Greydog

Hi Samantha Welcome to the Forum My X5 is fitted with reverse camera and PDC system and my daughter told me "Dad they are a waste of money there is always a thud when your to close" Sadly that isn't a joke bless her. So your problem, the BMW PDC system is fussy but great when it works. You may need the help of a willing assistant depending on how hands on you are but no special tools are needed. On your model all sensors can be got to without removing stuff the fact you don't get a Beep when selecting reverse may need some digging though? do you get warning bongs/beeps if you leave a door open or lights on? If yes that's good news. Next with the use of your willing assistant remove the boot floor spare wheel cover and spare wheel, then udo the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the suspension compressor down and carefully prop it up at the back of the back seat. You will now be looking at the battery, BM54 radio, TV unit (on the right if fitted) look down nearest the back of the car you should see a control unit with 3 plugs on the top Blue White and Black. Question does your car have a tow bar? If it does you should have an extra control unit alongside the main PDC controller this disconnects the rear sensors when the trailer plug is inserted. So sensors front and rear are the same. The simple thing would be a diagnostic scan which would identify which if any components were duff. If not I would have the trusty assistant check that everything was clean (get some electrical contact cleaner RS Components are a good source) plug and unplug the connectors several times using the cleaner. The fact you have no sound could point to the actual controller (assuming you have the other beeps) All parts are available on the well known Auction site at sensible cost Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box and it will bring up your model the search for the bits you need. There are small drawing to help plus if buying you will have the correct part numbers and know they will fit. Hope my ramble is a help not confusing Dave

Hi Brian Welcome to the Forum That's a new one 😂 a soft BMW Two things I would do (1) check BMW Vin Decoder (Google) it will bring up your cars build sheet so you will have the original setup (2) check www.realoem.com (it is a BMW online parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model so you can check what parts are available. Certainly M sport springs and dampers are normally stiffer. Hope you find what you need Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Asking folks to diagnose a noise without hearing it is just about impossible. I also don't follow the Specialists advice, from what I have read the newer engines have 4 Lambda Sensors where earlier engines have 2, but their job is the same to measure the Nitrogen Oxide (Nox). They are mounted before the Catalyser and after the catalyser so that they can measure the difference and signal the DME to adjust fuel/valve timing accordingly. I think you have 2 catalysers so 4 sensors.A diagnostic scan should show any issues. The advice given seems to be inline with Diesel's to force a regeneration of the DPF (Diesel Particulate filter) If the knock is only on cold start? I would first check oil levels as low oil will let oil drain back to the sump which then would give several components the opportunity to rattle/knock on start up, once the engine has run and oil pressure is in the system no rattle/knock. If oil level is OK I would check for something loose in the exhaust that once warm expands and stops the rattle. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Dan I take it there is oil in the Diff ? When you rotate the prop is there play or movement in the Rubber Doughnuts that connect each end they are a known cause of issues as they crack with age and use/abuse 🤣 Plus they are considerably cheaper than a diff. With the drive shafts check each end for loose bolts Dave

Morning Lance Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan would help pinpoint where the problem is it could be the door switch or an issue with the FCM. Without testing and checking you can spend a lot of cash changing stuff unnecessarily. I would start with the simple things pop out the switch clean the connectors and pins with a good contact cleaner (not WD40) see if that improves things test the switch operation with a tester/multi meter. Pop the back off the mirrors and check/clean connections. Don't forget the earth connections Hope this helps Dave

Now Stu remember a BMW should be seen as an Educational Device (did you mean the fuse in the right cubby or the 10a fuse under the quadloc on the radio unit) Dave

Morning Dan Is the play in the Diff or drive shafts ? I may be wrong but I thought your car came with 2.56 or 3.15 diff depending on Transmission. The bigger engine models 330i or M3 are 3.15 or 3.08 (check I am an old bloke) I would check the whole drive train for wear slack in all prop-shaft joints and drive shafts. If more acceleration is your goal then a simple ECU tune would push power to about 210hp with a good increase in torque. How ever if your getting there quicker make sure you can stop faster to, so don't forget brakes and suspension. Dave

Hi Simon As said in your earlier post check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model then search wheels. It will give you all the information you need for 17" 18" 19" 20" wheels Dave

🤣😂🤣 If in doubt chuck it out !!! Strikes again From Memory there is a plastic formed insert that sits below the spare that houses the PDC If the scan is telling you which sensor I would first check the connector at the sensor clean and refit they often get damp and throw a wobbler..If that doesn't cure it change it fairly easy job.

