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What’s good: Has become the urban 4x4, thanks to huge road presence and BMW badge. Six-cylinder, 3.0-litre, 231bhp petrol or 184bhp diesel and 286bhp, 4.4-litre V8 engines. Better than Range Rover, Discovery or Mercedes ML on the road, very capable off-road. 347bhp 4.6iS in UK late 2001. Three-year unlimited mileage warranty from November 2001. Minor cosmetic and major drivetrain changes, summer 2003. Revised 4.4 V8 has 320bhp and six-speed auto, 3.0d with second-generation common-rail diesel rises to 218bhp yet is capable of 32.8mpg (Combined). New x-Drive system enables power and torque increases to produce usable traction in all situations – new X5 vastly better to drive on and off-road than the original. Four-star NCAP crash safety rating January 2003; five-star rating for latest model June 2003. Diesels have exceptional residual values. BMWs generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct reliability index (www.reliabilityindex.co.uk). Average for breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which? survey. What’s bad: One-star NCAP rating for pedestrian safety. 4.4 V8 expensive and thirsty. High-spec diesels were commanding premiums of up to £5,000 as late as September 2002. Diesel isn’t as economical as you might expect. As with any new BMW, options can hugely inflate the price. Rated one of the most expensive off-roaders to run in 2003 Which? survey. What to watch out for: Reports of blown turbos on 530 diesel saloons may also apply to X5 3.0d. Recalls: 31/1/2001 (cars built 21/9/2000-19/1/2001): possible fault with steering column joint. 16/11/2001 (built 11/11/2000-30/9/2001): fault with radiator fan motor could lead electrics to overload, fan motor to fail and a small electrical fire to result. August 2002: 56,000 X5s recalled worldwide because brake pedal shaft can work free (affects UK imports built up to 2001). 31/7/2002: Bush on brake pedal mounting shaft and pedal itself may come off (affects 1,971 cars). 3/2/2003: Front brake hose could rub on tyre. Clip to be fitted. 24/2/2003: Seatbelt tensioners may not be securely crimped.

here is a link to all bmw owners hand book pdf file free to download http://bmwsections.com

Just for our own research, could you please tell us how you found this forum. If It was by referral from another member, please name and shame :P

Good afternoon. Here will be a short guide for to clean your car to the highest standard. I have been cleaning cars to a high standard for 3 years. I will post links with Halfords as easiest place to buy from This will not include wheels or inside What you will need: 2 Buckets Access to fresh water (hose preferably) 1 wash mitt Microfiber cloths Shampoo Clay bar Back to black Polish Wax (dark car) Wax (light car) Step One. Rinse your car using a hose, on a medium pressure setting, no need to jet wash, this is to remove bird crap, leaves and other 'big' imperfections. Step Two. Fill one bucket with clean water (fresh), fill one bucket with warm water and a cap of shampoo. Add this last, and mix with hand, otherwise will foam up too much. Step three. Wet the mitt in the shampoo bucket, and using a circling motion start to clean the car. When residue is getting minimal, rinse the mitt in fresh water. Shake the mitt around, and rinse it. Then put mitt back into the shampoo bucket. Complete car using this method. Step Four. Rinse off using hose Step Five. Open the clay bar pack, soak in warm water and tear off a small piece about an inch wide and 5mm thick. Use the 'Rapid detailer' it's a spray and will create a mist. spray onto panel and use the clay bar in a small circular motion, if the bar is getting stuck, use more spray. once it runs smooth, move to the next area. Concentrate on a 5cm at a time, try to make this how big the circles are. If you look at the clay bar, it will be brown/black, flip around and continuously check. Clay bars will remove ground in dirt and tar splatters If you drop it, best to get a new piece. Step Six. Wash car. Yep. Using the two bucket set up, wash again, this will remove all residue left by the clay bar. Step Seven. Rinse using hose Step Eight. Dry using 3 microfibers Try to dab rather then drag Step Nine. Polish. Apply a small amount into a folded microfiber cloth, fold onto itself to create a bigger surface area. Pressing quite hard make small circles. Do this all the way round the car. When you get back to where you started it will have gone quite flakey/ crusty. Using a new microfiber cloth small circles to remove polish. Step Ten Waxing time. Using the application pad, make swirls, you do not need to press hard, just make sure the car is covered. It will haze quite quickly which is fine. You do not need to use too much in one area, just so its covered will be fine. Again go round the car until you come back to where you started. Then using the last microfiber cloth, remove as you did the polish, in small circles. Step Eleven Take pictures This is a W reg (2000) and the results are outstanding. Tip: Don't skimp on products. If you want your car to look the bomb, you need to spend money where it matters. I highly recommend buying the products as suggested

