Greydog

Hi Martin As you get the vibration at engine speed and road speed I would rule out (not completely) Tyres Wheels and Brakes my first thought would be the rotating parts in the engine bay. Check very carefully all pulleys belts and tensioners, water pump alternator pay attention the the crank pulley they have a bonded rubber vibration damper built in which have been known to deteriorate. Any imbalance in wheels tyres brakes or the drive train would show itself at set road speed not at increased engine speed Hope this helps Dave

As I have said it sadly is in the hands of the Dealer to interpret the Warranty rules or in perhaps make a Goodwill gesture ? The Toyota Dealer my son uses carried out 2 forced regeneration cycles 1 under Warranty the other a goodwill gesture, my own BMW dealer had my car back for a Recall (Drivers Airbag) I had ordered a new Auxiliary water pump when I collected the car they had fitted the Aux Water Pump as a "Goodwill gesture". I use a BMW Specialist for annual service/MOT everything else I do myself so a pleasant surprise. Dave

Hi James When you say a trip of 4 miles is that round trip ? If it is round trips they do seem short, I walk around 8 to 10 miles a day with my dogs. However it isn't what I think is reasonable, it is about chemistry. The particulate filter is just that a filter. All filters will clog if not either cleaned or changed on a regular basis. The particulate filter needs to reach an optimum temperature before it achieves a chemical reaction and self cleans/regenerates. If your 18400 miles has been made up from many journeys where the engine doesn't reach full operating temperature (not just 4 mile ones) for long enough for the regeneration cycle to start then the filter will clog. That is exactly the issue my son was having with his Toyota even though on some journeys his heater was working the Particulate filter just wasn't getting hot enough. He has got into the habit of going for a half hour drive 2 or 3 times a month and no more issues. All Dealers are different due to the staff and their interpretation of the situation in front of them. I have to say as your car is so new still that they have been harsh, another Dealer may have reacted differently who knows? Dave

Morning Eric Try pulling the FSR plugs (Final Stage Resistor) or Hedgehog as it is some times called. See if that cures the drain Dave

Hi Billy There are small exploded drawings on realoem that may help? Quarry Motors have always been very helpful and competitive on price, just make sure you are getting the correct part (part numbers from realoem) having 1 Xenon and 1 Halogen headlamp won't help (yes I do know someone who did that and couldn't understand why the loom wouldn't fit) !! Good Luck Dave

Morning Martin 17 years in Alfa's good with spanners then 🤣 When you say Modifications do you mean "body" or "mechanical" with "accessories" they tend to be personal for some it's heated seats others iplayer or android for the CIC system For body and mechanical there are 2 sources the "after market" body kits suspension, engine bit's Google searches are a starting point. There are also BMW specialist recyclers/breakers who may be a source of parts. Take a look at www.realoem.com for part numbers of the "M" series body kit parts. A good BMW specific diagnostic reader will help there are lots of functions that can be enabled through the diagnostic programs "see you home lights" "DRL" etc plus enabling other accessories if and when fitted. Of course you can also use it when servicing or repairing faults. Good Luck enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Billy Sounds like your car has suffered "clumsy oaf" syndrome at some point in the past. Is it the mounting on the headlamp unit that is broken or the (for want of a better description) tongue's on the indicator that are busted ? If it cant be repaired then replacement is required. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model, then look at the headlamp section for the part numbers for either the indicator unit or the headlamp complete. Once you have them/it then search all the usual suspects BMW specialist breakers Ebay etc or if your pockets are deep BMW. Good luck Dave

Morning James Particulate filters first appeared on diesel engines and many short "school run" type journeys by owners caused the same issue. One of my sons is a tree surgeon he rarely travels far from home and his Toyota pickup was the first time I saw this issue. The advice from the Toyota dealer was the same give it a goo blast once a week, it works The particulate filter needs to reach full operating temperature to be able to work effectively short journeys don't allow that. BMW are not alone as just about every car made now has a particulate filter regardless of cost. As your journeys are so short what about electric if your changing car Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum As I understand it is just the screen which has the Android built in the rest of the BMW Radio/CIC stays in the car connected through an ISO connector. So I would check www.realoem.com to find the your model and check which version of radio/CIC is fitted (it will tell you which years) You may find that the unit you have was also used in 2012 and earlier if your lucky ! If you are unlucky then the search goes on Good Luck Dave

First words fail me (more to the point not allowed here) with the pointless things these scum do. You say the car was recovered ? was it driveable ? From your description "all the system is not working" I take it you mean the screen and driver information system. The components for the CIC are mainly in the front of the car , maybe TV module or Amp in the boot. The advice I would give is (1) get Farady bags for all your keys (2) get a Crook lock old tech but very effective Dave

Hi Cameron If it says "turned" are they machine finish with a lacquer to protect them maybe. Have you talked to a wheel refinisher? Dave

