Greydog

Absolutely, mechanically everything is in the same place, I would start with the free stuff and clean the solenoids when I did mine I removed them took off the "O" rings carefully then washed them in petrol to remove as many deposits as possible, then blew them out using a small air line attached to a spare wheel. Then put it in a tray of clean engine oil so it could get oil back where it should be. then lubed the "O" rings put them back on and reassembled back on the car. Then on to the next, I do one at a time so my old brain doesn't get confused. Remember to clean the electrical connectors as well. I have been out on the Lake some years ago in a sail boat with an old business friend who lives in Ann Arbor, he keeps his boat in Marquette. Beautiful country and it's an inland sea not a lake a lake you can see the other side!!

Hello James Welcome to the Forum Many car manufacturers and their Dealers are very protective of their brands stating strongly that "only OEM parts should be used" and I understand their position, however they seem to forget that their own OEM suppliers also sell to the wider market. They also don't like to recognise that all the components that make up our cars are made to a price, or"shock horror" that someone could improve a part!! Glad you have fixed your small issues and can enjoy your BMW, checkout www.realoem.com it is a BMW parts list, you can search by model/year or just put the last 7 digits of your vin in the search box and it will bring up your model it has small drawings and part numbers. You can also use www.newtis.info another BMW specific site same Technical information used by BMW Dealers. Good Luck with the Beemer and enjoy Dave

BMW fitted automatic advance and !Removed! of camshafts "Vanos" a sticking solenoid could cause the symptoms you are getting. I believe with your model you have solenoids on both exhaust and inlet camshafts. The Code you have is a general code BMW specific code will Identify the exact issue such as 2A9A intake cam sensor signal invalid, or 2A82 Intake vanos stiff or mechanically jammed. I would start by cleaning the solenoids as you are in the USA have you checked Pelican Parts website. Many guys in the UK use the site although it is specific to cars with the steering on the wrong side?? Their how too's are great and supported by pictures just did a quick search try this link www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/FUEL-VANOS_Solenoid_Replacing/FUEL-VANOS_Solenoid_Replacing.htm symptoms of a Bad BMW VANOS System Loss of power and torque, primarily in the lower ranges, typically below 3k RPMS. Engine hesitation and bogging in the lower rpm ranges. Rough idle with frequent hiccups. Increased fuel consumption or poor fuel economy. Cold start issues and stalling in cold weather It would be great to see some pictures the biggest "Mountain" near me is 750ft above sea level not exactly a challenge. Dave

Take care with the Xdrive cars as the star rated tyres are supposed to be more consistent in they're rolling radius, in particular if you have staggered wheels (fatter rears) it doesn't take much difference with Xdrive cars to cause transmission wind up and damage. Technically the tyres are the same the "star" rated tyres are made in batches to ensure they are consistent (or so I am told) With my X5 20" 275 front 315 rears I have run non star rated tyres with the help of a local fitting centre we stand front and rear tyres side by side to make sure they are close in rolling radius and have so far avoided issues. Dave

Morning Dan Sorry to read about your problems. I would guess that a previous owner has had the DPF removed and probably the EGR either due to problems (normally short journeys/town work) or as tuning software has been in place . As Eric says removing the DPF is an immediate MOT fail so best avoided in my opinion. I know there are many out there without DPF's that with some clever software pass MOT's but is it worth the risk?? There are a few BMW specialist breakers around just google them, Quarry Motors I have used they are in Sheffield from memory. Also as has been said DPF's are on Ebay so worth a look. For information my brother in-laws 535d is way past the 200k mark the only part not standard (to my knowledge) is the swirl flaps have been removed and he has had the car remapped for some time (300+ bhp and 40+ on a run) and apart from a sensor issue on the DPF no problems (well there have been many but not drive train related). I can fully understand the BMW Specialist as they don't know where they are starting from, and their diagnostics can't find any issues as they will probably be masked by software hiding the fact the DPF isnt there. They will need a base line to work from and in their case they need a standard car, you may find an independent garage that is prepared to dig around to sort the issue but every time they test something it will cost if not in parts in time. Sorry if this is negative and I can't be more help Dave

Snow Rain Fog Spooky Mountain Roads hells teeth I feel lucky to live in Sunny Sussex now !! Seriously good fix though Eric now you can enjoy your Beemer. Dave

Some have dipsticks some don't check realoem.com and newtis.info for clarification. The oil level can be checked on the on board monitor. Me old school I like to be able to physically see the oil level. Stay out of the deep puddles 😜

Oh the simple things in life !! been there myself with stuff like this before. I do know the cap has a relief valve in it so if you can get a genuine one from that well known auction site it would probably be better or is your replacement a correct fit? How brilliant that you haven't bust your wallet changing parts, I see you still have the white stuff on the ground!! Dave

We have a mix here in the UK BP, Shell, Esso are the big ones but then there are the Super Markets who also have petrol stations and supply under their own brand plus a fair few independent suppliers. Like most people I tend to fill up at one station which happens to be Texaco, I use their 95 ron Regular fuel and have had no issues to date, would going up to 97 ron give more performance or an improvement ?? I live in the South East where traffic generally is quite heavy and tends to govern speed so I guess I am used to what I have, I do use other fuels when travelling as then I will top up at the first available station regardless of supplier and haven't found any standout differences. It would be interesting to know if there is a difference after a fuel filter change

Hi Eric Check www.realoem.com for part numbers put the last 7 digits of your VIN number in the search box it will call up your model search the fuel system for part numbers that will ensure you have the correct part, nothing more frustrating than stripping down and finding the part doesn't fit!!! The check www.newtis.info for information on how to change the filter. When I brought my X5 it was 1 owner with full BMW history at 38k as I went through the car after purchase (I am a fussy old git) it became clear that the dealers who had serviced the car had changed oil and filter and little else. The air filter was filthy and the air box full of debris, the pollen filter was black, plus the fuel filter on the X5 is tucked away in front of a rear wheel behind a cover. The space was absolutely rammed with mud and crud, clearly it had never been checked. So I changed the filters, had the gearbox serviced by a ZF specialist then the regular service items happen by the cars schedule I change oil annually regardless of what the car says.

