Greydog

Morning Daryl

Welcome to the Forum

You say LPFP and Control Module have been changed ? With what ? Were the replacements new or second hand ? I did read a post sometime ago where issues were caused by the EKP unit over heating and rather than change the unit the owner fitted Heat Sinks 

It may be the controller is at fault

Dave

Morning Ahmed

Welcome to the Forum

Could be a sensor issue could be a pad sticking on it's retaining pins? Normally Front pads take the brunt of slowing and stopping so it needs checking. If you can't do it yourself you need the help of someone mechanically capable

Dave

Morning Elijah

Welcome to the Forum

Normal things, does the cars general condition match the mileage. What is the service history (check it if you can) Make sure everything works inside all the switches and gadgets (there are no cheap fixes) Mechanically the BMW straight six is a strong engine it should be smooth and vibration/knock free, Gearbox is ZF and should have been serviced also if not it will need doing.

Reading the add the guy sounds like a bit of a Trader so questions like is the title in his name may tell you more

Good Luck

Dave

Afternoon Paul

Sticking calliper would be my guess, or pads binding in the holding pins. Did find a rear parking brake sticking on a friends Volvo car ran straight on the road but touch the brakes and it pulled to the left 

Any heat on any wheel centre ?

Dave

Morning Alan

Welcome to the Forum

Ouch, I guess if you have talked to BMW they have told you it will be £000 + fitting + setting up 

I would talk to one of the Specialist BMW Dismantlers (I have used Quarry Motors who are one of the oldest) check Google there is a Register I believe, also check the Auction web sites. Price I would think will still be between £400 and £600. Your old unit should have a part number on it use it when searching for a replacement, if the replacement has the same part number you may get away without any setting up through the diagnostics. If the replacement is not an Adaptive unit there may be all sorts of complications with the Cars software and headlamp controller not being able to see it.

Good Luck 

Dave

Morning Darren

The transmission in your car is made by ZF and is a 6 speed (or should be)

BMW Dealers used to say the transmission is "Sealed for Life" what that really meant was the end of their 3 year warranty responsibility.

ZF actually recommend servicing the transmission between 60,000 kilometres and 100,000 kilometres dependent on use. Sadly on most cars the poor old gearbox is one of the least serviced most abused parts of the car. You don't say how many miles your car has covered or whether there is any evidence the gearbox has ever been serviced. It probably hasn't !!

I would start with a Flush and fluid/filter change a ZF specialist or good Transmission specialist will also check the solenoid operation and upload the latest software.

Worth talking to one before things get worse (they wont get better) a few hundred now is better than rebuild later which would be in the Thousands

Just my thoughts 

Dave

Hmmm The Dealer is digging a hole with his mouth that may prove difficult to get out of if the fault returns, Surely when BMW designed the car they would have worked with the gearbox Manufacturer and let them know the cars power/torque output and of course any systems such as stop start ???? 

As I said in my earlier reply gather as much evidence on any other failures as you can.

Dave

No sorry Jack over my long years of car ownership (started in 1960) my cars have been owned outright or company cars so never had to explore a termination option. I would research it to see if there are any implications that may effect your credit rating though

Dave

Morning Mustapha

Welcome to the Forum

First place is to double check the work that has been done for you to get that many issues either something is not connected or something is wrongly connected would be my guess

If someone has cross connected a sensor fingers crossed it hasn't caused damage to the DME 

Most of your faults are MAF and Valvetronic sensor related so go back over the work very carefully making sure all sensor plugs are connected to the correct sensor and seated correctly

Check there are no loose wires or and shorts

Not sure what the garage did as changing the coolant system is straight forward Rad, Water pump, Thermostats, and hoses plus the fan. I would be talking to them about why you have so many issues

Dave

Great work Christopher

Morning Rufas

Welcome to the Forum

There were a couple of posts about White smoke/vapour at start up after the car had stood for a few days. Sadly no cause or resolution in any follow up posts

I have a friend with one and he has had no issues I am aware of

Good Luck with the hunt

Dave

Morning Karo

Welcome to the Forum

Where in the world are you based ?

The Forum is mainly UK based so we don't want to point you in the wrong direction

Some thoughts though, Take a look at www.realoem.com use the Vin in the search box it will call up your model. Once you have the Part number Google it see what comes up. Don't dismiss BMW they have a good Classics section and offer good discounts on older cars. In the UK there is a register of BMW dismantlers who are very knowledgeable and useful

Good Hunting

Dave 

Morning Eddie

Never played with a 220d but try 

1. Turn on Ignition (press start button 3 times) 

2. Press the button on the end of the left stalk for 10/15secs

3. You should now be in Service mode release the button and each press should scroll you through until you get to the service you want

4. When you find what you want press the button for 5/10 secs then release then repeat it should turn green

Personally I am not a fan of extended service intervals so change oils and filters annually (around 6k these days) Remember BMW also program in time dependent service Points. Brake Fluid, Inspections etc.

