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Hi Richard...welcome to the Forum As Dave has already stated...Enjoy! If it happens, it happens! Until then, enjoy driving it and don't worry. Cheers . Trevor

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum, congratulations on your purchase. Service history as always is paramount same with any car, also check with BMW for any recalls/updates that have been due and were they carried out. If your X3 has a staggered wheel set up (wider rear tyres) take care when replacing tyres make sure all 4 are from a good manufacturer differences in rolling circumference can cause transmission wind up and damage to the transfer box. This applies to all X drive cars and BMW recommend * rated tyres. If the wheels are same size on each corner it is more forgiving but you should still check that all tyres are from a recognized manufacturer and the correct size at least then you have a chance the rolling radius is within tolerance. Apart from that they are good cars ENJOY If the worst happens there is loads of support here Dave

Hi Andrew....welcome to the Forum There is a thread on this forum that has been running for the past two to three weeks with very similar issues on a 3 series I believe....worth searching for this one as it had very similar information. In respect of the steering / suspension geometry being misaligned - uneven tyre wear....I would find out why this is as opposed to allowing them to just adjust settings, as this may be the cause for the excess noise (wheel bearings, worn suspension joints, etc). Let us know how it is all going Cheers, Trevor Greydog - maybe one for you as you are the X5 specialist

I don't know if there are differences in the set up between the two models, in reality I wouldn't think there is much. I have alignment checked annually at service and the last time I noticed the print out said E70 mine is E53 but checking settings against the previous year there was 1/2 deg on camber at the rear difference. Annual service will be due again next month and I have no noticeably odd tyre wear in 11k so seems OK. Lets hope this fixes or at worst reduces your wear to a manageable level, thanks for the update it's useful information for others looking for ideas to cure similar issues

Yay Good news Maggie Hope it wasn't to painful on the wallet, here's to you enjoying many miles trouble free Dave

Morning Maggie and welcome Has anyone looked at the Servo? Vacuum in the servo creates brake assistance when the peddle is pushed. As your issue is at low revs I would suspect a split or perished/cracked vacuum line or failed non return valve from memory there is also a differential pressure sensor on some models. Low revs = low vacuum levels so a cracked or perished line or seal will result in no assistance = hard pedal. If all the vacuum lines .and seals are OK check if you have the pressure differential sensor (there will be a spur off the main vacuum line near the servo to the sensor) it may be faulty, though it should throw a code I would think. You could look on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it's an online parts list but it will show a small drawing and list of parts to help you see where stuff is and make sure you get the right parts for replacement Hope this helps Dave

Hi Ian...welcome to the Forum Have seen this a few times on different cars, proper way would be to remove it and replace the broken clips. Alternatively a bit of glue or self adhesive tape may work

Feels goods defo more power across the revs and puts you back in the seat .he'st quoted 325 bhp 660 nm. I'll no more the more I drove as only took it for a quick blasting last night Simon at e maps seems pretty clued up and showed me some of the peramiters that we would be changing.

cheers again Geoff have contacted bmw £103 was trying to look to see if anyone on here had any idea's

Hi Clive...welcome to the Club Fine looking Bimmer you have there...very stylish rims ! Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Result (not often you get one in your favour) I use www.realoem.com its a BMW parts list (if your not already aware) for all models put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your specific model. Lost's of information and exploded drawings that help, I also use Pelican Parts an american site they are useful for "how too's" with pictures maybe not much use to you as the cousins across the pond still think a diesel is a truck!! Enjoy your car Dave

Does This Help According to our sources, oil, coolant and fuel capacity for this version of 2016 BMW 335d xDrive are as follows: Engine lubricant oil capacity: 6.5 liter / 6.9 U.S. qt / 5.7 imp. qt oil change Engine coolant capacity: Fuel tank capacity: 57 liter / 15.1 U.S. gal / 12.5 imp. gal Battery capacity (Ah): 90

That's the dilemma....I certainly don't have sound switched on (my dialogue could be construed as aggressive towards other motorists) and I also notice that I tend to drive more considerately when the dash cam is running. So it can be used to moderate your driving style but also as you say, it can condemn in the event of an accident where it is your word against theirs. You don't have to forward to footage to insurance companies though but in the clear-cut case of the other motorist being at fault then it's a definite 'must have' driving accessory.

