Greydog

Morning Tony 

Sadly many never close out their posts when the problem is fixed

Find a good transmission specialist (preferably ZF) and get the box serviced they will tell you what the problem is. Gearboxes like engines should be serviced but rarely are Good Luck lets hope it's a simple service job

Dave

Morning Brenda

Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box and it will call up your model then search the sections you need. You will find small exploded drawings that will let you see where stuff is and how it connects, it worries a mechanic when a lady not only knows what it is but where it is and what it does 🤣 Also look at www.pelicanparts.com their articles section has how to's with pictures and time estimates for jobs.

Now for your leak, most BMW hoses have quick release ends and over time as they are Plastic seals and plastic deteriorate and can leak. Same applies to the seals for the trans cooler, water pumps have a life and so do thermostats and temperature senders, and header tank caps.

If your mechanic removes the engine covers (simple job) and pressure tests the cooling system he will find the leak quite quickly. Then replace the leaking part refill with new Correct coolant 

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Richard

We have all made similar mistakes over the years lets hope the 3 years go by without problems even if the fizz isn't there

Dave

Morning Michael

Sorry didn't realise you were in the US, I am not sure when BMW changed the Buss systems in the US I-bus was the early version with only main control units needing registration. 2005/6 was the change here, we suddenly found just about everything needed "coding" if you have a good BMW friendly Diagnostic program you should be OK

When buying parts remember like most car manufacturers BMW buy in probably 70% of components so the Auction sites are a really good source of parts used and new

Dave

Hi Wayne 

I brought an Erisin 10.25" screen unit that at the time came with Android 10, fitting instructions were clear and there are a couple of online videos as well. that was 21/2 years ago I chose Erisin because they have a UK support (which happily I have never needed)

Cost was around £300 from memory so for very little outlay I was in control rather than BMW who want a subscription for connected drive then a 2 year subscription for Map upgrades 

I have put an Xtrons unit into a friends X5 functions well and looks the same as my Erisin (probably came out of the same factory)

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Wayne

Flaky Bluetooth was one of the reasons I swapped my Display screen for an Aftermarket Android unit 2years ago. A true Plug and Play swap took me about 2 hrs to do and I get Bluetooth that works, better SAT Nav choices all the Android App choices Android Auto plus Carplay if your an Apple fan

Plus all the original CiC functions remain with the ability to switch between systems using the i Drive controller, and for around the same price as the BMW Dealer wanted to Diagnose the issue (not fix it that was just silly)

That would be my route

Dave

Have you checked the actual speakers for water ingress ? Have you checked the earth points not sure if the replacement you have ordered will need registration to your chassis or not. Your original could be checked and repaired try someone like ECU Testing or Cartronix then no registration issues 

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Michael

Welcome to the Forum

Beautiful cars , if you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the relevent section the small exploded drawings are useful guides plus you will have correct part numbers.

Another useful site is www.pelicanparts.com it has an articles section with how to's with pictures also get yourself a good BMW capable diagnostic program INPA/ISTA is best but now there are several others available

Good luck with your projects

Dave

I guess it is carry a Spare Gallon and let it drop below a 1/4 tank if the Gauge keeps reading below a 1.4 it should indicate the senders are working.

Assuming from your first post before gauge stopped reading at 1/4 and stayed there.

Dave

Morning Richard

When you say you cleared them did they stay cleared? Or are they back ? have you checked the left level sensor ? Have you checked www.realoem.com to see if you have 2 level sensors?

Dave

Hi Paul

Water pump leak also check the trans cooler for weeps the O rings can weep

Dave

Hi Richard 

Have the codes been cleared after changing the fuel pump and sender ? If not that is where I would start also try disconnecting the Battery (Neg First) for around 30 mins. If the codes wont clear normally a sign that either sender is at fault or there is a wiring issue check the earths.

