Greydog

Read this thread Nigel seems to have had a good result with his repair. Be prepared for a fat bill though

OK, when he fitted the Xenon lights make sure they have the self leveling motors fitted, turn on lights start car you should see the lights beams rise and fall as the system self tests. Xenon lights should have self leveling and wash system I believe for an MOT here is an excerpt from the AA. LightingProducts on the lens or light source that obviously reduce the light's intensity or change its colour will become a reason for failure – applies to front/rear position lamps, registration plate lamps, stop lamps, rear fog and direction indicators, Headlight requirements are updated to take account of the particular characteristics of High Intensity Discharge (HID) lamps. HID headlights can cause dazzle if they are dirty or aimed too high, so they are generally (if light output exceeds 2000 lumens) fitted in conjunction with headlamp cleaning and levelling systems. Where HID or LED dipped beam headlamps are fitted the tester will switch on the headlamps and check the operation of any headlamp levelling and cleaning devices fitted. The car will fail if a headlamp levelling or cleaning device is inoperative or otherwise obviously defective. If a headlamp bulb is not seated correctly the resulting beam pattern will be indistinct and this will result in a test fail.

I would be concerned about a bumper and headlight change has it been accident damaged? I would guess the bumper is after market as I thought all X5 models had headlamp wash systems as standard (yours did obviously) If the bumper was OEM it would have the holes to fit the headlamp washers.

If the DSC is operating normally when you turn on the ignition the DSC light in the centre of the dash ( orange triangle with a circle around it) should light up and go out on engine start. If you press the DSC button with the engine running the light should come on. BMW recommend only turning it off (light on) in exceptional conditions Deep Snow, Soft Sand, really muddy tracks etc. We have towed a horse trailer across slippery muddy fields at shows, and I have been in some inhospitable spots while out shooting and have never touched the DSC button. If the light comes on at start then it could be the switch or a fuse, whatever it is tell the seller and ask them to fix it don't fall for any " it only costs a fiver on ebay bullsh^t" if it's that simple they can fix it if they want the sale.

You say the car is in the garage? Is that the dealer who you brought from? Or is it another? If the original dealer hasn't agreed to the repairs you may have an issue. You say it went in for a new fly wheel and clutch was that with the dealer? Again I think if it wasn't with their knowledge you may have a problem. As I understand it you should have gone straight back to the dealer and either asked for your money back, or asked the dealer to repair all faults or pay for them to be done. I would ask Citizens Advice

Hope all is well with the X now you have the new battery? Plus I hope they lifted the tank and reconnected your radio for free ( Don't understand why they disconnected it in the first place)

The rear washer is activated by pushing the wiper stalk away from you, first position is rear wipe second wash. It shouldn't operate when the front washers are operated. The pipe you see may be the headlamp wash system they work when the lights are on and washers operated or the wash button on the end of the stalk is pressed. It may be that a none return valve in the headlamp wash has been broken or disconnected, if they aren't working I would have a look and connect it up. Blanking it off will save water but I believe at MOT time the headlamp wash will need to work (I could be wrong here)

Do you have Sat Nav with screen or the Business radio? First I would check the simple things like all connections and plugs. If you have Nav all the main connections are in the boot under the floor and the spare wheel and in the left side cubby. The Business radio connectors are behind the radio in the dash, as a bump causes it I would suspect a loose connection.

What model/engine are you considering? I only have experience with V8 versions but here goes, History is important and when trying/testing make sure absolutely everything works as it should, every button every knob (there are no cheap fixes if there were then why hasn't it been done?) Get the car up to temperature and give it some beans changes should be smooth both up and down the box in all modes D, S, M. When slowing to a stop there should be no jerks shudders or clunks. If there are walk away there are a lot out there. All the engines should pull strongly and be smooth and quiet, temperature should be in the middle of the gauge and not move. The gearboxes are used in many models by other manufacturers (BMW choose to say they are sealed for life) yet the box suppliers have fluid and filter change service intervals. With both X5's I have had the gearbox fluids and filters changed along with the transfer box and diff oils as a matter of course (preventative maintenance if you like) and have had no issues (touches wood) Remember by the nature of a Forum it is mainly for people looking for answers to a problem so you will read more tales of woe. I don't think there is any difference in reliability in BMW than any other manufacturer so at 120k providing the History is sound and the car drives well then I wouldn't be put off. We brought ours as a cheap tow car for a horse trailer after selling our horse lorry. The first was a 4.4 that was written off by a falling tree a good car. The current one is a 4.6is even though it was low miles (68k now 94k) I still did the fluids and filters and it drives really well. If there are issues with X5's I would say suspension bushes (made from finest butter) I have heard the argument "it's a 2.5 ton car" well they knew that when they made it so should have bushes that last more than about 50k. I have had no air suspension problems but have read of many who have, but again that is what a forum is for. Good luck with the test

This used to work, worth a try http://www.bmw-warranty.co.uk/Pages/CarDetails.asp... Enter the reg number of the car and press NEXT, helpfully it will pull up the details of the car including the VIN. Keep that page open. Then follow these instructions courtesy of the BMW Owner's Club: 1> Click http://www.bmw.co.uk/bmwuk/homepage/ 2> From the BMW Owner Area menu, choose Genuine BMW Parts 3> From the menu on the left had side of the page click Parts Catalogue 4> From the lower part of the screen click Electronic parts catalogue. Find genuine spare parts and accessories for your BMW. 5> Use the username eu111111 and the password bmwetk1 6> Enter the last 7 digits of your VIN number and click >> 7> From the top of the next window, click Options. This displays a new window with the information on extras.

