Greydog

Hi Michael Sorry my car is an X5 E53 model so quite different. Check www.realoem.com to see what reverse camera equipment is needed but when buying after market stuff we pay our money and take our chances I am afraid. Having said that my reverse camera is not BMW it's after market and has worked faultlessly for 9 years now (thats blown it) Dave

There is a register of BMW Specialists I would Google them and find one close to you then talk to them. t I would think they would charge about an hours labour for coding Dave

The roller in the centre of the two middle outlets is showing the red dots isn't it? In the engine bay right hand side as you look in there is a twin solenoid that controls heat left side right side they often go sticky or just stop first time I just unplugged it and re-connected all good. But after the engine rebuild I had to replace it to get things toasty in the cabin.

Pretty straight forward as long as you buy the correct kit plenty of "how too's" on the net as well Dave

Hi Micheal It's a straight swap apart from a little coding required the codes are HU_NBT > 3000 HMI > DISPLAY_SIZE_RESOLUTION = 8.8_1280x480 HU_NBT > 3001 EXBOX > DISPLAY_VARIANTE = breites_display ENJOY Dave

Morning Chris The web site is so that you can be sure you have the right part number, not to order from. Use the part number when talking to BMW parts people or Factors so you know you have the correct part. I have used Cotswold BMW in the past they have been good on price and fast with mail order as an example, I also use ECP an other factors but always use the part numbers. Oil consumption is a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question as it depends on so many variables, engine wear, oil grade used, leaks, turbo issues the list is long. I believe your model has a sensor and a dip stick personally I would use the dip stick, I dont trust sensors and over filling with oil is as bad for a modern engine as low oil. Dave

Morning Lee My X5 suffered electrical issues that almost drove me to the edge, the only solution offered was changing modules. Eventually I traced it to one of the earth points in the boot. BMW use a Comb type connector so that many items can be connected to a common point, with mine I removed it cleaned it and the area around it used some electrical connection paste (same as used to seat the chip in a computer) then tightened everything up. Issues gone !! It still took a few months for me to actually believe they were gone for good, so I worked my way through the earth points (there are several) making sure the mounting points were all clean and tight. Don't know if it apples here but its free and if it works Dave

Welcome Mike You say "back in a 320" so welcome back as well Looks great ENJOY Dave

Morning Rhys To many unknowns here but here you go! You say serviced was that an oil change or a full service? Brake or brakes binding? Wheel bearings binding? What mileage has the car covered as general engine wear will have an effect Then last but not least there is your right foot? Can't help on mpg as my 4.6is shows an average of 18.8 mpg over the last 76000 miles (distance covered since engine rebuild) Dave

Hi Mark First make sure the part number is correct if you brought from a Factor they should change it if it's wrong. Good luck Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum If the flap is removable logic says there will probably be a replacement part for it. Check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box and it will bring up your model then search for the bit you need. You can also look at www.newtis.info this one is a technical information site the same as the information used by BMW Dealers. I don't think the risk is high of driving without it, for me it is about originality "if it had one it should be fitted" Dave

Morning Mark Have you had the codes read? You really need a BMW specific code reader it really does make a difference. Have you carried out any other work? If so I would back track carefully to make sure that everything is plugged in and secure, if everything is OK then get the codes read it could be several things from pressure sensor in the fuel rail to throttle body investigating the engine codes will be more specific. You say you have swapped the MAF was it new or second hand? Was it the correct part for your car, are the part numbers the same? Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Come on tell us your issue, it can't be that embarrassing Dave

The drawing below shows the Fuel Pump and Filter and Regulator for your car 2008 118i so who ever told you you don't have one is mistaken. The oil level sensors that trigger the OBC are not accurate as Upt'North has said use the dip stick always, putting in a litre at a time could be damaging the engine

Hi Phil Not far behind you with age but with me the thirst to know and understand out weighs me not being as bendy as I once was, I have two sons for the jobs that require being fit and bendy ENJOY the X Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Mechanics who can't be bothered ?? Have a look at www.realoem.com either look for your model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the drawings to get an Idea of where the pipes/sensors are then you can check them. Certainly with all sensors tripped I would be checking all connectors as well as pipe work. Google BMW Specialists there is a register so you should be able to find one near you Hope this helps Dave

