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Hi Hamid Welcome to the Forum First check the engine bay side there is a distribution valve and Auxiliary water pump make sure it's working. Then inside the car if all fans and controls are working check the Final Stage Resistor (used to be a common fail on E53 X5's) Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model, then check the Heater section you should find the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) in the blower motor. You will now have all the part numbers you need to find a replacement at a sensible price. The FSR on X5 E53 models was a fiddle to change but not beyond anyone with a bit of sense Dave

After many months of messing with door i decided to try, again, the key in the door after about 10 tries THE DOOR OPENED!!! So I can finally get door panel off to access and replace the actuator. Thank you to everyone that responded and tried to help me. And to Greydog...I found the lever you were talking about.

Morning Phil First thought "is it a genuine wide body or an aftermarket kit that's been fitted" I would check one of the Vin Decoder websites using the Vin number to see what the original build sheet tells you. As it may be a rare customer special order One of our Z car owners may have more thoughts Dave

You have a "list of jobs" too 🤣 I tried confusing her by starting at the bottom I thought if she saw ticks near the bottom 😅 Top tip it didn't work 🤣

Hi all, just an update to my previous post. Finally resolved my problem, with no help from BMW…… Had to replace the generator/starter/alternator unit to sort the problem, having 1st replaced the 48v battery to eliminate that from being the problem, which it wasn’t. So just over 3 years old, less than 70k on the clock and the MHEV system started breaking down. As time went on the issue got worse and resulted in numerous unexpected ‘shut downs’ whilst driving and on one occasion a complete electrical failure due to a flat 12v battery which wasn’t being charged. Lesson from that episode was that I constantly charged the battery when not in use to avoid a si,liar situation…. Hearing more and more people with the same problem and BMW parts confirming they are getting numerous enquiries every week for the component, so clearly BMW have a longevity issue with the system. Going to be a lot of unhappy customers. BMW of course denied there was an issue , weren’t willing to resolve the problem and instead said ‘take it to a main dealer have them identify the problem and if clearly a BMW design or manufacturing problem, they might consider a contribution to the cost’. I could see running up a huge bill at main dealer rates and then getting a minor contribution from BMW if I was lucky so opted to get it fixed by my local independent who was excellent with it. Fortunately, the vehicle was fixed and drove like a dream again, I forgot how good it was! But as the title says MHEV owners beware!1

Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.

Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave

Hi Jock. Is the car 4 wheel drive? 4x4 centre bearing? that would be my first guess. does it make the noise when stationary?

Hi Paul Just contact https://www.ecutesting.com they are in Derbyshire they offer and excellent service and I have used them several times they also Warranty all their work Worth contacting them and talking through what you need Dave

Hi Dave Thanks for the reply, very much appreciate it. I've done just that and found a few garages relatively local so will start to work through them. Hopefully it can get resolved now, its been stood a while. Thanks - Paul

Hi Greydog, While I had some troubles loading INPA from my laptop, I want to report back that I have successfully re-coded the RDS module using Pro Tool. Now all is working perfectly! Thanks for all your previous help! Best, JC

Morning Lissa Welcome to the Forum I guess the first step is getting an estimate of cost to repair, then measure that against cost of changing the car One of our sons (a tree surgeon) had his pick up written off by driver who claimed it was parked in a dangerous spot ?? Straight road two wheels on the grass verge and warning signs out as they were working as well, Police checked the guys phone records he was texting at the time ?? Hope you find away to get the car sorted Dave Sunny Sussex UK (and it is today 😊

Hi Greydog, Thanks for your time checking on the i-Carsoft unit! I will be looking to obtain a copy of the ISTA then! Best, JC

My thought is that the maf sensor is working correctly. did you reset the adjustments and parameters after replacing it? I agree with @Greydog. check the inlet pipe between the maf sensor and the throttle body for any cracks, especially on the elbow part. Throttle body could also be the issue. my x5 has the 3.0i engine and was all over the place with idle and cutting out etc. it was the throttle body which was faulty , but while I replaced it, I found the inlet pipe had little splits in it at the elbow folds and was leaking in air, confusing the mixture as the new maf sensor was saying one thing and the air ratio was another. The old maf sensor was reading a lower value and the engine had over compensated for it. Check for splits, reset the values and see where it goes.

