Greydog

Morning Tony 🤣 I like that Best thing I did to the X5 was re-bush the suspension, I made all the bush removal/insertion tools myself with material scrounged from the scrap at a local engineering shop. Subframe bushes and inner swing arm bushes are now Poly Bushes, all the rest Meyle HD brought as a kit from the Bay. Ride improved, handling improved, tyre wear (inner rear) stopped. The most fiddly was the Diff mount bush but when done cured a slight vibration in the drive lines at 3k and above. Just remember AI was invented by someone who was born naturally stupid !! A skilled engineer doesn't need a computer, he knows instinctively what size hammer is needed Dave

Hi Kenny Check the lights where the bulb mount twists in any corrosion even a little can cause a hissy fit (common issue with the E53) I cleaned mine and rubbed a little conductive paste on (same as used to mount the chip in a computer around it no issues for 5 years. Loom adapter ? New one on me but as the old saying goes "Every day is a school day" check the earth connection though, odd ball thought could the extended length in the loom be the cause? Dave

Hi Tony Welcome to the Forum Seems your becoming a dab hand with the Beemer ENJOY Dave

Morning Kenny Considering what your learning about how your car has been chopped and hacked about that isn't a great surprise. Good news on the lights Front and rear for £210 sounds a really good price, just check the part numbers a good for your car (if you haven't already) also check whether the Control unit and Electronics unit (1 for each Headlamp) are there, they mount under the headlamp unit. The cars loom plugs into them then a short loom from them to the HID bulbs. If the units you are getting are Bi Xenon as long as the control unit and electronics box is right all should be OK. Remember double click the part numbers and you will get a list of part numbers that can be swapped without conflict. Disconnecting the battery for 30mins is a Dealer trick to reset everything maybe the seller had done that and not tightened things up ?? A scan for faults would tell you as even faults not present are held in the memory. Sounds like progress Dave

Hi BMW 118 Welcome to the Forum That sounds like a real result don't lose the Name of the Garage there may well be others needing it Dave

Morning Kenny Just Google inline resistors or Ebay them. If the rears you have are LED then the current they draw is less than half the standard lamps, when you turn on the car self tests and thinks the rear lamps have failed. The resistor fits in line in the power lead and fools the system. When looking for the replacement headlamp units try the specialist BMW Dismantlers, I have used Quarry Motors a few times over the years very helpful. Ask them for the loom plugs as well then if yours have been hacked a little time spent with a soldering iron will have it back to standard. Thats what I did with our sons friends RRS he had the same problem Chinese upgrade by the previous owner looked good would have been better if they didn't send the car into a hissy fit every time he turned the lights on. Dave

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum That looks good plus with no roof and some decent load straps you can stack loads of Grandchildren up in the back 🤣 Dave

Hi Kenny Yes you can use Carly though it is a subscription service (don't know the costs) The thinking was a scan would tell you more not turn off warnings. It was more to identify specific units causing the problems. The light types were (IIRC) Xenon dip beam Halogen Mains, then latter models Bi Xenon the Lamp Units can be set LHD or RHD on the unit on the Bi Xenon LCM/FCM unit is where it was switched at manufacture (dont quote me on this it may be my old head dreaming) To get back to standard what type of Light System did the Decoder list S522A or S524A that will tell us if they were Bi Xenon With luck the plank who did this adapted the plug on the lamps and not the loom if that is so then getting hold of replacement lamp units should cure the issues as for the rears it may be that it just needs inline resistors to smooth things out. The trick now is as X5 says is finding the sensible way forward that doesn't bend your wallet out of shape, any chance the seller would help? Dave

Hi George Welcome to the Forum Dave

Hi BMW Newb Welcome to the Forum First a few simple things, have you tried a forced reboot ? Press the CD and DVD Eject Buttons along with the Volume Button hold all 3 down for 5 secs the system should reboot The next is have the fuses all been checked ? Remove the CIC fuse for at least 15 secs this sometimes kick starts the system again If those don't work you could google BMW CIC repairers normally repairs are a fraction of the cost of replacement plus as the unit is already registered to your chassis you wont have the hassle of finding some one who can register a replacement to your chassis Good Luck hope it's the simple stuff Dave

Hi Bactongas Welcome to the Forum Are you looking for a complete mirror assembly ?? Or just the mirror cap ? And are your mirrors fold in or fixed ? I would check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then look in the trim section for the part numbers you need as then when you buy you know it will fit. Then search Ebay or other sites for the best price for what you want, as for colour you can take off and paint the mirror caps on your surviving mirror and the drivers door replacement. Or get them painted if you don't fancy trying yourself. Dave

Morning Kenny I don't understand folks who spend good money to do an "upgrade" that makes it worse??? Use BMW Vin Decoder put your Vin number into the search box it will call up your cars build sheet. BMW use codes for equipment probably something like S522A (that would indicate Xenon I honestly thought all E60/61 and F15 builds came with Bi-Xenon not halogen. I have read a lot over the years of people trying to make the halo's brighter, not read anything about changing headlamps for aftermarket?? I have seen some bodges where headlamp units have been fitted that come from newer models (sorted a couple of Range Rovers for friends of our sons) It will be interesting to know what your car came with against what is there now. Do you have a BMW specific code reader? That would give us more information, a copy of INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 or i carsoft would cost about the same as a single diagnostic session at a Dealer. Plus going forward it will help a lot with knowing whats going on with your car. Dave