INTRODUTION... It may be the cheapest BMW you can buy, but the smallest of the line still packs fine design and handling poiseIt may be small – but it’s every inch a BMW. That said, the 1-series jostles for your buying cash against some serious opposition: Audi’s A3, the Mercedes-Benz CLC/C-class sports coupe and upmarket version of the Volkswagen Golf. It carries a couple of aces with it, though, writes Ray Castle of motors.co.uk. First for some buyers theBMW badge is to hook them. Second, it’s a rear-wheel drive car in a chunk of the market where most are front-drivers. This gives it a sweetness and balance in its drive that no rival can quite match. 1-series comes as five-door hatches, two-door coupes or as a soft-top. Here we’re focusing on the five-door because it’s by far the commonest. HOW MUCH SHOULD I BE PAYING ... Though the first 1-series are now six years old they lose value slower than most, so you’ll need £7500 even for a 2004, 54-reg 116i with 60,000 miles, though you might also find a 118 diesel showing higher miles for that money. Push the budget to £10,000 and you’ll get a 118 turbodiesel Sport from 2006, 56-registered and with 75k miles. Add to your cash pile so you’ve £12,000 and a 116 ES from 2007, 57-registered, that has just 25,000 miles recorded is yours. If you’ve £15,000 to spend, you can buy a 188 SE that’s covered just 10,000 miles and is from 2008 on an 08-reg. WHATS THE BEST MODEL... BMW isn’t over-generous in equipping its cars, so entry models have plastic wheel covers and do without air conditioning, although all have six airbags, anti-lock brakes, remote locking, electric windows and a CD player. Move up to the ES model and you’ll get all that plus air conditioning and alloy wheels, while the jump to an SE model rewards with digital air conditioning, an arm rest and a wheel with multi-function controls. Finally, the Sport brings bigger alloy wheels, lowered suspension and a sporty-trimmed cabin, plus all you’ll get on the SE. Engines run from the 115bhp 116i, which has enough power but isn’t exactly sparkling, to the 130i M Sport, which packs a 3.0-litre, 261bhp engine that delivers true performance car speed. For most buyers, though, the 118i or 120i petrol models are the ones to have, and they produce 135bhp and 150bhp respectively, although the 118 diesel with 120bhp is a good all-rounder, too, while the 163bhp 120 diesel is quick but economical. Diesels are pricier than petrols, so you’ll have to settle for a car a year older on a set budget. We’d go for a 118 diesel SE, or a 118 or 120 SE petrol. Most 1-series have manual gearboxes but those with automatic transmission, while scarce, aren’t usually dearer. From 2006, BMW introduced Efficient Dynamics, which improved fuel economy and lowered emissions across its engine range. A year later, most 1-series gained Stop-Start, which stills the engine to save fuel whenever you’re halted in traffic and you pop the gears to neutral. To re-start, you just dip the clutch and the engine fires. As with its other models, BMW offers a huge array of extras. Look out for well-specified cars but don’t pay extra for them. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY ONE ... BMW’s Approved Used scheme is among the oldest of its type and also ranks as one of the best. Cars get a bumper-to-bumper pre-sales check and any problems found are put right. They’re also sold with at least a year’s warranty cover and breakdown assistance, too. All BMW dealers offer the scheme and most of the cars are relatively new and low-mileage. Prices are often (but not always) on the high side. You also find 1-series at car supermarkets, often at keen prices. For older, cheaper cars, independent dealers would be the first place we’d look, particularly if they specialise in the marque. Finally, don’t rule out the private ads because you might find a bargain nestling among the classifieds. WHAT SHOULD I LOOK OUT FOR ... Relax. All the signs are that the 1-series is exceptionally built and soaks up the miles with little need for more than routine servicing. You should check, though that the gearbox feels slick and precise on high-milers – if it feels sloppy it may need a rebuild soon. On the other hand, if yours has done 10,000 miles of less and the manual shifty feels tight – don’t worry. It’ll just need to cover more miles to loosen it. If the car has Stop-Start, drive it long enough to see that it works correctly – there have been a few cases of the system malfunctioning. BMW issued a recall on cars made between September 2004 and May 2005 to fix a fault with the rear suspension, so if yours is that old, check that the work’s been done. The car’s computer tells you when a service is due so check that one’s not due soon and, if there’s a service history, verify that it’s genuine by calling the dealer who worked on the car last. Insurance runs from group 10 for the 116i to group 17 for the 130i. Servicing is reasonable for a prestige make, while BMW 4-Plus scheme offers sizeable main-dealer discounts for work needed by older cars.

