Greydog

Hi Micheal Fingers crossed for you !! My 4.6 has the same size tyres so I know what you mean, obviously wind up occurs even in a straight line but is really noticeable when on lock parking reversing etc I would do the chalk mark test also every now and then open your door before you switch off if you hear a clicking sound after switch off the transfer case gear is damaged and will need attention.

Hi john www.newtis.info is a BMW technical information site as used by BMW Dealers so that should give all the information your looking for regarding tests and expected results Dave

Morning Micheal Welcome to the forum, tasty car. Tyre size looks OK (check the tyre info sticker on the door shut) but the Xdrive system is sensitive to different rolling radius of tyres front to rear, are your tyres fitted Run Flats (they should be I believe)? What your getting is wind up in the transfer case which can cause expensive damage. There is a ton of information on the Web on this subject which appears far worse with the staggered set up. BMW recommend only Star rated tyres be used to ensure the front/rear rolling radius is as close as possible. My X5 came with Yoko;s fitted when I brought it same symptoms as yours, I parked the car on a level piece of road and made a chalk mark on the tyre front and rear at ground level then got my son to roll the car forward while i watched the rear at 1 revolution chalk mark back to the ground the front had gone way past maybe 30 or 40mm. I fitted 4 Michelin Diamaris which fixed the issues currently running Bridgstones with no problems. Over the years I have run Pirelli, Dunlop and Falken but all 4 have been changed at the same time I always use the same fitting centre and we stand the tyres side by side to see if they are the same diameter before fitting. We did find a difference with the Dunlop's he sent the fronts back the replacements were a match. Bit of a Faff but cheaper than transmission damage. Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum The Steering Angle sensor is one of the few issues I have not had to deal with, I take it you have cleaned all the connectors/plugs with contact cleaner just in case it is a gungy joint that has a continuity failure when the system self tests at ignition on? Check www.newtis.info for BMW's test and check information. I have read about a few folks that have had to change the sensor and there are how too's on You Tube and the Pelikan parts website (US site but good info) Dave

Hi John Trevor is correct in suggesting a transmission specialist make sure they are ZF agents or approved repairers. Just a question I thought all ZF boxes fitted after 2006 were GA6HP19Z 6 speed boxes. Check www.realoem.com put in the last 7 digits of your Vin that will bring up your model then check the Gearbox section for numbers. I don't want to be a doom monger but if someone has refilled your box with the incorrect fluid it could kill the transmission. ZF recommend service/fluid and filter changes every 60 to 80000 miles BMW used to say sealed for life (read end of warranty as life) sadly they are not the only Manufacturer who says this. Fingers Crossed Dave

Welcome Liam Welcome to the Forum, You ask about the 5 series but your title says 430D I dont know if they are specked differently. My brother inlaws 535d estate does but it is 5 years old now so if I were you I would look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number in the search box that will call up your model. Check if a dipstick was listed, it could be an option if the on-board system gives you level check facility. Check www.newtis.info also if a dipstick is fitted that may give clues as to where it is hidden. Good Luck Dave

Morning Simon If your EGR valve is a couple of years old it may well be worth giving it a clean, if the car only had short journeys they can soot up quite quickly. A couple of web sites I use that are a great help are www.realoem.com a BMW parts site if you put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model it ensures you will be getting the right part for your car. Then www.newtis.info the same technical information used by BMW Dealers this will tell/show how to change your filter.I did read somewhere that the system is self bleeding but check on newtis to be sure. I hope these sites help Dave

Morning Sam If your sensors are OK and there is no change with your new sensor fitted, there could be a fault in the loom or the ABS unit could be faulty. I would be looking towards the ABS unit, there are several repairers BBA Reman, ECU Testing, Autotronics, ATPelectronics to name a few. I have used BBA and Ecu in the past with 100% success both businesses offered an exchange unit 24hr turn around. I hope you get to the bottom of the issue Dave

Hi Warren I would expect that connector blocks/plugs will be the same it's their position that might vary, even if they don't match as you have access to the donor car wire cutters and a soldering iron may solve the snag. Check the DME part numbers are interchangable in case the engine management function was different (fueling etc) your smart phone is your friend take lots of pictures so you can compare one to the other. Pictures are great when putting stuff back as well, they may even help someone else in your position. www.realoem.com will give you part number information put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and you will have access to all parts for your car. You can manually search the donor if you don't have the Vin. www.newtis.info is a BMW technical information site the same information as used by BMW Dealers that will help with how too's, torque settings etc. Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly Dave

Welcome to the Forum Warren Sorry to hear of your problem I am not a diesel driver so have little experience. As for swapping engines like for like no issue. Other units within the range? while the engine architecture (block, head etc) will be the same or very similar across the N47 range I would do a lot more research to find out if (a) someone else has done it, if so what were the pitfalls they encountered. (b) If possible I would get a different engine complete with all ancillary's and controls units. For example the DME failed on my X5 it required changes to a new DME, Body Control Unit, Ignition Barrel, Drivers Door lock and of course keys. So a like for like swap may be an easier route. Good Luck, let us know how it goes Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum BMW recommend only * rated tyres to avoid possible damage to the drive train, in particular the transfer box. So your budget will dictate. If you can, stick with a premium brand * rated tyre. Your car has the same size front and rear which will make the choice wider, those with a staggered set up (wider rear wheels) have to take more care in selection as differences in rolling radius front to rear cause the transmission problems. Enjoy your X Dave

