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My wife loves her BTW 320d convertible, a couple of weeks back the roof went down but would not go back up. Oh dear I thought. (Well that's the polite version) Anyhow discovered rear window regulator was at fault, the reason being water runs down the window and fills up the void just behind the door which because the drain plug is blocked with accumulated dirt and bmw cover it with a plastic underfloor cover means water can't escape. Which by the way fills up and fries the battery or sound amp, depending on which side. In my case luckily not quite but did mean the window regulator was immersed in water and gradually dusted through the site which makes the window go up and down. Hence roof would not go up because window wouldn't fully retract. So got hold of second hand rear window regulator swap them over and it all works again. So please learn this valuable lesson unless of course you wish to part with loads of money, check the drain plugs covered by plastic underfloor covering located behind the driver and passenger doors.

Evening all, So after a bit of surgery on my Achilles, I decided to get wheels refurbed whilst I couldn’t drive. Decided to get them done in gloss black and diamond cut. Had new boots fitted to match the rear Michelin PS4’s and new TPMS with black valves. Tyres replaced the Bridgestone Turanza S001’s that were worn on the shoulders and seemed to give the car erratic steering feel. Also treated it to new self levelling centre caps & a MOP. 7.5 hrs to wash the exterior. Washed, clay barred, polished with BH cleanser polish, then with Poorboys black hole and a wax coat of Dodo juice purple haze. Only got a couple of pics that I thought I’d share. Hoping to get it 4 wheel aligned again at the weekend. Refurbed wheel prior to new boots.

It turned out to be some bad connections in the wiring and it now works as it should, thank you to all for taking the time to help Rgds John

Morning Paul Wow that stirs the old grey matter I take it your familiar with www.realoem.com check the Classic section or BMW have a Classic section try their Customer services (I am told they can be slow) If I recall alarms were not a standard fitting back then so you may find Baur fitted it when they retrimmed the car Maybe a question to Baur in Stuttgart I am sure they will have an Archive Good Luck Dave

Hi Hamid Welcome to the Forum First check the engine bay side there is a distribution valve and Auxiliary water pump make sure it's working. Then inside the car if all fans and controls are working check the Final Stage Resistor (used to be a common fail on E53 X5's) Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model, then check the Heater section you should find the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) in the blower motor. You will now have all the part numbers you need to find a replacement at a sensible price. The FSR on X5 E53 models was a fiddle to change but not beyond anyone with a bit of sense Dave

After many months of messing with door i decided to try, again, the key in the door after about 10 tries THE DOOR OPENED!!! So I can finally get door panel off to access and replace the actuator. Thank you to everyone that responded and tried to help me. And to Greydog...I found the lever you were talking about.

Afternoon all The 26euro part was fitted - it has got us back the 1189 miles from Patras to Essex, we arrived yesterday afternoon The old girl has now just under 101250 miles on the clock - never missed a beat and 42.2 mpg at between 70-80 mph with this in mind I will start a new thread

Our LHD 2012 X3 2.0 diesel has been fantastic and for our road trips down to Greece is the absolutely perfect car. Now that it has a little over 100k miles on the clock I was toying with the idea of a newer LHD X3 but the second hand prices are just nuts - I just can't face leaving a twenty five grand car in a Greek side street just waiting for the latest knock or scratch from the careless parkers. The car has been serviced at main dealer during the five years we have had it - apart from tyres and servicing (OK the ABS sensor) mechanically the car is fine, there is a bit of a whining noise (water pump i believe) but it has always had that and I just don't know how to be rid of it. My thoughts are to spend a few quid on the car to ensure we get another 2-3 trouble free years service - are there any tips as to what would make sense to replace? Given the abs sensor was a problem I was thinking to replace those - I had the chance to have a good look underneath when the car had the sensor replaced. There is a bit of surface rust on some of the suspension components (but nothing drastic) and I saw a minor weep of oil at the rear diff. Appreciate any ideas!

I didn't mention it tbh as thought of a new battery on top of a major service bill wasn't appealing. I generally just run the car on eco locally but am confused if the stop start works on any other drive setting?? Today it decided not to work at all during a 100 mile round trip. No warning lights or anything. I think I can live with it for now tbh, more irritating than anything. Thanks tho

I opted for the S Drive diesel, fuel economy from what I’ve driven so far is very good, only had mine for 10 days, moved over from an Audi.

