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Morning Paul Wow that stirs the old grey matter I take it your familiar with www.realoem.com check the Classic section or BMW have a Classic section try their Customer services (I am told they can be slow) If I recall alarms were not a standard fitting back then so you may find Baur fitted it when they retrimmed the car Maybe a question to Baur in Stuttgart I am sure they will have an Archive Good Luck Dave

Hi Hamid Welcome to the Forum First check the engine bay side there is a distribution valve and Auxiliary water pump make sure it's working. Then inside the car if all fans and controls are working check the Final Stage Resistor (used to be a common fail on E53 X5's) Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model, then check the Heater section you should find the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) in the blower motor. You will now have all the part numbers you need to find a replacement at a sensible price. The FSR on X5 E53 models was a fiddle to change but not beyond anyone with a bit of sense Dave

After many months of messing with door i decided to try, again, the key in the door after about 10 tries THE DOOR OPENED!!! So I can finally get door panel off to access and replace the actuator. Thank you to everyone that responded and tried to help me. And to Greydog...I found the lever you were talking about.

Morning Phil First thought "is it a genuine wide body or an aftermarket kit that's been fitted" I would check one of the Vin Decoder websites using the Vin number to see what the original build sheet tells you. As it may be a rare customer special order One of our Z car owners may have more thoughts Dave

You have a "list of jobs" too 🤣 I tried confusing her by starting at the bottom I thought if she saw ticks near the bottom 😅 Top tip it didn't work 🤣

Hi all, just an update to my previous post. Finally resolved my problem, with no help from BMW…… Had to replace the generator/starter/alternator unit to sort the problem, having 1st replaced the 48v battery to eliminate that from being the problem, which it wasn’t. So just over 3 years old, less than 70k on the clock and the MHEV system started breaking down. As time went on the issue got worse and resulted in numerous unexpected ‘shut downs’ whilst driving and on one occasion a complete electrical failure due to a flat 12v battery which wasn’t being charged. Lesson from that episode was that I constantly charged the battery when not in use to avoid a si,liar situation…. Hearing more and more people with the same problem and BMW parts confirming they are getting numerous enquiries every week for the component, so clearly BMW have a longevity issue with the system. Going to be a lot of unhappy customers. BMW of course denied there was an issue , weren’t willing to resolve the problem and instead said ‘take it to a main dealer have them identify the problem and if clearly a BMW design or manufacturing problem, they might consider a contribution to the cost’. I could see running up a huge bill at main dealer rates and then getting a minor contribution from BMW if I was lucky so opted to get it fixed by my local independent who was excellent with it. Fortunately, the vehicle was fixed and drove like a dream again, I forgot how good it was! But as the title says MHEV owners beware!1

Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.

Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave

Morning Nick Just looking at those initial screens I am not surprised your having problems 1st screen tells you that several control units are not communicating correctly as they have faults stored light brown colour and one greyed out and another is red not operating at all 2nd two screens show a list of faults and an explanation of what they are Your first job is the Control units they should all be in the Green. You need to investigate each one in turn to fix the faults. Once a Fault is repaired the fault will remain in the memory unless cleared by you. Clearing a fault doesn't fix it though it may allow normal running for a period until it returns Next stubborn faults remaining may need further investigation. ISTA is a very powerful program but it can't fix things you have to do that. ISTA will give you a test plan to rectify it also contains workshop information and wiring diagrams plus pictures of components and where they are located it will even list tools required. Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum ISTA should give you a Test Plan ? just changing the EGS may not be the fix (sadly most Garages change parts to quickly at customer cost) I would first use a good Electrical contact cleaner on the EGS and Loom connector and test continuity on the loom. If the loom and its connections are good check the Internet for EGS tests If after checking everything out it still points to the EGS then there are some things to consider. Early "E" series cars the EGS had no internal ISN (Internal Security Number) Later "E" series cars the EGS with ISN are Grouped with the DME/DDE and CAS so if changing the EGS you will need a Matching DME/DDE and CAS plus polish your skills with ISTA P Hope this helps more than hinders Dave PS. You posted in the 7 series section not X3

Thanks again Dave I had never heard of the VIN Decoder site, looks as if the brakes were an upgrade. Have heard from BMW 7mm on pads and an overall inspection showed no warps. They said to monitor as car has been stood a while, thanks again for ur time

Morning Stephen Happy New Year As the Dealer has accepted responsibility and is offering a courtesy car while repairs are carried out you are in the hands of their Insurers not your own. So If their insurers say like for like your OK, if they say "a courtesy car" it will be pot luck. My own Dealership is using mainly EV Mini's at the moment. Good Luck Dave

I agree. I've also used a square configuration in the winter and found it to be very effective, particularly in the snow. In addition to making life easier, going a little narrower with the appropriate offsets typically results in cost savings.

