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Morning Phil First thought "is it a genuine wide body or an aftermarket kit that's been fitted" I would check one of the Vin Decoder websites using the Vin number to see what the original build sheet tells you. As it may be a rare customer special order One of our Z car owners may have more thoughts Dave

You have a "list of jobs" too 🤣 I tried confusing her by starting at the bottom I thought if she saw ticks near the bottom 😅 Top tip it didn't work 🤣

Hi all, just an update to my previous post. Finally resolved my problem, with no help from BMW…… Had to replace the generator/starter/alternator unit to sort the problem, having 1st replaced the 48v battery to eliminate that from being the problem, which it wasn’t. So just over 3 years old, less than 70k on the clock and the MHEV system started breaking down. As time went on the issue got worse and resulted in numerous unexpected ‘shut downs’ whilst driving and on one occasion a complete electrical failure due to a flat 12v battery which wasn’t being charged. Lesson from that episode was that I constantly charged the battery when not in use to avoid a si,liar situation…. Hearing more and more people with the same problem and BMW parts confirming they are getting numerous enquiries every week for the component, so clearly BMW have a longevity issue with the system. Going to be a lot of unhappy customers. BMW of course denied there was an issue , weren’t willing to resolve the problem and instead said ‘take it to a main dealer have them identify the problem and if clearly a BMW design or manufacturing problem, they might consider a contribution to the cost’. I could see running up a huge bill at main dealer rates and then getting a minor contribution from BMW if I was lucky so opted to get it fixed by my local independent who was excellent with it. Fortunately, the vehicle was fixed and drove like a dream again, I forgot how good it was! But as the title says MHEV owners beware!1

Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.

Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave

Hi Greydog, Thanks for your time checking on the i-Carsoft unit! I will be looking to obtain a copy of the ISTA then! Best, JC

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance at all for a change of tyres then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

I have one! 👍🏻… gearbox is a 5 speed manual… quick on the acceleration but top end is a bit rev hungry. enjoy it!!!

Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply and the welcome. Car has only done 33k miles with full service history - never any issues. The tuner in question will be DMS automotive, I believe they are established and have done various things with Carwow and Top Gear. Slightly on the higher end price wise but believe it would be stupid to cheap out on something like this. I also don't plan on being a boy racer, I just want the extra power for the odd over take and to prevent the delays from the automatic gearbox. Thanks again for the help! Seb

Morning James Google the Register of BMW Dismantlers (Quarry Motors have always been useful). For my E53 4.6is I used a local Carpet Fitter he made up a full set for me all edges trimmed and including non slip velcro patches. He used the OEM mats as patterns and off cuts from a Dark Grey High Quality Wilton carpet he had fitted, cost was less than half OEM gave the car a new smell for ages. Dave

Hi Dave, Many thanks for your reply, yes i would always DIY this … I am fully aware of realoem and have indeed been researching a replacement front diff. anything i’m looking at will be factoring in new oil seals to be fitted also, along with the correct spec diff oil.. will keep this post informed of the outcome.. Dave 👍

Update on this. It was a terminal in the plug. Terminal was not making a good connection with one of the pins on the o2 sensor plug. Extremely annoying but fixed

It shifts!!! 😂😂😂

Ha...I just sold my Porsche (2001 Boxster S) and now have a 420D convertible (with remap). The Boxster was a beautiful car and very energetic but my body is getting old and decrepit and falling out onto the pavement to get out was a pathetic display ! Anyhow, we now have a cockapoo and she has her own back seat now !! Wish I had bought a 435D in hindsight but lets see what a year or so in this girl will decide !!! PS Good luck with your new Porsche !!!

