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I would guess £500 + + from a Dealer so not exactly dear if yours isn't working 😁 Check www.reaoem.com either search by Vin number then through the sections or by the Part number you have. If you aren't aware double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates. Then check the normal Auction sites but don't forget there is a healthy BMW Specialist dismantler network they may help Dave

I would start with the Antenna get the Part Number from the one in the car or www.realoem.com and find a replacement Changing it will take around Half an Hour reprograming your Keys about 5 to 10 mins Or if your a real Tinkerer you could take the Antenna out open it up and see if you can fix it Dave

You will become our go to man for Diesel fuel systems 🤣🤣 Fuel pressure sensor on the HPFP is just about all that is left Dave

Rants are part of the analysis process ( normally with me it ends with "how did I miss that) so Rant on matey 😅 You are probably on the money with one of the New parts having a fault. One of our sons friend had a problem that was down to the "O" ring seal on the fuel rail pressure sensor. The sensor was new and was fitted by a Garage that had carried out the work similar to yours, car started fine was driven home and sat on his drive for a coupe of days then wouldn't start ?? The Garage due to pressure of work couldn't help for a few days that's when our son volunteered me. We started at the tank and filter and we worked our way forward it was when checking the fuel rail pressure sensor we found a small crack/split in the "O" ring it was enough to not let rail pressure reach and hold sufficient pressure The Garage supplied him a new sensor (FOC) we fitted it and after around a dozen or so cranks it fired up and touch wood is still running OK. His Garage had never seen it before nor had I and personally wouldn't have suspected such a tiny split could be the cause. Hope you find it soon Dave

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum I would start with a careful back track of all work carried out a PITA I know but the only way to be certain each part is OK. Run fuel off after the filter through a Coffee filter paper that will show any metallic swarf if there is any (fingers crossed) Check the rail pressure sensor "O" ring I have seen one with a split that was causing similar issues to those you are getting I believe there is a Bleed sequence in ISTA (never had to use it myself) has that been followed? Still a diesel virgin myself so feeling my way here Dave

I’m trying to sell my OEM 19’’ E92 M3 alloys but struggling to do so on Facebook Marketplace, Gumtree and eBay. Can anyone offer any advice please?

OK, further installment. Many thanks to Greydog for the input. Non cranking has been getting worse and I ordered the BMW part to replace the defective relay as noted above. It was located exactly where you said it was but....... When you open the flap to access the fuses box area at the back of the glove box you first need to lift out the raised plate that sits on the glove box tray to the rear of the glove box. This allows said flap to fully lower. I had a little play and found a press/pull up slat on the back side of said plate, located exactly in the middle. This releases the plate and allows the fuse box flap to lower fully providing access. Changing the relays is just a pull out/press in fitting. There are two lugs on the sides of the relay, one lower and one higher, which correspond to the guides in the fuse box itself so you cant put it in the wrong way around. Typical BMW........... Car started straight away and I am hoping that is the matter sorted. A £16.85 fix and a bit of research to boot. This really is a very good forum to be part of.

Afternoon Andrea My bet would be the Slip Spring behind the steering wheel is at fault. A diagnostic would confirm if you have access to BMW 1.4.0 or similar (not expensive to buy and worth its weight) Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the Steering section, the small exploded drawing will give clues to what fits where plus there will be part numbers that ensure you get the correct part for your model if replacing it is required. Also if you double click the part number it should give a list of any alternatives available Good luck with the fix Dave

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum Oo er never really thought about this before Try looking at www.realoem.com in the trim section (I think) it may help or Pictures of an M135 for clues You could also ask BMW Customer Services or a really good Body Shop Sorry that's all I can think of Dave

Hi ,sorry to say have a holiday booked for those dates so have to cancel that one. Enjoy

Thanks Dave, I'm not counting down the days just yet! 🙃

Wishing everyone all the Best for 2024 I hope it is Peaceful and Successful and brings everyone some Sunshine into their lives If your out tonight take care and enjoy Dave

Wishing Everyone a Peaceful and Restful Christmas and a Brilliant 2024 Dave

Not unusual to have one fail I brought a set of 4 from Amazon at the last Tyre change as two of mine were acting up worked straight out of the box no issues. Dealer wanted a body part to fix them 4 from Amazon £20 or so and as the tyres were being changed anyway an easy fix.