Hope it works for your motor

Dave

Top Man

Great information and a successful fix

Thanks

Dave

Morning Vincent

Welcome to the Forum

You say the shaking/vibration is in the steering wheel, is this at standstill engine running or engine running and when you turn the wheel ? 

I would get under the car and have an assistant (Grand children are really useful) turn the wheel while I put a hand on the steering rack and arms. Any vibration should be felt. Then check the steering column in the engine bay for anything touching it that could transfer vibration from the engine to the column. I would check the engine mounts and gearbox mounts just in case

Good Luck in finding the culprit

Dave

Morning Vasek

Welcome to the Forum

Under the bonnet check with a multi meter for power at the charging points then check all fuses. In the boot check battery connections and battery out put, the fact that it is only a year doesn't mean it cant die.

Dave

Hi John

Welcome to the Forum

That is a crazy price I have a friend who runs a 2007 760Li (Chauffer)but the N74 engine and last year we changed both sensors and from memory they were around £60 each

I think I would talk to Bosch UK and see if they have an alternate

I take it you have Googled the part to see what prices come up 

Good Luck 

Dave

If the engine is running so is the power steering pump it has no electrical connection. Unless the electrical problem cuts the engine?

So as the wipers, washers, horn are all on the steering column I would start there if you are not very DIY skilled you may well need the help of someone who is. The steering wheel and plastic covers need taking off to inspect the slip ring and clock spring at the top of the column to make sure it is in good condition. If it is worn and catching that could be your problem also take time to check the loom and connections to the wiper stalk and clock spring and ignition switch.

If something is catching as you turn the wheel that could make you think the power steering is not working. There is also a double Universal joint at the end of the steering column in the engine bay they have been known to stiffen up, sometimes lubrication helps sometimes they need replacing.

Dave

OK more questions

(1) How long have you had it, how many miles and does it have a service history ?

(2) Your power steering is hydraulic so if that is not working it is mechanical so Belt and Fluid need checking as do the connections

(3) The electrical issues could be Battery related how old is the battery and is it in good condition?

If all problems are electrical you need a Diagnostic scan to quickly find the culprit. I take it all the fuses are OK

Dave

Morning Pook

Answered in your original post

What model X5 E53 do you have ?

Dave

Morning Pook

Welcome to the Forum 

As your BMW X5 is 2006 I take it is E53 model ?

If it is then it runs on I-bus the original posters car would run K-bus or higher, your power steering should be hydraulic not electric. A fairly common failure with the E53 was the Footwell Control Module a Diagnostic scan should tell for sure. A word of caution BMW will tell you they are the ONLY ones who can change it (if it is the fault) so will many BMW Specialists. They are wrong the auction sites and BMW specialist dismantlers will sell a replacement FCM all it needs is registering to your car to prevent a tamper dot beside your mileage everything will work even with the dot.

Dave

Morning Steve

Welcome to the Forum

Received the new Actuator late yesterday and this morning been out side taking the old one off and swapping them 

The original actuator on my door has failed internally the double lock mechanism sticking and not allowing the internal or external handle to work or the physical key. If I operated the lock/unlock on the key or the dash I could here the internals work but the double lock just wouldn't release. As the unit is sealed in a plastic body repair is virtually impossible and pretty much pointless. As I would have to cut open the actuator to get to the internals so failure is mechanical all electrics OK is my guess

The replacement I have is Febi and a straight replacement, cost was £64. The door handle Bowden cable was very sticky with grease so I removed the outer handle and mechanism gave everything a good clean re-lube and put it all back

All working as it should again just have the job of cleaning all the trim and putting it back together now 😁

Hope This Helps

Dave

So little update for anyone suffering the same issue

The best way is the big pry bar rested on the internal opening lever and a few good whacks with a mallet. 3rd whack door popped open, Yay

New actuator due today so hopefully near the end

Dave 

Morning Rob

By your model I think you may be in the USA 

All I can say is in the UK we have several companies who are very good at repair and even upgrading CCC units. Are you sure it's the CCC and not the screen ?

I am sure there must be some specialist repairers not to far from you try a Google search

Dave

I use Castrol Edge or Magnatec fully synthetic Mann Filter changed annually (about 7 or 8k these days)

Dave