Greydog

Morning Graham Welcome to the Forum If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your Model. Then search the sections for what you need, once you have your part number Google it for suppliers. Don't dismiss your BMW Dealer as many offer discounts on older models at really good prices Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Never come across this one before, clearly the Parking Sensors think your to close to an obstruction so they trigger the Brakes to protect you and the car. Not sure if you can adjust or turn off what BMW see as "Safety Systems" have you spoken to the Dealer Services Good Luck Dave

Before you do anything Double click the part number in realoem it should give you a list of (A) alternate part numbers/upgrades (B) a list of other models its used in Dave

Morning Skevos First action is disconnect the Battery while it is disconnected make sure it is fully charged and holding the charge, Do not reconnect the Battery with the charger attached. If you charge the Battery with it in the car only ever do it from the charging posts under the bonnet. A low or discharged Battery will throw all sorts of spurious codes. Disconnecting the Battery should clear all stored codes, All the codes reported are Generic codes you really need either BMW capable Reader or a Mechanic or Garage that has one (it really makes a difference) Both the codes you report indicate a timing/sensor issue either an open circuit (or unplugged) sensor back track over all work done checking correct installation and connections. I suspect the latest Faults are all related and magnified by a Low Battery voltage Dave

I spoke with him and he tells me the probability is the sensor has failed he also said they have records of connector damage/failure the only loom damage they have records of is rodent damage. He says check that the connector hasn't been changed before ( BMW supply replacements with 3 white wires ?) If its been changed check the colder connection. He says the dealerships use a repair connector with 3 white cables ?? (just to confuse the innocent) the wiring diagram shows its connections but doesn't help with its route He will send it tomorrow Dave

Morning Chloe Welcome to the Forum First are you sure it is the Gearbox not something loose like a heat shield if you can't get underneath to check then you will need the help of someone who can. If there is nothing loose rattling then it could be something to do with the Torque converter as the gearbox is not turning in neutral or park. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Well INPA not very helpful so reverting to an old friend in BMW see if he can get me a wiring diagram. I assume (always dangerous) that the sensor wiring will terminate at either the Junction Box module or the Footwell Module Dave

I will take a look at INPA and see what information I can find Just out with the dogs so it will be later Dave

Definitely seems your oil sensor needs checking, plus the loom for continuity My guess would be the sensor I have changed a few over the years not seen them causing those issues though. Dave

See my other answer to your earlier post Matt

Morning Matt Not a good thing to find water anywhere in the car, water in the boot is normally seals around the rear lights or the seals around the boot also worth checking sunroof drains. My bet would be on the rear light seals i have seen a couple of those. You can get new sealing sets online just make sure you clean any old stuff off first or they will leak again. Your CiC/CCC infotainment system is I believe in the dash and a single unit (check www.realoem.com) So 1st checks for me would be all the connectors and the fuse in the back of the CiC/CCC also check the Controller and its connections. Just get a set of trim removal tools so you don't damage/scratch any other bits of trim you should be able to find a removal Video on YouTube if you haven't done it before Good Luck fingers crossed it's simple fix, on the plus side you don't have to think about what to do with your Weekend 🤣 Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum It depends how good you are with the spanners I would think George, I can think of a few things which would make it difficult at best if not impossible. 1. Physically are they going to fit lots of measuring needed 2. Are the runners and seat frame compatible if not can they be swapped over 3. Is the electrical system compatible are the connectors the same type 4. Will the cars electronics accept the change? Can the car be programmed to accept the change. All things are possible good luck Dave

Hi Stuart If you are not aware check www.realoem.com look in the Classic section check other models with the same engine even larger capacity. Like all manufacturers BMW used parts across their range. Check 3 and 5 series models with the same engine type I would also check for any specialist repairers, in the UK we have a few companies who are really excellent at repairing/updating/upgrading many classic parts I guess you are already aware of www.pelicanparts.com and if you haven't already contact BMW direct they have a Classic Division Good Luck Great car Dave

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum A classic BMW owner Enjoy Dave