Morning Bob Sounds like something in the fuel/air delivery side isn't doing or can't do it's job. I would start on the easy/free stuff Air filter, all vacuum lines and inlet hoses for cracks or splits, is the MAF clean get some carb cleaner and give it a spray same with the throttle body. If they are all good and clean then fuel delivery side needs the same treatment, when was the fuel filter last changed? There is a fuel return valve in the engine bay if it sticks it could give low pressure and cause the problem even your fuel filler cap can have a blocked breather and cause these symptoms. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your VIN in the search box it will bring up your model, then search fuel preparation. Also check out www.newtis.info the same information as used by BMW Dealers for service and how too's Dave

If the fuel has been low quality have you changed the fuel filter?

Morning Ian The cover inside behind the rearview mirror that covers the sensor just unclips, from your picture it looks like a Dash Cam is fitted I wonder if whoever fitted the camera disturbed the sensor? My sensor is mounted behind the dark patch at the top of your picture, attached is a picture of mine. There are a couple of small clear areas for the sensor. The sticky pads used are "use once" and the screen needs to be clean and dry. If it was disturbed and then stuck back it possibly has just dropped down and needs a new sticky pad. Good Luck Dave

Try BMW UK customer service I have always assumed age of vehicle would be from first registration, that is how it was with the Volvo's and Mercedes with the manufacture date only used for spares identification. Dave

At £0.71 per liter perhaps your the guy with the sheltered life LOL it's around £1.20 per liter here and with my 4.6 V8 X5 and a my wife's 3.0 twin turbo charged Subaru I sometimes fell like I pay the BP Chairman's salary personally!! On the plus side we know we are s saving the planet by encouraging others to plant trees. Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum The "automatic on" sensors for wipers and lights are in a housing behind the rear view mirror if the screen has been changed they could have come adrift. They stick to the windscreen and measure ambient light and refraction, if they have slipped then it could be why it thinks it's dark all the time. Un-clip the cover and make sure they are stuck to the windscreen correctly.you can buy new mounting pads. Dave

Morning Bourny Welcome to the Forum This is no doubt triggered by the all seeing "BMW computer system" which has flagged the Dealer that the car is 2 years old and doesn't show up on the service register. As you say the gap between manufacture and sale seems to be ignored. From your position the only thing I would be cautious of is if this were to effect your new vehicle warranty? Dave

No need for thanks that what the Forum is about, help and a sounding board. I must confess we have become so used to reliable fuel quality I hadn't considered that at all, oh what a sheltered life we lead here in the UK!! Watch out for those violations LOL Dave

Morning Paul My first port of call is www.realoem.com to locate what I suspect the issue is then www.newtis.info which is the same information that Dealers use for changing/repairing parts. That should help you track down the the bit you need. Good Luck Dave

Hi Simon Sorry I don't have a diesel to practice on, I do know it identified faulty glow plugs by number on my brother in-laws 535 it also showed injectors but as "no error" so I have never investigated. From your description "black smoke" on hard acceleration turning white I would say over-fueling turning white as it is burned away. My sons Toyota had a similar symptom he had his injectors tested at a local diesel/lorry specialist (a guy who serviced our horse lorry) 1 was leaking and 3 were way out of spec wear wise new injectors were a silly price so the specialist sent them off for refurbishment the pick up runs like new and quieter.(Might be my imagination) I would find a good diesel specialist to see what they can measure from what I have read the controller isnt horribly expensive so if your that far in then worth doing the lot.

Hi Carol I have used my version which is at least 8 years old now on my brother in-laws 535 which is a 2014 manufacture so I would think a current set of software would read up to date. When I brought my version it could only be used with windows 7 and I know that new versions can be used with Windows 10, There is also Carly for BMW which I know others use. Dave

Morning David Welcome to the forum sorry it's under stressful circumstances. Has the car been repaired? Did they give you the damaged parts? Did they actually show you the "damage" on the car? If you had hit something I would expect to see some evidence underneath, scraped or damaged under trays at a minimum, certainly to cause the damage described the impact wouldn't go un-noticed. Sadly if your car was repaired and they kept the parts removed there is no evidence for you to argue against. Dave

Welcome to the Forum Paul Looks stunning Dave

Morning Simon Is your smoke issue heavy on cold start then clearing as the engine warms up? Certainly if your smoke doesn't smell of oil or diesel then it would seem to point to water vapour. If your not using/losing coolant then this could just be condensation in the exhaust (fingers crossed) when my sons Toyota smoked it was because he had a leaky injector he had them sent off for refurbishment and problem fixed.The symptoms were, start up normal vapour on cold mornings but if he left it ticking over then he would get white diesel smoke but once moving it cleared, no smoke on acceleration or deceleration just if he left it to tick over. Dave

Hi Simon Well with the weather this weekend it was better to be in the garage under the X !! All went well 2 Arnott air bags fitted, ride height sensor ball joints greased everything else underneath seems OK though the rear sub-frame bushes are looking crusty. The aux water pump is a PITA it seals on O rings which I couldn't get on Saturday, so on the case today. Still they are probably 15 years old at least!! Sorry to hear you are near the edge, as you say a shed load of money has been thrown at the car by the previous owners. I have read that there are cast manifolds on ebay that are really well priced and good quality that plus a refurbed turbo and you will know you have many miles ahead with confidence Dave