Greydog

Woo Hoo well done Matey perseverance pays off At least you know just about everything under the bonnet is good, now enjoy your X

From this and your previous posts I would change your garage. 1st They disconnect your radio for no reason then tell you its to dangerous to lift the LPG tank to put right their error !!!!!!! Well they lifted it to change the battery and unplug your radio?? 2nd They cant change the FSR ? it's a 20 minute job for goodness sake (search you tube) the only tool needed is a cross head screw driver to remove trim, the FSR clips in and out. A failed FSR can cause all sorts of issues including unexplained Battery drain (just Google it) As for charging the posts under the bonnet are the correct place but it will take up to 24hrs to fully re-charge the battery with a decent charger Ctek or similar a quick 1/2hr burst wont do it. If the Battery has failed it should be under warranty so should be a free exchange, assuming your original garage fitted the correct rated battery? If not there may be some cost.

Having problems replying for some reason??? Do you have a code reader? I use BMW 1.4.0 cheap and cheerful but works really well for me give fault descriptions in English not just numbers. The MAF is it the right one for the engine or is faulty (if its second hand it maybe? even new not unheard of) The emissions pump is under the air filter housing mine runs for about 2 mins or so on cold start.The vacuum control is on the back of the inlet manifold if its US then it can cause all sorts of issues. Just spoke with the guy who services mine (ex BMW Tech) and he said have a look at www.meeknet.co.uk then click Tim's BMW loads of stuff on the V8's (I just looked wish he had told me about it sooner) I also use www.realoem.com a lot for drawings and part numbers

Morning Alan Have you read the OBD for codes? I know originally you said you had a Cam sensor Fault. From the symptoms my instinct says the fault is on the inlet side somewhere. Just a re-run of what you have done fuel pump, Filter, MAF. Coils and plugs That leaves the vacuum system and emission control. Vacuum system, on the back of the inlet manifold is the vacuum control valve that can cause issues if the diaphragm is split or sticking or any of the vacuum hoses are collapsed internally. It is linked to the oil separator but this is a votex type and don't normally give to many problems themselves. However the vacuum system can upset its operation. Remember the cats will be free when cold but not when up to temp Fingers crossed Dave

Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your VIN number in and it will bring up your car check the interior it may show part numbers. Or checkout good old fleabay there is normally several on there, just be aware the drivers seat bolster is a high wear item. Any model up to 2006 should be OK.

Yay, result, really happy for you Mike. An X5 with all the bells and whistles can draw up to 60 amps without the engine running !!!

When you say it wont start is it turning over quickly? Or struggling? My guess would be battery or starter motor. Battery top of the list low voltage + X5 = lots of scary messages my 4.4 threw Trans Fail Safe, ABS/SRS Suspension Inactive lights for a few weeks new battery cured it all. I have also read that a failing starter will draw massive current which causes all the scary lights to come on.

Hi you don't say which set up you have ? Do you have the Business radio or the the full Navigation package? I take it you have checked the obvious fuses connectors etc ? I would also say that mine with Nav has fuses in the boot and in the main fuse board under the glove box.

I wonder if when you spoke to Aviva (remember they use call centres) if the person you spoke with was a bit slow and confused Alpine for "Alpina" and thought you were doing a power upgrade? Just trying to think why they would refuse cover

Sounds like a pre-cat back fire There are EGR breather tubes that run at the back of the engine above the gearbox if one is split or perished it could cause issues? Blocked CAT will cause to much back pressure never experienced it myself but I have read symptoms are poor performance hesitation etc. It may also cause misfire in the exhaust due to trapped un-burnt fuel? Oil leaks on the valve covers are almost mandatory on the BMW V8 !!! I don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com enter the site put in the last 7 digits of your VIN and it will bring up your cars build spec, then search the EGR drawings it will give you an idea how they are routed. Same for all the systems on the car, as far as the CAT goes other than change I don't know what to suggest 2nd hand maybe?

After the doors are locked the X5 shuts down all systems takes about 15 mins the indicator lamp beside the gearchange is last. The draw then is tiny to maintain clock and other memory function items I believe. Not sure if the cigarette lighter stays live on the E70, or you could take a live feed from the charging point under the bonnet. Most of the cameras have motion and vibration sensors to turn them on when the vehicle is parked. So I would say it is a question of (1) how much power does the camera take when recording (2) how long is it on for after being triggered? (3) how busy is it where it is parked. My friends Discovery is wired to the cigarette lighter live via its own fused spur and survived 2 weeks at Heathrow long stay.

