Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/23/2011 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    What’s good: Has become the urban 4x4, thanks to huge road presence and BMW badge. Six-cylinder, 3.0-litre, 231bhp petrol or 184bhp diesel and 286bhp, 4.4-litre V8 engines. Better than Range Rover, Discovery or Mercedes ML on the road, very capable off-road. 347bhp 4.6iS in UK late 2001. Three-year unlimited mileage warranty from November 2001. Minor cosmetic and major drivetrain changes, summer 2003. Revised 4.4 V8 has 320bhp and six-speed auto, 3.0d with second-generation common-rail diesel rises to 218bhp yet is capable of 32.8mpg (Combined). New x-Drive system enables power and torque increases to produce usable traction in all situations – new X5 vastly better to drive on and off-road than the original. Four-star NCAP crash safety rating January 2003; five-star rating for latest model June 2003. Diesels have exceptional residual values. BMWs generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct reliability index (www.reliabilityindex.co.uk). Average for breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which? survey. What’s bad: One-star NCAP rating for pedestrian safety. 4.4 V8 expensive and thirsty. High-spec diesels were commanding premiums of up to £5,000 as late as September 2002. Diesel isn’t as economical as you might expect. As with any new BMW, options can hugely inflate the price. Rated one of the most expensive off-roaders to run in 2003 Which? survey. What to watch out for: Reports of blown turbos on 530 diesel saloons may also apply to X5 3.0d. Recalls: 31/1/2001 (cars built 21/9/2000-19/1/2001): possible fault with steering column joint. 16/11/2001 (built 11/11/2000-30/9/2001): fault with radiator fan motor could lead electrics to overload, fan motor to fail and a small electrical fire to result. August 2002: 56,000 X5s recalled worldwide because brake pedal shaft can work free (affects UK imports built up to 2001). 31/7/2002: Bush on brake pedal mounting shaft and pedal itself may come off (affects 1,971 cars). 3/2/2003: Front brake hose could rub on tyre. Clip to be fitted. 24/2/2003: Seatbelt tensioners may not be securely crimped.
  2. 5 points
    here is a link to all bmw owners hand book pdf file free to download http://bmwsections.com
  3. 4 points
    Just for our own research, could you please tell us how you found this forum. If It was by referral from another member, please name and shame :P
  4. 4 points
    INTRODUTION... It may be the cheapest BMW you can buy, but the smallest of the line still packs fine design and handling poiseIt may be small – but it’s every inch a BMW. That said, the 1-series jostles for your buying cash against some serious opposition: Audi’s A3, the Mercedes-Benz CLC/C-class sports coupe and upmarket version of the Volkswagen Golf. It carries a couple of aces with it, though, writes Ray Castle of motors.co.uk. First for some buyers theBMW badge is to hook them. Second, it’s a rear-wheel drive car in a chunk of the market where most are front-drivers. This gives it a sweetness and balance in its drive that no rival can quite match. 1-series comes as five-door hatches, two-door coupes or as a soft-top. Here we’re focusing on the five-door because it’s by far the commonest. HOW MUCH SHOULD I BE PAYING ... Though the first 1-series are now six years old they lose value slower than most, so you’ll need £7500 even for a 2004, 54-reg 116i with 60,000 miles, though you might also find a 118 diesel showing higher miles for that money. Push the budget to £10,000 and you’ll get a 118 turbodiesel Sport from 2006, 56-registered and with 75k miles. Add to your cash pile so you’ve £12,000 and a 116 ES from 2007, 57-registered, that has just 25,000 miles