Hi Rod I replaced the headunit with an Android unit £300 from Ebay. A 1 hr Plug and Play exercise better Sat nav, Bluetooth and several othe apps plus Android Auto all built in Easier to upgrade plus it retains all the BMW functions in the OEM unit all controlled from the i-Drive controller Have not discovered any downside yet (2 years in) Dave

Morning Peggy Welcome to the Forum 🤣🤣🤣 BMW Dealers have a twisted sense of humour don't they 🤣 Then they will tell you you should have a pair Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list (same as the Dealers use) put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will call up your model search the Light section for the part number for the Headlamp. Once you have it carry out an internet search you should find a replacement for about £200 upwards depending on source, any sensible home mechanic will be capable of changing them over Dave

hi Demetrios Welcome to the Forum Sounds like you need a Diagnostic scan and a full service Dave

Morning Stu If this is for your Angel Eyes on the S53 I took a power feed from the where the ECU lives take off the lid and where the loom connects 3rd wire from the left is Red/white trace, earth I used the Headlamp earth so only running a single wire for power. This power feed is ACC switched but remains live for 20 secs after key out. You can test by sticking a pin into the wire and using a tester Dave

Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box. That will bring up your model then search the Trim Section Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum I guess your price is from your BMW Dealer ? Not a problem I have ever had to deal with but I did read some time ago about a company "Toponline.com" worth a Google search. Apparently they make roof seals and repair kits. If I recall they are an American based outfit but they seem to have a good reputation You could also look at specialist dismantlers like Quarry Motors Good Luck Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum We love enthusiastic engineers and as the years catch up ( the big 80 is close) you just need to add a couple of new tools to the kit, a couple of younger bendier sons and a really helpful 13 year old Granddaughter who's hands fit where mine no longer seem to 🤣🤣 Nice collection of BMW's ENJOY Dave

Hi Jitendra The best rated front/rear dash cam currently is Thinkware about £200 and recommended by Camera website Viofo A119 V3 - RECOMMENDED. Buy now from Amazon (£99.59) There are always offerings by Nextbase who were one of the originals in the market The price from your Independent seems really fair remember BMW do not make these they have them made badged and boxed so when you add the Dealers mark up and around £200 p/hour labour rate it isn't difficult to get to their price Me I would DIY if that is beyond your skill set use the Independent Dave

Morning Alexandra C-tec make excellent trickle/conditioning chargers I use mine once a month on my moth balled E53 4.6is and my wife's Subaru which see's low use It is very easy to lift the bonnet and un clip the charger Dave

Few weeks ago I set off in my z3 , guage was on at least three quarters full. About 30 miles later it was going towards the red , hadn't brought wallet with me so slowly headed home. I could see the guage dropping ! I was in sport mode , driving urban and A roads , switched to normal mode to get home. No fuel leaks , reset mpg monitor and driving carefully was getting 24mpg semi urban. The way it drinks fuel it seems like a 4.2 Jag! Is this normal, it's done 35k miles and emissions are perfect . Or is it because I'm used to a 30d X5 for normal use that sips fuel by comparison.

Yeh, that's not too dissimilar to mine when driven around town and put under hard acceleration. Motorway is definitely better and can achieve high 30's at a slightly slower pace than everyone else Also, if you have the autobox version then this would traditionally return lower MPG than a manual (seems to be the other way now with modern autoboxes)

All in this condition , look better than the photos

High Stev Welcome to the Forum No one can diagnose a problem without investigating it, It could be anything from water ingress to a faulty unit I am afraid the only way is check and test all connections Dave

Hi Mark I think the fact that one of his customers has decided not to as it isn't Lane Assist and it bothered them tells you it probably would throw a code. Having said that I guess you could turn off Lane Assist or code it out My feeling is anything fitted should work if not it could have an effect on any Sale/Trade In price Just my thoughts Dave

SeanC I apologise for not responding sooner. I missed your post and won't bore you with excuses. I've not followed up on the smoking issue - the transfer box replacement knocked a hole in my budget so I'm holding fire on what might be an expensive turbo fix. I did talk to a non dealership BMW bloke and he mentioned turbo,valve seals, etc,but without taking the car in he couldn't be sure. Again, I'm sorry for leaving you hanging. R

Hi Dave Thanks for the link onto the parts site. Got me baffled. The old part I have is as shown on the diagram on the parts site. Sadly the end I want to see on the diagram is the end I can't see. I'm fresh back from a weeks holiday and the car has stayed pumped up over that time which is a result. Clearly there won't be a lot of air demand through the pipe. I've tried negotiating with the Mrs but after what I did to her tights when an old fan belt snapped she wasn't best receptive. As you suggest I'm going to cobble a small mesh filter and fix it to the pipe. Thanks for your help. cheers Mike

Hi Mark Fingers crossed for a simple fix Pease Pottage is good for me Dave

That is definitely not the key for that car then, I would guess that someone has mixed up 2 sets of keys I would guess your BMW Dealer would charge about £150 (that is a guess) so check with them, at least you have a working key so can use the car while saving your hard earned cash. That is unless the seller says woops and has the other. Good Luck Dave

The remote may just need resetting to the car. It’s easy to do and there are loads of tutorials on the net. Just google key fob ews programming. hopefully it starts the car…. That’s the hard part.