Morning joe At the battery connections check carefully the 2 small wires they get damaged easily. Then check the alternator is correct, I have seen similar problems with a neighbours 5 series he fitted a new alternator (alternator brought from GSF) he was assured it was correct for the car. With him I checked www.realoem.com got the correct Part Number and alternator size 120A, the one fitted was 150A. GSF were very good when asked they checked and confirmed the 150A was wrong swapped for a 120A and all his problems were gone. I had alternator/battery drain issues with one of my AMG's in the early 2000's Dealer fitted new Battery no change (under warranty fortunately) In the end I changed the Voltage regulator myself problem fixed. So check the Voltage Regulator as well Dave

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum First check the smell of the water as I have found the rear washer tube split above the B pillar then washer fluid ran down the B pillar every time the washer was used, strange the washer still worked just not as well as it should. If its that then you should smell washer fluid. Check sun roof drains they are regular culprits for leaks, also check the rear door drains and the membrane behind the door card water often runs down the glass and if the drain is blocked and it can get past the membrane by splits or it not being sealed properly it is scary just how much can come in. Good Luck with the hunt hope this helps Dave

I have BMW INPA/ISTA plus BMW 1.4.0 (for early models) so same level of access as the Dealers have. I have heard of Launch but not used it. Just an after thought have you checked the gearbox mount I have known a failed gearbox mount cause odd gearbox behaviour, seen it on 2 cars a 535d Touring and an X6, the X6 actually had a rusted mount?? Lets hope what ever it is it isnt a wallet buster Dave

Hi joe First when you checked the voltage was the car asleep (tell tale on the Gearchange gone out? I would open the bonnet but close the car and leave it for at least 15mins check the gearchange light is out. If the voltage is still low, 11.4v then I would first make sure no accessories are plugged into the Cigarette lighter sockets or power outlets. Then with the battery fully charged start pulling fuses one at a to find the drain. Good Hunting Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Nice choice ENJOY Black is going to take some keeping clean 😂 Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box yhen look at the wheels/tyres section it will give you a list of all OEM fitment for your model Good Luck Dave

When you get the scanner on the car check for Torque converter faults Ha Ha Dr Tranny sorry no house calls but it really does work one of our sons friends was quoted a new box in his ! series by BMW and like you a Tranny specialist offered to rebuild his box for a silly number. He asked me what I thought of Dr Tranny and I confess at that time I had never heard of it, his symptoms were harsh/hard changes up and down the box his car had covered 80k at the time. I plugged it in and could only find fault codes for the Torque converter and 2 solenoids, we changed the fluid and filter (no debris even the fluid was fairly clean) he tried it and still had the change issues put in the Dr Tranny and next day he had a big smile on his face reporting everything OK. November last year at 155k we changed the gearbox fluid and filter again and put in another tube of Dr Tranny. I have used it on several cars belonging to friends and family plus my own E53 4.6is (164k) So it may be worth trying Dave

Morning Rod Is it all changes or just 1 or 2 ? Thinking sticking solenoid, try a tube of "Dr Tranny" I have known it work on several cars with change issues Dave

Whoop Whoop Well done Dan Dave

Hi Matt Welcome to the Forum The only parts list I can look at shows the parts below which seem unpainted? No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes For vehicles with M Aerodynamics package S715A=Yes 01 Rocker panel trim, primed, left 1 51778061487 01 Rocker panel trim, primed, right 1 51778061488 02 Supporting ledge left 1 51777294887 02 Supporting ledge right 1 51777294888 03 Supporting ledge left 1 51777320205 03 Supporting ledge right 1 51777320206 04 Supporting ledge left 1 51777320207 04 Supporting ledge right 1 51777320208 05 Supporting ledge left 1 51777320209 05 Supporting ledge right 1 51777320210 06 Fillister head screw 2 07147118369 $0.80 07 Expanding nut 8X8 MM 2 51127020321 $0.47 08 Abrasion-resistant film 2 51777416285 Message not specified.

Morning 1st Only charge the battery and check voltages at the charge points under the bonnet. 2nd Voltage measured using a Multi Meter at the charge points should be 12.5/12.8v Engine off car asleep, this shows a healthy Battery. Next check the voltage with the engine running it should be 14.5/14.8v this indicates a healthy Alternator. If the battery is charged directly it should be disconnected from the car to avoid possible damage to control units or sensors. After engine start it can take 15mins to replenish the battery Dave

I thought there was a dip stick right side low down at the rear of the engine Dave