Greydog

Morning Christopher 

If your going to do your own repairs invest in a BMW friendly Diagnostic System it will be worth its weight in $$$$ There are now several available that allow full Dealer level access, the best is BMW INPA/ISTA (also probably the dearest) I say the best because it also includes WIS (Workshop instructions) Parts lists and a wealth of other stuff. But iCarsoft is very good as are Foxwell and Autologic Carly also have a system but it is subscription.

A Diagnostic scan should very quickly identify the culprit, otherwise you are changing parts and hoping. You could get the car to a BMW Dealer and ask them to carry out a diagnostic scan obviously they will charge for this $$$$ (BMW Dealers in the UK charge £200+ p/hr) they will hope to get you to let them repair it as well,( not at their rates ). In the UK we have a register of BMW Specialists Google should help if there is similar in the USA they are normally less than half dealer costs.

Once you know the cause you can use www.realoem.com a BMW Online parts list to find the correct part number and the Internet to find a replacement, new or used. Then fitting is just patience and logic sometimes a part may need registering to the car but I have found often if it is the same part number it isn't required. 

In the US you have www.pelicanparts.com look at their Articles section they have great "How to's" with pictures plus advice sections 

So there is loads of help and support and working on your BMW isn't as daunting as many suppose, Good Luck

Dave

Morning James 

OK process I follow is 

 Tools. Pressure Bleed kit 3litre (mine is around 15/20 tears old) Large syringe to suck old fluid from reservoir, Nylon mallet, Brake nipple spanners, Fluid (correct for car) Tip never store opened Brake Fluid it will absorb moisture from the air giving more problems long term

Jack up the car on level ground and place on axel stands, remove the wheels. Clean around all 4 bleed nipples and the Master Cylinder cap.

Set up the pressure bleed kit, I use a large syringe to empty the master cylinder, top up with fresh fluid. Attach the pressure bleed cap and apply 15psi

Always start at the wheel cylinder furthest from the master cylinder normally passenger rear. Check the catch bottle is attached and crack open the bleed nipple keep an eye on the fluid tap the brake caliper in case there is any air in the cylinders you will often see bubbles. When the fluid is clear and bubble free lock off the nipple and remove the catch tank. Check the Master Cylinder for level and move to the Drivers rear and repeat the process (I activate the ABS in case there are any air bubbles in there) Same procedure once the fluid is clear and bubble free lock off the nipple and move to passenger front Bleed and check Master cylinder level then the last Drivers front. Once complete check the master cylinder is at the full mark ( I keep a towel tucked under the master cylinder just in case there is any spillage) replace the master cylinder cap and sensor plug activate the ABS one last time. Job done

If the brakes are spongy or the pedal settles under pressure it is normally a leak or air is still in the system. Sinking Brake pedal under pressure (engine running) is in my experience often a Vacuum leak replacing the vacuum line and non return valve normally fixes it. Other causes can be Master cylinder seals worn.

Not trying to teach Granny here just passing on what I would do 

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Yanson

Welcome to the Forum

If you can gather enough evidence and other BMW owners with the issue why not as you say do the same but also copy in Rogue Traders. BMW did not enjoy their last visit to the show and suddenly grew a sense of responsibility towards their customers

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Vladimir

Welcome to the Forum

Some things to check, 1st, What wheel set up do you have? if the rears are wider than the fronts ( Staggered setup) then using the correct size tyres from a well known Brand (BMW * rated if possible) is critical to protect the Transfer case and transmission. If the car has same size wheels front and rear you can still get issues if the tyres are mismatched brands.

Looking at the record Tyres changed at 25000 miles is about right for a new set. The tyre repaired remounted at 28000 could be a puncture repair or pot hole damage. Tyre mounted at 30700 again balance or damage repair Tyres rotated at 37075 Not required and shouldn't be done with a staggered set up but at least they are checking at service. 45000 Tyre repaired tyres checked and pressures checked 

With all the tyre damage either the previous owner/owners were unlucky or clumsy check the wheels for signs of crack repair at the rims also buckling. As 45000 was the last check what miles are on it now as the tyres will be close to change, not cheap so a good negotiating point providing the car is in good mechanical and body condition and it is what you want.

Good Luck

Dave

Morning James

Welcome to the Forum

Looking at BMW WIS the ABS unit should be activated as part of the brake  bleeding process a Good BMW friendly Diagnostic program should allow this.

Check the vacuum line to the servo and non return valve at the servo if they are perished it gives a spongy pedal. When you were bleeding the brakes are you sure you got all the air out of the system ? If you are re-doing it don't use fluid from an open can that has been sitting in the garage it doesn't take long to absorb moisture from the air (another spongy cause)

Good Luck

Dave

Hi Paul

Could be gasket or could be the shaft seals, As the pump has to come off I would change it as a precaution a water pump and coolant is only about £150 maybe change the thermostat to

Just my thoughts

Dave

Try putting it in the Cars for sale section

Morning Robert

Welcome to the Forum

Hmmm  I use BMW ISTA/INPA and it will normally record all faults in the cars history even "Not present faults" unless they have been cleared by the operator. Many people using Diagnostics start by clearing all faults, then run the diagnostic to see what returns. The problem is they have also cleared any history so if the issue is intermittent any trace is gone to.

