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Rants are part of the analysis process ( normally with me it ends with "how did I miss that) so Rant on matey 😅 You are probably on the money with one of the New parts having a fault. One of our sons friend had a problem that was down to the "O" ring seal on the fuel rail pressure sensor. The sensor was new and was fitted by a Garage that had carried out the work similar to yours, car started fine was driven home and sat on his drive for a coupe of days then wouldn't start ?? The Garage due to pressure of work couldn't help for a few days that's when our son volunteered me. We started at the tank and filter and we worked our way forward it was when checking the fuel rail pressure sensor we found a small crack/split in the "O" ring it was enough to not let rail pressure reach and hold sufficient pressure The Garage supplied him a new sensor (FOC) we fitted it and after around a dozen or so cranks it fired up and touch wood is still running OK. His Garage had never seen it before nor had I and personally wouldn't have suspected such a tiny split could be the cause. Hope you find it soon Dave

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum I would start with a careful back track of all work carried out a PITA I know but the only way to be certain each part is OK. Run fuel off after the filter through a Coffee filter paper that will show any metallic swarf if there is any (fingers crossed) Check the rail pressure sensor "O" ring I have seen one with a split that was causing similar issues to those you are getting I believe there is a Bleed sequence in ISTA (never had to use it myself) has that been followed? Still a diesel virgin myself so feeling my way here Dave

I’m trying to sell my OEM 19’’ E92 M3 alloys but struggling to do so on Facebook Marketplace, Gumtree and eBay. Can anyone offer any advice please?

By the sounds of it you are having major electrical issues with you Zed I found similar issues stemmed from water collecting in the boot area (on the left hand side under some trim cover) removed the cover and found a pool of water that had flooded out the electronic components in there which control the alarm system so possibly start there

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum Oo er never really thought about this before Try looking at www.realoem.com in the trim section (I think) it may help or Pictures of an M135 for clues You could also ask BMW Customer Services or a really good Body Shop Sorry that's all I can think of Dave

Welcome to the Forum Pugz Only one thing to say really ENJOY Dave

Thanks Dave, I'm not counting down the days just yet! 🙃

To hopefully bring this thread to a conclusion, I got the oil changed (twice) which did not fix the smoke. This week I got the turbo rebuilt. According to the indy, the seal in turbo is a common problem with lots of bmws. Need to let the car stand for a few days to see if there will be a build up but so far so good. Will report back.

Wishing everyone all the Best for 2024 I hope it is Peaceful and Successful and brings everyone some Sunshine into their lives If your out tonight take care and enjoy Dave

Wishing Everyone a Peaceful and Restful Christmas and a Brilliant 2024 Dave

Like most of the electronics and accessories on your car BMW don't make it they buy it in OEM sensors are I believe made by HUF and are not as expensive as they are when packed in a BMW Box 🤣 The biggest cost/pain is the tyre has to come off to change them that is why when one failed on my E70 I waited for Tyre change time then did all 4 Dave

Not unusual to have one fail I brought a set of 4 from Amazon at the last Tyre change as two of mine were acting up worked straight out of the box no issues. Dealer wanted a body part to fix them 4 from Amazon £20 or so and as the tyres were being changed anyway an easy fix.

Hi Rod I replaced the headunit with an Android unit £300 from Ebay. A 1 hr Plug and Play exercise better Sat nav, Bluetooth and several othe apps plus Android Auto all built in Easier to upgrade plus it retains all the BMW functions in the OEM unit all controlled from the i-Drive controller Have not discovered any downside yet (2 years in) Dave

First thing is get the bonnet open so you can sort issues As for diagnostics BMW ISTA/INPA is the best but you will need a laptop to mount it on. There are also i-Carsoft,Foxwell and Autologic that will work Dave

It got better once the TC was calibrated. However as the current tyres are not BMW star rated I’m changing them to Pirelli P zero’s this week. There was a couple of stored TC over temp errors so changing them just to be safe.

Morning Stu If this is for your Angel Eyes on the S53 I took a power feed from the where the ECU lives take off the lid and where the loom connects 3rd wire from the left is Red/white trace, earth I used the Headlamp earth so only running a single wire for power. This power feed is ACC switched but remains live for 20 secs after key out. You can test by sticking a pin into the wire and using a tester Dave

Morning Tarquin Welcome to the Forum (almost) Most cars now have an extra storage compartment under the boot floor these days where the spare used to live. Not sure about your comment about a raised boot floor unless the car had a sliding floor for easy loading Not sure what dogs you have but I have 5 HPR pointers and while I have an X5 my wife has a Subaru Outback and our daughter has a BMW 320d touring. All 5 are fine in the X5 4 are comfortable in the Subaru or the 3 series (The boot is around the same size height in both) Maybe look at a 5 series Touring, good hunting Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Just check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look for what you need probably front axel section. Double click the part number and if the were any alternates it will show a list. Take care as there could be a few ratio choices 3.73-1 3.08-1 The next challenge will be getting your hands on one at a reasonable price BMW tend to only sup[y exchange units at 4 figure sums plus fitting. So check out the specialist Dismantlers Dave