Good morning! My widebodied Z3 is on a W plate (Feb 2000) and it has the 2.0 straight 6 cylinder engine. As far as I know the 4 cylinder was fitted to some of the widebody models (I saw one in a garage recently) but not sure why you would want to go with the 4 cylinder over the 6 cylinder as they are worlds apart and the 6 cylinder will go on forever with makes for a much more exciting drive. Plenty of Z3's on the market at the moment and they are certainly increasing in value so pick one up soon before the prices get out of hand. I would recommend you look very thoroughly at the metalwork as rust is an issue with some, but by the time the widebody Z3 came in, they seem to have sorted a lot of issues. Let us know how you get on with acquiring one and if you need any further info then just let us know.

Morning Richard If it is an option offered by the Manufacturer it isn't a Modification would be my argument My E70 runs non-run flat tyres due originally to availability the car was originally offered with either run flat and Non Run flat I also have a set of Winter wheels and tyres. Dave

I just been looking at photos of my bmw e 36 and put the registration in and noticed it is still on the road. I put a lot of work into this car and this car was the best car I had and we love to be able to speak to former keeper and see how it’s doing after all the work I put into it with all the interior etc and just to see how it’s doing hope this message can find its way to my old car. The registration is P7 6AAB.

Got to bring it to mechanic i use all the time ....showed him 'report' ...he just started laughing ...he has seen same thing twice already in last 6/9 months with other bmw owners coming from SAME main dealer !!!!!!! guessing they must have surplus damper pulley stock ......

Great little cars Stu A neighbour has one and she loves it they do need a good annual service though, seen several that were unreliable due to not being used much and waiting for the service indicator to tell them it needed service? One was 5 years between services? You will also need a good code reader Dave

Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply and the welcome. Car has only done 33k miles with full service history - never any issues. The tuner in question will be DMS automotive, I believe they are established and have done various things with Carwow and Top Gear. Slightly on the higher end price wise but believe it would be stupid to cheap out on something like this. I also don't plan on being a boy racer, I just want the extra power for the odd over take and to prevent the delays from the automatic gearbox. Thanks again for the help! Seb

Hi Seb Welcome to the Forum First make sure the engine is in Tip Top condition and well serviced (don't forget Transmission and Diff) if it is then you should have no issues. I would ask how many they have done and see if you can talk to other owners Most problems occur when ECU tuning is carried out on a mechanically sad engine and it then gets heavily used, result an engine failure with the tuning blamed. Most issues are heavy right foot is my experience Dave

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave

It shifts!!! 😂😂😂

Ha...I just sold my Porsche (2001 Boxster S) and now have a 420D convertible (with remap). The Boxster was a beautiful car and very energetic but my body is getting old and decrepit and falling out onto the pavement to get out was a pathetic display ! Anyhow, we now have a cockapoo and she has her own back seat now !! Wish I had bought a 435D in hindsight but lets see what a year or so in this girl will decide !!! PS Good luck with your new Porsche !!!

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Spoilers are and always will be a matter of personal taste, if you were buying from a BMW Dealer they would want to fit a M sport item but if thats what you prefer it looks fine to me not OTT and Boy Racer ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Dave

Decided on reflection, that from these red flags and service history/MOT concerns, I'm not going ahead with the purchase. Thanks for the advice!

Hi Philip Welcome to the Forum If I recall the Power Steering Fluid was originally a Febi part not sure if it was the Green one to protct seals etc Try taking a look at www.realoem.com Classic section or even ask your Dealer Parts dept they do some good deals on older models Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Sadly we do live in times where extra protection is needed The good old Stop Lock is an excellent visual deterent. Whether the investment in a ghost immobiliser as well is worth the money no one can say untill it is needed. Personally the Stop Lock would be my choice (I use one when we are away from home) Dave

Hi Dave, It appears that my Ista+ was out of date and the idrive(ecu) software in the vehicle is running the 2018 version, therefore, reading the vehicle with the up to date remote ista from the dealership shows there is nothing wrong with the car. It's already booked for a software update with the 2025 version Thanks!

Good morning all, So, having had my car for a little over 6 months I decided to give the transmission an overdue service. Parts obtained from Autodoc for £205 for ZF service kit, a fill plug & mechatronic sleeve (Just in case) Job wasn't that bad to do. I even found the source of an intermittant rattle from un undershield. Once done I cleared the adaptions & drove up the road, instantly the shifts were noticeably smoother, not that they were too bad before, just slightly less refined. ZF recommend it to be done at 60K I believe, my car has covered 79K miles. I might do just a fluid flush at 100K miles, we'll see...

News to me! Thanks Dave. A wee quick drive 120km to the coast. Apparently there's a place in Benidorm wot copies them. Probably next to a pub that sells beer at £1 a pint. Whoopee...

