the complete assembly plus Labour plus VAT all in around £2k. All work carried out in my garage at home on ramps. Your mechanic friend must be younger and bendier than me so should be able to do it at least as quickly. Good luck Dave

Morning Jack Welcome to the Forum That looks like the Thermostat housing alright Is, was the thermostat still stuck in the head? If not then someone has had an issue and rather than replace it has binned it ?? Helpful !! not. If you are not aware www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. There are small exploded drawings which may be some help plus you will have correct part numbers for ordering. Another site that may help is www.pelicanparts.com great how to's with pictures. If my old brain hasn't failed me there is also a temperature sensor in the bottom hose. You could possibly tap into that to control your fan. Check fan rotation just in case your fan is pushing hot air from the engine onto the rad not pulling cool air through. Hope this is some help Dave

Morning Emma First how old is the battery ? Get it checked a lot of issues are caused by low or erratic voltages, you should be seeing 12.8 volts ignition off 14 + volts engine running. Your X5 should be charged from the charge points under the bonnet same with jump starting. Never jump or charge directly at the battery. So with either a fully charged battery or a new one in place reset all codes. The 3 Gearbox related codes are TCM, Transfer Box and Gear monitoring so before driving check the Transmission Fluid level (It is quite possible that your X5 has a good service history yet the transmission has never been serviced even though ZF who make it say service every 60 to 80k) This may well resolve the TCM and Gear Monitoring codes. If not a visit to a Transmission specialist will be needed. Your transfer box code, first check the tyres, mismatched tyres will cause damage to the transfer box (this is true of all 4x4 transmissions) when the car is reversed on full lock is there a jumping jerking from the transmission? After it has been driven if you open the drivers window before turning off listen foe a clicking sound ? My guess would be tyre issues have any been changed recently? Check tyre pressures are all correct. Glow plugs not an uncommon fault with all diesels a few years old, not essential if it is starting OK but as winter approaches worth changing all 6 and the Glowplug relay. Steering Angle sensor reset by driving slowly forward turning lock to lock. ABS should reset with the steering angle sensor and fully charged battery. Good advice from Richard. There was a BMW specialist in Oldham who was very active on the Forums a few years ago worth a check on Google The X5 is a great tow car I brought ours to pull a horse trailer after selling our Horse Lorry, it's dragged 2 fat horses all over the place for the last ten years. Including Rivington when our Daughter lived at Blackrod. Let us know how you get on Dave

Fingers crossed they can code the seats in Good Luck let us know the result Dave

Hi Dave The M135i has a timing chain not a belt. The chain is cunningly positioned at the back of the engine I have read that changing just the chain is around £1000 These engines also have a reputation for being noisy due to the direct injection, plenty of go though. Service history is paramount I would say I would do the research though remember these sites generally have posts about issues what tends to be missed is people check how many where sold in that model against the number of issues. Good Luck and Enjoy if you buy Dave

Afternoon Andy Welcome to the Forum Looks really tidy you obviously forgot to list car cleaning as your hobby 🤣 Enjoy Dave

Hi Ray Yesterday I spoke with a friend who is a an Independent BMW Specialist he raised some questions (1) I series only had powered Drivers seats when they were fitted. (2) Was the correct wiring loom used ? Or has power been taken from somewhere else ? He says if retro fitted a powered driver seat should be straight forward. The seat airbags being disconnected while the battery is still connected will trigger the "airbag" light. Heated seats again did the car come with them? Or are they part of the retro fit? I would disconnect the seats and do the research, check the seat electrics are OK Test resistance and continuity in the heaters. DONT mess with the airbags setting one of them off accidentally you don't need. Check the internet for wiring diagrams that may help Good Luck Dave

Morning Ray First thought where was your key fob ? If the unlock button is pushed and held (sat on) windows will open or close if the lock button is held If your in the south at least it was dry overnight. Second thought could this be linked to your seat issue ? Dave

Morning Ray First which car did the powered seats come from? Check realoem.com (if you haven't already) put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box. Were electric adjustment an option for your car? Make sure the seats you have correct for your model. Was the loom correct under the seat? Assuming they are (If I recall some only had electric drivers seat) then depending on the software version your car runs the seat may need coding to your car. Let us know how you get on Dave

Morning Richard My response was aimed at BMW and their Engineers and Marketing guys. They have made some really dumb decisions over the years to list a few, simplex instead of duplex timing chains? Plastic guides? Moving timing chains to the rear of the engine? I know they are not alone this seems to have been a trend but that doesn't make it right. BMW have a loyal following but come on BMW who want's the most powerful tractor in the street !!! If you can make a smooth powerful QUIET diesel do the same with the i35i Dave

I understand the explanation of the noise due to the Direct injection pressure's. However is the noise necessary? The engineer in me challenges the response, to me it's almost as though the BMW engineers consider it OK until customers query it then justify it by saying "direct Injection"? After all DI has been around on diesel motors for years and they have actually got quieter plus Mitsubishi were producing DI petrol engines late 80's So how do Mercedes and Audi/VW achieve a quiet engine that develops the same power ?? Dave