Just search Ebay for BMW X5 E53 Door mirrors

I am not aware of a kit. You have a lot of checking to do, you need to establish. If your existing mirrors have the motors fitted and the loom in place you will need the drivers door master switch witch includes the mirror operating button. The complete mirror assemblies are horrendous in cost (even on Ebay) With any luck all the wiring is there by default but I am not sure. If it is then it's mirror motors and micro switches and the master switch. Then with BMW 1.4.0 or INPA you can code them to work Good Luck let us know how you get on

First was it a private or trade sale? If you brought from a garage then you have the Sale of Goods Act on your side. The supplying garage either fix the defects or you ask for your money back. Private sale it may be more difficult.

My first X5 had a Dynavin unit fitted they are a little more expensive than some advertised but it worked really well. I have been told that the newer ones keep the OBC functions as well. Mine had Radio, DVB TV, Ipod, CD/DVD, Bluetooth Have you checked out their website

No one can help you without information??? Does your car have navigation or a basic business radio??? Most cars are prewired for Bluetooth as I said earlier if you look for the part numbers and buy the correct parts it is then plug and play. If these things are important to you why buy a car without them?

Oh and WELCOME

Try looking on www.Realoem.com put in the last 7 digits of your vin number and it will bring up the build for your car and what accessories you can get Once you have the part numbers you can look at many sources from BMW £££££ to Ebay you could talk to Jason at Chiptune in Uxbridge about engine upgrades he is experienced with Beemers and well recommended on other sites

The cam shaft sensors are at the front of each head have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in and it will bring up your cars build. it has drawings and pictures that will help identify the part for you Good luck

I use a BMW Specialist (less than half BMW labour rates) there doesn't seem to be much difference between OEM and decent quality after market brake parts from my experience both Cotswold BMW and Euro Car Parts have deals if your DIY ing. Have the brakes always squealed or has it started recently? I would make sure that they have been reassembled correctly with anti squeal shims in place if the pads were changed and the shims stuck to the old pads they may be missing?

If the pads were changed has everything been reassembled correctly? BMW supply anti squeal paste (copper slip) as part of the brake replacement kit. Another thought were the pads upgraded?

If it fixes the problem RESULT shame they are so secretive about an obviously known issue and fix

Have you tried Eurocar Parts, or Aerosus. A friend got his front struts complete from Aerosus from memory they came from Germany in about 3 days.

Morning Have you tried talking to Independent BMW Specialists they will probably be more practical and as the kit is OEM I can't see how it will have an effect on Service History. I use an Independent BMW Porsche Specialist (he is an Ex BMW Master Tech) his work shop is fully equipped and he is by far and away more practical than the Dealer. Carrying out repair where the dealer just wants to replace parts, he and his staff are knowledgeable flexible and half the cost on labour so no brainer for me.

Hells teeth 8 speed gearbox!! 34 mpg!! how spoiled are you, while us poor old folk have to make do with only 5 speeds. To be serious that is really good MPG and shows what progress has been made in a few short years, my friend with the E70 4.0d (same engine gearbox as you just some turbo/EM changes to give added HP) and he is lucky to get over 30 mpg. May have something to do with his lead boots though, plus his commute is in heavy traffic. Me, retired for nearly 20 years so no commute and can choose route and travel times to suit me. The most queuing these days is in and out of Country Fairs and Horse Shows with the box on the back. Enjoy your E70 thats why we have them

We are looking at an E53 on California plates where running/operating costs are different? My reply was based on personal/family experience here in the UK which tells me there is not as much as you may think or have calculated. First due to my age and record insurance is £358 a year, road tax due to cars age (anything before 55 plate) same cost £280 a year. Servicing based on one a year around £600. The 3.0i was a little dearer last service at the same BMW specialist. My Daughter in Law ran a 3.0i one of the reasons we looked at X5's when looking for a cheap tow car for a horse trailer. In everyday driving the 3.0 averaged low 20's mpg (cant give exact figures as the car is sold) I wont count the 4.4 as that ran on LPG but my 4.6 over the last 2k has returned 19.1 mpg, Having run many V8's I budget for 15 so this for me is a good result, as this includes pulling a horse trailer and paddling around in mud during the shooting season plus although I am old I am not a member of the driving Miss daisy club. So even if it were £75 pm that is one trip to the pumps, for me in real everyday use that isn't enough difference to sway me towards the 3.0i. Looking at the OP's add link the car is on standard 17" rims (supplied as a spare in the UK) not staggered, the Nav was a non OEM system and then there was the mileage 167k plus the fact he is in California where car choice is huge? Hence my advice to keep looking for a better specced car and don't dismiss the V8's I see you run an E70 how close are your actual consumption figures to BMW's in everyday use, a mile away I guess, So for me even if it's a Diesel my guess would be mid to high 20's (I have a friend with a 4.0d) that still doesn't sway me from the V8, just personal taste. Wouldn't it be boring if we all were tha same. However I have an old work colleague who has just brought one of the new Mitsubishi Hybrid 4x4s, very impressive vehicle if I go green (not that diesel is green by a long chalk) that will be the direction.