Latest Posts

Thanks so much for your help and advice.I really appreciate it. I will have a look at theses fuses.

Hi Rhys Near side cable can be a PITA that side has a 3 or 4 inch long sorry 75 to 100mm left hand thread on it seems to take forever to release from the actuator If you haven't already take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the rear axel or brakes sections you should find it and the small exploded drawing will help Good Luck Dave

Good morning all, I’ve had my new to me F31 335d for 4 months now. Whilst I like the alloys I would like a little more comfort on the road so would like to know if anyone would be interested in swapping alloy wheels with me? They’re Rohana RFX11 wheels, 245/30/20 fronts 275/30/20 rears. I am after a set of M437 alloys. Mainly to give me a little more rubber on the road and a touch less road noise. Ill supply more detailed photographs but attached is one showing them when they’re not caked in road grime Thanks!

Moring DIMA Welcome to the Forum If we don't know the car, can't see the car how can we give an opinion ?? I may as well ask for your opinion on my E70 If your considering purchasing an F10 528i then History History History and General condition are the way to go a well maintained and looked after car always stands out Dave

Morning Andrew That would indicate a fault with the Air Intake Temp sensor Dave

🤣🤣E53 car wash mode 🤣🤣

Hi ,what do you think about an F10 528i se 3.0 petrol ,6 speed manual.Thanks

Good morning! Well I'm back, the Pre-LCI E90 is about 85% done, just a lot of small things need to be done to it but she's on the road now. Back to the OBD 😅 I am convinced there is an issue with the FRM. I recently got my hands on an Autel MaxiSys Ultra S2 and attempted to connect but got mixed feedback every time i tried to do so. First issue, it would not auto read the VIN, I had to put it in manually every time. Second issue, the scans were inconsistent. The first scan, it connected and said that every system had an issue and they were all permanent codes, but we could not access any of the systems. The second time, could not establish a connection. The third time, it connected and said that only 3 systems had issues but again, could not access any of the systems. I did some research, and apparently these Pre-Facelift E90's are notoriously prone to FRM failure. And now that i think about it, I have been noticing issues with my interior lights glitching in addition to the OBD issues. Apparently early FRM1 and FRM2 modules in Pre-LCI E90's would often brick themselves because of software corruption due to voltage fluctuations either from a battery too low on charge or a jumpstart and I'm thinking this is my issue. I do have two LCI E90's in my yard that I didn't have issues connecting to via OBD II, so I'm thinking that I can just take the FRM out of one of those and swap it into the Pre-LCI E90, would I be able to test it initially or does it need to be programmed to the vehicle?

I’ve already cleared all and there are no errors. My guess at this point is that the issue could be related to the transmission control unit reading incorrect torque data from the engine control unit. That would also explain why cruise control shifts normally, as it seems to use different map. Is that possible? Appreciate your time.

When I had the AMG's 10k was average for the rears anything over and your locked in Miss Daisy mode 🤣

Morning Garry Welcome to the Forum You should have an Engine compartment fuse/relay box up near a scuttle (probably hidden under a cover) R1 is normally the DME/DDE relay. I take it all fuses have been checked carefully also check the Main fuse box in the cabin fuses and Relays. What leads you to think there is an issue with the relay? Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum My bet is Battery dying check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet, anything below 12.5v with the engine off would indicate a discharged or dying battery. Good Luck Dave

Hi Colin and Welcome What are you needing to learn about ? Happy to help if we can Dave

Hi Ty Welcome to the Forum Try Googling the Register of BMW Specialists they are normally ex BMW guys so will have knowledge and the right kit. There should be one local to you Good Luck Dave

Morning Chas dee Welcome to the Forum Either BMW or any with an anti fungal additive (I use Prestone) Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Yes, mostly local trips of 10-15 miles but the car has actually done a 100 mile motorway trip recently.

Thanks Dave I will pass on your advice to the garage. Fingers crossed 🤞 I'm really hoping it is the battery. I will update you on Tuesday ☺️

welcome to the club Melvin!!

New tensioner has been fitted, the noise has now stopped! Thanks for coming back to me.

Hi Alex Welcome to the Forum 804415 ....Radio remote control.... Permanent (replaced the battery in the remote, deleted code but it came back) Have you tried another key or do you just have the 1 ? Try using a good contact cleaner on the Battery contacts 80442A .....Light operating unit .... Intermittent Sounds like the Rotary control switch unplug it and contact cleaner again plug and switch 48069E ..... Wheel calibration....permanent The next 6 codes are all related either the TPMS control is having a hissy fit or one or more of the wheel sensors have an issue 4806F4....rear right .... Intermittent 48077C...front left.... permanent 48077D....front right.... permanent 48077E.....rear left .... permanent 48077F....rear right... permanent 13820A...radiator blind blocked..... permanent Have you checked for any physicall blockage ? Check Fuses and Relay 13820B.....radiator blind blocked.... permanent Hope this helps Dave

hi Endrit Welcome to the Forum Some leaks can be a pain to find. I start by first cleaning thoroughly then run the engine and start at the top Cam Cover check for signs of a leak working down to the drip point Are you sure of the engine our friends car same year as yours is B47 Dave

I didn’t know about the difference with the wheels. Learn something new everyday! More than likely, I will sell the e46 parts, as there is about 6k worth, and everything except the bilstein b12 pro suspension and Brembo discs and pads, everything is genuine bmw with all the receipts from main dealer. As for the x6, the next job is front wheel bearings, and track rod ends, then the control arm bushes and top wishbone bushes and ball joints. They should be done in the next few weeks, then I’ll do the rear ones.

Hi Sam Not sure what Diagnostic you used as I can't find that code ( use ISTA/INPA BMW specific) the only 480 codes I have seen are DPF driven so really odd. As for the ABS you can remove the control unit from the pump (4 Torx Bolts) without removing/disturbing the Hydraulics then send it to someone like ECU Testing who repair them. Before doing that it's worth checking the loom for damage Hope this helps Dave

Morning Daniel Welcome to the Forum My first thought is get a Diagnostic scan done, second thought is early 2000's BMW's many suffered a lurch in the transmission when stopping. When was the transmission serviced last ? I haven't heard of people suffering this from the lurch for years Dave

New seat adjuster in and a new alternator fitted…. 2 hours of Saturday unavailable for shopping…. Great stuff! Productive day… now I can get in the car and charging is happening! Although the car is reading 11.0 when running… took it for a blat and it got up to 14.1 so I’ll give it a good charge today and hopefully it keeps the battery charged. @Greydog thank you for your knowledge as always.