Greydog

Morning Nigel Damn Bambi 😅 we just don't eat enough Venison in the UK 😅 Totally agree with you if it's on the car it should work and it bugs me if it doesn't. I brought my copy of BMW INPA/ISTA a long long time ago (can't remember where now) but a friend of our son brought a copy last year from www.djwwautodiagnostics.co.uk he paid £90 and it works really well (save him blocking my driveway while he uses mine 😅) The best software is BMW INPA/ISTA which will give you full Dealer level access to your car for diagnostics and repair information, it also contains Wiring diagrams and Workshop information Apparently the company are UK based and give full back up, though I personally have not used them but he is a happy bunny Hope this helps Dave

Morning Nigel Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan will confirm the issue so before spending your Hard Earned that would be my course of action. Either find a BMW specialist or a good independent garage that has BMW capable diagnostics (Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft) Or if you are a DIY fan then buy your own Google BMW Diagnostic Software for less than the cost of a single visit to a Dealer you could have your own. Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum That's a lot of water 😢 I fixed a 5 series for a friend of our son his was no where near that bad though. With the 5 series the rear door card had been removed at sometime and the vapour barrier was missing that added to the drains in the bottom of the door being blocked. The bottom of the door was just full of water. When it rained or he went through a car wash it overflowed and filled the footwell. I cleared the door drains a lot of water was held in there I dried it out with a heat gun (checked the roof drains as well they were OK) Fitted a new vapour barrier took out the carpet and sound deadening thick pad which was sopping, gave them a spin in the washing machine then dried in the sun. While they dried I jet washed the car to check for leaks (none found) so I replaced the Door Card sound deadening and carpet he has had no issue over the last 3 years. With luck that will be your problem 😁 If it isn't then you have a serious leak under the car or in a seam Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Morning Nellie and Paul As far as I was aware and have read the issue is with the ABS unit or to be accurate 2 ABS units (ATE MK100 and ATE MK 25A) that were fitted to quite a few models (not just BMW) between 2011 and 2020 and shows more often on cars with DSC. The big problem is the rate of failures compared to the number of cars with the unit fitted is small so BMW avoid recall on safety grounds, plus it seems (as far as I know) to only seems to happen outside warranty ie. over 3 years old leaving repair cost with the Owner. BMW will also argue that a car serviced by their Dealerships would pick up the fault at Brake Service and advise repair. Always expensive as BMW will replace units not repair them. BMW will also wash their hands if a repair or service is carried out by a Non Franchised Garage (But they are not alone here just about all Main Dealers and Manufacturers are the same) That doesn't mean all is lost there are a few Repair Specialists in the UK who repair (and improve) these units one I have used is ECU Testing who are very good. Now the calliper sticking? is the the ABS pump not releasing all pressure after braking or a fault with the calliper its self? it needs checking with a BMW capable Diagnostic system which would identify if it was a calliper failing/sticking or ABS issue. Also it is good engineering practice if a calliper sticks to either service both callipers or replace both If replacing Fluid only use BMW Spec fluid. It is sad to read tales of woe like this as generally the X1 is a good car and there is nothing wrong with Independent Garages other than some do not have the specialist knowledge or equipment If you are not able to DIY then I would find a BMW Specialist close by I am not a BMW garage just an enthusiastic car owner who loves to service and maintain my own cars plus some friends and families. Over the years I have amassed a strong collection of tools and knowledge including Diagnostics which allows me to work at Dealer level on several makes (Volvo, Mercedes, Audi, and BMW) Dave

Hi Andrew Do you have any Diagnostic software ? or know someone who does ? By selecting live data I can see my injectors and whether they are operating at the same (or close volumes) I can also so see fuel rail pressure. So I don't have to get my fingers dirty unless there's and issue. My brother In-law's 540d estate is at a little over 200k and running well so mileage shouldn't be an issue I would start by checking for any leaks on the Inlet side. Unmetered air will cause a misfire Dave

Morning Andrew Your description sounds like fuel delivery so worth checking fuel rail pressure and sensor as a starting point. Also an Injector check (don't know how many miles you have done Inlet side all Vacuum lines and pressure hoses good (no cracks) throttle body OK Fuel filter OK Dave