Morning MT Welcome to the Forum My neighbour works for BMW UK and has had one as a Company Car, he tells me it's the Direct Injection injectors and one of the most common queries they get. Time will tell I guess, so probably the Dealers will say "they all do that" my personal feeling as an "old Engineer" is it shouldn't!! The AMG A35 doesn't nor does the Audi A3 both simmilar power output. Dave

Hi Brad Scary some of the BMW Dealers !! First take a look at www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list, put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the relevant sections they all have small exploded drawings so you can see where stuff goes. It also gives price indication which has embarrassed more than one UK dealer. If the car is out of warranty I would be looking for a BMW independent specialist there must be some in the USA in the UK their hourly rates are about one third of Dealer's. Plus most are ex-BMW Tech;s so have all the right knowledge software and tools. Good Luck Dave

Morning Martin I am the wrong man to talk to about economy my V8 averages 19 mpg but with a little concentration and effort 😈 I can get single figures with ease. X1 is the X3 baby brother X5 is the X3 big brother X3 will have 5 doors slightly bigger boot and more range of engines, 2.0 2.5 3.0 petrol and 2.0 3.0 diesel. We have a friend who runs an X3 with the 3.0 diesel very impressive and she see's mid to high 30's around town and into the 40's on the motorway If economy is high on your list the forget the X drive cars as they are permanent AWD not switchable and generally heavier. The X1, X3, X5 have more ground clearance so may be easier to get in and out of than a slinky 3 series Convertable. Engine wise the 4 cylinder N47 Diesel came in 1.6 l 94bhp and 114 bhp (badged 1.8) N47 2.0 Diesel 114 bhp (also badged 1.8 Confusing eh) then several stages of tune from 141 bhp to 215 bhp. Do the research on the timing chain issue as I said earlier it is well documented but cars after 2009/10 seem better. The N57 Diesel is straight six 3.0l and depending on age and variant produce from 200bhp to 370bhp Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum First the sun roof not sure about an answer to this question? There used to be several Companies in the 1960/70's that did sun roofs but haven't heard of any for years. Personally I searched for an X5 without the sun roof as with Air conditioning I never used the ones in previous cars for years. One less thing to go wrong. Engine wise BMW use the N47 diesel in two flavours Single turbo and Twin turbo. The N47 had some well documented timing chain issues but 2009/10 onward's seem engines seem better (no personal experience of these engines as I have a fat V8) Xdrive cars use the twin turbo version with around 200+ hp. X drive is BMW's permanent AWD system first developed in the 1990's so well tried and tested and very reassuring in slippery conditions. In your search don't dismiss the X3 more choice of engines. Talk to your local BMW Dealer and tell them what your looking for also there is a Register of BMW specialists who may be of use. Good luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum Very nice car choice, the engine responds well to tuning I have a Brother Inlaw who has run then for years (on his 4th) in the 5 series. He has run 530 and 535 his current car is a 535d Touring with I am told 350+ HP, all I can confirm is it is seriously quick. There is a company in West London (Uxbridge area I think) that I have read good things about B W Chip Tuning they are BMW specialists, worth a phone call I would think Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Mac33 Welcome to the Forum What a good find the 318 was the real work horse brought by business users so finding a genuine low miler is a good omen. If you aren't aware www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. There are small exploded drawings that help with how stuff fits and all the correct part numbers. Also worth looking at www.pelicanparts.com a USA site so steering wheel on the wrong side but some really great "How To's" with pictures. ENJOY Dave

Hi Steve If you want to do further on electric you must need a longer charging lead 🤣 🤣 They do have some punch out on the road though don't they you must really appreciate knowing you are going where your pointing the car As said earlier ENJOY (watch your license !! Son Inlaw on 9 points same car) Dave

Hi Simon Welcome to the Forum Don't make it intuitive do they?? I take it you don't have the iDrive screen? from what I have read there is a menu sequence in the Radio which lets you select "Phone" then there is a pairing sequence your handbook should help if not try YouTube there are normally how to's on there Good Luck Dave

Morning Gail Welcome to the Forum You need the codes read by someone with BMW specific diagnostics By the way the Jump points are under the bonnet (hood) jumping direct to the battery is not good and may well have caused some issues. Either check or get someone to check all the fuses Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum I have heard and read good things about B W Chiptuning in Uxbridge never used them personally Google them and talk to them Dave

Hi Stu If its Petrol it will have a throttle body assembly with integrated position sensor. If its Diesel it will have the AGR assembly and fuel pressure sensor along with all the associated vacuum lines. Not sure but I think the AGR has a TPS integrated as I am not a diesel driver What ever he should get a diagnostic check to save some pain to his wallet

Hi David As the car has clearly suffered some serious transmission failure at some time there could be diff problems further down the line. If she has the Finance Company on board then rejecting the car is probably the best move as even if the complete transmission was changed her confidence in the car wont be there. Good Luck which ever way you choose to go Dave

Morning Yanai Welcome to the Forum Sounds like a failing throttle body, you need a diagnostic session to confirm exactly what the issue. Dave

Hi Dale Welcome to the Forum I have read of many instances where people have fitted new door carriers that don't last genuine is the way to go. Assuming the carrier is OK then the the door catch actuator is the next part in the chain. Again assuming the cables are fitted and seated correctly Dave