Greydog

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Come on tell us your issue, it can't be that embarrassing Dave

The drawing below shows the Fuel Pump and Filter and Regulator for your car 2008 118i so who ever told you you don't have one is mistaken. The oil level sensors that trigger the OBC are not accurate as Upt'North has said use the dip stick always, putting in a litre at a time could be damaging the engine

Hi Phil Not far behind you with age but with me the thirst to know and understand out weighs me not being as bendy as I once was, I have two sons for the jobs that require being fit and bendy ENJOY the X Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Mechanics who can't be bothered ?? Have a look at www.realoem.com either look for your model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the drawings to get an Idea of where the pipes/sensors are then you can check them. Certainly with all sensors tripped I would be checking all connectors as well as pipe work. Google BMW Specialists there is a register so you should be able to find one near you Hope this helps Dave

Morning Brad Welcome to the Forum You say "it asks for oil" how are you checking the oil? or are you relying on the OBC display. At the volumes of oil your getting through I would expect to be able to (a) see evidence of it being burnt, smoke, smell etc. Over filling can cause more issues than is realised. If oil is finding it's way into the exhaust it will clog the Catalytic Converter so that could well be the cause of it failing. You say spark plugs don't look good ? Sooty, wet with fuel or oil? You have a fuel pump issue confirmed by diagnostics certainly that won't help like wise has anyone checked the fuel filter? Often a forgotten service item. If compression is good and cylinders hold compression then it is a case of finding what is causing crank case pressure to push oil into the exhaust killing the catalyser. Just my thoughts based on the information posted Dave

Welcome Barrootz

Morning Barrootz and Welcome to the Forum Wow what a find, lucky man You have started the process definitely change brake fluid (brake fluid is hydroscopic so absorbs moisture over time this can give spongy pedal or worse internal rust on brake parts) coolant again I would change as a matter of course. Transmission I would talk to a ZF specialist for advice as the miles are so low, I would also inspect the suspension bushes carefully they are rubber just like tyres they can perish with age. For parts information www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Also look at www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical Information site the same information that Dealers use. I notice the steering wheel is on the wrong side so there is also a US site www.pelicanparts.com they have some great "How Too's" and good information with pictures. ENJOY Dave

Welcome Phil The 3.0ltr diesel X5's get high 30's early 40's so I would expect at least the same maybe more when driving like Miss Daisy's Chauffeur As far as reliability is concerned early BMW 2ltr diesels suffered timing chain issues but apparently later engines are OK. I have never been a fan of extended service schedules so personally I change oil and filter at 5k intervals. It can't hurt. Get at BMW specific code reader it will (a) allow you to know about any issues or potential issues (b) allow you to make decisions about whether you do the work or pay others. A couple of sites to help www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical information site the same information that is used by BMW Dealers. Information and knowledge are power when negotiating Most important ENJOY your car Dave.

Morning Conor Welcome to the Forum I think you should have a button to the left of your Volume Knob (two little cars on it) give it a push. Top right of your nav screen should display the Radio station and TP push the button TP disappears no more interruptions Dave

Welcome Kit What a great looking X top spec to ENJOY Dave

Morning Mick Welcome to the Forum BMW Drivers are all far to careful to need to worry about Speed Cameras 😈 I have Speed Camera alerts on the sat nav, obviously only fixed cameras but very useful in areas I am new to Dave

Hi Stu Like the number plate, I have an X5 plate on mine. It might be worth trying LED headlamp bulbs one of our sons runs a Toyota the lights were totally rubbish, he put some LED lamps in and its much better, still not brilliant but at least he can see where he is going. Remember to get LED's with built in resistors or you will be driven mad with bulb failure warnings.(ask me how I know) If you do get OEM units if you get 2002 or earlier you can split the lamp (Sept 02 on wards you cant look for the little manufacturing clock cast in the plastic body) the glue is soft and if you use a heat gun carefully you can remove the lens. I did this to clean the lens inside and out with a polishing kit brings them up like new. While they were off I fitted CCFL halo rings then re-assembled and resealed the glue with the heat gun and a glue gun where there were gaps. For my Halo's I took a feed from the Main DME loom so my halo's come on with ignition but remain on for 20 seconds after ignition off and key out. Dave

Morning Stu My 4.4 was a shock had to get out and walk round the front to check they were on ?? My 4.6 came with HID as standard. If the picture above is your car it looks as though the head lamp units are aftermarket to begin with. I cured my 4.4 by fitting OEM HID units from a specialist breaker (Quarry Motors) they came complete with lamps and Ballast's. Dave

Morning Greg Welcome to the Forum What an entrance, what a car ENJOY For what it is worth my next door neighbour works for BMW and ran M3 and M4 back to back as company cars he always said the M4 was the best ride Dave

Oh well back to the horse !! That's if I can still get on it ? Mind they will probably have banned them to due to methane?

Darn it !! That means I have to keep the x5 another 24 years I wonder if they will still be selling petrol then??

Hi Aaron Welcome to the Forum 25 years I believe You may get more accurate information from the DVLA web site Dave

If the blower motor's are not working aircon not working heater not working it will be the FSR that needs changing Take a look at https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-X5/28-ELEC-Blower_Motor_Final_Stage_Replacement/28-ELEC-Blower_Motor_Final_Stage_Replacement.htm The only difference is as it is an American site steering is on the wrong side so they dont have pedals in the way.

Dont forget the suppressor if you are getting 5v it could be your issue or part of it Dave

That doesn't sound right, does the light work with an independent 12v feed? Have you checked newtis? Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Nice car if the service history is patchy I would get a service done to give peace of mind, plus a Gearbox Service then enjoy. You can check on BMW VinDecoder put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up the build sheet for your car, that will confirm if you have folding mirrors or not.If they are there they may need turning on via the diagnostic program or there is a fault it will show up. You will need a BMW specific program (BMW 1.4.0 , INPA/ISTA or similar) or a BMW Specialist (Cheaper than a Dealer) Enjoy that BMW X5 Dave

No once these little pests decide to go they go so it means a new FSR should have said unplug and fit a new one The final stage resistor (FSR) helps manage all heater panel functions, Fan Speed, Heat distribution the whole thing. If your getting erratic fan speed or no fan at all no heat from one side or another it will normally be the FSR Google BMW FSR and have a read

Morning Steve My guess is the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) or Hedgehog is starting to go. These cause all sorts of silly issues it isnt a difficult job just fiddly. Google it The FSR is buried behind the heater and accessed from the drivers footwell, you need to take off the kick plate under the dash remove the carpet strip that runs along the top of the tunnel by the hand brake. No special tools just a cross head screw driver. Seat right back to give maximum room then the fiddly bit if your hands are like mine, getting you big mit up behind the heater to unclip the FSR and unplug it (I found it easier to remove the FSR then the plug) Total job took me about 10 mins. Dave

Morning Kevin Welcome. I take it you mean the high level brake light ? First check the light put an independent 12v supply to it to see if it lights up. Second check the wiring again for continuity and power, what voltage do you get when the brake is pressed at the connector. Third I remember reading that there is a suppressor in line that can cause issues sometimes. Have a look at www.newtis.info for wiring diagrams and information. Dave

Morning William Welcome to the Forum With your car I have read its all underneath behind access flaps in the shielding underneath. Take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical Information site (same as Dealers use) you should find everything you need there regarding service information, socket sizes and torque settings. You can also use www.realoem.com to ensure you have the correct part numbers for service parts and other spares, put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number into the search box it will bring up your model. Dave