EML is triggered by all sorts of issues from an Air leak to a short or poor earth in the loom to one of the sensors, sensors seem to either work or not so while I would test them I don't dismiss them, O2 sensors have a life so dependent on mileage and assuming no air leaks or vacuum leaks my testing would start there.

Unfortunately it can be an expensive process if your paying an hourly rate

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Robert

Welcome to the Forum

Never done the job but I would search the Net for any help before starting 

Check any websites that may help like www.pelicanparts.com that have "How To's" in their Articles section with pictures 

Good Luck 

Dave

Morning Christopher

Welcome to the Forum

The cars are pretty much the same just you guys have the steering on the wrong side 😂 

We already have quite a few members in the USA so if we can help we will

Dave

Morning Ricky

A normally aspirated engine (your 4.8is) will see an increase by an ECU tune alone but will never see the type of gains a Forced induction engine will 

So you need a target and a plan, Carol Shelby famously said "Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go"

A good ECU tuner will need to know what other upgrades have been done in order for him to optimise them.  Look for a rolling road tuner so you will see printed proof of increases before and after. A cheap chip tune will rarely see the gains claimed.

Standard engine should be in the region of 350/360 bhp a rolling road session will let you know how many are there for sure and is your start point. I would look at intake and Exhaust to start. Bigger throttle body and free flow headers and Cats then back on the Rolling Road and and tune the ECU. If that doesn't give enough then more aggressive Cams but now your into engine work when I rebuilt my 4.6is 10 years ago now the engine parts bill alone was almost £3k if you are going to add garage labour then more than double that. I also added a Dinan Super Charger kit from the USA 

Also remember the Transmission when you reach 400+hp there is a lot more torque going through the Gearbox Transfer case and Diffs they need to be tip top or upgraded to handle the extra grunt, and last but not least Brakes and Suspension.

Good Luck with whatever you do

Dave

Morning Richard

Check www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings will show how stuff should fit. Check the mounting face for any old gasket or imperfections. Then reassemble using a new gasket that is the way I would go

Dave

Morning Robin

Welcome to the Forum

I replaced both rear Air springs and compressor last year on my E70 mine rarely alters now. The compressor runs on cold mornings while adjusting ride height that is about it.

So back to the garage as if it is dropping that much there must be a fault or leak

Dave

Morning Dezron

First what colour is the Engine light ? If RED don't run the engine you could do damage £££££

If Orange the fault could be plugs, Coil Packs, Wiring, O2 sensors, MAF the list goes on. When was it last serviced? A diagnostic scan would confirm

Dave

Morning Nellie

The Master Cylinder in your car was used in several BMW Models from 1 series to Mini so should be available from a good Auto Factors 

I would expect to pay around a £150 or so (may be double if BMW OEM) plus Brake fluid a BMW Dealer will charge around £200 + per hr that is around 5 hrs labour ??

Find a Good Independent garage and ask for a price to replace the Brake Master Cylinder

As for the Insurers I have used Tesco insurance and (touches wood) never had to use it, are the brakes part of the claim? If not I am at a loss 

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Nellie

Welcome to the Forum

The cause of the brake failure needs identifying and fixing, you say the car has a full history has a brake service been carried out ? By whom ? And when? Has the brake fluid level been checked ? Brakes are hydraulic in a closed system if they are losing fluid the leak certainly  needs identifying and fixing. Has your daughter noticed any fluid on the floor or reduced braking effect (soft pedal) before the incident ?

I don't understand your insurers, if a car was towed to the body shop they would repair the body and paint not test drive it ? But hey Insurers rule we can't move without it these days

Dave

Morning John

Welcome to the Forum

As the is a recent purchase check your position under the sale of goods act and put pressure on the supplying Dealer.

Or Google BMW Specialists there is a Register so you should find one close to you. Generally they are around half the cost of BMW, most are BMW Technicians who have gone solo.

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Madeleine

Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then look in the Seat section, the small exploded drawings may give some clues.

Dave

Morning Philo

I have changed a chain (which is a pain) for a friend of our sons, that was 3 years ago and no repeat issues/noises 

I would be talking to who ever did the work I think

Dave

Morning Andrew

Take a look at www.realoem.com go to the Classic section put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box you should be able to get the OEM Part Number, then Google it to see if they are still available. You could also (if you haven't already) contact BMW they have an active Classic section

There are also companies who rebuild classic stuff Google again

Dave

Hi Owen

Welcome to the Forum

Check www.realoem.com either search manually or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. The small exploded drawings will help with location

Dave

Hi Brenda 

The transmission Oil cooler uses the cars main radiator coolant to keep things in check it depends on which part of it has failed often it is just an "O" ring or two sounds like he may be ordering a new Trans cooler ?

Sorry your having such grief

Dave

Hi Peter

With the X-drive the gearbox is made by ZF so a good Transmission specialist or better yet a ZF agent should be able to fix things.

When was the gearbox last serviced ? Often the gearbox is forgotten

Dave

Welcome to the Forum Pugz

Only one thing to say really ENJOY

Dave

Morning Tony 

Sadly many never close out their posts when the problem is fixed

Find a good transmission specialist (preferably ZF) and get the box serviced they will tell you what the problem is. Gearboxes like engines should be serviced but rarely are Good Luck lets hope it's a simple service job

Dave