Greydog

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum I find it hard to believe that a Main Dealer responded in that way, the car records ALL faults and their equipment should show it as a fault Present or fault Not Present? You don't want to compromise your Warranty however you could try a different Main Dealer. I would write to the Dealer MD a copy to the service manager and BMW UK Customer Service stating the facts of their investigation and efforts to fix it that have failed, point out that the car in it's current state is "unsuitable for purpose" and ask for a detailed course of action and time scale to resolve the issue. Good Luck Dave

Hi Hamid Welcome to the Forum First check the engine bay side there is a distribution valve and Auxiliary water pump make sure it's working. Then inside the car if all fans and controls are working check the Final Stage Resistor (used to be a common fail on E53 X5's) Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model, then check the Heater section you should find the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) in the blower motor. You will now have all the part numbers you need to find a replacement at a sensible price. The FSR on X5 E53 models was a fiddle to change but not beyond anyone with a bit of sense Dave

Morning Andrew Someone with the software can trigger a Regen if your isn't doing it it's self. For the regen cycle to trigger you need at least a half hour forty minutes with revs at 2500 or above you also need all the Glo plugs working as BMW use them to boost cylinder temps. Now the actual DPF, depending on DPF age and the type of journeys undertaken we are back to Software to measure the ASH content % as this is the bit that tells the car to show the warning and eventually go into limp mode. Solutions (1) take it for a good trash (Italian Tune Up) see if that works (2) Software there are several Diagnostic systems now capable but as I have INPA/ISTA that is my weapon of choice (3) Last is the Garage many will recommend NEW DPF ££ some will recommend DPF cleaning ££ (friend of our sons had this done seems to work) Both the last options will need software capable of resetting all the DPF adaptions to factory settings Dave

Morning Mick Welcome to the Forum First question why not OEM running boards ? You would then know they will fit here are the OEM parts and fixings If you take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search Body section Once you have all the correct part numbers you can search the Internet for the best supply (remember you need Left and Right parts) You should find parts from BMW Breakers as well as contacting BMW Dealers to see what their prices are like (sometimes a pleasant surprise) Dave

Talked to my Brother Inlaw he is on his 6th 5 series estate he said the first 3 (HID) he would switch over as it was so simple, then apparently with the 4th it was a real faff so he never bothered the last two are LED and he has never had an issue and he does most of his mileage in the France Belgium Netherlands Germany and Poland Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Asif Welcome to the Forum First check to find out where the smoke is coming from, once your sure then make a decision on whether you can (a) DIY or (b) pay a garage. If it is the Garage route then an Internet search for BMW Specialists (there is a Register of BMW Specialists) should bring up a couple at least who are not to far from you. Then talk to them about costs etc Good luck Dave

Hi Tomy Welcome to the Forum When I rebuilt my E53 4.6is I rebuilt the Vanos system from memory the cost was around £65 for all seals and O rings which turned out to be Febi items So are the prices you have for a rebuild kit or a refurbed Vanos ? Dave

Morning Kevin I know that there was an adjustment lever for HID's but I thought I read that LED's had a Flat pattern that cant be adjusted. Does your Local BMW Dealer know more I wonder worth asking As an aside my Brother inlaw has a 5 series Estate and does many miles on the other side of the Channel and I don't recall him doing anything, I will have to ask the question Dave

Morning Paul There are a few others but these guys are very quick (72hr turnaround) in most cases used them several times for ABS units and a couple of times for ECU repairs big advantage with ECU's FRM etc no recoding needed I have also used Cartronix in Surrey but they were quite expensive and slow, end product was great though (upgraded Radio unit in an E53) Good Luck Dave

Hi Paul Just contact https://www.ecutesting.com they are in Derbyshire they offer and excellent service and I have used them several times they also Warranty all their work Worth contacting them and talking through what you need Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum I take it your previous phone was iphone which it seemed worked OK ? If so as nothing else but the phone has changed this is more a question for Apple than BMW Make sure all previous registrations are cleared on the car then re-register your phone if that doesn't work ask one of the Apple Forums Sorry best I can think of for an Old Android Bloke Dave

Hi Rick If you look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model Then search the Audio section you will find small exploded drawings showing where speakers are for each system. Get the part numbers for the HK stuff then search the internet for the best prices and supply. You could get all the HK stuff and AMP and swap them yourself make sure the under seat speakers are there and working then add a sub if you need it May not be as costly as you think Dave

Morning Rick Harman Kardon were the top of the OEM line so a starting point is use a Vin Decoder to check what was fitted at build S676A is Hifi S674A is Harman Kardon Next check that all speakers are working including the central base speakers under the front seats. It isn't unusual for door speakers to fail particularly if there has been water ingress. If everything is working but is standard Hifi an upgrade to HK components may give what you want (Speakers Amp etc) If it is already HK then your in the hands of the aftermarket Audio specialists Hope this Helps Dave

