Greydog

Have you disconnected the battery, if you haven't all fault codes will remain as "Fault Present" so nothing will change? Your battery seems OK by those figures. The Battery Disconnect is a Dealer trick to reset faults without a full diagnostic check If you don't have a BMW capable code reader you may need the help of a Garage or may be a member on here near you to run a check. Dave

Morning John A common cause of brake judder is also the wish bone bushes going soft, the big heavy arm connected to the hub and the front of the car If you don't have a sticky calliper or warped disc get them to check it out Good luck Dave

Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum This is the first time I have heard this one so some "Genius" in BMW has found another way to try and hold onto your wallet??? Do they not realise they are actually driving folks away? There are a few aftermarket suppliers of Software upgrades now, try talking to Rusty at Satnav upgrades google will help Dave

Morning Dave As Stu has said first check the battery and make sure it is fully charged. If you disconnect the battery for 30mins minimum it will reset all codes. So good opportunity to disconnect and do an overnight charge. Are we dealing with a petrol or diesel variant ? The codes point to the Throttle body and its harness (so I guess petrol), it's not unheard of for the harness's to chafe and cause issue so test it carefully and check it for any sign of wear or damage. If you are not aware use www.raeloem.com to identify correct parts for replacement it is an online BMW parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum As Stu says this is a really straight forward job to do, the BMW OEM kit was not cutting edge so unless you have OCD about originality go for it There are manufacturers like Dynavin that I know allow you to retain all the stalk and steering wheel functions and the unit is literally plug and play and designed to look OEM, plus as you have seen there are a whole raft of offers on E bay just remember the old saying you get what you pay for. ENJOY Dave

Morning John A lot of cars with adjustable rear suspension tend to be aggressive with the rear tyre inside edges. I have experienced this on several cars I have owned Mercs, to Subaru and of course the BMW's Volvos while not adjustable at the rear have a peculiar effect in that the front tyres wear oddly on the outside edges. On all the cars alignment checks showed everything to "be within Manufacturers tolerance" Tyre pressures were always spot on. First noticed when we ran Volvo 850's and V70's in our business as engineers cars.'So I started to check carefully all bushes and mountings on the suspension and was able to compare a new car to a car with 50+k on the clock that was just starting to show odd wear. Rear bushes all seemed in good order but if I was aggressive with a pry bar there was more movement in the higher mileage car. So we re=bushed the rear suspension had alignment checked problem fixed. That was in the early/mid 90's and with all the following cars the bush wear at the rear has been the culprit. With both X5's (very similar set up to your 325) the Rose bush in the set up starts to go soft so that under load the toe in is altered, result wear to the inside edge. Experience has taught me that once wear begins re-bush the rear suspension not just the obvious suspect as an example a complete kit for the rear of the X5 is around £300 just did the job for the 2nd time on my X5 so much cheaper than a set of tyres. It seems that the rubber bushes have a service life of between 60 to 80k depending on use and conditions That is where I would look I would also bite the bullet and change the lot Dave

Morning Ben Welcome to the Forum Lost Power? Electrical or Engine ? All our answers will be guess's on so little information If its Electrical could be a whole raft of things so if you can't DIY you need an Auto Electrician or good Garage. If it's Engine have you continued driving it with reduced power?? Again if you can't DIY you need help it could be Turbo or Turbo actuator related it could be a fuel pump issue or injector issue it could be EGR related. A full Diagnostic session is needed. Dave

Is it Cured ??

Isn't Clocking Illegal in the UK ??