recorded is yours. If you’ve £15,000 to spend, you can buy a 188 SE that’s covered just 10,000 miles and is from 2008 on an 08-reg. WHATS THE BEST MODEL... BMW isn’t over-generous in equipping its cars, so entry models have plastic wheel covers and do without air conditioning, although all have six airbags, anti-lock brakes, remote locking, electric windows and a CD player. Move up to the ES model and you’ll get all that plus air conditioning and alloy wheels, while the jump to an SE model rewards with digital air conditioning, an arm rest and a wheel with multi-function controls. Finally, the Sport brings bigger alloy wheels, lowered suspension and a sporty-trimmed cabin, plus all you’ll get on the SE. Engines run from the 115bhp 116i, which has enough power but isn’t exactly sparkling, to the 130i M Sport, which packs a 3.0-litre, 261bhp engine that delivers true performance car speed. For most buyers, though, the 118i or 120i petrol models are the ones to have, and they produce 135bhp and 150bhp respectively, although the 118 diesel with 120bhp is a good all-rounder, too, while the 163bhp 120 diesel is quick but economical. Diesels are pricier than petrols, so you’ll have to settle for a car a year older on a set budget. We’d go for a 118 diesel SE, or a 118 or 120 SE petrol. Most 1-series have manual gearboxes but those with automatic transmission, while scarce, aren’t usually dearer. From 2006, BMW introduced Efficient Dynamics, which improved fuel economy and lowered emissions across its engine range. A year later, most 1-series gained Stop-Start, which stills the engine to save fuel whenever you’re halted in traffic and you pop the gears to neutral. To re-start, you just dip the clutch and the engine fires. As with its other models, BMW offers a huge array of extras. Look out for well-specified cars but don’t pay extra for them. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO BUY ONE ... BMW’s Approved Used scheme is among the oldest of its type and also ranks as one of the best. Cars get a bumper-to-bumper pre-sales check and any problems found are put right. They’re also sold with at least a year’s warranty cover and breakdown assistance, too. All BMW dealers offer the scheme and most of the cars are relatively new and low-mileage. Prices are often (but not always) on the high side. You also find 1-series at car supermarkets, often at keen prices. For older, cheaper cars, independent dealers would be the first place we’d look, particularly if they specialise in the marque. Finally, don’t rule out the private ads because you might find a bargain nestling among the classifieds. WHAT SHOULD I LOOK OUT FOR ... Relax. All the signs are that the 1-series is exceptionally built and soaks up the miles with little need for more than routine servicing. You should check, though that the gearbox feels slick and precise on high-milers – if it feels sloppy it may need a rebuild soon. On the other hand, if yours has done 10,000 miles of less and the manual shifty feels tight – don’t worry. It’ll just need to cover more miles to loosen it. If the car has Stop-Start, drive it long enough to see that it works correctly – there have been a few cases of the system malfunctioning. BMW issued a recall on cars made between September 2004 and May 2005 to fix a fault with the rear suspension, so if yours is that old, check that the work’s been done. The car’s computer tells you when a service is due so check that one’s not due soon and, if there’s a service history, verify that it’s genuine by calling the dealer who worked on the car last. Insurance runs from group 10 for the 116i to group 17 for the 130i. Servicing is reasonable for a prestige make, while BMW 4-Plus scheme offers sizeable main-dealer discounts for work needed by older cars.