Have a look on www.realoem.com in the serial number box put the last 7 digits of your vin it will pull up the parts list for your car including engine type. I find it a great source of information

Hi Miguel and welcome to the Forum I personally find the feature annoying although in a city with constant start-stop traffic it can be a blessing. The feature can be switched off it annoys you so your choice really. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

How did you get on in the end? . . Mikeyp @ TMS Motorsport Email us : sales@tmsmotorsport.co.uk WhatsApp us for fast response : +447979127236 . . TMS Motorsport – FERODO PADS – BUY ONLINE - We ship worldwide to your door - - Currently Breaking for parts – Hawkeye Subaru Impreza - Honda S2000 -

INTRODUTION... It may be the cheapest BMW you can buy, but the smallest of the line still packs fine design and handling poiseIt may be small – but it’s every inch a BMW. That said, the 1-series jostles for your buying cash against some serious opposition: Audi’s A3, the Mercedes-Benz CLC/C-class sports coupe and upmarket version of the Volkswagen Golf. It carries a couple of aces with it, though, writes Ray Castle of motors.co.uk. First for some buyers theBMW badge is to hook them. Second, it’s a rear-wheel drive car in a chunk of the market where most are front-drivers. This gives it a sweetness and balance in its drive that no rival can quite match. 1-series comes as five-door hatches, two-door coupes or as a soft-top. Here we’re focusing on the five-door because it’s by far the commonest. HOW MUCH SHOULD I BE PAYING ... Though the first 1-series are now six years old they lose value slower than most, so you’ll need £7500 even for a 2004, 54-reg 116i with 60,000 miles, though you might also find a 118 diesel showing higher miles for that money. Push the budget to £10,000 and you’ll get a 118 turbodiesel Sport from 2006, 56-registered and with 75k miles. Add to your cash pile so you’ve £12,000 and a 116 ES from 2007, 57-registered, that has just 25,000 miles recorded is yours. If you’ve £15,000 to spend, you can buy a 188 SE that’s covered just 10,000 miles and is from 2008 on an 08-reg. WHATS THE BEST MODEL... BMW isn’t over-generous in equipping its cars, so entry models have plastic wheel covers and do without air conditioning, although all have six airbags, anti-lock brakes, remote locking, electric windows and a CD player. Move up to the ES model and you’ll get all that plus air conditioning and alloy wheels, while the jump to an SE model rewards with digital air conditioning, an arm rest and a wheel with multi-function controls. Finally, the Sport brings bigger alloy wheels, lowered suspension and a sporty-trimmed cabin, plus all you’ll get on the SE. Engines run from the 115bhp 116i, which has enough power but isn’t exactly sparkling, to the 130i M Sport, which packs a 3.0-litre, 261bhp engine that delivers true performance car speed. For most buyers, though, the 118i or 120i petrol models are the ones to have, and they produce 135bhp and 150bhp respectively, although the 118 diesel with 120bhp is a good all-rounder, too, while the 163bhp 120 diesel is quick but economical. Diesels are pricier than petrols, so you’ll have to settle for a car a year older on a set budget. We’d go for a 118 diesel SE, or a 118 or 120 SE petrol. Most 1-series have manual gearboxes but those with automatic transmission, while scarce, aren’t usually dearer. From 2006, BMW introduced Efficient Dynamics, which improved fuel economy and lowered emissions across its engine range. A year later, most 1-series gained Stop-Start, which stills the engine to save fuel whenever you’re halted in traffic and you pop the gears to neutral. To re-start, you just dip the clutch and the engine fires. As with its other models, BMW offers a huge array of extras. Look out for well-specified cars but don’t pay extra for them. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY ONE ... BMW’s Approved Used scheme is among the oldest of its type and also ranks as one of the best. Cars get a bumper-to-bumper pre-sales check and any problems found are put right. They’re also sold with at least a year’s warranty cover and breakdown assistance, too. All BMW dealers offer the scheme and most of the cars are relatively new and low-mileage. Prices are often (but not always) on the high side. You also find 1-series at car supermarkets, often at keen prices. For older, cheaper cars, independent dealers would be the first place we’d look, particularly if they specialise in the marque. Finally, don’t rule out the private ads because you might find a bargain nestling among the classifieds. WHAT SHOULD I LOOK OUT FOR ... Relax. All the signs are that the 1-series is exceptionally built and soaks up the miles with little need for more than routine servicing. You should check, though that the gearbox feels slick and precise on high-milers – if it feels sloppy it may need a rebuild soon. On the other hand, if yours has done 10,000 miles of less and the manual shifty feels tight – don’t worry. It’ll just need to cover more miles to loosen it. If the car has Stop-Start, drive it long enough to see that it works correctly – there have been a few cases of the system malfunctioning. BMW issued a recall on cars made between September 2004 and May 2005 to fix a fault with the rear suspension, so if yours is that old, check that the work’s been done. The car’s computer tells you when a service is due so check that one’s not due soon and, if there’s a service history, verify that it’s genuine by calling the dealer who worked on the car last. Insurance runs from group 10 for the 116i to group 17 for the 130i. Servicing is reasonable for a prestige make, while BMW 4-Plus scheme offers sizeable main-dealer discounts for work needed by older cars.

Hi and many thanks in letting me be a part of the forum. I'm in need of help and hopefully somebody can help me, I recently purchased my 520d touring E61 it only came with one key, after having it for 3 months the central locking became intermittent until the other day it lacked up completely. I have had the key checked And that seems to be holding the charge and giving out a good signal, the locking works when using the blade but as you'll no it's a pain in the ##### when the alarm goes off!! I here the diversity antenna mentioned and the wiring in the tailgate any advice or what would be their first port of call?? Help regards mark