Morning Paul Not easy as the only ones that I have ever seen are After Market and as you probably know that can be a bit hit and miss Have you asked your Dealer? Dave

Morning Donald Welcome to the Forum As your car is at best just over a year old I would be much harder with the Dealer as it is their responsibility to supply a vehicle that is "suitable for purpose" and a very expensive car should have "everything" working correctly, no faults. I would ask what they had done to check the fault, a software test is not good enough what physical tests did they do and what plan is in place to rectify the problem, Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Not trying to "teach Granny" as you have done a lot of work so some questions (1) Does your car have Dynamic Drive ? (2) When buying your parts have you sourced them by part number or ordered through a motor factor ? Are you aware of www.realoem.com its a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look at the front axel assembly there are small drawings and all the parts/part numbers The small exploded drawings will let you see all components and where they are. Yes you can buy the mounting bushes separately check first if you have Standard or Dynamic drive roll bar Also don't get obsessed with the suspension my wifes Subaru Outback developed an annoying clunk at the front and I went through a few days of head scratching and testing for loose/worn bushes then discovered a broken mounting on the Washer reservoir ?? You never know Good Luck with solving it Dave

Morning Neil Welcome to the Forum I changed a manifold for a friend of one of our sons last year (not a 4.0d) he brought a Cast Iron manifold from Ebay for £80 it came with all gaskets and fitted really well. The original had several cracks in it and looked cheap by comparison. The car he says is quieter (well it would be, no cracks) and actually gives better mpg. So my only thought is talk to the Cast iron suppliers. As you are suffering the cracking I bet you aren't alone maybe they will have a solution Dave

Fingers crossed for you Margo Some years ago I had an issue with a Mercedes E63 I owned the problem was intermittent violent gear shifts. First the Dealer at first dismissed it even said it could be my driving style. They said they had tested the car and couldn't find a fault, over a period of months they had the car more than me. It reached a point where even after I was able to take the service manager out so he could feel the problem himself and me informing them in writing that if they didn't fix it this time I wanted my money back. 4 days later got a call saying all fixed it was a software issue, the car was perfect for the rest of my ownership. I learned later from a technician who left the Dealership that in fact they had a number of gearbox issues with my model and the solution was change the box but only as a last resort ?? Lets hope what ever they have done it lets you enjoy your car at last Dave

Morning Ewen Welcome to the Forum You are quite right to be cautious check some of the websites like "How Many are left" that will give a feel for how many are still registered (rarity) Then check the specialist Classic car Auction sites to see if there are any there for sale. Talk to them see if you can get a realistic valuation, then you can make more informed decisions. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and if you are lucky enough to get 2 "beholders" at an auction 😃 Good Luck Dave

Morning Dymytro Welcome to the Forum As the Dealer has acknowledged an issue by taking out the dash my question would be 2 weeks to take out and replace the dash ???? Clearly they treated it as job to do when you have time rather than actually caring about a customer. All you can do is keep pressure on BMW Good Luck Dave

Morning Margo As your original issue was the gear selection randomly changing my guess would be that is where they are looking. Without being able to see the scan results and where they focussed. Sadly we live in an age where we are reliant on Technology even the technicians using the diagnostic equipment rarely analyse what they are seeing.often a fault is a symptom not the direct cause. The 4 items I mention are part of the cars onboard system which talk to the gearbox control. The Instrument cluster following your Vid but a fault in any of them can cause these issues from what I have read. If your Instrument cluster is out of sync as in your Video they should question Why, The cluster may be OK so what causes the effect? In stead they just assume no issue. Hopefully the intervention of a BMW Master Tech may help you get to where you should be instead of driving a Loaner Dave

Morning Oneel When was the car last serviced ? A Dealer will say that's normal but then they always do ?? I have read of this warning coming on after as little as 1500 miles on one of the US Forums (why don't they fit a Dip Stick). I would check the hand book for which oils are safe to use. I believe the recommended grade for your engine is 0-30 SEQ68 though I have seen Fully Synthetic oils from 5-20 to 5-40 recommended for use in the S63B44B Turbo charged engine. So from what I am reading a litre in 33k seems a good figure My own 4.6is V8 ran Castrol fully synthetic 5-30 until the Timing chain guides failed. I rebuilt the engine completely (not just new chain guides) upper and lower chains, pistons rings crank polished and balanced all bearings gaskets etc etc a big list. I also fitted Dinan Cams and throttle body with an upgraded ECU. When talking to Dinan in the US they recommended 5-40 fully synthetic which is what I now use. I change the oil/filter every year as a matter of course as I have never trusted Dealer Extended service periods. My old X5 has now covered just over 160k and is 19 years young, last year a run on a rolling road showed 372hp at the wheels and although I don't push it hard it is used to tow a Horse trailer and some gentle Off Road use I have not had to top up between oil changes which happen around 8 to 10k Dave