Morning Tino Nothing from James just mailed him as a prod I brought an X5 E70 cheap as a project the previous owner had spent a fortune changing parts and finally lost patience with the car. The fault list was huge but after a lot of digging I discovered BMW use earth switching so started working through all the multiple earth points that helped (Not much but it helped) Next while inspecting the loom in the boot I discovered cable splices/joints covered with a clear plastic sleeve (couple of pictures attached) when I moved one it just fell apart, turns out the joints are twisted and compressed then covered with the sleeve. If moisture gets in the joints corrode (black residue) and come apart. I am not sure when BMW started doing this so maybe worth checking yours. I spent an hour or so stripping these joins and soldering then sealing with shrink wrap. I was able to see all modules for the first time and clear down all fault codes and fault memory. That was 3 years back and almost 40k still need to keep an eye on it after all it's a BMW 😁 When my sons friend brought his copy we had to set up VM ware and a Virtual Machine running Win 7 on his Win 10 Laptop initially getting the Drivers to work was a pain at first we loaded and reloaded them several times before we could get it to run cleanly. For drivers you could try ESYS (that's where my copy came from) Also check whether you need 32bit drivers or 64bit Dave

The old "un plug it and restart" 🤣 Glad it was that simple dave

Hi Jim My experience with my own E70 3.0d which I brought very cheap as an MOT fail due to DPF being tampered with. Is the EGR had become clogged and that had caused the same situation as your in, the old owner removed the EGR and DPF then fitted a refurbished Turbo. The MOT fail drove him over the edge and he just wanted rid of the car. I got a used EGR and cooler plus a used DPF from Quarry Motors, had both professionally cleaned then fitted and a little faffing around reprogramming and I have a very cheap E70 3.0sd which has passed 3 MOT's now. For information I brought the E70 as a project and to keep the miles down on my E53 4.6is. Most of my journeys these days are less than 10 or 15 miles but once a week I give it a Motorway run of about 45mins and so far so good. As said if an MOT Station suspect the car has been tampered with it's a fail. As your DPF has been regenerating personally I would keep it Good luck Dave

Hi Ken Wow lucky man 😁 As the car has been stored and Aircon systems loose a little each year anyway my first thought would be try getting it serviced (Kwik fit have summer deals) The machines used vacuum out and check for leaks if it wont hold a vacuum the machine wont try and re=gas the system. My local BMW Specialist has a mobile guy come in (£65 for my E70) Good hunting for a specialist Dave

Morning Jim Just be aware that if an MOT Garage suspect a DPF delete it's an automatic fail plus it's logged so going elsewhere wont work Better solution is just give it a good run once a month in my opinion then no risk of MOT fail Dave

Hi Paul I would guess the oil level sensor is on its way out the only PITA is you cant change it without draining the sump so Oil change time job. Dave

Morning Edward Welcome to the Forum I have to admit I am ignorant of the later 7 series cars but Westfailia were BMW's OEM choice as suppliers. So my starting point would be to find a Westfailia specialist and talk to them Hope this helps Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum First point of call check the fuse diagram and fuses if that doesn't fix it then a Diagnostic Scan is needed by a Dealer £££ an Independent a Specialist or someone with a BMW capable scan tool A quick look at ISTA WIS shows fuses 120 and 128 are phone related Hope this helps Dave

Morning Lissa Welcome to the Forum I guess the first step is getting an estimate of cost to repair, then measure that against cost of changing the car One of our sons (a tree surgeon) had his pick up written off by driver who claimed it was parked in a dangerous spot ?? Straight road two wheels on the grass verge and warning signs out as they were working as well, Police checked the guys phone records he was texting at the time ?? Hope you find away to get the car sorted Dave Sunny Sussex UK (and it is today 😊

Morning Stuart Welcome aboard Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Your car has Disc's front and rear plus the master cylinder, I assume that the garage changed both the front calliper's and discs? Brakes don't apply themselves unless your car has Cruise Control with distance control (which I don't believe 1 series had). That leaves the Rear callipers or Master cylinder, if the binding happens a hand near the wheel centre will let you feel the heat (don't touch the wheel or hub unless you don't mind loosing skin 😁) If all brakes are binding or even just the Front I would suspect the Master cylinder remember it is separate to the Vacuum Servo Good Luck Dave

