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Hi all, just an update to my previous post. Finally resolved my problem, with no help from BMW…… Had to replace the generator/starter/alternator unit to sort the problem, having 1st replaced the 48v battery to eliminate that from being the problem, which it wasn’t. So just over 3 years old, less than 70k on the clock and the MHEV system started breaking down. As time went on the issue got worse and resulted in numerous unexpected ‘shut downs’ whilst driving and on one occasion a complete electrical failure due to a flat 12v battery which wasn’t being charged. Lesson from that episode was that I constantly charged the battery when not in use to avoid a si,liar situation…. Hearing more and more people with the same problem and BMW parts confirming they are getting numerous enquiries every week for the component, so clearly BMW have a longevity issue with the system. Going to be a lot of unhappy customers. BMW of course denied there was an issue , weren’t willing to resolve the problem and instead said ‘take it to a main dealer have them identify the problem and if clearly a BMW design or manufacturing problem, they might consider a contribution to the cost’. I could see running up a huge bill at main dealer rates and then getting a minor contribution from BMW if I was lucky so opted to get it fixed by my local independent who was excellent with it. Fortunately, the vehicle was fixed and drove like a dream again, I forgot how good it was! But as the title says MHEV owners beware!1

Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.

Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave

Gave the car to my mate who gratefully took it for his young family. he took it to his local garage and turns out the camshaft timing sensor was clogged up and misreading. I had changed the inlet and outlet cam sensors but not the camshaft sensor. an engine flush and clean, new oil and spark plugs, a good service and it’s off like a scalded cat! Cost wise it was about £300 to sort. happy days!

Got to bring it to mechanic i use all the time ....showed him 'report' ...he just started laughing ...he has seen same thing twice already in last 6/9 months with other bmw owners coming from SAME main dealer !!!!!!! guessing they must have surplus damper pulley stock ......

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Dave, Many thanks for your reply, yes i would always DIY this … I am fully aware of realoem and have indeed been researching a replacement front diff. anything i’m looking at will be factoring in new oil seals to be fitted also, along with the correct spec diff oil.. will keep this post informed of the outcome.. Dave 👍

Update on this. It was a terminal in the plug. Terminal was not making a good connection with one of the pins on the o2 sensor plug. Extremely annoying but fixed

Hi, thanks for your input, but I've finally found a lens in Australia. It's exactly the right one, so good result. Phil

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Spoilers are and always will be a matter of personal taste, if you were buying from a BMW Dealer they would want to fit a M sport item but if thats what you prefer it looks fine to me not OTT and Boy Racer ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Dave

Hi Dave, It appears that my Ista+ was out of date and the idrive(ecu) software in the vehicle is running the 2018 version, therefore, reading the vehicle with the up to date remote ista from the dealership shows there is nothing wrong with the car. It's already booked for a software update with the 2025 version Thanks!

Well got the 240 back yesterday, have to say excellent service from the main dealer repair centre. New wheel looks great, top pic. Wish I could afford the other 3! Going to see who can match the other ones properly. A front one pictured, not that bad I suppose. Alignment all checked etc. Glad it's back

Good morning Dave True, the one I got ad 79k, full BMW service history and I had to replace almost all gaskets, o rings, hoses, abs sensors, seals, and I still don’t have a fault free car. Although I have just serviced the car, it looks that I should replace the oil sensor just to be on the safe side, I am using the car for family holidays so the last thing I want is to be stranded. Thank you for the support. Very much appreciated!! Take care Dimitri

News to me! Thanks Dave. A wee quick drive 120km to the coast. Apparently there's a place in Benidorm wot copies them. Probably next to a pub that sells beer at £1 a pint. Whoopee...