Morning Mike Have a look at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site as used by Dealers you should find what you need there Dave

Morning Jack I would look at the cable feed from the body to the tailgate continual flexing can cause breaks to occur certainly checking out all the connections with a multimeter. I would check out www.realoem.com it's an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box and it will bring up your model. Search the section with the rear wiper and you will find diagrams and part numbers useful if you have to buy a part (second hand or new) Also take a look at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site as used by BMW Dealers, great for how too's. Finally I use BMW 1.4.0 software on an old Laptop (£9 from ebay) it reads codes and gives a description of the fault in English as an example I have a PDC fault with parking sensors front and rear the laptop tells me rear inner right sensor is the one. Just have to wait for the weather to improve to change it. Central locking could be the battery in the key is dead, or it could be the diversity antenna above the rear window it could even be related to your wiper issue Good luck with the fault finding Dave

I had a rattle in the door of the X5 in the end I took off the door card and discovered the loom to the window switches wasn't clipped in. Don;t know if someone had been in there before and hadn't clipped it back, that was the cure for me and best of all free. Dave

The key may be charged Ian but if you have changed the battery in the key fob (following your post above) the car will think it is a new key, so it will need reprogramming to the car. The sequence is shown in several You tube video's worth a try first as it's free a new key will be around £110 or so (mine was 4 years ago). Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian If you have replaced the battery then the key will need deprogramming to the car, there are lots of "how too's" just google it and read up. If that fails it could mean a new key from BMW. Good Luck Dave

The fuel filter is another one, it's hidden under neath a cover plate near the rear wheel they often are ignored but can cause issues with both petrol and diesel motors. The dealer will tell you the filter was checked and cleaned at service?? Now you have seen the evidence yourself.Check out the EGR valve as well if there is soot about that will probably be blocked partially if not fully and that can cause a lack of power. Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Have you talked to the Dealer get the correct part number then search online for the best deal Dave

Morning John and Welcome ??????? Never heard or read anything like this before, baffled. I thought drag cars were the only ones with lockable front brakes to heat the rear tyres? Be interesting to know what they come back with Dave

Morning Simon I have read that the rubber seals on the hard pipe connections can start to degrade/crack. I would check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up the parts lists for your car. Check the engine section for diagrams of the ducting and seals then work your way through them looking for the failure points. www.newtis.info will help with descriptions and how too's. Wing mirror motors are a common failure you only need one to fail and it has a canceling effect on the other. Simple enough to fix and lots of repair stuff motors and gear kits on that well known auction site. Dismantling the mirror housing is fiddly (worth investing in trim removal tools) start at the bottom and take care and don't rush. Once the outer covers are off it's straight forward, my drivers mirror had failed but I changed both motors while I was at it. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Could be soft battery in the key which should recharge when in the ignition, the diversity antenna is a known issue but mainly on 5 series could be worth investigating though. Check www.realoem.com to get the right part number for your car. Dave

Morning Your engine is N57 which if memory serves has a lower timing chain and two upper chains that drive the cam shafts. Changing them and their associated guides and tension devices is major surgery. So would not be a normal service item. Having said that the BMW 3.0d is recognised as one of the worlds great engines and generally is as tough as old boots. However like all mechanical devices even with correct maintenance some times things break but normally if looked after these engines are capable of achieving massive mileages. My brother inlaw has a 535 touring which he uses for regular commutes into Northern Europe 317000 kilometers and no issues so far other than failing diversity antenna's. Dave

Morning Mick Sounds as though you have a Diversity antenna failure, check out www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number in the search box it will bring up your cars parts list, search the Audio section for your system. www.newtis.info will help with where stuff is, how to check it and change it if needed. Some good reading for your school day!! I would start with the diversity antenna make sure it is working my brother in law has had 2 failures with his 5 series moisture is the problem. Dave

Hi Ian X5's love "bonging you" checks your heart rate and how fat your wallrt is feeling. Lights self check (along with a lot of other stuff) when you turn on the ignition, the rear light cluster's can suffer from corrosion the low voltage used in the self test looses continuity so thinks there is a lamp failure. I would check and clean the lamp holders in the rear swap lamps around see how it goes. Good can of contact cleaner and some wet and dry then a dab of Vaseline has worked for me. Dave

Morning Gav What sketch, where? Two types of Nav system were fitted Business and Professional, if you have a screen up front it will be Professional. Both systems came as CD or DVD, at 2003 your car is on the change over, the Navigation computer in the left cubby needs either a CD or DVD (not interchangable) if your Nav computer has DVD on the front then you need the Professional High DVD. If the computer does not have DVD on the front then you will need the corresponding CD maps. Do you have a Nav computer? Are the lights on on the Nav computer? Can you eject the disc to see what it is