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Hello Everyone, This is my first post. I used to be a member of the official BMW GB owners' club, but it was mainly a social club and devoid of any technical stuff. I've had my 2007 E60 535d Sport from new, only 82k miles, £10k of factory extras and its near perfect in every way - it drives like new. But I'm thinking about a new G80 M3 and I need some advice about servicing. Does anyone know if the car's computer can be reset for service items using the trip button? Ignition on, hold trip button down, select service, hold down to reset and then confirm - does this work? My main dealer is reluctant to be helpful. I'm near Northallerton in North Yorkshire - are there any G80 M3 owners nearby? Thanks hopefully Orchpot BMW_G80_M3_Service_Reset_Guide_With_Diagrams.pdf

Is there a way to get to get out of limp mode

welcome to the club Joe!

Ok, quick update. If I gently pull the accelerator pedal back when idling or if I rev it up and gently pull it back, revs behave normal and idle is correct. Am I right in thinking this actually points to an issue with the accelerator pedal sensor? If so, is there a method to clean it up in the short term, or is it a straight replacement kind of job. Thanks again.

Hi - new to forum. I have a 220i M series 2024 suffering from the headlight condensation problem. Started in October on one headlight and now the other has followed suit. Under warranty, the dealer pressure tested the light and said it was faulty and would be replaced. Unfortunately what has been happening in the past is that they have been replacing the headlights with ones that are also faulty hence ongoing problem. Apparently headlights manufactured after September/October 2025 should now be fitted. I’m still waiting as have been told there are no replacements in the country! BMW - major car manufacturer - should have sorted this mess out years ago!

Hi. Long story. I have a 2013 F30 335i with the PWG N55 engine. The engine blew and I got it replaced with a 2015 EWG N55 engine. I got it back from the mechanic and it was running, but running rich and no boost, you could tell the car was unhappy. My assumption for no boost and running in poo conditions was that it was running with the old PWG DME and a PWG tune, which may not have had the hardware and logic to run electric wastegate. Little did I know that my mechanic had supposedly not plugged in the electronic wastegate plug as he misheard me for saying to unplug the diverter valve to I get compressor surge since I want the turbo flutter sound. (yes, I know it's bad for the turbo, I just want it for purely sound). So I go home and attempt to flash the car on a PWG tune just to see what happens. The bootmod3 OTS tune cannot successfully be flashed on the car, so I assumed I needed a new DME to run the hardware for the car to be alright. Now luckily, I have a friend with a blown M235i. Both my friends car and my engine are 2015 EWG N55's, only difference is his is a convertible. That's literally it. So I grabbed his DME, got it cloned from my old DME so the ISN align, and I attempt to start the car. Only cranks, doesn't start. I somewhat expected this since I thought I would have had to reflash a tune on it anyway, but still thought that it could have started since both DME's (my old PWG DME and my friends new EWG DME) were running on stage 2 tunes. Different platforms however, his on MHD and mine on bootmod3. Now here's where it gets complicated. The person I went to get my ECU cloned said that they have no choice but to clone everything, not specifically the ISN and VIN alone, so I was thinking the new DME was currently running on an incomplete map which makes sense as to why its not actually turning over and simply cranking. However, after contacting bootmod3 support and getting them to switch my maps from PWG to EWG, after attempting to flash the tune, it fails specifically at 87%. Every single time. No exception. So after doing miniscule troubleshooting here and there, turns out my battery was exceptionally low on charge. So I went and replaced it with another battery, same spec, AGM, 85ah, only thing about the new one was I bought this new one the moment my engine seized, about 4-5 months ago, so it had just been sitting in my friends garage ever since. Now this is where it gets bad and my impatience really starts to show. I can't exactly remember if either ECU cranked after the battery swapover, to the best of my knowledge, I think the last crank attempt that car had was on the new battery on the EWG DME. Anyway, I was swapping over both DME's repeatedly trying to flash the EWG tune to atleast see if either one of the tune's would go through, also I was hooking up jumper cables to my other car, putting a jump pack on the car aswell, I could hear the relays chattering aggressively, it was really a mess. It ended up at a point, which is still where I am now after 2 days, where no matter what DME is in the car, no matter the voltage of the battery, it simply does not want to start. Since then, my theory is that the reason the tune did not successfully flash, and made sense as to why it would fail at 87% specifically on both DME's, is due to the wastegate plug being unplugged, which to my knowledge is a critical sensor that the DME requires to have communication with when flashing a full flash. At this point, it could be anything. I'm guessing something electrical, but I have no idea what it could possibly be. The new battery (the one that was sitting for 4-5 months) I bought a battery charger for, was resting at about 12.5v, currently sitting at about 12.2v, is enough for atleast a crank attempt but nothing. As soon as I attempt to get the car to start, the dash just turns off. Currently, the car in ignition cycles through (according to my memory) an ABS code, a tyre sensor code, a fuel supply code, and some other code. I cannot remember those codes cycling through when the car was just given back to me. Only code that I can remember is a drivetrain malfunction code, that was there since it was given back to me. My mechanic assumed it was just because of the boost problems which the tune should fix. Not sure how he thought it was okay to give the car back to me with the wastegate unplugged, but thats besides the point. I genuinely have no idea why the car isn't even cranking. A bad tune should allow cranking, low voltage should allow cranking, error codes should allow cranking, I don't understand. It's important to mention that after looking around for the wastegate plug, it seems as if it's plugged in. Not sure if I'm looking at the right thing though, I'm 90% sure it's plugged in though. bootmod3 displays no codes or faults. I would really appreciate the help. I've dropped so much unnecessary money on this car and I atleast want it to drive. Thanks.

