Greydog

Morning Tony The system is fairly simple the PDC sensors x 8 which from your description seem to be working the fact they are working also indicates the loom is OK. In the boot buried in front of the Battery is the PDC unit it has 3 plugs on top 1. Front 2. Rear 3. for towing connection these units often get wet so worth checking it. Look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your car. Then find the PDC unit and its Part number to help locate a replacement on the internet. Also check the sounder Drivers footwell or under drivers seat A copy of BMW 1.4.0 would be a brilliant addition to your tool box mounted on a Lap top it will give Dealer level Diagnostics cost should be under £30 Good Luck Dave

Morning Phil Welcome to the Forum Depending on Year up to around 2008/9 I believe it was in the boot right hand side after that it was I think it was combined with the Junction box that is buried behind behind the Glove Box. Check online for some Video help and a bucket of Patience 😅 Check the loom carefully my E70 had persistent PDC issues it turned out to be a crack in the insulation on the front bumper loom. Good luck Dave

Hi V Welcome to the Forum Not heard of this before but I would interpret this as a Driveline/Transmission Fault As your car is still under Warranty get it to a Dealer it could be a sensor fault but if it is a transmission fault such as low fluid or overheating you could cause damage. Dave

Morning Daren I have used a long pry bar to lock and hold the Prop while loosening the lock nuts (last one I did they were incredibly tight) Jobs a bit of a faff until it is on the bench Dave

You will be our "Go To Man" to interpret BMW speak into English 🤣 I would be tempted to just source the lot hoses clips everything then you will know everything is right. Don't forget BMW have a Classic Section and are often helpful on prices for classics My old Boss used to run V8 SD1's in the late 70's early 80's Dave

Morning Paul Have you tried looking at other sites like www.pelicanparts.com check their "Articles" section they have some great how too's with pictures I am assuming that you are trying to repair/replace a problematic fuel system here. In 1986 I was in a Sierra Cosworth so not in Beeemers, got my first BMW in 2002 a 4.4 X5. That was swapped for another X5 a 4.6is in 2004 However I would get part numbers then google them for Cost/Supply information so replacement can be done. The absorber may be there to take pulses out of the fuel delivery (only guessing here) BMW put it there for a reason and gave it a name they understood even if we don't 😁 Dave

Morning Mehmet Reading your post in a little over 5 years and around 44k miles you have spent £3000 on Tyres and Brakes. Even at Dealer prices that sounds high, unless of course that is two sets of tyres and a complete Brakes change (Discs and Pads) Wear items driving style will have a marked effect. Lesson don't buy tyres and Brakes at the Dealers find a good independent garage and tyre specialist. Service items oil, filters, spark Plugs wipers and battery. Again reading your post £1860 over 44k/5years around £380 per year (again at Dealer prices) Now the Biggie, £9000 on repairs. A/C compressor, evaporator, expansion valve, radiator tank, driveshaft flex joint, valve cover gasket, alternator, axle boots, motor mounts, oil filter housing, coolant tank, high pressure fuel pump. There are a few Items I would accept such as Axel Boots things wear and perish, oil filter housing (BMW use plastic filter housings and they can split/crack) Valve cover gaskets leak The remainder looks like you had the complete AC/Cooling system replaced at dealer costs £££ The high pressure fuel pump ?? Why Bottom line having had those items replaced I would expect that they last the life of the car so no I wouldn't be expecting to spend that again My E53 X5 4.6is has 164000 miles on the clock, and is semi retired now to keep miles down my E70 X5 125000 miles and is a daily driver I think in your situation I would keep the car and get my moneys worth, but then I understand my cars and am capable of carrying out most jobs myself. You seem to be reliant on Dealership and Specialists neither one is cheap also remember how dealers train the Technicians (who often become Specialists) they do not repair anything they replace parts at the customers cost?? If you were to trade the car or even go to another Make would things be any better ?? Good luck with making a decision Dave

Don't despair I changed the DPF exhaust clamp on my X5 3.0d last year Genuine replacement was £22 fitting took me 1/2 hour and I am old and not as bendy as I used to be 🤣 Any Exhaust specialist should be able to help even if it is a complete replacement flexi section Dave

Afternoon Paul Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com it is an online parts list as used by BMW Dealers Either search manually or put your Vin number into the search box. It will bring up your model then search the relevant sections the small exploded drawings will help identify the parts and you will have the Part Number for ordering a replacement. Also if you double click the part number you will see a list of alternates if available plus any other models they were used on Good luck Dave

Morning Bob Welcome to the Forum Ouch, I would begin by checking www.realoem.com (if you don't know about it already it is an online BMW parts list as used by dealers) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search for what you need. Once you have the part number then Google the part to get the best price/delivery I hope this helps Dave