Morning Craig A few things First when you charge or Jump a BMW make sure it is at the charge points under the bonnet or remove the battery from the car if you don't you can cause damage. Your battery is dead I am afraid 9-10v after charging a healthy battery should show 12.5 to 12.8v around 14v + with engine running. It is that time of year mine died yesterday morning 🤔 Dave

Hi all, I recently purchased a Spare time project car .It's a 1997 z3 2.8i Roadster. It needs some tlc but just a bit worried about mileage 185,000 ? I've had modern M Cars but nothing this old ? Any advice?

Hi Neville Welcome to the Forum If you know the part number it helps but sources will be limited either BMW new = £££ Or there is a register of BMW Dismantlers worth checking them as well I have used Quarry Motors with success in the past Good Luck Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum I guess your price is from your BMW Dealer ? Not a problem I have ever had to deal with but I did read some time ago about a company "Toponline.com" worth a Google search. Apparently they make roof seals and repair kits. If I recall they are an American based outfit but they seem to have a good reputation You could also look at specialist dismantlers like Quarry Motors Good Luck Dave

Morning John The only time I have seen that code was on a 540d touring the cause there was a split inter cooler interesting it also threw a Transmission fault. Once the intercooler was replaced everything reset and ran like new Check all the charge hoses, pipes and the intercooler for damage would be a starting point Dave

Hi Dave, yes I am in touch with Erisin Customer services but they are suggesting obvious things that my installer has already tried, he did also move the fiber optic connection. Not sure why it isn't connecting, its got to be a settings thing I guess unless its just not compatible with NBT EVO 6? I am waiting for customer services to confirm if the unit is compatible with EVO 6 BMW software. Simon

Hi Jitendra The best rated front/rear dash cam currently is Thinkware about £200 and recommended by Camera website Viofo A119 V3 - RECOMMENDED. Buy now from Amazon (£99.59) There are always offerings by Nextbase who were one of the originals in the market The price from your Independent seems really fair remember BMW do not make these they have them made badged and boxed so when you add the Dealers mark up and around £200 p/hour labour rate it isn't difficult to get to their price Me I would DIY if that is beyond your skill set use the Independent Dave

Where is the car stored? Could you get a trickle charger or a solar panel to keep the battery topped up? I would cover it and have a small solar panel personally.

Yeh, that's not too dissimilar to mine when driven around town and put under hard acceleration. Motorway is definitely better and can achieve high 30's at a slightly slower pace than everyone else Also, if you have the autobox version then this would traditionally return lower MPG than a manual (seems to be the other way now with modern autoboxes)

Have a set in great condition for sale . Tyres legal tread Pilot sports but micro cracks on tread , the wheels have no marks or damage . Have heard they are desirable , I would keep but I prefer my M3 style ones now. Im Midlands UK, just putting it out there in case any interest. Need to find what they worth , could put pics on soon

All in this condition , look better than the photos

Hi Nkanyiso Welcome to the Forum There is a Register of Independent BMW Specialist check the lists you should find help there I would start with basics check all vacuum lines and the inlet for any air leaks, then the Vanos solenoids. Then check carefully the loom that feeds the coil packs for any signs of rubbing and chaffing. Repeat with the loom for the injectors, a misfire can be fuel or spark related If that is beyond you then check out the specialists register Good Luck Dave

Hi CarloL. If you can see my response to SeanC you'll see that I've not progressed with the white smoke. The guy that I briefly talked to ( and will probably bring the car back to),is BM Modification Works in Western Ind. Est D12. Hope this helps. R

I could not replicate the issue

Hi Dave Thanks for the link onto the parts site. Got me baffled. The old part I have is as shown on the diagram on the parts site. Sadly the end I want to see on the diagram is the end I can't see. I'm fresh back from a weeks holiday and the car has stayed pumped up over that time which is a result. Clearly there won't be a lot of air demand through the pipe. I've tried negotiating with the Mrs but after what I did to her tights when an old fan belt snapped she wasn't best receptive. As you suggest I'm going to cobble a small mesh filter and fix it to the pipe. Thanks for your help. cheers Mike

Hi Mark Fingers crossed for a simple fix Pease Pottage is good for me Dave

Morning Velin Welcome to the Forum If the key blade is a different pattern and doesn't work then it's highly possible that either the previous owner brought a cheap replacement just to sell with 2 keys. Or he had 2x1 series cars and now has another keyset just like yours 😅 As Stu says try re-programming the Fob that may work the final solution is BMW for another key £££. As an aside my E53 (2003) is still operating on the original OEM keys both work, my E70 (2009) has had 2 battery changes Dave

The remote may just need resetting to the car. It’s easy to do and there are loads of tutorials on the net. Just google key fob ews programming. hopefully it starts the car…. That’s the hard part.