You and me both mate, the car does start. Apart from last week when I had to get the AA out. The AA man stated it was either battery or a lazy starter. I read up online that a discharged battery can give similar issues that are misdiagnosed as a starter issue, which prompted me to buy a battery tester. This then showed the connected battery as low. I therefore went out and bought a new battery that tested full before connecting to the car. Out of pure curiosity I tested the old battery when disconnected, which then showed as full, same with new, low when connected, full when not. it’s not only confusing, it’s extremely frustrating, thankfully the battery had a 60 day money back guarantee, so did manage to get my money back. The car has been fine since the problem resulting in the AA attending. But it has been in regular use again. I am away with work again next week for a full 6 days, so will see what happens when I return and report back Thank you for you help Dave, it is really appreciated 😁

Did I really say "no DTC errors" - that's what happens when I try to do two things at once... No ODB errors... I've unplugged the battery for 20mins. Let's see if that helps

Hi Dan, welcome back to the family!

Hi Dan Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Carole Check the 2 series posts on here regarding early Gearbox issues also check the Internet. BMW used Aisin Warner boxes in the 2 series and there have been a number of catastrophic fails recorded here ! Beware BMW also in the early/mid 2000's redeveloped the 4 cylinder engines there were a number of well publicised timing chain fails (even made Angela Ripon's program on TV) also a number of Fuel pump fails either problem resulting in Dealers recommending a new engine £££££ Remember like most Dealerships BMW don't repair anything they change complete parts/units If looking at 4 cylinder engines the N20, N26, were affected so service history is vital plus any invoices that show whether the timing chain has be replaced. In the same period BMW introduced changes in their 6 cylinder engines N52, N54, N55, and B58 were affected so also need careful vetting. Any noises rattles, misfires walkaway Dave

Morning John As it is illegal to watch while driving in the UK, BMW I believe have software in place to stop it being seen on the front screen Dave

Ok… so the only thing that stops the signal to the ignition is if the internal relay is activated by either the doors or the bonnet/ boot becoming active. Once the car has started then I guess the relay is activating and cutting the ignition feed?

The plan is to get the rear arms, all the drop links and anti roll bar bushes and a rear axle carrier first, then do the lot in one hit. I got a set of bolts with the front arms, but may use bmw ones. I’ve had a good look underneath the rear end, and the axle carrier is rather rusty, so will either get a new one or get one in reasonable condition from a breakers and have it stripped and powder coated with new bushes. Im gonna price up having the bodywork on the chassis around the rear stripped back, etch primed and a couple of coats of Por 15 on, as there is some rust that has gotten underneath the factory coating, and if I catch it now, it won’t return.

While I can't help with the wheels. Cracking colour, loving the shine. Pro job?

I had Hankook on front and Michelin Pilot 4 on rear, which were pretty good with road noise, I then got a set with Bridgestone Turanza on rear and Perelli P7 on front (didn't choose them came with alloys) I think they sound noticably louder. All run flat and on 18"s. I would look at noise rating for the tyres when you change. Try having a look at tyre settings in the car TPMS, I think mine is set to "comfort" I think it just means less pressure than "Eco" mode, so I I would assume they would be a bit quieter and softer for the what apparently my local council have the nerve to call roads.

Morning John It depends what Diagnostic he was using there are several systems that can communicate with the car but mainly the key control units. Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft there is quite a long list then there is BMW ISTA/INPA which can see every component, it includes Workshop Information (WIS) which gives Photos and descriptions of how to do the job plus advice on test programs to confirm diagnostics. I use ISTA at home The air suspension system isn't complicated it has 2 Air Springs 2 Ride Height sensors 2 Fuses a Relay a Control Unit (Programable) and the Compressor. As your issue started with the Rear Ride Height sensor I would begin there with the Plug Connector and wiring make sure there is no damage to the wiring. You will need a Wiring Diagram (ISTA) each plug has 3 wires that feed back to the Control Unit (the Control Unit is in the Rear Right Cubby at the bottom of the Fuse board) BMW rear air springs are used on several models not just X5's I have seen several where the wiring had become cracked and brittle with broken connections. That is where I would start, if continuity is there then in my experience Control Unit failure is rare but not impossible a replacement from a Dismantler would be a starting point and not to £££ they are plug and play. With ISTA they can be checked and recalibrated if needed. Dave