Morning Brad Welcome to the Forum You say "it asks for oil" how are you checking the oil? or are you relying on the OBC display. At the volumes of oil your getting through I would expect to be able to (a) see evidence of it being burnt, smoke, smell etc. Over filling can cause more issues than is realised. If oil is finding it's way into the exhaust it will clog the Catalytic Converter so that could well be the cause of it failing. You say spark plugs don't look good ? Sooty, wet with fuel or oil? You have a fuel pump issue confirmed by diagnostics certainly that won't help like wise has anyone checked the fuel filter? Often a forgotten service item. If compression is good and cylinders hold compression then it is a case of finding what is causing crank case pressure to push oil into the exhaust killing the catalyser. Just my thoughts based on the information posted Dave

Welcome Barrootz

Morning Barrootz and Welcome to the Forum Wow what a find, lucky man You have started the process definitely change brake fluid (brake fluid is hydroscopic so absorbs moisture over time this can give spongy pedal or worse internal rust on brake parts) coolant again I would change as a matter of course. Transmission I would talk to a ZF specialist for advice as the miles are so low, I would also inspect the suspension bushes carefully they are rubber just like tyres they can perish with age. For parts information www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. Also look at www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical Information site the same information that Dealers use. I notice the steering wheel is on the wrong side so there is also a US site www.pelicanparts.com they have some great "How Too's" and good information with pictures. ENJOY Dave

Welcome Phil The 3.0ltr diesel X5's get high 30's early 40's so I would expect at least the same maybe more when driving like Miss Daisy's Chauffeur As far as reliability is concerned early BMW 2ltr diesels suffered timing chain issues but apparently later engines are OK. I have never been a fan of extended service schedules so personally I change oil and filter at 5k intervals. It can't hurt. Get at BMW specific code reader it will (a) allow you to know about any issues or potential issues (b) allow you to make decisions about whether you do the work or pay others. A couple of sites to help www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model. www.newtis.info this one is a BMW Technical information site the same information that is used by BMW Dealers. Information and knowledge are power when negotiating Most important ENJOY your car Dave.

Morning Conor Welcome to the Forum I think you should have a button to the left of your Volume Knob (two little cars on it) give it a push. Top right of your nav screen should display the Radio station and TP push the button TP disappears no more interruptions Dave

Welcome Kit What a great looking X top spec to ENJOY Dave

Morning Mick Welcome to the Forum BMW Drivers are all far to careful to need to worry about Speed Cameras 😈 I have Speed Camera alerts on the sat nav, obviously only fixed cameras but very useful in areas I am new to Dave

Hi Stu Like the number plate, I have an X5 plate on mine. It might be worth trying LED headlamp bulbs one of our sons runs a Toyota the lights were totally rubbish, he put some LED lamps in and its much better, still not brilliant but at least he can see where he is going. Remember to get LED's with built in resistors or you will be driven mad with bulb failure warnings.(ask me how I know) If you do get OEM units if you get 2002 or earlier you can split the lamp (Sept 02 on wards you cant look for the little manufacturing clock cast in the plastic body) the glue is soft and if you use a heat gun carefully you can remove the lens. I did this to clean the lens inside and out with a polishing kit brings them up like new. While they were off I fitted CCFL halo rings then re-assembled and resealed the glue with the heat gun and a glue gun where there were gaps. For my Halo's I took a feed from the Main DME loom so my halo's come on with ignition but remain on for 20 seconds after ignition off and key out. Dave

Morning Stu My 4.4 was a shock had to get out and walk round the front to check they were on ?? My 4.6 came with HID as standard. If the picture above is your car it looks as though the head lamp units are aftermarket to begin with. I cured my 4.4 by fitting OEM HID units from a specialist breaker (Quarry Motors) they came complete with lamps and Ballast's. Dave