Hi, thanks for your input, but I've finally found a lens in Australia. It's exactly the right one, so good result. Phil

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Sadly we do live in times where extra protection is needed The good old Stop Lock is an excellent visual deterent. Whether the investment in a ghost immobiliser as well is worth the money no one can say untill it is needed. Personally the Stop Lock would be my choice (I use one when we are away from home) Dave

Morning Stu Ouch!! Fuel pressure check would be my starting place. From memory (old and dodgy) should be around 50psi any thing lower will give the symptoms your getting If I remember Pelican Parts did some great write ups on Fuel delivery and pressure plus stuff on injector testing worth a look at their site I have been told it only hurts when you laugh 🤣 Get well soon Matey Dave

Morning Stu The fact you have a wiper issue would point me away from the Cluster initially My thoughts are Footwell Module it's in the left hand footwell (well it would be 😅) Run a scan it should show up any issues. The Footwell control module on the 4.6 caused all sorts of odd stuff radio that would randomly turn on/off odd light issues seat controls. BMW say you can't swap them it has to be new and set up by them (wrong of course) I changed mine for an upgraded unit second hand it took longer to remove the old unit and swap it than it did to re-program it cured everything and probably stuff I hadn't found 😅 Dave P.S I wont let the E70 on Whats App or Face Book just in case 🤣

🤣 They may have their own Whats App Group 🤣🤣 scary who knows with AI Guess that means we are in trouble Dave

is the new battery coded to the car? Does the car try to start or does it click once? If it clicks once, check the starter motor.

Thanks for all the help Dave. I have finally sorted it! I removed the Telematic Unit and took a closer look. The 4 terminals that connect to the fin were twisted and not aligned correctly. I fiddled around a bit and managed to sort these out. Next I checked the battery. The terminals were not actually touching the contacts when the lid was closed. This was mainly due to the fact that the clip on the lid had broken off and the lid was not closing fully to push the battery onto the contacts. So I bent the contacts out slightly, and stuck a piece of card on top of the battery and closed the lid and taped shut with some masking tape! Replaced the unit, connected the three cable connectors, and closed the tailgate. Waited a while and switched on the ignition and all the codes had cleared on there own!! No need to clear any faults. After checking all faults, nothing found!! After thinking that it could cost me a new Unit and Fin costing megga bucks, it cost nothing more than a new battery (£25) and a bit of elbow grease. Boy am I pleased!! I

Hi all, I hope you are all well! I thought I’d let others know about my positive experience I had with Precision drive near Southend airport. I was recommended by a friend, who had his E90 updated a while ago. I had messaged Chris at precision drive about getting my F36 updated & addition of CarPlay. He replied with the cost & answered any queries I had. Dropped off car & left it with him. I got a call after 1.5hrs to say the whole car had been updated but there was an issue whilst installing CarPlay (he doesn’t yet have dedicated broadband at his workshop, phone tethering wasn’t sufficient) He has kindly offered to come to my house & apply the CarPlay at a later date. It turns out that my cars never had any software updates applied since new! Instantly I noticed the shifts were smoother & engine was quieter. Should anyone else require their cars updating give Chris a message/call (search Precision Drive) I paid £120 for whole vehicle update, £60 to be paid at a later date for CarPlay activation.

Morning Paul Sorry Paul it's been a crazy end to the shooting season From my notes nothing I am afraid but from a BMW contact apparently the sequence is "Ignition on all lights show as part of the self check, Crank and start and they should go out apart from seat belt if it isnt plugged in" Dave

Hi Daniel The only electrical connection is the under handle LED on the outside door handle. The door handle has a Bowden cable that connects it to the actuator, the actuator has electrical connections to communicate with the cars control system the actuator is bolted inside the door, the inside door handle is also connected to the actuator by a second Bowden cable To work on it you will have to take off the inner door card then carefully peel away the water membrane. Once the actuator is exposed you can get your hand behind it and unhook the Bowden cable then remove the outer handle and unhook the other end of the cable. Fitting the new cable is obviously the reverse Dave

Thanks Paul I will trawl my notes and contacts to see if I can get any information for you Dave

Morning Bruce Hope the Test Drive goes well and Welcome Back Dave

Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum I have read several times about this problem though not seen/suffered one myself From what I read the only solution is change the unit two choices, first BMW I have read £1k+ quotes and long wait times for parts. Second choice a used replacement first use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model get the Part Number for your car, double click the part number and it should show a list of any alternatives if they are available. Then Google to find the part and check prices Apparently it isn't a major issue to swap a DIY job then get your Mech friend to clear and reset codes Good luck Dave

Many thanks once again Greydog Dave . I haven't yet contacted my auto electrician friend but when I do I'm sure he will find your information useful and interesting. He will take a while to visit me because of ill health but when he does I will contact you. Many thanks and a happy new year.