Good news, BMW have agreed to fit the potential fault part. Thanks for everyone's advice. Great site Regards

Morning John Welcome to the Forum First the obvious have you tried nipping up the nut ? If you have tried that and the leak remains then I would check the "O" ring for damage also the Nut and Housing. Green colour "O" rings are normally Viton material so I would check www.realoem.com if you haven't already? Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your model then check the Steering section. There should be a Part Number on your receipt from the Dealer that you can check against realoem that will confirm if it is correct I hope this helps Dave

Morning Adil Did you have the fluids changed or did the supplying garage ? Is there a receipt that shows which fluids were used ? Was a software update done ? A diagnostic scan is needed to confirm the fault it could be software related or the pump failing, fingers crossed its a simple fix Dave

HI, the E46 650i has just clicked over 100K and is 20 yrs old this year. The attached video shows the likely state of the oil seals on various parts of the engine, namely oil cooler and this is from the basket seals on each side of the engine. Just look at how brittle they become!!!! Also the oil cooler seals went the same way. Good to have captured this and what is really good is that mechanically the engine etc looks fab bmw seal VIDEO-2026-02-10-09-35-35.mp4

Thanks Trevor, always trying to help as this group is a mine of fab information.

Just picked the car up from having the gearbox and differentials done. One of the studs on the gearbox oil pan was just spinning, so had to be drilled and a nut and bolt fitted. I’d got a fuel filter from main dealer, but had the wrong filter in the box, so went and got them to change it for me on the way home. I’ll have that fitted in the next few weeks when I have the power steering and brake fluid changed. Total cost for differential oil was £212, and the gearbox filter and oil was £591. Labour was £400. Now, I’ll save up and replace the wheel bearings and brake backing discs,radius arms, wishbones, rear subframe bushes and suspension. Anyway, driving the car now, the gear changes are smooth, and feels much better. Bet you’re all running round trying to get rid of your x6’s now!😂 When I bought this, I knew I’d have to pay out big due to the mileage. At this mileage, it would be advisable to refresh the suspension and handling, as by now, the stock gear is way past its use by date, and the engine work Im having done is both preventative and will give many miles of trouble free driving.

Hi all I'm looking for a BMW 1 Series coupe E82, minimum 2.0 litre ideally in white, petrol, manual gearbox with MoT or able to get a fresh one for the sale. Please dm me if you know of one for sale.

Yay great news Tino You cant keep a determined man down 🤣🤣 Dave

I figured it out, bro. It’s my old two sensors. Soon as I unplugged the downstream ones transmission light turned off plugged them back in only cause I’m getting is for O2 sensors. Happy rite now

Morning Nick Looks like you have a transmission fault😁 either the Gearbox is in Limp mode or it won't select gears. The Diagnostics (looks like ISTA) are telling you where the issues are, work through them and clear them one by one, often faults are related clear one and others disappear. The main highlighted fault state is No Communication with the Gearbox Control Unit. I would start with the Gearbox fuses check them all, next the wiring loom (continuity) and the gearbox connector, unplug it and check and clean all the pins (good electrical contact cleaner) Next are there any signs of leaks from the connector plug seals check the fluid level. Note: Your box is I believe GM so make sure if topping up you have the correct fluids. Better to carryout a full service if not already done. I have read that some early GM boxes had Mechatronic issues the needed a replacement unit (not cheap) so fingers crossed. Dave

Hi Dave, car is booked into a local garage for Tuesday 10th. The guy who owns it is an ex BMW mechanic. 🤞I can finally get sorted. I will update you ☺️

Hi Sam Not sure what Diagnostic you used as I can't find that code ( use ISTA/INPA BMW specific) the only 480 codes I have seen are DPF driven so really odd. As for the ABS you can remove the control unit from the pump (4 Torx Bolts) without removing/disturbing the Hydraulics then send it to someone like ECU Testing who repair them. Before doing that it's worth checking the loom for damage Hope this helps Dave

Sorry Stu Just back in and had a rummage the seat adjuster must have been binned last clear out If your seat has memory the part number52108240108 item 4 in the drawing it was used in the E series car plus the Z4 so the Bay should have one Dave

I see an issue here… Comes with a filter though!

welcome to the club Joe!