Girlfriend and myself will be there

Hi Hamid Welcome to the Forum First check the engine bay side there is a distribution valve and Auxiliary water pump make sure it's working. Then inside the car if all fans and controls are working check the Final Stage Resistor (used to be a common fail on E53 X5's) Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model, then check the Heater section you should find the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) in the blower motor. You will now have all the part numbers you need to find a replacement at a sensible price. The FSR on X5 E53 models was a fiddle to change but not beyond anyone with a bit of sense Dave

After many months of messing with door i decided to try, again, the key in the door after about 10 tries THE DOOR OPENED!!! So I can finally get door panel off to access and replace the actuator. Thank you to everyone that responded and tried to help me. And to Greydog...I found the lever you were talking about.

Morning Phil First thought "is it a genuine wide body or an aftermarket kit that's been fitted" I would check one of the Vin Decoder websites using the Vin number to see what the original build sheet tells you. As it may be a rare customer special order One of our Z car owners may have more thoughts Dave

You have a "list of jobs" too 🤣 I tried confusing her by starting at the bottom I thought if she saw ticks near the bottom 😅 Top tip it didn't work 🤣

Hi all, just an update to my previous post. Finally resolved my problem, with no help from BMW…… Had to replace the generator/starter/alternator unit to sort the problem, having 1st replaced the 48v battery to eliminate that from being the problem, which it wasn’t. So just over 3 years old, less than 70k on the clock and the MHEV system started breaking down. As time went on the issue got worse and resulted in numerous unexpected ‘shut downs’ whilst driving and on one occasion a complete electrical failure due to a flat 12v battery which wasn’t being charged. Lesson from that episode was that I constantly charged the battery when not in use to avoid a si,liar situation…. Hearing more and more people with the same problem and BMW parts confirming they are getting numerous enquiries every week for the component, so clearly BMW have a longevity issue with the system. Going to be a lot of unhappy customers. BMW of course denied there was an issue , weren’t willing to resolve the problem and instead said ‘take it to a main dealer have them identify the problem and if clearly a BMW design or manufacturing problem, they might consider a contribution to the cost’. I could see running up a huge bill at main dealer rates and then getting a minor contribution from BMW if I was lucky so opted to get it fixed by my local independent who was excellent with it. Fortunately, the vehicle was fixed and drove like a dream again, I forgot how good it was! But as the title says MHEV owners beware!1

Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.

Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

As title you may find you get a better response if you post in the correct section . If your post relates to BMW in general then it goes in here . If your post relates to a specific model or series they post it in that section. And if it has no relation to BMW then post in the relevant section .. If your not sure where to post then myself and the other mods are here to help please don't hesitate to pm us . Thanks for taking the time to read this .....