Welcome to the Forum Donal ENJOY Dave

Not posted on a forum before, but had to contribute and hopefully add some clarity to the regular issue I read about e88 roof motor failure and water ingress. I’ve got a 2008 e88 120i, same issue as most with water logged motor, PDC damage etc, but found no issue with leaking back lights etc suggested by others. Well I found the usual collection of water under the roof in the storage area (you can see the drainage channel if you get the roof half open and the rear lid up) but then went on a hunt on Google to try and find out where the channel exits, but found nothing. After much head-scratching I removed the rear wheel arch liner and bingo, there it was, half-way up, the clogged rubber boot. It seems the channel blocks, water collects in the storage area above and then on acceleration, a tide of water washes into the boat space where the motor sits. I hope this helps someone else as I had no idea where the drain exit was. I also replaced the motor for £40, well happy!!

Some pictures of my Z3. I still have the original wheels and original foot mats. Does anybody know how many z3 Orinoco 2.8 was made ?

Well ?? Come on Matt did you love it or hate it Dave

Morning Rick Not sure what equipment they are using but I do know that downloading and then uploading to the car for even some of the more basic programs can take a few hours. So my guess would be they start an upload and then do other stuff, then check on progress if the program required an action obviously everything stops until the action is taken. As a garage they clearly have to schedule the downloads around other work to ensure the best use of time. Good Luck sounds like it's almost done Dave

Hi all… not sure if this has been done, but I’m bored… list your car history below… I’ll start. peugeot 309, Peugeot 205 gti 1.6, bmw e36 316,bmw e36 m3,bmw e34 520, bmw e34 525, bmw e34 518, french poo Laguna 2l, ford streetKa, bmw e90 320, bmw e46 316, bmw 3.0 e53 X5, Peugeot 307cc…. company cars…. ford escort van, golf tdi, golf gti, Hyundai accent, Hyundai lantra, rover 220, rover 620, Skoda Octavia, Skoda vrs, Audi TT, ford transit van, seat Leon, Vauxhall Astra, hyundai Tucson, Vauxhall combo, Audi A3. I think that’s it as well as our 2 motorhomes and a yamaha 125 motorbike. everybody…… GO!

Morning It seems you have been very lucky You need to check all drain holes they have small rubber flaps that can get blocked with leaves and stuff over time to make sure your engine bay doesn't get flooded again. Change the oil and check carefully for signs of water in the oil and filter also worth changing the fuel filter as well Good Luck Dave

Morning Markus Welcome to the Forum All clean underneath nothing jamming it ? What is the Error Code ? Have you checked it online ? I would check all wiring and connections, fuses and relays, then make sure that the mechanism isn't blocked or jammed then clear the code and see if it works. A diagnostic session will help if your stuck Dave

Hi George As with most stuff there are a lot of cheap copies out there stay away from them as you will get little or no support if it doesn't work. Just took a quick look at Ebay there is a Laptop with the software already loaded and the correct ODB cables for £185 looks OK to me. If your pretty good with software you can buy the software and leads for less but it sometimes can be fiddly setting it up. Google should be able to help you with test parameters for the sensor, check the inlet side for air/vacuum leaks. A split hose or Vac line can often fool people into swapping sensors. Dave

Been a while, just for an update, I fitted the other 'cylindrical' style of sensor that realoem specified and it's working great now. Not sure whether the other 'wedge' style was just faulty and a coincidence but the cylindrical one worked for me. Thanks again Dave for all the help, really appreciate it.

Hi Micky Check the sale of goods act, under the sale of goods act the item must be "Suitable for Purpose" Clearly with odd tyres and a Gearbox issue it is not. Put everything in writing,email them no Text or Whats App and only phone to confirm items in the email. Don't let them try and get you to fix your own car using the Warranty you have paid for !! In your email make sure that you outline the time scale when you got the car, when the fault first occured, when you first contacted them about it. Tell them you have no confidence in driving the car with a fault. Ask them to either have the car repaired for you (Don't forget a courtesy car while yours is off the road) Replace the car with the same or equivalent model or collect the car and refund you in full. If their choice is repair you need a time scale this has to be done in a Timely manner. Just don't let them give you the run around Dave

Morning Neville Get your friend to test the O2 sensors and also the Vanos operation, plus back track over the work you have done in case a connector is not seated If the EML is on there will be a reason Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum The fact that codes are self clearing would indicate they are symptoms not the cause. Check the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle Body I have experienced faulty units with both that didn't throw codes. Your restricted performance would make me think first throttle body or throttle pedal position sender as a starting point. When you scan are all control units seen or are some not responding? (Greyed out) Good Luck Dave

Sorry Richard not a user someone must know though, unusual they don't want your money 🤣 Dave