Hi everyone and Happy New Year. After did some further investigation I have managed to find some further information regarding the alarm. Turns out that the Hella Alarm was sold as an aftermarket product in a lot of motor accessory shops as well as being offered and fitted by some BMW dealerships. By chance I found someone selling one on Ebay Australia and I contacted them twice!! to ask if they would be willing to sell me a copy of the wiring diagram which I was happy to pay them for but sadly they never responded. I have attached a couple of photos so you can see what the item looked like. In the meantime I have been tracing the wires to see where they go and this is what I have got so far. Hn 1 x Brown wire to horn Hn 1 x Brown wire to horn 3 x pairs of Brown with Yellow Stripe could be lights and doors, bonnet and boot locks T+ and T - . 2 x Brown wires to MK (Master Key)? 1 x Brown with White Stripe S? 1 x Solid Red wire (30 or 31) goes into a loom maybe onto starter or battery but nothing direct to battery lead that I can see. Also nothing going to coil. Also checked an on/off switch located in the glovebox which I thought maybe the alarm arming operation turned out to be just for the light and a spare feed. I need to do more tracing and check around the ignition switch just in case there is something there The main reason for me doing this is because i read somewhere that these alarms can allow the car to start and then cut out the engine to prevent them from being stolen? Whether this is true or not I have no idea I just want my car to run again without cutting out!!

Thanks again Dave I had never heard of the VIN Decoder site, looks as if the brakes were an upgrade. Have heard from BMW 7mm on pads and an overall inspection showed no warps. They said to monitor as car has been stood a while, thanks again for ur time

I agree. I've also used a square configuration in the winter and found it to be very effective, particularly in the snow. In addition to making life easier, going a little narrower with the appropriate offsets typically results in cost savings.

I was wary about taking it to someone without knowledge of how these older R12 based systems work and how to work out the correct R134 oil and gas levels. Found a great guy Paul https://pwautoelectrical.co.uk/ He worked on 80's BMWs when new - doing the aircon installs for dealers as in those days you could either order the car with aircon or get it done at the dealer once delivered. Definitely recommend him for anyone wanting similar. He tested it, found a leak, had to replace a couple of seals and rethread a connector, All good now just need the warm weather :)

Morning Bob Welcome to the Forum It is safe to fit Non Runflat tyres to Runflat Rims, the benefits are a wider choice of tyres and costs been doing it for years with my X5's However, if it's only cost then you may well end up with compromised handling/road holding cheap tyres are cheap for a reason. Potholes are a real problem in the summer months easier to see but in the darker months when they are full of water a real issue and danger. Fitting tyres with a deeper sidewall may be possible but may also give clearance issues so check carefully. An alternative is to fit a smaller rim with a deeper sidewall tyre Good Luck Dave

I will do an update if I find anything

I agree with Dave, back in the day most alarms were retrofit and Hella being an independent company supplying electrical relays and associated switches to fit to Baur and other styling houses of the era. I would be tempted to track the wires individually to see where they go to - I would imagine one or two would go to the starter motor and ignition switch / coil, etc Let us know how you get on with it all

Oooooh that’s nice!

Thanks for the quick response Dave. Just started my journey with this F31 had an E46 quote some years ago. Hope I dont regret it. May just take a gamble with some so called oem msport compatible ones. Cheers Dave

Hi Jock. Is the car 4 wheel drive? 4x4 centre bearing? that would be my first guess. does it make the noise when stationary?

Welcome Trevor Try and check Check fuse F46 / F48 (glovebox) and F60 (rear right) first. Then Inspect for any signs of spilled liquid around the buttons. Also disconnect battery for 5–10 minutes to hard-reset modules. If nothing then can with diagnostic tool, look for “Switch Cluster” or “Center Console Electronics” faults. If still no lights or function, likely module failure or connector dislodged. Hope this helps

Mileage is154k and MoT to Aug 2nd 26. Sorry for earlier mistakes.

Hi Paul Just contact https://www.ecutesting.com they are in Derbyshire they offer and excellent service and I have used them several times they also Warranty all their work Worth contacting them and talking through what you need Dave

Morning Eric I was told some years ago that wire is a "transport connection" only used between the factory and the Dealership it should be taped out of the way but it seems many Dealers just leave it hanging ?? My sister inlaw asked if I knew what it should be connected to, I told her the "ejector seat" don't touch it Bless she told several friends their car could have ejector seats I haven't had the heart to tell her it was a wind up !! My brother inlaw thinks it's hilarious Dave