Holy Moly Just get well soon Stu Dave

Morning Joey Just looked back at my notes when we did it, First there is a cover strip that runs across the top of the front bumper/nose above the grills, this needs lifting and prising out. Then the rubber closing strip that covers the joint with the inner/outer wing needs removing. Now the two trim strips either side can have the plastic rivets lifted 6 aside from memory then the trims can be removed. In the wheel arch there are torx bolts 3 each side holding the liner, peel back the liner. There are 2 bolts holding the bumper to the bumper iron, now undo the screws above the grills and the bumper lifts forward. Careful of electrical and washer connections. Support the bumper (we put a blanket over it to protect the paint). Now there are just 2 really fiddly to get at torx bolts that hold each headlamp in place move the headlamp forward and change the bulb !! SO SIMPLE !! Having done it once I guess I could probably do it in 30 to 45 mins now, it was the head scratching working out how it went together/came apart that took the time. My local Dealer's hourly rate is close to £200 per hour (someone has to pay for the free coffee) so a Diagnostic session £130 is about par for the course.

My dad had a 1600E MK2 Cortina. Always kept it so clean. He died when I was 14 and at the time we lived in Wales. My mum wanted to come back to her family so we moved. We left that car in the garage. I pleaded with mum to try and sell it but she just said it wasn't worth much!.....Funny thing is I can still remember the reg no. KBL 820D

Come on Richard with 300+ hp and a strut brace you are to busy holding on to worry about the heater 🤣🤣

Morning Me Again Simple answer is yes, all the warnings are just a check box. From memory open either LCM or ZKE and at the left side open (again mamory) either coding or functions you should see a page of check box options just un-check the suspension warning Dave

That could make it hard to find in the snow !!!😁

I once had wheel-bolts on a Mercedes that the dealership had overtightened. To get them undone, my tame mechanic had to use a 5-foot extension bar - and even then had to work really hard at it! He succeeded in the end, but the bolts had been so abused that two of them sheared off whilst being undone, and several others had visible signs of having been stretched. Even if there is no visible damage to the bolts, you should consider replacing them - you never know whether bolts that have been overtightened like that have been significantly weakened, and the cost of a few bolts is going to be a lot cheaper than losing a wheel at speed! Colin

Sounds great to me but then my 4.6 V8 averages 18 mpg but if I try I can easily get it into single figures 😈😈

Just the 5 at the moment though we do get "lodgers" and "day care" with the kids dogs so sometimes 7+ This is my current happy band

Winters are the way to go I started using them years back when I did a lot of travelling and business in Northern Europe, they are law there from October on. Try an AMG E class or CLS with out !!! I even have a set of Wintrac Extreme for the X5, as Mick says they don't fix everything but at least you can still get about.

I'd love to be part of this club but it's rare I visit because I find it incredibly frustrating sifting through topics with other BMW Models I have little interest in. Perhaps it would be a good Idea under "3 series Club" to have sub categories E30, E36, E46 etc so posts are easier find and look through, the same should be done for the for sale and wanted pages, Just a thought.

polish and wax are two totally different things. Car polish is a liquid applied to painted surfaces to eliminate scratches and dirt. It does this by containing abrasive elements that scrub the paint surface, actually removing a thin layer of the car's paint wax is applied to add a protective layer on top of a car's paint and clear coat. This layer of wax adds shine to the car's appearance and protects the paint from the elements, causing water to bead up and slide off. best thing is to wash the car, clay bar it then polish and wax it. hope this helps