  5. 2 points
    A little bit of background on the E36, which covers the '92-'99 3 series models (with some exceptions) . . . According to Bimmer Magazine, BMW E30 (and prior) engineers used complex math equations and heavy field testing to figure out required strength and durability, then they would double or triple the outcome, resulting in a fairly bulletproof car. Not so with the E36, which proved to be somewhat less reliable than the models before or after it, for two main reasons. The E36 is the very first BMW in history to be designed on CAD, and instead of extensive testing, they relied on the program to determine how robust a part or system should be. Secondly, they were engineered with recycling in mind. Which is a bit of an irony, since many owners can make these cars last upwards of 250-300 thousand miles. That isn't to say that the E36 is a shoddy Bimmer- they do more than live up to time honored BMW tradition, as the motors are quite strong, and light years ahead of the E21/E30 powerplants, along with numerous other significant improvements in comfort and performance. Still, many of them were poorly maintained and abused by previous owners, and as they're currently approaching the higher mileage threshold, you can expect to spend a little money restoring one. But by no means should you not consider buying one, because it's an absolute thrill to drive, and tends to be more reliable compared to other cars in its class, despite its shortcomings. Furthermore, it should be mentioned that while the following list may seem frightening, not all E36's will experience these issues, and since they typically are higher mileage cars nowadays, a lot of the problems have already been addressed by recalls and previous repairs. On to the list . . . . Engine Bay: -There is no doubt that the most notorious E36 issue is the water pump. 6 cylinder models up to MY ’97 were equipped with plastic impellers which would break apart and fail prematurely, stopping the coolant flow. Typical replacement interval is 60k, but they’ve been known to fail at as low as 20-30k, and often randomly. Replacement pumps employ a metal impeller. If you’re not sure that it was changed, do it anyway. Here's how. -Clutch fan can shatter and cause extensive damage to the radiator, belts and other parts in its vicinity. A common preventative measure is to remove it using a procedure known as the Fan Delete Mod, but diligent regular inspection of the blades and timely replacement should suffice. -The stock E36 radiator has plastic necks which can crack or break over time. Even if it looks fine, you may want to replace it, especially near the 100k mark, which is about the typical time when radiators fail. An alternative is to replace it with an all metal unit. The same goes for the plastic thermostat housing, aluminum replacements are available. Again, regular visual inspection is the key to avoiding costly damage. -The fuel feed hose at the engine fitting can harden over time and cause seepage at that location. BMW’s recall campaign replaced the hose and clamps. -Engine ticking can occur, particularly with older E36’s. This is characterized by a ticking sound (at idle) or the sound of marbles (under throttle) on the passenger side of the engine bay, most noticeable just after startup. It usually happens because engine oil can take some time to reach the VANOS and hydraulic lifters for lubrication. Most agree that this is normal, and is not something to worry about, unless you hear the noise all the time. In that case, the lifters may need replacement. The M50 was notorious for this lifter noise, and in severe cases BMW replaced the motor under warranty. However, on the M42, the problem is usually a failing chain tensioner, a relatively easy fix. -Rough or poor idling is generally attributed to a dirty idle control valve, or a faulty oxygen sensor. But it can also be traced to the VANOS unit, which can get stuck in the advanced position, requiring a dealership adjustment or replacement. -On some ’93 and earlier M42 engines, which includes both the E30 & E36 318is, the profile gasket can be eroded by coolant, leading to failure anywhere from 30-70k mi. This is a costly problem since the cylinder head has to come off so the gasket can be replaced with an upgraded version. Although using only BMW approved coolant can help slow down the process, it does not prevent the failure. -Some European variants of the M52 engine before MY ’98 experienced premature cylinder bore wear, resulting in a loss of power and compression. This was attributed to the sulfur in gasoline, and the only solution is to replace the damaged alloy block. If you suspect you have this issue, have a compression test done. -Drive belt idler pulley on some E36/M52 models may have been installed incorrectly during production, causing premature wear and eventual failure of the belt. This will occur during the first few hundred miles, characterized by excessive belt noise. -Throttle valve can get stuck on some models, causing uncontrollable acceleration. This affected 1996 E36’s (410,000 units), but other