Greydog

Morning Steven

Really ? your screen shot doesn't show any VTG Fault or is it a new one ? Or is it a different scan ?

You will need to either get them checked and repaired other wise the K-can bus faults will never be cleared and they will prevent some others being cleared. My course of action would be first repair the K-can Bus and clear down all the K-can Bus faults either using a Scan tool like your original screen shots or simply disconnect the Battery for 30mins (a Dealer Trick) Once that is done re-scan and see what faults show. Many folks have carried out costly replacement/repairs due to treating a symptom not the actual cause. Transfer Case damage/faults are normally tyre related  or the VTG oil needs replacing

Seems you are making progress though 😁 

Dave

Morning Steven

Plenty to go at there 🤣 

I see that most of the fault codes are K-can based, if your not aware the Bus system is how all the Control modules talk to each other, so first port of call is sort the K-can bus fault. That should allow you to clear most of the faults then we can see what is left 

How handy are you ? Getting handier I guess 😅

So it may be simpler than you think and not as scary, in the boot right hand side you will need to take out the battery cover and storage box (5 screws). Take out the cover for the rear Fuse Board (unclips) and remove the small storage tray under it (2 push clips) Now you will have access to the main loom across the back of the car. BMW in their wisdom decided to make solder free cable joints by twisting and compressing joints then putting a clear rubber/plastic seal over them. Moisture gets in and the joints corrode and fail that is the cause of your problem, now the fix.

Tools you will need are, Soldering Iron and solder (my preference) or a method of jointing the cables plus some shrink wrap/tape to seal the joints

You need to dig into the main loom the runs below the fuse board where it begins to rise and across the back of the car 

The Pictures show what your looking for any black in the clear plastic is corrosion, when I found mine and moved the joints for the K-can bus they literally fell apart. Look at the picture (Cable splices) you can see the 2 smaller splices on the left (Orange/Green trace and Green) that's the Can Bus. I took off the clear plastic (it fell off) stripped the cables back twisted the cables together and soldered the joint. Work one joint at a time so nothing gets mixed up, once the Can Bus is fixed you should be able to clear most faults. When I found this lot on my E70 I remade all the joints one at a time just for my own peace of mind all of them are in the big loom below the fuse board and across the rear of the car towards the battery.

Not a scary as it seems, when done and tested tidy up the loom with some tape and put everything back together 

Now rescan clear faults and see what is left 

Good Luck

Dave

Dave 

Don't you love some Main Dealers, with my E53 X5 4.6is I changed most of the suspension bushes from rubber to Poly bushes (same as many competition cars) as they last longer. Airbag Recall and the Service Manager told me my cars was unsafe to use on the road ?? I asked why and he told me the suspension was fitted with "non compliant parts" that should be changed immediately. 8 years on and in March this year it passed its MOT with no advisories 🤣

By the way to see the Crank pulley they would need to remove the engine splash guards not sure if the need to do that for the recall

ENJOY your Beemer

Dave

Hi Steven

To get the best you will need someone with a BMW capable diagnostic system Obviously BMW but they will be costly as most Dealers now have hourly rates north of £200. A BMW specialist would have the kit and are normally around half the cost of a main Dealer Google the Register of BMW Specialists. Or a good Independent with a top end Snapon, Foxwell or Autologic system there are several others these days

Your BMW X5 has around 100 control modules a BMW system will see them all and narrow down the source of the fault a General OBD reader will just see a general code that then takes time to trace

Dave

Morning Mike

Welcome to the Forum

Bit confused your post says transmission fault yet you ask about key cutting?? Am I missing something as you say the car drives well

If it is a new or spare key the simplest way is to contact your main dealer and part with some hard earned 

Dave

Morning Steven

First I take it you are working from lights on the dash you really do need a Diagnostic session to be sure of the Fault cause.

From your description the fault could be the Junction Box/FRM (footwell control module) it controls many functions.