Welcome James. Enjoy the new motor. We are a knowledgeable and friendly bunch here, so feel free to ask questions and make some friends. Where in the world are you? Stu.

Hi Folks, Had my E24 a while now and working on some slight convenience improvements whilst not changing anything permanently. I've got a magsafe phone holder/charger where the ashtray used to be. To do this I bought the outrageously expensive official BMW ash tray replacement storage box (just a small black plastic box that slides in to replace the ash tray £50!) I then bought this item which is a 3d printed magsafe phone holder designed for the BMW iX https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336310951793 Then bought a standard sized magsafe charging puck. Insert puck into holder Double sided gorilla tape the phone holder to the front inside edge of storage compartment Plug into cig lighter and slide into place (later I will work out how to wire a permanent 12V to a USB C connector and plug the magsafe puck into that so I can loose the ugly cig lighter charger. Works great and can be undone just by pulling out and replacing original ashtray. I believe the E30 shares same ash tray as E24 so should work on old 3 series too! I am in touch with the ebay seller who made the magsafe holder and he's even looking at making a single unit which would be the ashtray replacement storage compartment and the magsafe holder which would be great and safe a lot of cash.

I was wary about taking it to someone without knowledge of how these older R12 based systems work and how to work out the correct R134 oil and gas levels. Found a great guy Paul https://pwautoelectrical.co.uk/ He worked on 80's BMWs when new - doing the aircon installs for dealers as in those days you could either order the car with aircon or get it done at the dealer once delivered. Definitely recommend him for anyone wanting similar. He tested it, found a leak, had to replace a couple of seals and rethread a connector, All good now just need the warm weather :)

Oooooh that’s nice!

Hi Paul Just contact https://www.ecutesting.com they are in Derbyshire they offer and excellent service and I have used them several times they also Warranty all their work Worth contacting them and talking through what you need Dave

It’s linked to the vanos sensor. but firstly, check the oil cap is the correct one and there should be an insert in it.

Hi Greydog, While I had some troubles loading INPA from my laptop, I want to report back that I have successfully re-coded the RDS module using Pro Tool. Now all is working perfectly! Thanks for all your previous help! Best, JC

Hi Greydog, Thanks for your time checking on the i-Carsoft unit! I will be looking to obtain a copy of the ISTA then! Best, JC

Well….. the drop top pug is getting kicked out soon… I went on eBay and made a cheeky bid. off to pick up a nice 4.5 v8 Porsche cayenne up on Saturday !! ironically I won it while I was registering my wife on a speed awareness course 🙄 let’s see how many times the X5 is going to have a hissy fit when this one turns up. 😂

Well… finally got round to taking a pic this morning before I left for work.. the lady next door just rolled up in her new purchase… she said she looked at a Porsche, but as I beat her to it she went for another option! 🙄🙄🙄…

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance at all for a change of tyres then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

I think my X5 was built by the same man….. same loom, same year, same car… different wiring and colours!

I have one! 👍🏻… gearbox is a 5 speed manual… quick on the acceleration but top end is a bit rev hungry. enjoy it!!!

Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply and the welcome. Car has only done 33k miles with full service history - never any issues. The tuner in question will be DMS automotive, I believe they are established and have done various things with Carwow and Top Gear. Slightly on the higher end price wise but believe it would be stupid to cheap out on something like this. I also don't plan on being a boy racer, I just want the extra power for the odd over take and to prevent the delays from the automatic gearbox. Thanks again for the help! Seb

Hi Seb Welcome to the Forum First make sure the engine is in Tip Top condition and well serviced (don't forget Transmission and Diff) if it is then you should have no issues. I would ask how many they have done and see if you can talk to other owners Most problems occur when ECU tuning is carried out on a mechanically sad engine and it then gets heavily used, result an engine failure with the tuning blamed. Most issues are heavy right foot is my experience Dave

Morning James Google the Register of BMW Dismantlers (Quarry Motors have always been useful). For my E53 4.6is I used a local Carpet Fitter he made up a full set for me all edges trimmed and including non slip velcro patches. He used the OEM mats as patterns and off cuts from a Dark Grey High Quality Wilton carpet he had fitted, cost was less than half OEM gave the car a new smell for ages. Dave

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave

Hi, thanks for your input, but I've finally found a lens in Australia. It's exactly the right one, so good result. Phil

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Spoilers are and always will be a matter of personal taste, if you were buying from a BMW Dealer they would want to fit a M sport item but if thats what you prefer it looks fine to me not OTT and Boy Racer ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Dave

Decided on reflection, that from these red flags and service history/MOT concerns, I'm not going ahead with the purchase. Thanks for the advice!