Hello, can you lower the rear seats? There should be a manual release in the boot if you can access through there.

Trying to figure out my transmission code when I run ista+ it gives me the code EGS_0x32 if I change the transmission control module with this fix that

Does anyone have or know of where to acquire a Hard Top roof and fitting kit for my Z3 Would appreciate if anyone knows of one or has one and especially the fitting kit for sale - just message me through here initially, Thanks

Morning Gary Not sure that will work as I believe the mirror mounting angles are different LHD/RHD but I may be wrong Swapping the Mirror internals should be possible though Good Luck Dave

Morning Kevin Your into the realms of Personal choice and Budget here Personally I like the same tyres all round, so as you have Bridgestone on the Front I would go that route. Then there is the Budget if your able to stick with BMW approved tyres I would do so (Bridgestone are BMW OEM fitment) ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum What state is the battery low voltage can be behind all sorts of Odd behaviour, check voltage at the charge points under the bonnet at rest key out engine off it should be 12.5v with the engine running you should see 14.5v+ but to be sure I would get a Diagnostic scan carried out. Steering after all is important 🤣 Dave

Morning Paul Have you tried contacting Hella Direct they may have a customer services that can help. A friend in Belgium had had a 7 series at around that time he had a hidden Isolation switch that after start had to be pushed or it would cut out. His was under the dash near the centre console. If my old memory is working it cut the fuel pump Good Luck Dave

Hi Porlus, Thank you for contacting me with your question. I have to say for a start that my efforts in creating a responding issue with BMW fell completely on my face - virtually no-one wanted to get involved. Therefore, all I can offer is advice. If you are buying from a dealer than almost certainly get them to check whether the problem has been addressed. I believe all it requires is a simple but accurately drilled hole that will allow collective water in the sills to drain away regularly. This simple remedy should diminish the window winder mechanisms from getting drowned in residual water. Push that this is done as part of your gaurentee/warranty needs. If you are purchasing from a private seller you have far less control on the issue but maybe as part of a bargaining stance it could still be in your best interest to get done. Do not consider not buying the car, but rather just make sure it has been done so that it saves you £2000 !!! All the best !

All right, my BMW heads I’m running itsa D an I got the code of egs G_0x32 which I looked up and it says transmission control module. I was wondering if I replaced the control module will it fix the problem?

Morning David Welcome to the Forum If you aren't aware check www.realoem.com classic section enter the last 7 digits of your Vin then check the section you need (Clutch) Double click part numbers and you should see a list of Part numbers and any alternatives that were used. You will also see dimensional information. An internet search using the alternate part numbers may help source something (he says hopefully) I guess you have already tried BMW UK Classic Customer support If none of that works an Engineering shop may be able to re-bore the cylinders you have or may be remanufacture them Good Luck Dave

Delayed with my update I had the spindles changed by a local (and excellent) independent specialising in German cars Excellent job, great price and highly recommended if you are in the Colchester area happy to pass on details I sometimes amuse myself with a few opening and closings just to listen to the almost silent and smooth action

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Good news Mark 😁 Simple fixes are the best Back to your other Forum it's nice to know you have a sense of Humour 🤣 Dave

Thanks again Dave I had never heard of the VIN Decoder site, looks as if the brakes were an upgrade. Have heard from BMW 7mm on pads and an overall inspection showed no warps. They said to monitor as car has been stood a while, thanks again for ur time

Hi Terry Welcome to the Forum As I understand it you either need an add on MMI box or a replacement Android Screen which would allow Carplay and Android Auto Good Luck Dave

Hi Firat The fact you get erratic drops in voltage which coincide with your description "feels like the car hits a wall" have you checked the pulleys tensioners and belts ? I have seen 2 instances (1) a frayed belt becoming tangled and snatching when the frayed part caught up (2) The crankshaft pulley rubber isolator breaking up caused a similar effect. The fact voltage drops to 12.5v when you get the effect would point towards the Alternator being stopped momentarily or longer, again check pulleys and belts and the engine earth straps If you have access to ISTA you should be able to see the Fault Memory for the Engine DME and the Transmission plus all other stored codes If codes were cleared when you registered the battery (was the Battery replaced or Fully charged) temporarily the car would see no Issues as soon as a fault or the critical fault re-occurred the erratic performance returned. Dave

Hi I have recently purchased a 2023 M135i and am noticing a grinding/rubbing noise when braking especially noticeable at slow speed. BMW claiming that it’s barely noticeable so is within tolerance. Car is from main dealer and has only covered 9k with FBMWSH. Any help would be gratefully received, thank you

Did you find a solution to this I have the same problem. Flashing AC BUTTON and now it turned off completely and doesn’t work whilst I’m driving. When I turn the car off and turn it on again the same thing happens, flashing and then it stops completely and ac won’t turn on at all.

Hi Just bought 118 sport, and was wondering should the parking sensors stay on even when taken out off gear and hand brake on