You will need to change it if you can get the same part number it will be straight forward but you will need to match the mileage so note it before starting or you will get a tamper dot on the dash

Dave

Morning Stewart 

There is a drain plug in the bottom of the rad or simply pop off the bottom hose. The hoses have an "O" ring seal held by a spring clip, if you prize up the spring clip you can wiggle the hose off have a big tub/bowl to catch the coolant 

Dave

Morning Frank

Who told you that ? 

The Damper pulley is made of steel as is the inner boss the two parts are held together by a vulcanised rubber core it is probably the rubber which is showing cracks, how did they see it? If you look down from the top of the engine and the pulley is wobbling when the engine is running I would consider changing it (if you do then it is worth changing Belts Tension and Guide pulleys as well) If the pulley is steady then I wouldn't worry to much

Hope this helps

Dave

Morning Frank

Welcome to the Forum

Rear Suspension not right ! Isn't much to help diagnose your problem so (1) is the system loosing pressure overnight ? (2) Is the compressor running (you should hear it under the back of the car) ? What dash warnings are you seeing ?

Genuine air bags are around £80 each A replacement compressor £130 A Control unit (second user) £50 then there are 2 ride height sensors £25 a pair 2 fuses and a relay. So the system isn't complicated and can replaced completely for around £350 to £400, most common issues I have seen are leaks. If the system is loosing air the compressor ends up over running and either timing out (dash warning) or wearing out and while it will run it just can't produce enough pressure.  

My guess is, that if the previous owner changed the air bags the compressor is possibly on it's way out, easy to change a real plug and play job. 

Hope this helps

Dave

Morning Richard

Most of the control modules on the RR L322 are the same as BMW I bus cars so you should have no issues 

Good Luck

Dave

Hi Richard

As long as it is the same Part Number you should be OK, worst case scenario it will need registering to the chassis. While BMW Dealers try and make a big deal of it it is simple and straight forward. Normally if your Snapon tool will recognise the Module it's just entering the Vin sometimes just the last 7 digits is enough.

If not try BMW 1.4.0 you can get it for between £10 and £20 depending where you buy it will give you dealer level access to all BMW's up to 2006/2007 

Dave

Morning Richard

Welcome to the Forum

First is the replacement "new" or second hand worth testing it, next I would check continuity on the loom to the SRS module before changing the actual Module 

Don't know why but passenger seat occupancy was also an issue worth checking the sensor mat

Hope this helps

Dave

Morning Stu

If there is no rattling or just a little at cold start I would check the chain tensioner first, early X5 V8s were known for needing them changed every 20k or so. Normally looks like big bolt on the side of the timing cover. If I recall it's at the back of the engine on the side of the timing chain cover under the airbox. One of the boys on the shoot brought a cheap Mini because it had Chain rattle changed the tensioner and still driving it 2 years later

My thought is it ran well for 100 miles and chains don't go without some early signs, worth a go before going for the full strip job 

Dave

Morning Grant

Welcome to the Forum

Apart from removing the console and checking if it releases from behind I can offer no help 

Keep us updated

Dave

Morning David

The 12g is a Browning Gold the 20g Beretta Silver Pidgeon both over and under with 30" barrels. Rifles are 308 Ruger and a Steyer Mannlicher in 243 calibre both bolt action with inter changeable scope. Plus I still have the first shotgun given to me 60+ years ago by Grandfather a 12g Greener made in San Francisco 1n 1889 great gun it just weighs almost as much as the other 4 together 🤣. Don't see many lever action rifles in the UK.

The retrieving bit is simple I always have a team of 3 or 4 dogs with me (1 if stalking) 

When in Business I had many many nice cars mainly 2 wheel drive and totally useless off road. I kept an old 110 Land Rover for shooting. When I retired I decided to get a car that would do both jobs, Mercedes ML at that time I thought was ugly Porsche Cayenne looked half finished Range Rover were unreliable so I settled on a BMW X5 E53 4.4 which was replaced with an E53 4.6is (still have it) and the current is an E70 3.0d 

As an engineer I have a need to know how it works so always maintained my own cars, it is another hobby. If I sit down my wife worries I am bored so has a LIST !!😁 So I adopt the old "a moving target" adage and keep busy 😅

The cars her Subaru my BMW + the friends and family, training the dogs, Golf and shooting keep me out of trouble and away from the list 

Enjoy your Beemer

Dave

Just spoke with my Brother inlaw he says its Sport+ stiffer suspension faster gear changes (Manual) and allows paddle shifting at the steering wheel he also thought the arrow head was always there?