Morning Stu Ouch!! Fuel pressure check would be my starting place. From memory (old and dodgy) should be around 50psi any thing lower will give the symptoms your getting If I remember Pelican Parts did some great write ups on Fuel delivery and pressure plus stuff on injector testing worth a look at their site I have been told it only hurts when you laugh 🤣 Get well soon Matey Dave

Morning Stu The fact you have a wiper issue would point me away from the Cluster initially My thoughts are Footwell Module it's in the left hand footwell (well it would be 😅) Run a scan it should show up any issues. The Footwell control module on the 4.6 caused all sorts of odd stuff radio that would randomly turn on/off odd light issues seat controls. BMW say you can't swap them it has to be new and set up by them (wrong of course) I changed mine for an upgraded unit second hand it took longer to remove the old unit and swap it than it did to re-program it cured everything and probably stuff I hadn't found 😅 Dave P.S I wont let the E70 on Whats App or Face Book just in case 🤣

Thanks for all the help Dave. I have finally sorted it! I removed the Telematic Unit and took a closer look. The 4 terminals that connect to the fin were twisted and not aligned correctly. I fiddled around a bit and managed to sort these out. Next I checked the battery. The terminals were not actually touching the contacts when the lid was closed. This was mainly due to the fact that the clip on the lid had broken off and the lid was not closing fully to push the battery onto the contacts. So I bent the contacts out slightly, and stuck a piece of card on top of the battery and closed the lid and taped shut with some masking tape! Replaced the unit, connected the three cable connectors, and closed the tailgate. Waited a while and switched on the ignition and all the codes had cleared on there own!! No need to clear any faults. After checking all faults, nothing found!! After thinking that it could cost me a new Unit and Fin costing megga bucks, it cost nothing more than a new battery (£25) and a bit of elbow grease. Boy am I pleased!! I

Well all done. If you need to do this you need an extractor to get the injectors out I made my own. Welded an M14 wheel nut to an M12 nut so I could use my Slide hammer 1 2 and 3 popped out really easily 4 5 and 6 no way? Then I talked to a Truck and Plant mechanic he told me they use an air driven vibrating tool to get injectors out. Back home and with the help of one of my sons and an SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel attachment against the underside of the Slide hammer and it worked. It took the best part of Saturday to get the last 3 out but out they came. All back together battery fully charged plugged in the diagnostics and cleared fault memory then reset the Injector adaptions, then 30 seconds of cranking and she burst into life Dave

Morning Barry Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the cars Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the body section. You should find all the information you need you should find exploded drawings that indicate where stuff goes and the part numbers which will help in your search. the bonnet I believe is just mechanical alignment and hinges with gas strut assistance. Once you have the information Google BMW Specialist Recyclers/Dismantlers and you should then be able to contact them to see who has what you need Good Luck with the Project let us know how you get on Dave

Morning Paul Sorry Paul it's been a crazy end to the shooting season From my notes nothing I am afraid but from a BMW contact apparently the sequence is "Ignition on all lights show as part of the self check, Crank and start and they should go out apart from seat belt if it isnt plugged in" Dave

Hi Daniel The only electrical connection is the under handle LED on the outside door handle. The door handle has a Bowden cable that connects it to the actuator, the actuator has electrical connections to communicate with the cars control system the actuator is bolted inside the door, the inside door handle is also connected to the actuator by a second Bowden cable To work on it you will have to take off the inner door card then carefully peel away the water membrane. Once the actuator is exposed you can get your hand behind it and unhook the Bowden cable then remove the outer handle and unhook the other end of the cable. Fitting the new cable is obviously the reverse Dave

Hi Ken It shouldn't be possible to fit an OEM or OEM style replacement wrongly as the joins are 3 bolt flanges. So my guess would be either it is an After Market exhaust or a support hanger is broken/missing If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com its an online BMW parts list, go to the Classic section then the model your considering check the exhaust section which will show both front and rear parts are fitted and supported. Dave

Thanks Paul I will trawl my notes and contacts to see if I can get any information for you Dave

Another year coming to a close 😁 Wishing everyonea Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Hoping nothing wears out or drops off and the same goes for your cars Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave

According to www.realoem.com the part is 06 Positive battery lead 1 61126929715 Looking at the drawing it connects between the power lead right connection in your Photo and the main power distribution on top of the battery arrowed in your photo Dave

Karl If you have a seized level sensor arm either change it or lubricate it as it really could be your issue. Fix faults first other wise trying to reset Fault Codes is a waste of time as they will just return. As I understand it each Headlamp has 3 modules (1) a main Headlamp module (2) a Headlamp Control Module (3) a Cornering Module make sure the plugs are clean unplug them a spray with Contact Cleaner and reconnect making sure they are seated correctly Then try disconnecting the battery to clear faults Dave

Hi Dave, the guy said they only use LUK or SACHS so we will see how it goes. Its not going in until Oct 6th so I will use it until then. I will let you know how it turns out. thanks Paneuro.

