Greydog

Hi Christine BMW's are well known for being sensitive to Battery voltage I have seen quite a few with either a parasitic discharge or discharged battery. The discharged battery will still start the car but diverts all energy to the start triggering all sorts of spurious warnings. For your information if the battery is charged on the car it should only be charged from the charge points under the bonnet. At the battery your car has an IBS lead (Intelligent Battery System) which lets the cars system know if it is charging or not. I have seen a few BMW's that have batteries changed and the lead has not been reconnected Transmissions are pretty robust but just like the Engine do need servicing Hope you get it sorted Dave

Morning Christine Welcome to the Forum I would be concerned about your garage as the only time I have seen that code was on an X5 with an incorrectly fitted battery (IBS not connected)? First I would point out that I am not a garage just an old engineer with an insatiable need to know 😅 I also have a fully up to-date BMW Diagnostic program and have worked on my own X5's since 2002. Google the register of BMW Specialists you should find one close by I would start with the battery, get the Voltage checked at the Charging points under the bonnet. Engine off it should show 12.5v minimum with the engine running 14.5v min. Also check the battery connections in the boot make sure the IBS (small lead) is connected Hope this helps Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Used to hear this a lot when catalyser's were bedding in but haven't heard it for a while. Are most of your journeys short duration ? Maybe a couple of longer runs will get the Cat up to temperature and clear it Dave

Hi Alex Welcome to the Forum 804415 ....Radio remote control.... Permanent (replaced the battery in the remote, deleted code but it came back) Have you tried another key or do you just have the 1 ? Try using a good contact cleaner on the Battery contacts 80442A .....Light operating unit .... Intermittent Sounds like the Rotary control switch unplug it and contact cleaner again plug and switch 48069E ..... Wheel calibration....permanent The next 6 codes are all related either the TPMS control is having a hissy fit or one or more of the wheel sensors have an issue 4806F4....rear right .... Intermittent 48077C...front left.... permanent 48077D....front right.... permanent 48077E.....rear left .... permanent 48077F....rear right... permanent 13820A...radiator blind blocked..... permanent Have you checked for any physicall blockage ? Check Fuses and Relay 13820B.....radiator blind blocked.... permanent Hope this helps Dave

hi Endrit Welcome to the Forum Some leaks can be a pain to find. I start by first cleaning thoroughly then run the engine and start at the top Cam Cover check for signs of a leak working down to the drip point Are you sure of the engine our friends car same year as yours is B47 Dave

Hi Sam Not sure what Diagnostic you used as I can't find that code ( use ISTA/INPA BMW specific) the only 480 codes I have seen are DPF driven so really odd. As for the ABS you can remove the control unit from the pump (4 Torx Bolts) without removing/disturbing the Hydraulics then send it to someone like ECU Testing who repair them. Before doing that it's worth checking the loom for damage Hope this helps Dave

Morning Daniel Welcome to the Forum My first thought is get a Diagnostic scan done, second thought is early 2000's BMW's many suffered a lurch in the transmission when stopping. When was the transmission serviced last ? I haven't heard of people suffering this from the lurch for years Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum If you are not aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections (not sure if it will be in Trim or Electrical) for the correct Part Number. When you have it search the Internet for the best supply Good Luck Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum That doesn't look right, was the belt that came off fraying on the inside or outside (very disappointing the garage didn't pick it up) is it catching somewhere I wonder? If changing drive belts I change tensioners and water pump while I am in there. Never don it on a 116d though Dave

Morning Luke Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the sections for what you need. It will give you small exploded drawings and part numbers, double click the part numbers and it will show any alternatives and other models it was used on Good Luck Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum Check the FuseCheck.com website you should find graphics and descriptions to answer your question Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Looks very pretty and it seems your not afraid to raid the piggy bank looking after it ENJOY Tyres you can fit Non-runflat tyres to runflat rims but not the other way round, it will allow a greater choice of tyre. As your car is Xdrive you need to ensure tyres are correct sizes or you will be raiding the piggy bank for transmission repairs. Not sure about the last part of your post are you selling parts or looking to buy another E46 ? Dave

Morning Gerry You can use direct mail through the site Dave

Sorry Stu Just back in and had a rummage the seat adjuster must have been binned last clear out If your seat has memory the part number52108240108 item 4 in the drawing it was used in the E series car plus the Z4 so the Bay should have one Dave

Hi Neil Welcome to the Forum I am not sure you have a Starter Relay on the Mini but I don't own one so could be wrong have you checked all fuses Engine bay and Passenger footwell there is a website Fusecheck.com if you aren't aware that should give all the information you need plus the location in the car Good Luck Dave

Hi Zed Welcome to the Forum Head and Heart never buy with your heart Head says History History History, as for your video not sure what your looking for so difficult to give an opinion sorry. Service history and receipts for any additional work carried out along with general condition interior wear and Tyres, How clean is the oil all things I look at Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Morning Stu I did have a seat control unit if my old brain is working I will have a dig in the garage when I get back from the shoot today Dave

Morning Paul Oh Oh sounds as though the condensation/water has got into the electrics. It may be possible to dismantle the unit and change the controls, I would check realoem to see if parts are swappable Dave