Hi, I fitted a new cap on the crank case breather and I have driven it for 2 days now and have tried to get it to smoke and it seems to have cured the problem! I am wondering if it would be sensible to fit a complete new breather and is there an updated one. The steering rack would appear to be electric as there are no hydraulic pipes, nor is there a power steering pump or top up tank, what I do notice is there is at least 2 universal joints on the steering column which I will lubricate. I will keep you updated. thanks Paneuro.

Not posted on a forum before, but had to contribute and hopefully add some clarity to the regular issue I read about e88 roof motor failure and water ingress. I’ve got a 2008 e88 120i, same issue as most with water logged motor, PDC damage etc, but found no issue with leaking back lights etc suggested by others. Well I found the usual collection of water under the roof in the storage area (you can see the drainage channel if you get the roof half open and the rear lid up) but then went on a hunt on Google to try and find out where the channel exits, but found nothing. After much head-scratching I removed the rear wheel arch liner and bingo, there it was, half-way up, the clogged rubber boot. It seems the channel blocks, water collects in the storage area above and then on acceleration, a tide of water washes into the boat space where the motor sits. I hope this helps someone else as I had no idea where the drain exit was. I also replaced the motor for £40, well happy!!

Some pictures of my Z3. I still have the original wheels and original foot mats. Does anybody know how many z3 Orinoco 2.8 was made ?

👍 Very Nice ENJOY Dave

Morning Markus Sorry that isn't a code it is only the cars display warning. To begin with have the fuses been checked? Check the fuses if they are OK then you need a proper diagnostic session to identify the problem. I have seen 1 failed trailer control unit and 2 failed gears in the folding motors (one on my own X5) All 3 I was able to fix by sourcing replacement a replacement control unit, and stripping and rebuilding the folding motors. Dave

Morning Rick Not sure what equipment they are using but I do know that downloading and then uploading to the car for even some of the more basic programs can take a few hours. So my guess would be they start an upload and then do other stuff, then check on progress if the program required an action obviously everything stops until the action is taken. As a garage they clearly have to schedule the downloads around other work to ensure the best use of time. Good Luck sounds like it's almost done Dave

Morning It seems you have been very lucky You need to check all drain holes they have small rubber flaps that can get blocked with leaves and stuff over time to make sure your engine bay doesn't get flooded again. Change the oil and check carefully for signs of water in the oil and filter also worth changing the fuel filter as well Good Luck Dave

Morning Markus Welcome to the Forum All clean underneath nothing jamming it ? What is the Error Code ? Have you checked it online ? I would check all wiring and connections, fuses and relays, then make sure that the mechanism isn't blocked or jammed then clear the code and see if it works. A diagnostic session will help if your stuck Dave

Been a while, just for an update, I fitted the other 'cylindrical' style of sensor that realoem specified and it's working great now. Not sure whether the other 'wedge' style was just faulty and a coincidence but the cylindrical one worked for me. Thanks again Dave for all the help, really appreciate it.

Thanks Dave, wise words 😉 The car also needed seals and bearings in the rear diff- this had nothing to do with the original fault , and I had the oil changed in the front diff. I don't think she was particularly well cared for. So now its back to the smoking exhaust issue I was banging on about in another thread ! Rod

Morning Neville Get your friend to test the O2 sensors and also the Vanos operation, plus back track over the work you have done in case a connector is not seated If the EML is on there will be a reason Dave

Morning Bruce I will assume the Battery is correct and in good condition. You need to spend some time testing "pulling fuses" then check with a multi meter to isolate systems and find the culprit. If you are not able or prepared to do that then you may find out why some say BMW stands for Breaks My Wallet 😆 If your stuck try and find a good Auto Electrician but remember tracing something like this is time consuming and time at an hourly rate adds up, whoever it is doing the work Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum The fact that codes are self clearing would indicate they are symptoms not the cause. Check the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle Body I have experienced faulty units with both that didn't throw codes. Your restricted performance would make me think first throttle body or throttle pedal position sender as a starting point. When you scan are all control units seen or are some not responding? (Greyed out) Good Luck Dave

Hi Chris If you aren't aware look at www.realoem.com (BMW Parts List) put the last 7 digits of your Vin in to the search box it will call up your model. Then search the brake section if you double click the part number it should show any alternative Part Numbers and Models they were used in An alternative I have used on a 325i that had a handbrake not holding because the teeth on the quadrant had worn was 15mins with the welder and a file to build up and reshape the worn teeth. 3 years later it is still working fine (our Sons friend) Stu is right about Quarry Motors but if they can't help try Googling BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are about half a dozen from memory worth an email or two Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum If the Z4 is a drop top you have the weather for it 😅 Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum What a great choice of car like the 1960's Jaguar advert they truly have "Grace, Pace and Space". ENJOY Dave

B) :D I found this site trough FB. I am glad that I found it. I will give it to a few of my friends. :D