As an after thought just checked my rear sensor it had been dislodged and set back so was seeing th bumper edge as a hazard, Dohhh So check they are all sitting right Dave

Hi Dave, thanks for the insight! Guess I might need to rethink my Bimmer plans if walking and cabs are quick and easy. Those museums you suggested sound awesome! I was also thinking about how to get to the Colosseum, I'll probably end up being one of those 'darned tourists' myself! 😂 I read that it might be possible to skip the lines and get tickets by hiring some local guides. I'll look into https://gowithguide.com/Italy/rome/guides if they book tickets in bulk ahead of time.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ice cream would be easier to clear up 🤣🤣 Got a fold up dog cage I could lend you as long as no one dobs us in to Child Welfare 🤣🤣🤣

Morning Stu She has it in for you 🤣 The job is really simple takes longer to uncover the throttle body than actually change it. 4 bolts hold it in place unplug it and don't drop the seal when you take it off. As an aside have you checked the Vac lines that connect to it's mount. If I remember take the covers off take the big elbow that goes to the Maff off 4 M6 bolts (I think) hold the Throttle body to the inlet manifold there is a seal between the manifold and the throttle body dont do my trick and drop it 🤣 Check realoem that may help Enjoy your Saturday Dave

God afternoon David and welcome to the forum. very nice car and a good colour choice! it’s been a while since I modded exhausts but I’m sure power flow or similar can give you what you need

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box (one car at a time) then check the wheels section. Check the wheel szes for both cars and the wheel Offset so you know they clear Brake Calipers The only other thing is check the spigot ring measure ment on both wheels Hope this Helps Dave

👍🤣👍 A job well done

Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check

Hose worked so all back together now must.of bought about 5 hoses

Morning John Welcome to the Forum You need a BMW capable Diagnostic reader most readers will only see the basic Engine management. Your fault could be Fuel Delivery, Fuel rail pressure, Fuel pump relay, Turbo Actuator the list of possible causes goes on Dave

Morning Steven As far as I am aware you need to change the complete assembly as I haven't heard or read of anyone servicing them. You could try companies like Cartronix or ECU Testing (Google should help find them) both have good Reputations As far as I know the butterfly is closed until energised, then open enough to allow idle settings Good Luck Dave

Update! turns out i was not being silly! the actual Uk part number is 51238402614. it is specific to RHD cars and not on the parts lists. ( bmw have it as 615 showing the LHD version, which is all people seem to stock. ) picking one up from my next local dealership this week for £25! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thank you for info. Got my manual at https://repairmanualnow.com/product-category/cars/bmw/ and it looks good will post some screenshots later on.

Bmw z3 2.2i sapphire edition individual model 2002 11 months mot no advisories Some service history Just under 1k spent last year Has had new rear discs and pads also Car is very clean for its age,has small bits off laquer peel on front and rear bumper Any more info please asks £7000

It's a 2.8 with just under 40k on the clock will need all the ushall things done breaks shockes etc etc sills etc look but please come and view for yourself before bidding...no advisories on previous mots for rust, need a good wire brush underneath and parts will need replacing as it has been sitting for 5 years on road not grass and been undercover, Stunning black and blue leather interior some wear on drivers seat, leather paint will easily sort this. If ur looking for a cracking low millage low owner project then look no further, projects like this dont come along to often, runs really good engine is very strong but obviously it will need a full service,abs light and traction control light on probably due to being sittin Exterior had no rust apart from stone chips that have got bit rusty there is a few scratches on the boot lid and couple of small marks around body work £3500 £4k with new parts

Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook and settings in the iDrive/infotainment system, check the media for any videos that may help with settings If all else fails try your dealer as your car is under Warranty if it isn't something you have done they should fix it Good Luck Dave

yes - changed out both cam sensors - exhaust side one had engine oil inside- and all been well since

Morning Stu Mole grips on the cable end has always worked for me Just asked an ex BMW Tech he says same part just the lever and mount are handed Dave

For anyone else, found a great youtube footage on a fix for this, which is to use a self adhesive foam pushed between the 'eyebrow' and headlight which seals that route for water. You can then get lamps out use hairdryer to dry light out an a wire rid with cloth to clean the inside of the lens before putting headlight bulb back and back into service. Looks like a good fix, needs patience but best I have seen. Here is the link.