In general terms, the Mini is remarkably reliable and potential faults are easy to spot. The vast majority of cars (some 98 per cent) were sold with the ‘TLC’ package, which covers all servicing charges for the first five years or 50,000 miles, and can be transferred to the next owner. Not only was this a great deal for new owners, it’s also good news for the secondhand market as it means that servicing has rarely been skimped or bodged. However, that doesn’t mean you can drop your guard. There were a few recalls over the years and it’s important to ensure that any potential purchase has had the full complement of remedies. The most high-profile recall was for a ‘static-discharge fire risk’ when refuelling (cars built before August 2001), but others include a front suspension ball-joint and lower-arm upgrade (cars up to August 2001 again), possible tyre-wall cuts (cars built in January and February 2002), and one for a handbrake fault on all pre-December 2002 Minis. Engines Overall, all the Mini engines are strong, but you should listen carefully for unusual noises. If a Cooper or Cooper S has a slight rattle at the top end, it could either mean the hydraulic tappets are on their way out or that the timing chain needs tensioning. Slowly bring the revs up and listen out for a bottom-end rattle. If you hear one it’s likely that the engine will have run out of oil at some stage. A quick look for signs of a leak from either the oil filter housing or the sump will confirm this. Either way, with such a wide choice of cars available, you should walk away if the engine sounds anything other than perfect. Exhaust The exhaust is stainless steel and should last forever, so it just needs to be examined for signs of damage from grounding. Gearbox If you are looking at a Cooper, listen out for gearbox whine from the transmission. The noise is likely to be evident in all gears and, if you experience this, the likely cause is a lack of oil – if you examine the driveshaft oil seals you will probably find that they have been leaking. The same could happen on a Cooper S, but with this car it’s also worth turning to full lock to check for more unwanted noises, which this time may indicate that the diff bearings are worn. The gearshift is operated by cables and the action should still be smooth in all forward gears; reverse is generally more difficult to engage, though, because of its lack of a synchromesh. Suspension/steering The dampers last well on all models, even if the car has seen regular trackday use. A clonking noise from the rear is a good indication that the top mounting bushes are shot. It can happen at the front too, although this is less common, but a similar noise at the front could also be caused by the front anti-roll bar links. Neither issue is complicated or expensive to fix, though. When parked, turn the steering from lock to lock and listen out for a banging noise coming from the steering column (ignore the buzz from the electric power steering – this is normal). This indicates a problem with the universal joint and there is a fix available under warranty. Out of warranty, though, the labour-intensive nature of the job means it can be quite expensive to have sorted, so many owners choose to live with it as it isn’t dangerous and won’t get worse. Wheels/tyres Examine the wheels for signs of kerbing and peeling lacquer. They can be repaired economically, but it does show evidence of a lack of care by the previous owner. Kerbing can also upset the wheel alignment, which is critical to a Mini’s handling and will also result in premature and uneven tyre wear. A BMW alignment check will cost around £130. Run-flat tyres (as fitted to 16in wheels and above) should be examined closely for wear and damage as they are expensive to replace. Ensure there is a tyre repair kit and a locking-wheel-nut key in the boot. Brakes Have a look through the wheels at the brakes to check condition. They can rust quickly if left unused outside for long periods. If this is evident it’s likely that they will squeal horribly on the test drive, but regular heavy braking to scrub off the rust should solve the problem. Pads and discs tend to wear at the same rate, and it’s common for the rears to wear out at around the same time as the fronts, usually at around 20,000 to 25,000 miles. As it will cost around £500 to get the whole lot replaced, it pays to either ensure it’s been done recently or negotiate a discount. Bodywork Most areas on the bodywork are easy to check and problems are usually obvious. However, you should still look closely for signs of accident damage. Grab hold of the front bumper and give it a firm shake to ensure it is still securely attached, as they are quite low and consequently easily damaged by speed bumps and kerbs. The blunt nose is very susceptible to stone chips, as is the windscreen, which should be examined for chips and cracks. Windscreen-wiper rubbers wear and break regularly, but are cheap and simple to replace. Interior/electrics Feel the carpets in the front footwells for dampness, particularly if you are looking at an early car (2001-2002), as they were susceptible to water leaks from the A-pillar. Many of these cars were repaired under warranty, but if it hasn’t been done this water can cause a range of electrical faults and cost as much as £1000 to fix. The ECU (or DME, as BMW likes to call it) costs £247 to replace. One of the body control modules (known technically as the BC1 unit) is sited in the footwell and it can be destroyed if water ingress is bad. There were a number of modifications made that resolved this issue, but it’s still important to check all electrical systems, including the central locking and the lights. For complete peace of mind, call a main dealer, quote the VIN number and ask what warranty and servicing work has been carried out on the car. The dash and all the switchgear are robust, although some of the plastics are easily scratched and the seats can sag, but, just like the bodywork, any problems are very obvious and should be factored-in to the purchase price.