Morning Andy I tow quite a bit, not a caravan but 2 fat horses in a trailer (great having a wife with a hobby !!) as John said in his response 1st check the towing capacity for your car/model/year my guess would be 700kgs un-braked 1500kgs braked but that isn't all you need to consider there is also the "nose weight" (the load on the Tow ball). Also don't just buy a 1500kg Van and then load it up with all your kit for an adventure week away, you will be overloaded and may run into issues with insurance/law if the worst happens. As John says do your research there is plenty of information on line, with regard to "Nose Weight" don't buy any fancy bits of kit to check a piece of wood cut to length and bathroom scales work for us, yes still needed when Wifey loads water and hay in the front of the trailer?? There should be some weight on the ball but not to much and you definitely don't want it lifting the ball. Google is your friend Dave

Hi Stephen Honest answer I don't have a clue Have you thought about the Classic Car Magazines/Web sites or Google BMW E34 Sales and see what comes up? Look at some of the adds and values for similar cars, check out the spec's to see how yours stacks up against them? That should give you some clues as to what the market is. Dave

Welcome to the Forum CamR75 Take a lot at one of the Online BMW Vin decoders that will give you the build sheet including the wheels and colour. Take care I remember reading somewhere that all the wheels are finished using a Wurth paint system and often other makes dont match to well. Dave

Welcome to the Forum Tim Ouch !! Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box, your model will come up then search the lighting section to see if a lens is available on it's own. If not then you may be lucky with a breaker if not it may be an insurance claim I am afraid Dave

Welcome to the Forum Archiebald70 Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box and it will bring up your model. Then search for what you need if they are there you will have the part number and a feel for cost in $ Dave

Morning Bharath That is very long winded, I would start by checking the sensor (if you haven't already) just in case there is a poor connection. Check online to see if there is a continuity value you can check with a multi meter. If the fuses are OK and wiring checks out plus if the boot release on the fob still operates, then consider changing the sensor. Dave

Morning Michael Your first code refers to the O2 sensor the second just confirms that the ECU isn't seeing the expected values from the sensor. Sadly many garages no longer fix/repair anything they read codes and change parts, faster for them (not to say more profitable) So back to your codes PO136 remember this tells you why the light is on as it isn't seeing the correct values it does NOT mean the sensor is broken. Things that can trigger the sensor are (1) Frayed wiring in the loom leading to it (2) Exhaust leaks ahead of the sensor (3) Inlet manifold leaks or vacuum leaks on the inlet side (4) Rusty leaking boss that the sensor mounts to. PO141 Confirms that the values are out of sync and should clear once the problem is repaired. I would begin at the sensor, is it correct for your car? Did you check www.realoem.com to make sure you have the correct sensor or is it a "generic" one assuming it is correct then start testing for leaks, inlet and exhaust, test the wiring carefully looking for any sign of chafing or fraying, with a multi meter test for continuity. Online you should be able to find the test procedure for the sensor and the correct values. Good luck Dave

Hi Nick Welcome to the Forum Did the garage/tyre supply place should have reset your system? The system triggers if there is a 25% difference in tyre pressures so first check all pressures make sure they are correct, then there is a reset sequence in your hand book (or You Tube) Dave

As long as it has a good history and no obvious issues "smoke, rattles, leaks" etc you should be OK. Auto or Manual ? Make sure all the switches and buttons work and do what they should, don't believe "aircon needs a regas stories" try and budget for suspension bushes. Dave

Hi Paul What is high mileage? One of our sons friends runs a 320d touring 2006 vintage it has an uprated intercooler and pipercross air filter EGR and Swirl flaps deleted and an ECU Remap he doesn't have a garage (flat dweller) so he and my son use "Dads" garage to do oil and filter changes use up my polish and other stuff, they do restock the beer fridge though. If anything his car is over maintained (but better that than none) his car has 270k + on the clock and around 220hp and 500nm torque very quick mid range and still 40+ mpg on a run. Dave

Morning Paul Is your engine broken ? or are you looking for more power ? If your current engine is in good condition an ECU Remap will give a considerable increase without any pain (well a little to your wallet) From memory the power output of the 2012 motor is similar to yours and you would still have all the fun of convincing everything to work together. Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum Not seen this done but it should be possible but I can think of loads of parts that will be needing upgrading. The straight 6 is heavier than the 4 pot So would need uprated Suspension, Brakes, will the steering column be affected? Engine management, fuel system and pumps, Will the gearbox cope with the additional torque? Will the Diff ?? Then the new DDE will need convincing to work with the other stuff in the car, interesting project but I don't think straight forward Dave

Morning Eric The indicator light beside the gear selector should go out after about 10/15 mins, allowing all systems to shut down sequentially. If the relay is hot/warm then something is energising it or probably the internal resistance is failing allowing the start/charge system to pull current or the starter could be on it's way. As the relay is the cheap bit I would replace it first, if the replacement energises then either the starter or possibly the CAS unit has a fault. The Magneti Marelli starter on my first X5 failed first symptoms were slow cranking even with a charged battery, then battery drain issues. Good spot Dave

Morning Adam Your issue could be a flap sticking/broken or the FSR (final stage resistor) starting to go. Take a look at www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the relevant sections you will get small exploded drawings which will help identify where stuff fits. Tip if plastic clips are involved buy spares before starting Good luck Dave