OK checked ISTA WIS (Workshop Information System) and spoke with an ex neighbour who works for BMW ISTA first there is nothing to indicate the filter housing should be changed at intervals. There is a Note to say the filter should be inserted into the filter body then the housing screwed by hand into position. If the filter is inserted in the housing there is a danger it can be cross threaded and the housing damaged do not overtighten My ex neighbour says it was a common mistake putting the filter into the housing and tightening that is where they were cracked Dave

Morning Paul The Filter assembly on my 4.6is is original (car is 22 years old) I have not been aware of changing the Filter assembly as part of a service routine. Later today I will fire up ISTA on my garage laptop and check all the Workshop Instructions then let you know Dave

Morning Larry All the under tray covers from memory but the job was achieved from under the dash. I took out the drivers seat to get more room (disconnect the battery) but if your young and bendy you may be able to get way without removing the seat 🤣 Check the internet for any how too video's 1 2 3 4 series are all very similar. One of the best bits of modern phones is being able to take pictures of how things fit and where they go that will help when putting stuff back If you know anyone with a copy of INPA/ISTA (BMW Diagnostics) it includes TIS (technical Information) and WIS (Workshop Information) which obviously helps knowing how a dealer would go about it Dave Just found this picture shows how the spring fits (this from a friends pic collection Hope it helps

Welcome only one thing to Add to Stu's post " ENJOY" oh and hide your license 😅 Dave

Morning Larry Welcome to the Forum That must make for and interesting drive 😅 135i's are pretty lively so knowing which way it's pointing is a must Take a look at www.realoem,com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then check the Steering section you should find a section for steering column adjustment A friend of one of our sons had a similar issue with his 1 series unfortunately you have to get under the dash to fix it ( it helps to be young and bendy). Look at the small exploded drawing his problem was the spring had broken he managed to get one from the local Dealer (cost him £15 iirc) after that it was a simple fix. Just a Faff to get at Dave

Morning Chris Don't run the pump the washer fluid has to go somewhere 😅 And at the moment it isn't on the back window Dave

Morning Jerry Check www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings can really help understand where things are and how they fit. Make sure parts swapped are correct, also check the intercooler I have seen 2 that were full of oil and had split Don't just check the boost side check all the vacuum lines as well it doesn't take much to upset smooth running How did you get on with the suspension refurb Dave

Hi Chris Welcome to the Forum Sorry can't open your Video However if you check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the vehicle electrical system section it shows the rear wiper assembly complete with Spray Nozzle You will also see all the part numbers if you need to buy one you should find it under the rear spoiler above the back window I believe Good luck Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Makes you wonder about the service book is it really for the same car? Then again with extended service periods the oil will get very black and thick. If the engine is running well first job would be drain some oil then add an engine flushing agent run the engine to clean as much crud as possible then drain and new filter, add cheap oil and more flushing agent and repeat after a couple of flushes it should be much cleaner inside then Filter and a Good Oil Dave

Morning Oliver When I rebuilt my 4.6is there was enough room to get a Stilson pipe wrench on the boss at the back of the pulley. That worked for me As you will be fitting new belts another tip is wrap the old belt around the pulley and clamp it tight with a pair of Mole grips the loose end of the belt clamp to the front subframe that should give enough of an anchor to torq things up don't reuse the old bolts as they are already stretched. Good Luck Dave

Hi Oliver There are many bolts that require Torq plus a Degree tightening sequence so best to stick to the sequence or you could over stretch the bolts and end up with them failing I have a 1/2" drive degree tool but you can cut a circle of cardboard and mark 0, 90, 180, 270 off in pen then mark 3 equal sections in each segment. Torque to 40Nm then put your card in place mark the 0 point on the car with tippex. Now you can turn the bolt 90 plus one segment (30d) for your 120d, always tighten in a diagonal pattern Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum First start with a search for the correct part number for your car use www.realoem.com (if you are not aware it is an online BMW parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the Exhaust section (is your car EU3, EU5, EU6) Once you have the correct part number use it to find the best supplier/price (£300 to £400) would be my expectation remember you may have to add clamps and gaskets to the price. If the part is correct fitting should be straight forward it will however need setting up. Depending on labour cost I would guess the whole job to be £800 to £1000 depending on what additional parts are needed Remember you can't just bolt it on, the ECU has to be set up to know the car has a new DPF (your garage should know that) Also make sure the Glow plugs and Controller are working correctly or the Regen cycle wont work correctly. Hope that helps Dave