Happy new year sir! thank you for your wisdom and knowledge throughout the year. enjoy a beer or two

Took it out yesterday and then shopping last night 4x20 mile runs and the car didn’t miss a beat. Still a few little nigly bits to sort, but hopefully the limp mode issue is solved! got a long run next week when I go on holiday so we shall see if I end up coming home via the RAC or not… now to fill it with more petrol!

Another year coming to a close 😁 Wishing everyonea Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Hoping nothing wears out or drops off and the same goes for your cars Dave

Morning Darren Living in the land of 20mph speed limits certainly isnt going to help, to get the Soot burned off even though you have triggered it with Carly will need a bit of Help. Engine revs need to be at around 3000rpm Engine needs all Glow Plugs working as they are used to achieve high combustion temperatures, if 1 is not working the Regen Cycle may not work. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Stu The fact that ignition on no engine everything is working but engine start causes the problem would to me suggest a chaffed wire in the starter circuit that is sending power to the sensors/sounder. Thinking out loud here, I would start with the sounder circuit. If the sounder is disabled do you get the visible warnings from the sensors? Dave

Morning Symptoms could point towards the Footwell Control Module or it's Earth point Dave

From Memory you have a Fuse box under the Bonnet, the main one behind the Glove box and one in the boot You should find a fuse layout folded in one of the boxes Fingers crossed it's a simple fix (Fuel Pump Relay) Good Hunting Dave

Hi Dave, the guy said they only use LUK or SACHS so we will see how it goes. Its not going in until Oct 6th so I will use it until then. I will let you know how it turns out. thanks Paneuro.

Here you go Stu don't know if this helps or not You can see the Front sensors working the rear sensor is acting up after I jet washed it Dave P1000915.MOV

Hi Dave. Yes,at last and hopefully it will stay dry. I have just had the car washed and dryed at a local hand wash - car wash and hopefully that will produce a good result for my pension money investment towards keeping the car !! As they say "Watch this space"😁

Morning Stu She has it in for you 🤣 The job is really simple takes longer to uncover the throttle body than actually change it. 4 bolts hold it in place unplug it and don't drop the seal when you take it off. As an aside have you checked the Vac lines that connect to it's mount. If I remember take the covers off take the big elbow that goes to the Maff off 4 M6 bolts (I think) hold the Throttle body to the inlet manifold there is a seal between the manifold and the throttle body dont do my trick and drop it 🤣 Check realoem that may help Enjoy your Saturday Dave

God afternoon David and welcome to the forum. very nice car and a good colour choice! it’s been a while since I modded exhausts but I’m sure power flow or similar can give you what you need

The spigot is the raised ring on the wheel hub that locates the wheel. It should match the big centre hole in the middle of the wheel, If the one in the wheel is smaller it wont fit if it's larger thewheel wont centre correctly and will probaly wobble Good Luck Buddy

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box (one car at a time) then check the wheels section. Check the wheel szes for both cars and the wheel Offset so you know they clear Brake Calipers The only other thing is check the spigot ring measure ment on both wheels Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Gemma Welcome to the Forum First place to look is in the iDrive settings in case someone has set something there Max/Min. I take it all fuses have been checked? If the temp was adjustable but now isnt you may need a Diagnostic scan to determine just what the issue is. There are a couple of Companies who repair these if it is the climate control ECU Testing and Cartronix Google will help you find them talk to them to see if they can help Hope this helps Dave

👍🤣👍 A job well done

Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check

Morning Tim That is why I would test the Relays and sensors also a BMW specific Diagnostic program will record faults that are not currently present, ones that are held in the Control units memory they can still influence things and will need clearing Good Luck Dave

I go with Dodo or Zaino.