years may also apply. The problem lies in both the cruise control and throttle cables, where the plastic bushing on the cable end can break, allowing the cable sleeve to get stuck. BMW issued a recall campaign for this, and the solution was to install a spring steel retainer clip on the cable ends to prevent the outer sleeve from dislodging from the bushing. -E36/M44 engines may have bad ICV’s, creating a whistling noise, or causing a hard start or no start condition. The ICV was manufactured with incorrect tolerances between the rotary valve and the housing. The newer updated part number is 13 41 1 435 846. -M50 engines with VANOS produced 1/92 to 8/94 may have problems starting in cold weather below 46 degrees fahrenheit, or in high altitudes. Symptoms include a check engine light, long cranking times, black smoke from exhaust, and wet spark plugs. When this occurs, the EPROM needs to be reprogrammed by the dealer (MoDiC programming software version 5.1 or higher). Transmission & Final Drive: -A faulty guide sleeve on the 1st & 2nd gear may cause the tranny to pop out of gear. Requires disassembly of the gearbox. -On manual trannies, 2nd gear can completely blow out, or it may refuse to go into 5th gear when cold. Though very rare, this problem is expensive and requires a rebuild or replacement altogether. -Squeaky clutch pedals are very common, the only solution is to replace the bushings with aftermarket parts, available from UUC Motorwerks. -Stock transmission mounts can cause excessive vibration or movement, resulting in missed shifts and engine over revving. This problem is commonly referred to as "the money shift". A number of stiffer aftermarket mounts are available at Bimmerworld. -Differential clutch pack retaining ring bolts can loosen or back out, eventually resulting in rear end failure. If you hear a ticking noise in the rear, have the final drive checked out. -Some clutches shudder when 1st or 2nd gear is engaged while the car is hot, or has been driven in stop and go traffic for long periods. This is due to a non-asbestos lining on the clutch plate. BMW apparently has a new lining available; however some new owners continue to experience this shuddering. -Flex discs (also known as Guibo couplings) can crack or shred prematurely. This coupling connects the driveline to the transmission. Characterized by a knocking under the tranny hump or a thunking noise under acceleration. Not overly difficult to replace. Antilock Braking System: -Faulty ABS pump motor relays manufactured prior to May ’96 can trigger the ABS warning light. -On rare occasions, the ABS warning light may glow briefly after turning on electrical accessories. This is a sign of a hardware problem with the ABS control module, which will need replacing. -ABS rear wheel speed sensors on ’92 E36’s had poor solder connections. If the date code is 0801 (80th day of 1991) or older, they need to be replaced. -On some ’93 318is and 325is, six bolts which fasten the bottom cover of the ABS hydraulic unit to its housing may not have been tightened properly during production. The proper torque is 15 Nm. If it’s looser than that, the hydraulic unit is probably damaged and should be replaced. Steering: -Many E36's had the lower steering column replaced as a result of corrosion; there was a recall campaign for this. -Power steering hose can leak. In worst cases, the condition eventually leads to hose failure, resulting in a loss of steering assist. -Worn tie rod ends are often noticeable as a judder under braking. This is commonly mistaken for warped rotors as it has almost the same feel. Suspension & Undercarriage: -Rear shock mount failure is a very common problem, and can occur in as little as 20k miles. The symptoms begin with a dull clunking noise in the rear over bumps or rough roads, indicating that the shock piston rod has separated from the bushing mount. This can progress into metallic noises as the mount bolts shear off if not replaced in a timely fashion. The broken mounts eventually damage and tear the rear shock towers. Stronger E46 mounts along with Z3 reinforcement plates are recommended for replacement, and even better aftermarket parts are available from outfits such as Rogue Engineering and Ground Control. -Weak front outer ball joints are typical on the E36. A common solution is to use stronger E30 control arms with ball joints preattached, simplifying the installation. All metal ball joints (Meyle) are another alternative, but at the cost of a slightly harsher ride. -Rear inner control arm bushings are another weak spot, and should be upgraded to the tougher ’96 or newer replacements. -Under (but not limited to) heavy racing or track conditions, the rear subframe bushing mounts can tear off the body, causing extensive damage. Though rare, this typically requires welding reinforcement plates to repair the body. -Rear trailing arm bushings can wear in as little as 50k miles, although there is debate on whether this is a fault or regular maintenance issue. Symptoms of bad trailing arm bushings include side movement of the rear end under acceleration, general