With the X5 E53 it isn't a horrendous job, un-clip the trim under the headlamp undo 4 screws (use a magnetic socket) and slide the headlamp forwards. The first time I thought what a faff but it saves the skin on your hands and is a five minute job.

If it was meant to be easy it wouldn't be an X5 ??? Still could be worse it could be a Toyota or a french poo I have read you have to take big bits off to remove the headlamp on those

Have you checked your power steering fluid? If you could hear the noise when stopped I would not think its wheel bearings as they wouldn't be turning the power steering pump would though. I would check and top up the power steering pump and get it checked for leaks (it shouldn't lose fluid it;s a closed system)

Have you tried unplugging the Vanos solenoids I had a sticky one, if I started cold it gave a 5 sec rattle but if I turned on the ignition let all the lights cycle out on the dash no rattle. Changed the drivers bank solenoid and no issue for the last 18 months (that's tempting fate)

Bummer Does the emissions pump run on start up? It is designed to push extra air in to balance rich mixture when the engine is cold, normally only runs for 3 or 4 mins (on mine anyway) Probably going over old ground but thinking out loud. Have you checked the MAF, check the plug clean the contacts, have you isolated the LPG system pulled the fuse to make sure its not part of the problem? When were the plugs last changed? Check the Vanos solenoid plugs. Sorry I cant be more help other than throw in my thoughts on where I would look

Welcome and enjoy your new car Remember that many people on forums are looking for answers to an issue, what isn't compared is the number of issues against the number of the model manufactured. Things I would check when you have the car First. Check at cold start up there are no noises or rattles the engine should be smooth and quiet. Check the service history and any receipts for work you can check MOT online and see any advisories. Second. While the engine is starting to warm up check all the electrics work. I mean everything, press every button and make sure it operates as it should check the operation of the air suspension check auto lights and wipers along with all seat functions. These are complicated beasts and there are no "cheap" fixes with these cars. Third. Test drive, I dont know what you are/were driving but the steering may feel a little heavy (they all are) gear changes should be smooth both up and down the box test kick down then test the sport and manual functions on the box. Give it a good hard run and when slowing from 70mph if there is any vibration in the brake pedal it most likley will be the Brake reaction bushes (common) the X5 bushes are one of the parts which wear quickly about 80k is their life. Tyre wear is another indicator of bush wear. Hopefully all is good, now drive and enjoy. I woould as a precaution have an oil and filter change and get the gearbox serviced. BMW say sealed for life but ZF who make the box advise a service at 80 to 120000 km (50 to 80000 miles) Hope this helps

Got to be something in the fuel system? Fingers crossed its a simple cheap fix.

You need either someone with BMW 1.4.0 software on a laptop or get a copy yourself (Ebay) you will be able to read the codes and see what the issue is. As the car runs smoothly on Gas but not on petrol it points to be something on the fuel delivery side. Fuel filter is OK so next likely suspects in no particular order, Fuel Pump, MAF, excess fuel return system, Injectors, fuel rail pressure.

I would get the battery checked BMW's are power hungry beasts if your battery is below its best low voltage can throw up all sorts of spurious unrelated faults. Starter motors on the X5;s can be a pain they begin to draw excessive current causing starting issues and throwing unrelated fault codes. I would start with a battery check simple things first

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem or injectors. As it only happens before the engine is fully warm does the emission air pump run?

From your description it sound s like the hesitation only occurs when the engine is cold as LPG only activates after a set engine temperature is reached. You say once on LPG it runs fine with no hesitation? Then if you switch back to petrol its still fine? How much fuel is in the tank? Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed? Try taking off the fuel cap sound s daft but if its vent is blocked it can cause issues

I would check all the connections and plugs to the Headlamps especially the earths, get some contact cleaner and spend a little time making sure all the plugs are clean and seated properly. If the lights are HID Xenon don't forget the ballasts (normally mounted under the headlamp)

Is that all lights or just headlights? How handy are you with a muti meter? If all lamps relays and fuses have been checked and are OK then you need to get the codes read which should give a clue. My thinking would be check 1. Bulbs 2. Fuses 3. Relays. 4. Switch 5. Light Control Module. If these are OK get the codes read