Hi Kenny Sounds a bit of a nightmare First stop if you are not already aware should be www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Check the lighting section and find the part numbers for your car, if you double click the part number it will bring up a list of alternate models/types if they were available. I think it would only be E60/61 or may the LCI model which came in at the end of 2005 It is possible that someone has tried to upgrade to LED which if they don't have a diode in line will throw the lamp failure warnings. Just had a quick look at the listing for E60 which should come with Bi-Xenon lights as standard (you wont get much better) or Bi-Xenon Adaptive Part numbers are Bi-Xenon left 63127160195 right 63127160196 or Adaptive Bi-Xenon left 63127160151 right 63127160152 Looking at Realoem it seems some headlamp assemblies while from E60/61 models are not a direct exchange so the part numbers on your fitted units would help solve the issue if you can take some pics it may help Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ahsan Tyre types are chosen for many reasons, Cost, Looks, Grip, How long they last? For many just because "that was what it came with" Tyre profile has 2 effects (1) lower profile (side wall) tyres are stiffer offering less sideways movement so give better handling. Down side the ride can be harder, crashing over every imperfection on the road due to less compliance. (2) A higher profile sidewall tyre will be more compliant and help with ride comfort. Tyre ratings for economy run from A the highest to G the worst. I did read a report a couple of years ago that the difference between the best and worst was about 7.5% so if you get say 30mpg on an A rated tyre you will get around 28mpg with a G rated tyre. That is the theory but as said before the condition of Brakes, Suspension and the pressure in the tyres all have an effect. The same report also noted that 70% of cars sampled had at least 1 underinflated tyre which will undo any A rated choice. So your choice is fine, will look right and will give a good compromise between ride and handling, Tyre pressures should be checked regularly (I do mine weekly while checking oil and water) if you keep the tyre pressures correct you should give yourself the best chance of achieving good mpg and the best tyre life. To many car drivers today rely solely on the car to "tell them" if the oil is low, coolant is low, or tyres under inflated. Dave

Hi Ahsan If that is what you want that choice it will work fine As for consumption that depends on several things (1) the rolling résistance of the rubber compound the tyre is made from (2) Tyre pressures (3) Mechanical condition of the Suspension and brakes When choosing tyres you will see a consumption/fuel rating so look for the one with the best figure Dave

Hi Ashan Welcome to the Forum First a question, are the rims you have brought BMW or Aftermarket ? You also dont say what size 17" !8" 19" 20" all were available for your car. 8j front fitment should have an offset of 33ET stamped on the inside of the rim, 81/2j should be 33ET 9j would be 44ET Tyres lets assume 19" rims 8j front 81/2j rear with the correct offset Front would be 245/40R19 94Y Rear 274/35 R19 98Y The offset is important to ensure the rim is centred on the hub to maintain the geometry Hope that helps Dave

Morning Kenny There is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find some helpful names there who are more local to you Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum It may have been left in Delivery mode to protect the engine during the run in period talk to your dealer they should make sure everything is spot on for you. Good Luck lucky boy (Hide your licence) Dave

Hi Phil Welcome to the Forum Engine idle with everything up to temp should be about 600 to 650 rpm You will need a diagnostic program to adjust the idle but first I would check all the vacuum lines are in good condition. Also check for any air leaks in the inlet side, also check the PCV system is good and not clogged (no smoke when its been idling for awhile) Dave

Hi John First you have 2 throttle bodies if one is malfunctioning that could be a cause though a scan should show it up. I have also read of a failed O2 sensor causing a similar effect I take it all vacuum lines and sensors have been checked ? All the above should show on a fault scan. What did the dealer think the issue was that was so serious that a new engine was the solution (apart from loads of profit) Dave

Hi John If the drip is at the transfer case are you sure it's Engine oil ? There is an Electrical Connector to the gearbox that often is the source of leaks (another "O" ring) Unplug the Plug the connector is a twist lock affair with the "O" on it Hope that's it Dave

Now you can enjoy your Beemer 😃 Dave

Don't know where you are Kenny but my brother inlaw has used BWchiptune Hayes/Uxbridge area google will get you contact details. They are BMW specialists and have their own Rolling Road so their figures aren't guess work. He travels from Essex he has now had 4 5 series upgraded by them and not had any issues his cars are serviced by his BMW Dealer Dave

Morning Kenny Welcome to the Forum That looks really tasty the red and yellow grill stripes would go if it was me. My brother inlaw runs a 535d Touring ECU tuned, over 320hp 600nm scares the life out of the odd Porker driver mid range acceleration is amazing. Reminds me of my AMG E55's Just one word really ENJOY Dave

Just to confuse Michelin, Continental and Bridgestone are all on the BMW list. For what its worth I have a friend who has a 2003 E46 M3 Coupe his car runs 19" Rims fronts are 225/40 rears are 255/35 currently he has Yokohama Advan fitted we just got back from Golf so I have had a look. He is happy with them wet and dry (though if it is wet he is out by accident) says he got a good deal early last year with Black Circles