looseness of the rear over bumps, and abnormal tire wear. United Bimmer has a DIY for this item. In a handful of isolated cases, the threaded holes for the console's 3 mounting bolts fatigued, allowing the console portion of the arm to break away from the car body. -Some E36’s may experience unusual wear along the outer edge of the front tires. This is resolved by replacing the upper strut to hub mounting bolt with an “E36 camber correction bolt”. It’s smaller in diameter than the standard bolt, allowing for ½ degree of camber adjustment. However, the dealer may not know what you’re referring to, as the documentation on this part (#07 11 99 00 58 7) is very sketchy. Internet rumor has it that there are some sort of legal implications to this issue??? Electrical / Electronics: -DME compartment flooding is a common problem for model years up to ’94. Symptoms are hard starting or no start condition after heavy rain or a car wash. Insufficient drainage allows water to collect in the intake plenum cowl for the heating/AC, and overflows into the DME compartment. BMW issued a service bulletin with an easy fix for the situation. -Earlier E36’s had issues regarding defective ignition coils from Zundspule and Bemis. They were replaced with Bosch coils. If you still have the older brands installed, replace them right away. Cracked coils can seriously damage the ECU. -Corrosion on electrical harnesses, particularly 2 and 3pin sensor wires, can result in erroneous readings and trigger warning lamps. Certain plug connections have a rectangular seal which comes off unnoticed, allowing debris to enter and raise the electrical resistance in the circuit, triggering a false warning. Often these problems are misdiagnosed. Some tin plated contacts have been replaced with gold by dealerships over the years to alleviate these issues. Problems include, but not limited to, oil level/pressure warning lamps, camshaft sensor, coolant level/temp sensors, incorrect fuel gauge & speedometer readings, and brake light warnings. Contact cleaner works well as a preventative measure. -Voltage regulators typically fail on 318’s fitted with Valeo alternators. The regulator can be replaced separately. -Power windows sometimes behave erratically, moving up or down only in 1” increments. This is attributed to a magnet on the motor shaft falling out of position. The magnet can be moved back into position to correct this problem. -A failing comfort relay causes the windows and sunroof to stop working inexplicably. -In rare instances, owners have reported major wire chafing in the trunk harness, causing interior and exterior lighting failures and numerous blown fuses. Visually inspect this harness from time to time to be on the safe side. -E36's with M42 engine and manual transmissions were recalled by BMW North America for incorrect routing of the oxygen sensor wiring harness. The wire could stretch and break, disconnecting it from the DME, and triggering the check engine light. -A capacitor failure in the climate control module prevents the blower from operating while the AC compressor is engaged. The lights on the control module will also dim or go out completely. Fortunately, someone has figured out how to fix this without buying a new module. -Glass breakage sensors on stock alarms supplied by Alpine can false trigger at times when the interior cabin temperature is high. -Radio problems have been reported, most regarding dimmed or no backlighting. This is a dealer fix, but a better alternative is to replace the radio altogether. -On some E36’s, most notably the ’95 M3, a faulty circuit in the safety relay can activate the hazard flashers and unlock the doors while going over bumps in the road. -The heater element on heated seats often fails and needs replacement. -Brake light switch failures are common, although there is debate on whether this is a quality control issue. Replacement is fairly easy. Interior/Exterior Fit and Finish: -Inadequate water drainage and/or rust proofing on some models causes rusting at the bottom of the front passenger side fender where it meets the door. -Brake ducts on earlier models were poorly attached and can be dislodged or fall off. This also damages or breaks off the external temperature sensor, which is attached inside the duct. -Early fog lamp lenses crack due to temperature related stresses, a warranty fix. -Some dashboards bulge up at the center air vent. Inadequate adhesion causes delamination problems on door panels. Midrange and tweeter speaker trim cracks are also common. -Glove boxes can sag over time, there is a fix for this problem. -Rear door noises on ’96 and later saloons are attributed to the type of rubber used on the door trim seals. -Sunroof and rear parcel shelf rattles are common. Replacing certain parts in the sunroof mechanism fixes the noise, and you can support the rear deck with some foam stuffing to eliminate the rattle. -Plastic headlight covers dull or get foggy. A number of compounds and polishes have been known to yield good results, but ultimately they ought to be replaced with the European glass units.