Dave

Morning Stuart

Welcome to the Forum

My neighbours Mini is sitting on 7x17 inch wheels with the same size tyres as yours she has them at 34psi 

The tyre pressure monitoring system could have a fault with one wheel. Not sure which system your Mini runs if your car has a metal tyre valve stem it could be a fail of that sensor not that expensive (available on several Auction sites. The pain obviously is the tyre has to be removed to change it. I believe early cars used the ABS sensors checking wheel rotation at each corner. 

A scan should be able to tell what the fault is or you could try disconnecting the battery for around 30 mins (Neg first ) to see if that resets things

Good Luck

Dave

Whoop Whoop Whoop

What a great result Tino pleased for you

Dave

Morning Mark

Welcome to the Forum

Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your Model. Then search steering,

double click the part number and you should get a list of alternate part numbers. All of those part will be marked if they will fit. Also you will see what other models they were fitted to after fitting you will need a service code to get it working correctly

Dave

Morning Hunter

Check the Battery and its connections really carefully Double check the IBS sensor and cable. If you look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model. Then check the Battery section

Will the car start with a Jump Start? Make sure you only jumpstart at the terminals under the bonnet. Check alternator output (it should be 14.5v or there abouts) Is the Battery OK if it is 11v or less it is dead.

Dave

Morning Chris

The Reverse Camera may have disturbed the Video feed fingers crossed replacing it will sort the issue. Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins Neg first (a Dealer trick) it will reset any simple fault codes

Good Luck 

Dave

HI Chris

That is always a starting point go over what ever was done recently to see if anything was left undone or disturbed

Dave

Welcome to the Forum

Dave

Hi Lucas

Welcome to the Forum

I am not aware that the 116d had a cut off switch (I stand to be corrected as I haven't seen many) I would look elsewhere Furl Pump. Fuel pump relay Crank sensor, all fuses checked and OK. A Diagnostic session may be the wat forward

Dave

Morning Nev

Welcome to the Forum

Serious cars, only two things to be said ENJOY 😁 and Jealous (Mind I wouldn't get the dogs in)

Dave

Morning Joe

Been there not a nice place to be with huge quotes from Dealer (new trans £5k ) and Specialist (rebuild  £2.5k) I decided to spend out on Fluid and filters to see if I could flush it through.

I used a technique that worked on Volvo's here it is for what it's worth and it works

First drain and refill the transmission (Tip make sure you can undo the fill plug before you drain it) I brought enough Fluid for 2 flushes and a refill plus 2 filters 

After the initial refill run the engine and go through the normal gear selection routine. The next part you will need some clear hose that will fit onto the return pipe from the transmission cooler (the rear one on your transmission I believe) and a clearish plastic container so you can see what's in it, I used a windscreen wash  container and put a mark on the side at around 3ltrs, now with the help of an assistant run the engine watch the fluid going into the container at the mark engine off and replace the return pipe empty the waste fluid into a disposal drum I have an old 5 gallon drum. Then repeat two more times, the last time don't refill drop the pan and change the filter make sure you can catch any fluid left in the pan.

By now with 6 or 7 litres through the box you should have flushed the Torque converter as well. Now repeat the process all fluid should now be looking pretty new but I didn't cut corners this time 4 flush throughs. The last same routine don't fill drain the pan of the last fluid, drop it and change the filter. Put it all back together and refill run it up to temp and check the levels and your done

In my case it was the Transmission on my E53 4.6is it has covered more than 50k since still smooth in operation. I use this method when carrying out a gearbox service these days a little more expensive fluid than (not changing filters twice just once) a drain and refill but always clears the torque converter.

Good Luck hope this helps

Dave

Welcome to the Forum Andy

Enjoy your Beemer

Dave

Wowser's Tino

Happy New Year (belated) you are starting where you left off I see !! You have gone through some serious detective work with that car.

Hope Sunday brings success 

Dave

Hi Andy

Welcome to the Forum

Check the brake backplate is secure I have seen 2 recently with rusted backplates moving and causing odd noises. Drive Shafts and Prop shaft all OK?  Also worth checking the under trays a loose under  tray flapping around can give odd noises too

Dave