Morning Kevin Welcome to the Forum No an Exhaust smell in the cabin is just not right You say the EGR cooler was replaced at a BMW Dealer do you know if this was a Recall or Warranty work ? I have read of issues where the EGR to exhaust gasket was missed it isn't difficult to check yourself if you are that way inclined (Picture Attached) if not phone a friend 😅 the gasket (compression type) should go between the shiny bit on the right and the rusty bit on the left. I hope this helps Dave PS The picture shows one with the gasket missing

Morning Jon Sounds like you have chased this around for awhile, have you checked the Throttle body and Throttle position sensor and loom ? Also check carefully the loom on the engine I have seen an issue caused by cracked insulation causing an intermittent short to earth. I guess you are aware of www.realoem.com Check the engine earth strap and it's connections engine mount to chassis rail seen a couple that needed replacing. Also in the engine bay there are 2 or 3 from memory earth multi-points worth checking they are clean and remount using an electrical contact paste. Last not sure what Diagnostic your using But PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 is perfect for your car just need a Laptop to set it up it will give Dealer level access Good Luck Dave

I wouldn't be holding my breath for that Paul 🤣 Dave

Morning Audrey BMW have a Classic Car section who are normally very helpful but only history of service and repairs carried out at Dealerships will be recorded. So paper history is still important. You can also use a BMW Vin decoder to gain knowledge of the cars original spec at order/build Dave

Yay great result Paul Plus the suns out (not sure how long) Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum My bet would be the Diversity antenna has suffered water ingress (common at around your cars age) or the loom (left hand side) where the boot hinge is has a crack in one or more of the wires (less common). My money would be on the Diversity antenna try holding the key on top of the rear spoiler that sometimes works Remember if you change the antenna your keys will need to be re-programmed to the car. Use www.realoem.com to get the correct part number for your car then use Google to search for the part. If your antenna is not in to bad a state you could try repair specialists like Cartronix or ECU testing to see if they can fix it. Changed a few of these including my brother inlaws 😁 Good Luck Dave

Morning Bledion Welcome to the Forum My brother in law has used a Company called GAD in Essex they are very knowledgeable worth a search and talking to them about what you want to achieve and of course how your wallet will feel afterwards 🤣 Dave

Good Luck Andy

Hi Lorraine Welcome to the Forum Sorry to say it may not be, though it does need investigation. If your lucky it may be a recall item though you should have received a letter You need the help of someone friend or Garage who has a BMW capable diagnostic program to check what is causing the issue. The Dealer will charge for diagnostics plus repair Dave

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum Never experienced this myself but a friend with a garage has seen 2 BMW convertible's with the same or similar. Apparently the sill drains were blocked on both (an amazing amount of water came out of a 3 series I arrived while one was still running out) causing motor issues. Trim off to fix I am afraid One thing I have suffered on one of my X5's is a window binding in it's runner and refusing to open some Silicon Spray and helping the window down (hand either side) worked with an assistant pressing the switch. Then doused the runners with the Silicon spray, as the weather dried out the window was fine but back into the winter and I noticed it slowing down re-sprayed with silicon to fix. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Darren I would change the Fluid and filter I put my X5's front on wheel ramps then jack up the rear and put it on axle stands to get it level. Tip make sure you can undo the Fill Plug before draining Then its a straight forward job make sure you have a couple of containers to collect the fluid there is quite a lot (or should be) At 115k I would think you should be OK just make sure you get the correct Fluid and filter. The only part you may need help with is the software updates a good Transmission Specialist should help talk to a few. Dave

Morning Daryl Welcome to the Forum You say LPFP and Control Module have been changed ? With what ? Were the replacements new or second hand ? I did read a post sometime ago where issues were caused by the EKP unit over heating and rather than change the unit the owner fitted Heat Sinks It may be the controller is at fault Dave

Morning Ahmed Welcome to the Forum Could be a sensor issue could be a pad sticking on it's retaining pins? Normally Front pads take the brunt of slowing and stopping so it needs checking. If you can't do it yourself you need the help of someone mechanically capable Dave

Morning Elijah Welcome to the Forum Normal things, does the cars general condition match the mileage. What is the service history (check it if you can) Make sure everything works inside all the switches and gadgets (there are no cheap fixes) Mechanically the BMW straight six is a strong engine it should be smooth and vibration/knock free, Gearbox is ZF and should have been serviced also if not it will need doing. Reading the add the guy sounds like a bit of a Trader so questions like is the title in his name may tell you more Good Luck Dave

Afternoon Paul Sticking calliper would be my guess, or pads binding in the holding pins. Did find a rear parking brake sticking on a friends Volvo car ran straight on the road but touch the brakes and it pulled to the left Any heat on any wheel centre ? Dave