He also said after a couple of times using he grew out of it 🤣 it it now lives in D 

Dave

Hi David

We live in West Sussex South of London around 20 miles from the coast. I had several good business colleague's in the States when  I worked, Atlanta, Detroit and LA who became friends, plus my wife's sister married an American and lived in Florida. I have also been to several Gun Shows in Dallas and Ft Worth and as you did have toured a little over there even fitted in some Golf.

I enjoy Game shooting Partridge and Pheasant and some Wild Fowl mainly in the area I live but have shot Grouse further North I have a Browning 12g and a Beretta 20g which is my preferred weapon for game birds. Also do a little Deer Stalking, I have tried Clay shooting but enjoy being able to eat what I shoot 😅

Dave

Morning Michael

Welcome to the Forum

Make sure you have a good Torx Drive set both male and female plus I don't know what's included in the Halfords advanced kit so check

Good Luck you seem to have it covered

Dave

Morning Susan

Welcome to the Forum

Not noticed that in my Brother Inlaws 540x Drive I will ask him later

I can see it's in Drive if you pull back on the shift what happens ? Does it move into Sport + ?

Dave

Morning David 

Welcome to the Forum

Nice motor ENJOY

I am now on my 3rd BMW X5, the current one is a Diesel model

I live in the South of the UK and it's quite a few years since we had any significant snow, how ever in the winter one of my hobbies is shooting so spend a fair amount of time Off Road on slippery Chalk tracks and soft mud. We also go into France and Northern Italy for a little skiing. I have never had any real issues and have pulled quite a few folks out of places where they have got stuck. I keep a spare set of Wheels with Winter Tyres as parts of Europe they used to be a legal requirement (Obviously where the snow is) But in the UK average temperature haven't been below freezing for very long at all (a week or 2) I haven't bothered for quite a few years now.

Short answer as you already know how to adjust your driving when it's slippery conditions with your work truck so you shouldn't have any drama's

ENJOY your Beemer

Dave

Morning Rob

Welcome to the Forum

From your description the knock can be heard/felt in the steering, jack up the car and spin the wheel can it be felt/heard.

I would expect a noise/knock to indicate possible damage to (a) Wheel and Tyre (b) Wheel Bearing issue (c) Brake Disc issue (d) something loose

Without seeing feeling hearing the noise it is impossible for us to diagnose your issue only give clues of where to look

Hope this helps

Dave

Morning Gavin

Welcome to the Forum

Take a look at www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings should help. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will show your model then look in the engine section.

Never worked on a 218 but Vanos is normally top front of each camshaft I think the actuator has to be removed to get access to the valve/solenoid. Not sure if you have them on inlet and exhaust on your engine but Realoem will confirm that

Dave

Morning Phil

Welcome to the Forum

Are the mirrors folding or is it the glass position and heater?

Is it actually the mirror or the loom shorting ?

At 35 it wouldn't be unusual for insulation to become brittle

Dave

Morning Paul

Welcome to the Forum

That's the main reason that I changed to an Android based system a couple of years ago one of my sons did the same last month 

I now have a system that connects to my home wifi whenever parked outside the house and automatically updates all apps. Sat Nav is now Tom Tom but also have Here we Go and Google maps on the system, as well as Android Auto, Car Play, Spotify the list is long. Cost for my son was £250 mine 2 years ago was less than £200. They look OEM plus we both still have access to all the cars radio, CD, and the cars maintenance settings win win 

Dave

Try websites like "How many left when I looked some years back my E53 4.6is showed 820 registered new between 2002 and 2004 and when I checked 215 still registered most of them Sorn only 80 on the road 

But you have to remember it is only worth what someone who wants one is prepared to pay

Good Luck