Morning Daryl Welcome to the Forum Great car Attached is a section from www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model then just look at the section you need. If you double click any part number you will get a list of other models that it was used on. If your changing the condenser dont forget the Dryer/evaporator. I would then Google the part numbers and see what comes up BMW have a large Classic section so I would say you have a lazy Dealer ?? Change them, try dropping an Email to Cotswold BMW parts department they have always been helpful and there are some good discounts on parts for older models. Or just google the parts surprising what comes up sometimes. Hope this helps Dave No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Condenser air conditioning 1 64538398181 $529.62 02 Hex head screw ST6,3X45-C-Z2 2 07119916848 $0.54 03 Spacer sleeve 2 64538353083 $4.63 04 Grommet 2 64538353084 $3.00 05 Body nut ST6,3-1-ZN 2 07129925742 $0.25 ENDED 05 Body nut ST6,3-1 2 06/2002 07129901663 $0.20 ENDED 05 Body nut ST6,3-1-ZNS3 2 07129904231 Notes ENDED = the part has been discontinued (no longer available). Copyright © RealOEM.com

Morning Margo The Dealer apart from scratch their Head and/or Backside seems to have done nothing other than an inconclusive scan. Perhaps now they have involved BMW things may move forward, it sounds to me that the Dealer doesn't want to swap any parts in case BMW won't underwrite it. As they don't repair things just swap components they have a choice of Instrument cluster, Information screen, Controller or Head unit any or all of them. Each of which will need coding to your chassis if they are changed. Here in the UK there is Buyer protection under the "Sale of Goods Act" which has a clause that states Goods must be of Merchantable Quality if not the Buyer can either demand another Working example at no cost to them or their money back. Do you have anything similar there? Tiresome but I would document every visit and the time your car has been in their (sounds like they have had it almost as long as you) Ask if you can talk to the BMW Technician when he has looked at your car and ask what action BMW will undertake. Certainly your dealer isn't very pro-active is there another near by Fingers crossed for you Margo Dave

Morning Colin Well done, good old YouTube some really helpful stuff on there A couple of other useful sites if you aren't aware (1) www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then look for the parts you need. (2) www.pelicanparts.com An American site but in the Articles section has some terrific "How too's" with pictures Glad it's sorted Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum Check the Battery ? Have you tried charging the battery ? How old is the battery ? Remember if changing the battery it needs to be registered to your car to ensure correct charging rates. If the Battery is OK then check the starter motor Dave

Morning Ray OK great information the new probable suspect (and not uncommon on many marques and makes) is the under bonnet alarm switch. Normally located at the back of the engine bay (rear left when looking from the front) just disconnect it to see iff the drain stops if it does just swap the switch. If it isn't the switch then the alarm sounder would be my next port of call, a Scan with ISTA should show any issues with the EWS Hope it helps Dave

I think you are asking for help in the wrong Forum This is a BMW owners Forum not a software forum, you need help from the Software writers/suppliers with the "Set Up" procedure. Looking at your pictures a Chinese speaking computer engineer would help. It may be cheaper to buy a copy of ISTA/INPA Sorry I can't help Dave

Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum First has a diagnostic scan been carried out? From your description I would suspect the Alternator or Voltage regulator Unfortunately the above is an educated guess, it needs to be confirmed either by testing or by a Diagnostic Scan. If you can't DIY then you need the help of preferably someone with a BMW capable scanner (BMW Dealer (Expensive) BMW Specialist or an Independent Garage/Auto Electrician) I hope when jump starting you used the Charging Points under the bonnet. If not damage can be caused which is another reason why a full scan needs to be done just to check. When the New battery was fitted was it (a) correct for the car and (b) registered to the system? If it wasn't it may not be recognised and not charge correctly. Hope it is a simple fix Dave