Morning Kenny Use BMW Vin decoder it will give you the build sheet for your Chassis, that way you know what was there at assembly. (1) No special tools that I can think of? ? Apart from a really big bag of patience, I take it you have a good trim removal tool set. The seats in my X5 are held down byT45 Fillister head from memory. My 3/8 Drive ratchet set has T10 to T55 plus I added the same sizes in Torx Sockets. I would take a good look at TIS and Realoem if there are any plastic clips get a few spare before hand, (though as you have a donor car you may be OK. (2) With any luck your donor car has trim parts in the colour you want?? One of the guys on the X5 forum a few years back wrapped his in Carbon effect the pictures looked good.Check www.realoem.com for clues. (3) The main looms and connectors should be there (unless your Modder has been there with his scissors) If your car is like the X5 the main loom runs each side of the car in a channel under the carpet then across to the centre under the seats where it meets with the loom from the Dash. Some carpet may be glued in place but removal should be straight forward. Just dip into the bag of patience (4) Just compare the two loom connections under the centre console (5) You can change heated seat pads (bag of patience again) again realoem should be a help if used with TIS. You can leave plugs unused just tape them to protect them. Me personally if it is there it should work!1 My sons say I have OCD in that respect 🤣 Seems your in a similar mould Kenny you will have a virtually new car soon 😅 Dave

Morning Stu OOerr that is definitely a knackered tyre 🤢 When I had my 4.4 it ran 19" Staggered set from memory 255x50x19R front and 285x45x19R rear Front wheels 19"x9J ET48 Rear wheels 19"x10JxET45 If you have been running the same size tyres all round on staggered rims I am amazed you haven't had transmission wind up or at least signs of it !! Dave PS Just had a thought there was a guy on another Forum a few years back who fitted 10J wheels front and rear he thought it stopped tyre shoulder wear ?? I always thought good alignment and tyre pressure did that Silly Me. Check your front wheel sizes in case he had a fan

Don't post them, our Postie keeps telling they were leaking 🤣🤣

If the engine is stripped already my personal route would be another head assembly. Checked for flatness with a good straightedge and a torch. If OK I would fit new valves and springs and rebuild the engine. Always worth more as a running car than a project

Morning Simon Check www.realoem.com for BMW recommendations 18" 19" 20" personally I would steer clear of bigger sizes as tyre options become restricted It depends I guess on what it fitted now, are the current wheel/tyre combination staggered (wider at the back) or square (same width front and back) You could go to something like 20" 275x40x20R front and 315x35x20R rear or 20" 275x40x20R all round with spacers at the rear Beauty as they say is in the eye of the beholder so one mans "Gucci" is another mans Yuk Just enjoy your Beemer Dave

Whoop Whoop great news Dan well done Matey

Morning Guido I spent most of my working life involved with materials handling systems and their controls, if we were migrating a clients control package/system upgrade whatever the reason we NEVER turned off what was there until the new package was fully commissioned. Sadly it seems BMW (like many others) just shut stuff down just crazy. My neighbour works for BMW Group I will see if he's home and ask if he can help. Just spoke with him and he accessed what he could of the archive so here goes, production started in March 1976 with complete car assembly by Karmann some early cars were 3.0cs (can't find numbers yet) he believes all 633 were CSi. Karmann built complete cars until August 1977 After August Karmann made bodies but assembly was by BMW late 1977 they started to produce the 635CSi. Apparently the 1976/77 Karmann built cars are proverbial Rocking Horse Poo he suggests contacting Karmann they will have chassis records, apparently BMW are due up and running soon !! So if your car was registered in 1976 or early 1977 chances are it's pretty special. Fingers crossed for you Dave