Morning Tino My copy of INPA/ISTA worked straight out of the box (lucky me) it runs on a Win7 laptop that I already had Merc Star, Volvo, Toyota/Subaru, and a couple of other Diagnostic progs on. However one of our sons friend has a 1 series road car and a 1 series Drift car he was always here or borrowing !! Finally he has brought his own 😁 his copy runs on Win10 laptop we downloaded a Virtual Machine loaded Win 7 then followed all the directions but it took 3 attempts to load the Drivers. With his copy he has 2 Com leads one Yellow Ethernet that is for ISTA a Silver USB lead that has the 3 position switch that one is for INPA and is where we had problems with Drivers I have mailed James he has put a request to the Techies in Germany fingers crossed they get an answer. His first thought is a Can bus issue as he says normally they work unless something physical is broken (a wire or pins) Dave P.S. I only use the Ethernet cable with mine as ISTA seems fine being backwards compatible

Morning Tino INPA/ISTA should recognise Chassis and ECU data and harvest it automatically, well mine does. I get Chassis information, Engine and any history recorded Just sitting with a Coffee studying the wiring diagrams up to 2007 and 2007 shows a resistor symbol in connector X13376 at Pin 1 Green/brown trace 2007-2009 shows no resistor symbol anywhere X13376 connector appears to be part of the vehicle access system it links to the DME Pin 2 Black/green trace that is part of the Start system Later today I will try and talk to an ex neighbour who is now a senior guy in BMW see if he can find any more help Dave

Morning JC Borrowed my neighbours i-Carsoft last evening and it does a lot more than I thought but sadly not with the RDC. So that's not the one Normally you need to erase the old chassis number or last 7 digits then ignition off wait a few minutes ignition on and check it's cleared then enter your information From what I have read online guys using Foxwell have had some success but for me I would look for a Copy of ISTA with it's leads (mine came from ESYS years ago) one of our sons friends brought a copy 2 years ago from the Bay £110 I helped him get it up and running on his Win 10 Laptop, downloaded a Virtual Machine Win7 then loaded the program to that, the only faff was loading the drivers took 3 try's. It works really well and like mine allows full Dealer level access for Diagnostics and Programming Good Luck Dave

Morning JC That's better information A neighbour has i-Carsoft if he is around later today I will have a look At least you now know the cause, will your Maxi unit allow registration ? Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum If there is that much oil in the Header Tank it follows that water should be in the sump what is the Dip stick showing I have never seen anything like that before ? by the stains around the top of the header tank it almost looks like it has been poured in there? I have read of unscrupulous buyers distracting owners and pouring oil into header tanks then claiming head gasket failure and offering stupid low price to complete the sale. But thats OTT I doubt the engine would be running well if that much oil is being lost to the cooling system. First I would carry out an oil change if there is water in the oil then you will see it around the oil cap as a creamy residue and definitely in the drained oil. If the drained oil is OK and the Oil Filler Cap clean next step is drain the coolant remove the header and clean it (if possible) with the coolant drained you should be able to check the oil cooler and its seals to the rad Good luck detecting the cause Dave

I would look at systems like i-Carsoft V3 Foxwell 510, but the best and most comprehensive is ISTA. I have seen all of these on the Bay and Amazon for between £100 and £150 Do a google search for BMW Diagnostic software, Good Luck Dave

If the splice has been repaired properly, there are K-can High (Orange/Green trace) and K-can Low (Green) both need doing then it should clear , I know I have done a few. Then you have the Chassis Can (ICM) which has its own can High and can Low, the DSC has PT-can links High and Low Then common sense dictates you have an issue with other K-can splices there are several in the Main Loom floor level and under the dash I would either check myself or find a another Garage bearing in mind this is the garage that has taken £1000 of your money every time telling you "this will fix it". If you can't be bothered yourself get an Auto Electrician as all your doing is throwing money at it/them. It really isn't that complicated Sorry if that sounds harsh but it's your car and money just go back to your very first post and see the answer/advice given Dave

Hi Cliff I believe you are spot on if there is no dealer code it wasn't a BMW Dealer so you have no proof other than an entry on the infotainment that it was done unless there a receipts with the paperwork As for brakes the problem comes from use eg. A high mile motorway warrior will cover huge distances between brake use/application so needing a change where as a School run car may use its brakes much faster, for me physical inspection is the only way Dave