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Sadly we do live in times where extra protection is needed The good old Stop Lock is an excellent visual deterent. Whether the investment in a ghost immobiliser as well is worth the money no one can say untill it is needed. Personally the Stop Lock would be my choice (I use one when we are away from home) Dave

Stu, this is tremendously helpful, can't thank you enough. I've ordered the unit from AZ. I'll update you on the results. Thank you. Norm.

Good morning all, So, having had my car for a little over 6 months I decided to give the transmission an overdue service. Parts obtained from Autodoc for £205 for ZF service kit, a fill plug & mechatronic sleeve (Just in case) Job wasn't that bad to do. I even found the source of an intermittant rattle from un undershield. Once done I cleared the adaptions & drove up the road, instantly the shifts were noticeably smoother, not that they were too bad before, just slightly less refined. ZF recommend it to be done at 60K I believe, my car has covered 79K miles. I might do just a fluid flush at 100K miles, we'll see...

Morning Stu Ouch!! Fuel pressure check would be my starting place. From memory (old and dodgy) should be around 50psi any thing lower will give the symptoms your getting If I remember Pelican Parts did some great write ups on Fuel delivery and pressure plus stuff on injector testing worth a look at their site I have been told it only hurts when you laugh 🤣 Get well soon Matey Dave

On your advice I have left a message with Ash Motors North Wales. Many thanks again

🤣 They may have their own Whats App Group 🤣🤣 scary who knows with AI Guess that means we are in trouble Dave

Superb news for older models of BMW, even up to the Z4 https://www.bmwgroup-classic.com/en/offers-and-services/bmw-classic-reproductions.html

Hi all, I hope you are all well! I thought I’d let others know about my positive experience I had with Precision drive near Southend airport. I was recommended by a friend, who had his E90 updated a while ago. I had messaged Chris at precision drive about getting my F36 updated & addition of CarPlay. He replied with the cost & answered any queries I had. Dropped off car & left it with him. I got a call after 1.5hrs to say the whole car had been updated but there was an issue whilst installing CarPlay (he doesn’t yet have dedicated broadband at his workshop, phone tethering wasn’t sufficient) He has kindly offered to come to my house & apply the CarPlay at a later date. It turns out that my cars never had any software updates applied since new! Instantly I noticed the shifts were smoother & engine was quieter. Should anyone else require their cars updating give Chris a message/call (search Precision Drive) I paid £120 for whole vehicle update, £60 to be paid at a later date for CarPlay activation.

Well all done. If you need to do this you need an extractor to get the injectors out I made my own. Welded an M14 wheel nut to an M12 nut so I could use my Slide hammer 1 2 and 3 popped out really easily 4 5 and 6 no way? Then I talked to a Truck and Plant mechanic he told me they use an air driven vibrating tool to get injectors out. Back home and with the help of one of my sons and an SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel attachment against the underside of the Slide hammer and it worked. It took the best part of Saturday to get the last 3 out but out they came. All back together battery fully charged plugged in the diagnostics and cleared fault memory then reset the Injector adaptions, then 30 seconds of cranking and she burst into life Dave

Morning Barry Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the cars Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the body section. You should find all the information you need you should find exploded drawings that indicate where stuff goes and the part numbers which will help in your search. the bonnet I believe is just mechanical alignment and hinges with gas strut assistance. Once you have the information Google BMW Specialist Recyclers/Dismantlers and you should then be able to contact them to see who has what you need Good Luck with the Project let us know how you get on Dave

Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum What a strange anomaly For years we had a place in Portugal and I kept a car there but have to say 10 years ago it was simple Bluetooth connection for calls. I guess have you talked to Apple to see if it is something they can help with? maybe clone your Spanish phone so at least you have your data Good Luck Dave

Hi Daniel The only electrical connection is the under handle LED on the outside door handle. The door handle has a Bowden cable that connects it to the actuator, the actuator has electrical connections to communicate with the cars control system the actuator is bolted inside the door, the inside door handle is also connected to the actuator by a second Bowden cable To work on it you will have to take off the inner door card then carefully peel away the water membrane. Once the actuator is exposed you can get your hand behind it and unhook the Bowden cable then remove the outer handle and unhook the other end of the cable. Fitting the new cable is obviously the reverse Dave

Hi Ken It shouldn't be possible to fit an OEM or OEM style replacement wrongly as the joins are 3 bolt flanges. So my guess would be either it is an After Market exhaust or a support hanger is broken/missing If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com its an online BMW parts list, go to the Classic section then the model your considering check the exhaust section which will show both front and rear parts are fitted and supported. Dave

here is a link to all bmw owners hand book pdf file free to download http://bmwsections.com

For anyone else, found a great youtube footage on a fix for this, which is to use a self adhesive foam pushed between the 'eyebrow' and headlight which seals that route for water. You can then get lamps out use hairdryer to dry light out an a wire rid with cloth to clean the inside of the lens before putting headlight bulb back and back into service. Looks like a good fix, needs patience but best I have seen. Here is the link.