Hi Rhys My guess would be that the diff issue was prior damage and that's why you have New Correct tyres now. There is a Register of BMW Dismantlers worth a Google and try a few others. If you aren't aware try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then search Front axel. When you have the part numbers if you double click the part number you will get a list of alternatives plus a list of other models it was used in. It may help widen the search Dave

Morning William Welcome to the Forum Yes the N57 and N47 do have a reputation for consuming oil BMW do quote 1ltr per 1000 miles. However a friends X6 needed work on the Turbo when that was done new Turbo seals were installed and his oil consumption has dropped dramatically. I have also read PCV leaks or issues can cause higher consumption The pipes, Turbo to Intercooler and Intercooler to Inlet Manifold are clip on, and if they are not seated correctly or the sealing ring is damaged they can give issues. So make sure the connection is clean and the sealing ring in good condition Dave

Hi Rhys Worth asking Quarry if they have a Handbook for your model As your car is a 4.0d I would guess Fronts are 285x40x20 and Rear are 315x35x20 Tyres need to be same make and wear across axels and front and rear. BMW X series are sensitive to small differences in rolling tyre diameter I check by making a chalk mark at the bottom of the tyres front and rear with the car parked on a flat surface roll it forward 2 or 3 revolutions all 4 chalk marks should be almost in the same place. If they aren't there could be a problem ahead I am uncertain what you mean by Software upgrades the Infotainment and Satnav is about all I can think of the Engine DDE is set as is the Gearbox (that is ZF software anyway) when my E70 needed Satnav upgrades I changed the whole screen to an Android unit the complete screen was cheaper than the Satnav software from BMW plus it is freely upgradeable gives Android Auto and Carplay plus I no use Spotify for most of my music now and the unit still allows all the BMW OBC functions as well Plus Plus for me Dave

Morning Rhys Welcome to the Forum Front Diff damage is normally caused by mismatched tyres so before spending your Hard Earned money make sure Front and Rear tyres are (a) the correct sizes and (b) all the same make and wear. It only takes one tyre to be out of sync to cause Transmission Wind up and damage. Front Diff you have the Part Numbers the discontinued and it's replacement either will do check online but also check BMW specialist dismantlers such as Quarry Motors. As for fitting if you can DIY it's obviously cheaper if not a BMW Specialist or good Independent Garage is the route. Once sorted I would change the Transfer case fluid and Rear Diff oils as well if I recall your Rear Diff has 3 chambers and needs 2 different fluids As for the rest if you are not aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then search the different sections it will give correct part numbers and small exploded drawings which help to see how where things fit. If someone has had a fiddle with the Door handle the small LED may have just fallen inside and only needs refitting (seen several) Hope this helps Good Luck Dave

Morning Gerry Get a copy of BMW ISTA/INPA it will give you full dealer access plus includes full Workshop information and Wiring Diagrams. Like you I have serviced my own cars since the 1960's when Computer diagnostics began to become common in the 1980's I brought my first OBD tool. Then when Volvo became more specific (had Volvo 760, 960, 850, and V70) I obtained a copy of Volvo diagnostics, then Mercedes Star and in 2002 BMW INPA for the first X5 Currently I have ISTA/INPA so still carrying out my own diagnostics and servicing, the advantage of ISTA is if there are software upgrades if you can obtain them they also can be carried out with ISTA BMW have now resorted to upgrades only being provided from their servers so they retain control Enjoy your G80 Dave

Morning Stu First engine running and Voltage check at the charge points the alternator should be providing 14.5v min (normally 14.6v) so battery will be slowly drained. But as you know low voltages can throw up all sorts of issues. Battery at rest 12.5v is OK healthy battery, alternators are tough so I would suspect the Voltage regulator Looking at your scanner the throttle body is sticking so needs a clean out Not unusual for the Drivers seat control unit to go AWOL on the E53 and that does affect other functions (steering wheel adjustment if electric) so that needs a look and maybe unrelated Good Luck lets hope it's the simple fix Dave As for the Porker tyre, I have a small compressor and a Tyre Plug repair kit (tempt fate now) I have used it 3 times all on friends and neighbours cars not mine and it works really well. The last time was on the shoot in the middle of nowhere a Disco with a flat front tyre and like most modern cars no spare we could see the puncture (a screw). Let the air out of the tyre pull out the screw clean the hole with the tool in the plug kit insert the plug with the tool provided and trim it off pump up the tyre, job done and we didn't even take the wheel off the car that was last year and he is still driving on it. Though the kit does advise get it fixed properly. All of the 3 I have fixed have driven on the repair until tyre change time. That would be the route I would take, I have seen compressors for around £20 and my plug repair kit was £10

Morning Nick Just looking at those initial screens I am not surprised your having problems 1st screen tells you that several control units are not communicating correctly as they have faults stored light brown colour and one greyed out and another is red not operating at all 2nd two screens show a list of faults and an explanation of what they are Your first job is the Control units they should all be in the Green. You need to investigate each one in turn to fix the faults. Once a Fault is repaired the fault will remain in the memory unless cleared by you. Clearing a fault doesn't fix it though it may allow normal running for a period until it returns Next stubborn faults remaining may need further investigation. ISTA is a very powerful program but it can't fix things you have to do that. ISTA will give you a test plan to rectify it also contains workshop information and wiring diagrams plus pictures of components and where they are located it will even list tools required. Dave