I assume ECU, Throttle Body and cams, As all the heads appear to be the same the only things variable are (a) Capacity (b) ECU program (c) Throttle Body (d) Camshaft duration/lift I thought you were just rebuilding the motor in the X3 and looking for a head that would fit. Remember if you change the engine you will have to change the sump as it also mounts the front diff and has to have a Drive Shaft pass through it there are probably a few other differences I have not thought of. Best option would be the 3.0i engine from either the X3 or X5 both would need the corresponding ECU and the ECU would need matching to your existing chassis and other key control units Dave

Hi Les I have a couple of lists of all the ULF/Telematic units that I used when finding the best upgrade for my X5 I hope it helps Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW Online Parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the relevant section there a re small exploded drawing to help identify if your exhaust is standard or not. Hope the lists help Dave BMW ULF.odt BMW_TCUandULF_PartNumbers.pdf

Morning Dan Turbos get flippin hot, years ago people would shut the engine down and the oil in the turbo would bake. As you can imagine they failed on a regular basis, advice then was let the car tick over for 5 or 10mins to allow everything time to cool down. Today turbos have much longer lives thanks to onboard systems. It may be part of the cars protection program that keeps the vanes moving until it cools down, haven't heard it before but now I will check. It could be the coolant system Aux pump circulating to cool things down while the actuator moves the vanes through their range. Dave

Morning Guido Welcome to the Forum Wow just wow, if your car is genuine then you could have your hands on a very rare car indeed. The E24 was a development from the E9 as far as I know production number s were very low around 200 cars mid 1970's to late 1980's. I am told that the early cars bodies were produced by Karmann which would make it rarer still. You must have Chassis/ Engine numbers I would contact BMW direct for help they should be able to trace at least it's production history Dave

Hi Jim I believe the valves in your head are Inlet 33mm Exhaust 30.5mm a quick look at the TIS and it seems to indicate all the heads up to the 3.0 use the same Cylinder Head /Valve combination The models it was used on are as follows 3' E46   (04/1997 — 12/2018) 5' E39   (02/1995 — 12/2003) 5' E60   (12/2001 — 02/2005) 5' E61   (10/2002 — 02/2005) 7' E38   (03/1995 — 07/2001) 7' E65   (07/2002 — 02/2005) 7' E66   (09/2002 — 02/2005) X3 E83   (01/2003 — 07/2006) X5 E53   (08/1999 — 09/2006) Z3 E36   (04/1996 — 06/2002) Z4 E85   (01/2002 — 11/2005) It isn't until you get to the M3 that the intake changes to 35mm exhaust stays the same obviously cams are very different. Just talked to a pal who runs a tuning company he informs me that your 2.5 motor in standard trim will give around 190 bhp and ecu tune on its own would lift it to 210 ish bhp with cams some intake work and a better exhaust around 250 is easy to achieve. If the motor were changed to the 3.0i 250bhp is your starting point. Hope this helps you Dave

Hi Dan The fact everything works points towards either a low or dying battery voltage should be 12.8v engine/ignition off 14+v with the engine running If the battery is down when you start all power is diverted to the starter so the diagnostic see's multiple faults as other stuff is starved of power. Dave

Chris if checking make sure you ceck the earth point for the rear light cluster Dave

Hi Chris When you say the computer are you referring to the cars onboard self check system or a Diagnostic program plugged into the OBD port. A program such as ISTA will show all recorded faults and whether they are currently present or not Normal suspect is poor contact at the actual lamp holder a long time ago I brought a good electrical contact cleaner and some electrical contact paste. A good clean with contact cleaner a smear of contact paste normally fixes things. Early X5's suffered with rear light issues (water ingress) BMW's fix was change the whole unit mine was as described plus a thin smear of silicone to seal the lamp unit. Dave

Or upgrade to a 3.0i engine basically the same block 255hp just make sure you get the ECU with the engine. If you get a copy of PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 you can register it to the chassis and the other units Dave