  6. 2 points
    In general terms, the Mini is remarkably reliable and potential faults are easy to spot. The vast majority of cars (some 98 per cent) were sold with the ‘TLC’ package, which covers all servicing charges for the first five years or 50,000 miles, and can be transferred to the next owner. Not only was this a great deal for new owners, it’s also good news for the secondhand market as it means that servicing has rarely been skimped or bodged. However, that doesn’t mean you can drop your guard. There were a few recalls over the years and it’s important to ensure that any potential purchase has had the full complement of remedies. The most high-profile recall was for a ‘static-discharge fire risk’ when refuelling (cars built before August 2001), but others include a front suspension ball-joint and lower-arm upgrade (cars up to August 2001 again), possible tyre-wall cuts (cars built in January and February 2002), and one for a handbrake fault on all pre-December 2002 Minis. Engines Overall, all the Mini engines are strong, but you should listen carefully for unusual noises. If a Cooper or Cooper S has a slight rattle at the top end, it could either mean the hydraulic tappets are on their way out or that the timing chain needs tensioning. Slowly bring the revs up and listen out for a bottom-end rattle. If you hear one it’s likely that the engine will have run out of oil at some stage. A quick look for signs of a leak from either the oil filter housing or the sump will confirm this. Either way, with such a wide choice of cars available, you should walk away if the engine sounds anything other than perfect. Exhaust The exhaust is stainless steel and should last forever, so it just needs to be examined for signs of damage from grounding. Gearbox If you are looking at a Cooper, listen out for gearbox whine from the transmission. The noise is likely to be evident in all gears and, if you experience this, the likely cause is a lack of oil – if you examine the driveshaft oil seals you will probably find that they have been leaking. The same could happen on a Cooper S, but with this car it’s also worth turning to full lock to check for more unwanted noises, which this time may indicate that the diff bearings are worn. The gearshift is operated by cables and the action should still be smooth in all forward gears; reverse is generally more difficult to engage, though, because of its lack of a synchromesh. Suspension/steering The dampers last well on all models, even if the car has seen regular trackday use. A clonking noise from the rear is a good indication that the top mounting bushes are shot. It can happen at the front too, although this is less common, but a similar noise at the front could also be caused by the front anti-roll bar links. Neither issue is complicated or expensive to fix, though. When parked, turn the steering from lock to lock and listen out for a banging noise coming from the steering column (ignore the buzz from the electric power steering – this is normal). This indicates a problem with the universal joint and there is a fix available under warranty. Out of warranty, though, the labour-intensive nature of the job means it can be quite expensive to have sorted, so many owners choose to live with it as it isn’t dangerous and won’t get worse. Wheels/tyres Examine the wheels for signs of kerbing and peeling lacquer. They can be repaired economically, but it does show evidence of a lack of care by the previous owner. Kerbing can also upset the wheel alignment, which is critical to a Mini’s handling and will also result in premature and uneven tyre wear. A BMW alignment check will cost around £130. Run-flat tyres (as fitted to 16in wheels and above) should be examined closely for wear and damage as they are expensive to replace. Ensure there is a tyre repair kit and a locking-wheel-nut key in the boot. Brakes Have a look through the wheels at the brakes to check condition. They can rust quickly if left unused outside for long periods. If this is evident it’s likely that they will squeal horribly on the test drive, but regular heavy braking to scrub off the rust should solve the problem. Pads and discs tend to wear at the same rate, and it’s common for the rears to wear out at around the same time as the fronts, usually at around 20,000 to 25,000 miles. As it will cost around £500 to get the whole lot replaced, it pays to either ensure it’s been done recently or negotiate a discount. Bodywork Most areas on the bodywork are easy to check and problems are usually obvious. However, you should still look closely for signs of accident damage. Grab hold of the front bumper and give it a firm shake to ensure it is still securely attached, as they are quite low and consequently easily damaged by speed bumps and kerbs. The blunt nose is very susceptible to stone chips, as is the windscreen, which should be examined for chips and cracks. Windscreen-wiper rubbers wear and break regularly, but are cheap and simple to replace. Interior/electrics Feel the carpets in the front footwells for dampness, particularly if you are looking at an early car (2001-2002), as they were susceptible to water leaks from the A-pillar. Many of these cars were repaired under warranty, but if it hasn’t been done this water can cause a range of electrical faults and cost as much as £1000 to fix. The ECU (or DME, as BMW likes to call it) costs £247 to replace. One of the body control modules (known technically as the BC1 unit) is sited in the footwell and it can be destroyed if water ingress is bad. There were a number of modifications made that resolved this issue, but it’s still important to check all electrical systems, including the central locking and the lights. For complete peace of mind, call a main dealer, quote the VIN number and ask what warranty and servicing work has been carried out on the car. The dash and all the switchgear are robust, although some of the plastics are easily scratched and the seats can sag, but, just like the bodywork, any problems are very obvious and should be factored-in to the purchase price.