Thanks Dave, the original map company don’t have a clue what could’ve happened as the garage shouldn’t have been able to do anything. I’ve got it booked in tomorrow somewhere else to take ECU out, see if the map is still there/gone dormant and remap if needed. I’ve just done a 500mile round trip fishing at the weekend to wales so I know for certain it’s not driving as it was and the fuel consumption for this journey I do 2-3 times a years has gone up as well as the car being lethargic. As for the headlamp washers…thanks, I’ll get new ones fitted.

On your advice I have left a message with Ash Motors North Wales. Many thanks again

Morning Stu The fact you have a wiper issue would point me away from the Cluster initially My thoughts are Footwell Module it's in the left hand footwell (well it would be 😅) Run a scan it should show up any issues. The Footwell control module on the 4.6 caused all sorts of odd stuff radio that would randomly turn on/off odd light issues seat controls. BMW say you can't swap them it has to be new and set up by them (wrong of course) I changed mine for an upgraded unit second hand it took longer to remove the old unit and swap it than it did to re-program it cured everything and probably stuff I hadn't found 😅 Dave P.S I wont let the E70 on Whats App or Face Book just in case 🤣

is the new battery coded to the car? Does the car try to start or does it click once? If it clicks once, check the starter motor.

Hi all, I hope you are all well! I thought I’d let others know about my positive experience I had with Precision drive near Southend airport. I was recommended by a friend, who had his E90 updated a while ago. I had messaged Chris at precision drive about getting my F36 updated & addition of CarPlay. He replied with the cost & answered any queries I had. Dropped off car & left it with him. I got a call after 1.5hrs to say the whole car had been updated but there was an issue whilst installing CarPlay (he doesn’t yet have dedicated broadband at his workshop, phone tethering wasn’t sufficient) He has kindly offered to come to my house & apply the CarPlay at a later date. It turns out that my cars never had any software updates applied since new! Instantly I noticed the shifts were smoother & engine was quieter. Should anyone else require their cars updating give Chris a message/call (search Precision Drive) I paid £120 for whole vehicle update, £60 to be paid at a later date for CarPlay activation.

Well….. all I can say is, if the oil leaks onto the ground and you drive forward… then new tyres ain’t gonna do much good! get the oil leaks fixed first, save your engine from blowing up, save money on replacing oil and then get new tyres.

Well all done. If you need to do this you need an extractor to get the injectors out I made my own. Welded an M14 wheel nut to an M12 nut so I could use my Slide hammer 1 2 and 3 popped out really easily 4 5 and 6 no way? Then I talked to a Truck and Plant mechanic he told me they use an air driven vibrating tool to get injectors out. Back home and with the help of one of my sons and an SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel attachment against the underside of the Slide hammer and it worked. It took the best part of Saturday to get the last 3 out but out they came. All back together battery fully charged plugged in the diagnostics and cleared fault memory then reset the Injector adaptions, then 30 seconds of cranking and she burst into life Dave

Hi Daniel The only electrical connection is the under handle LED on the outside door handle. The door handle has a Bowden cable that connects it to the actuator, the actuator has electrical connections to communicate with the cars control system the actuator is bolted inside the door, the inside door handle is also connected to the actuator by a second Bowden cable To work on it you will have to take off the inner door card then carefully peel away the water membrane. Once the actuator is exposed you can get your hand behind it and unhook the Bowden cable then remove the outer handle and unhook the other end of the cable. Fitting the new cable is obviously the reverse Dave

Thanks Paul I will trawl my notes and contacts to see if I can get any information for you Dave

Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave

My 2019 BMW 2 series GT 220d gearbox has gone on 60k miles. Getting it refurbished at present and costing around £4k. BMW absolute scum

Many thanks once again Greydog Dave . I haven't yet contacted my auto electrician friend but when I do I'm sure he will find your information useful and interesting. He will take a while to visit me because of ill health but when he does I will contact you. Many thanks and a happy new year.

Best wishes and here is hoping you all have prosperous 2025

Happy new year sir! thank you for your wisdom and knowledge throughout the year. enjoy a beer or two

Morning Stu The fact that ignition on no engine everything is working but engine start causes the problem would to me suggest a chaffed wire in the starter circuit that is sending power to the sensors/sounder. Thinking out loud here, I would start with the sounder circuit. If the sounder is disabled do you get the visible warnings from the sensors? Dave

Morning Andrew The attached drawing is from www.realoem.com it seems to show you are infact missing a connection (item 6) Dave