OK Claire, time to put your tongue away, drooling is unladylike like...................;-)

haha yeah I have got the car now :) only just finished driving it now and very much enjoying it just want the running in period to end so I do not drive as captain cautious so much haha would upload some photos but so far not had a chance :)

Hi I have just joined, I'm in Cambridge/Haverhill with my 650i, look forward to hearing about any planned meets! Andy

Welcome to the site. And so I'm not left out

A Lexus IS?????????? Not in the same league as a 3 Series, a Lexus with a manual gearbox is a dog and the diesel engine sound like a cement mixer that's went wrong Stephen

Could not agree more Claire & nice one Tom :)

Yeh it's been looked after fairplay even had the blind for the back, only got 40k on it....The roads by me are lovely :) if the weather is dry the roof is down I'm a right poser. ..pmsl

Either shy or so busy earning the money to keep our cars on the road we dont have the time to spend on the boards. :D

Hi Amy Count me in. Dont think wife wants to come so just me at the moment. Mike

Hi there, I love BMWs, first was E30 320, then E46 328, E46 330, E34 M5, E30 325 convertible, E92 335, now currently in E46 M3 CSL and loving it.

bmw festival at gaydon is probably the next midlands meet i think here's a link http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/event/bmw-festival-2/#.UZcwcrWkrJg

No6 does not state wives. So I want to swap my wife

I have recently purchased my dream car a E60 M5, I have previously owned 323i sport and E39 523i , I look forward to meets.

Hotrods diner is a new American style car themed diner that will be ideal for BMW meets its in gravesend area as soon as its opened I will organise a meet but for now add them on Facebook to follow progress

Currently owned: Cosmos Black E38 728i Diamond Black E34 540i Orient Blue E34 525i Touring Cardinal Red '83 Capri 2.8i (the first car I ever bought back in 1992!)

For X5 and X6 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=17+42+7+795+757

4 wheel geometry is where they get all 4 wheels pointing in the direction they should be,ie nice and straight,not sticking out/in or too much +/_ camber as to not cause any excessive wear on parts connected and most importantly tyres !! I used to go through a set of rear tyres every 6 months max until i got it done. Some of the best money Ive ever spent :) Ive had my current tyres on over a year now with no wearing issues at all :) and I dont hang about and also have the tendancy to do a little sideways action ;)

i have moved this topic, please introduce yourself in the new members area, thanks

07891 00 36 36 Speak to a guy named Paul,tell him I passed you onto him,He breaks e36's all day every day. I get all my bits from him :)Top bloke :) p.s. hes based in Walkern,near Hitchin but he is also on ebay.Think his tag is e36-spares

Inspect the rear arches mate - common problem on that shape is rusty rear archs, aswell as the bootlid, bottom of the doors and front wings at the bottom. Ensure that all the electric windows work perfectly with no struggling what so ever. Give it a decent test drive and look out for any major noises from the soft top. As Gav said inspect the bushes, suspension components and brake lines. Doorcards are nice and secure (both of them) glovebox door isn't broken, the LCD display on the OBC isn't buggered, the climate control is fully functioning. Try the key on the doors and bootlid to ensure they haven't been replaced due to any accident damage. Just give it a good old once over mate :) Hope that helps :D

Ill start 320d 2003 115k Control arm bushings, Front links, Strut mounts, Rear shock mounts, and hand brake not holding.