  7. 2 points
    As title you may find you get a better response if you post in the correct section . If your post relates to BMW in general then it goes in here . If your post relates to a specific model or series they post it in that section. And if it has no relation to BMW then post in the relevant section .. If your not sure where to post then myself and the other mods are here to help please don't hesitate to pm us . Thanks for taking the time to read this .....
  8. 2 points
    If at anytime you would like to meet in South Wales, I would like to present our workshops as a meet location. I will personally be at your meet with fresh beaned coffee for all at anytime. I can also check your engine codes etc and allow some of your vehicles on our ramps to check the under carriage at no cost. (4 Ramps in Total). Sundays are best. Only a thought in the mist. My M5 is need of some attention from others in the same field. With great respect. Leon Profess LPG LTD.
  9. 2 points
    bmw festival at gaydon is probably the next midlands meet i think here's a link http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/event/bmw-festival-2/#.UZcwcrWkrJg
  10. 2 points
    No6 does not state wives. So I want to swap my wife
  11. 2 points
    I have recently purchased my dream car a E60 M5, I have previously owned 323i sport and E39 523i , I look forward to meets.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    Hotrods diner is a new American style car themed diner that will be ideal for BMW meets its in gravesend area as soon as its opened I will organise a meet but for now add them on Facebook to follow progress
  14. 2 points
    Currently owned: Cosmos Black E38 728i Diamond Black E34 540i Orient Blue E34 525i Touring Cardinal Red '83 Capri 2.8i (the first car I ever bought back in 1992!)
  15. 2 points
    You do it on purpose its going to happen. F1 cars can pull off without spinning in circles, im pretty sure a 328 can
  16. 2 points
    I have my own say on this personally... I'm a 20-year old with a 7-Series BMW that about 4 inches away from the ground. Every driver hates young people. Every driver hates BMWs. Every driver hates the fact that my car is as long as a house. Everyone hates that going over speedbumps for me is like turning upto a 3D movie with no 3D glasses, you just have to rely on the noises to experience the true horror of what's happening with very little vision of what's actually going on. So naturally everyone hates it. Add all this with my personalised number plate and people are more than happy to make assumptions. In Luton (where me and Snypa are from) there's also this culture with ethnics driving posh cars. We have a strong population of Asian residents and they have this habit of renting superb cars out to their younger family members/friends. So on many occasions you will see a Lamborghini being driven by a much younger individual than is the norm, uninsured. Me and my close affiliation of friends are from a higher class than most Asian residents in these parts, so we're quite lucky to be able to afford better cars than the usual 19-20 year olds; MK5 Golfs, BMW 3-Series', my 7-Series and so on. But because of the whole association of the afformentioned culture with cars, we ALL suffer. So, the whole idea of me having my car I take the brunt of the 'oh that's his parent's car' 'he's probably a drug dealer' 'he's got that from insurance frauds' and so on. So ofcourse other drivers won't give me way. It is pretty much down to jealousy. Nothing else. Having nice things attracts two types of people Charlee. Enthusiasts who share your enjoyment and jealous people who want nice things but aren't prepared to make an effort to help themselves.
  17. 2 points
    Been looking at wheels recently, found all this very confusing. But then I found this, I wont take any credit for it, only posting so it can help someone else. BMW 1 Series E81 04> 5x120 38-45 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 3 Series E30 Excl M3 82>90 4x100 20-30 205/55/15 205/45/16 205/40/17 3 Series E36 93>98 5x120 30-40 205/60/15 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 Optional Rear Upstep 240/40/17 255/35/18* 265/30/19* 3 Series E46 98>05 5x120 30-45 195/65/15 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 225/30/20 Optional Rear Upstep 255/35/18* 265/30/19* 3 Series E46 M3 99> 5x120 20-25 225/45/18 225/40/19 255/30/20 Rear Upstep 255/40/18 255/35/19 285/25/20* 3 Series E90 05> 5x120 30-40 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 225/30/20 Optional Rear Upstep 255/35/18 265/30/19 5 Series E39 96>02 5x120 15-25 205/65/15 225/55/16 235/45/17 235/40/18 235/40/19 Optional Rear Upstep 265/35/18 265/35/19* 5 Series E60 03> 5x120 15-20 225/55/16 245/45/17 245/40/18 245/35/19 255/30/20 Optional Rear Upstep 275/35/18 285/30/19 285/25/20* 6 Series 04> 5x120 15-20 245/50/17 245/45/18 245/40/19 245/35/20 255/30/22 Optional Rear Upstep 275/40/18 275/35/19 275/30/20 295/25/22 7 Series 02> 5x120 15-25 245/55/17 245/50/18 245/45/19 245/40/20 245/35/21 255/30/22 Optional Rear Upstep 275/35/20 295/30/21 295/25/22 Z3 96> 5x120 30-40 205/60/15 205/55/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 Optional Rear Upstep 245/40/17 255/35/18 265/30/19 Z4 03> 5x120 30-40 225/50/16 225/45/17 225/40/18 235/35/19 Optional Rear Upstep 245/40/17 255/35/18 265/30/19 X3 04> 5x120 40-45 235/55/17 235/50/18 255/40/19 245/35/20 X5 00> 5x120 40-45 235/65/17 255/55/18 255/50/19 265/45/20 285/35/22 305/35/23 295/30/24 the offset is all about how far the face of the wheel is from the hub. So as you said the smaller the offset the closer to the arch. The larger the offset, the closer the face of the wheel is to the hub, therefor creating more space between the face of the wheel and the arch. You also need to take into account the width of the actual rim. E.g a 9.5" rim with and offset of 45 will sit closer to the arch than a 9" rim with the same offset.
  18. 2 points
    Hi Sam, The facelift comprised of new front wings with then indicators being made slimmer and more moddern making the old black plastic type redundant. The nosecone was also changed to accomodate a new type kidney grille which stuck outwards rather than sinking inwards.
  19. 2 points
    For X5 and X6 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=17+42+7+795+757
  20. 2 points
    4 wheel geometry is where they get all 4 wheels pointing in the direction they should be,ie nice and straight,not sticking out/in or too much +/_ camber as to not cause any excessive wear on parts connected and most importantly tyres !! I used to go through a set of rear tyres every 6 months max until i got it done. Some of the best money Ive ever spent :) Ive had my current tyres on over a year now with no wearing issues at all :) and I dont hang about and also have the tendancy to do a little sideways action ;)
  21. 2 points
    i have moved this topic, please introduce yourself in the new members area, thanks
  22. 2 points
    07891 00 36 36 Speak to a guy named Paul,tell him I passed you onto him,He breaks e36's all day every day. I get all my bits from him :)Top bloke :) p.s. hes based in Walkern,near Hitchin but he is also on ebay.Think his tag is e36-spares
  23. 2 points
    Inspect the rear arches mate - common problem on that shape is rusty rear archs, aswell as the bootlid, bottom of the doors and front wings at the bottom. Ensure that all the electric windows work perfectly with no struggling what so ever. Give it a decent test drive and look out for any major noises from the soft top. As Gav said inspect the bushes, suspension components and brake lines. Doorcards are nice and secure (both of them) glovebox door isn't broken, the LCD display on the OBC isn't buggered, the climate control is fully functioning. Try the key on the doors and bootlid to ensure they haven't been replaced due to any accident damage. Just give it a good old once over mate :) Hope that helps :D
  24. 2 points
    Ill start 320d 2003 115k Control arm bushings, Front links, Strut mounts, Rear shock mounts, and hand brake not holding.
  25. 1 point


  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up