Greydog

Morning Martin I am the wrong man to talk to about economy my V8 averages 19 mpg but with a little concentration and effort 😈 I can get single figures with ease. X1 is the X3 baby brother X5 is the X3 big brother X3 will have 5 doors slightly bigger boot and more range of engines, 2.0 2.5 3.0 petrol and 2.0 3.0 diesel. We have a friend who runs an X3 with the 3.0 diesel very impressive and she see's mid to high 30's around town and into the 40's on the motorway If economy is high on your list the forget the X drive cars as they are permanent AWD not switchable and generally heavier. The X1, X3, X5 have more ground clearance so may be easier to get in and out of than a slinky 3 series Convertable. Engine wise the 4 cylinder N47 Diesel came in 1.6 l 94bhp and 114 bhp (badged 1.8) N47 2.0 Diesel 114 bhp (also badged 1.8 Confusing eh) then several stages of tune from 141 bhp to 215 bhp. Do the research on the timing chain issue as I said earlier it is well documented but cars after 2009/10 seem better. The N57 Diesel is straight six 3.0l and depending on age and variant produce from 200bhp to 370bhp Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum First the sun roof not sure about an answer to this question? There used to be several Companies in the 1960/70's that did sun roofs but haven't heard of any for years. Personally I searched for an X5 without the sun roof as with Air conditioning I never used the ones in previous cars for years. One less thing to go wrong. Engine wise BMW use the N47 diesel in two flavours Single turbo and Twin turbo. The N47 had some well documented timing chain issues but 2009/10 onward's seem engines seem better (no personal experience of these engines as I have a fat V8) Xdrive cars use the twin turbo version with around 200+ hp. X drive is BMW's permanent AWD system first developed in the 1990's so well tried and tested and very reassuring in slippery conditions. In your search don't dismiss the X3 more choice of engines. Talk to your local BMW Dealer and tell them what your looking for also there is a Register of BMW specialists who may be of use. Good luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum Very nice car choice, the engine responds well to tuning I have a Brother Inlaw who has run then for years (on his 4th) in the 5 series. He has run 530 and 535 his current car is a 535d Touring with I am told 350+ HP, all I can confirm is it is seriously quick. There is a company in West London (Uxbridge area I think) that I have read good things about B W Chip Tuning they are BMW specialists, worth a phone call I would think Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Mac33 Welcome to the Forum What a good find the 318 was the real work horse brought by business users so finding a genuine low miler is a good omen. If you aren't aware www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. There are small exploded drawings that help with how stuff fits and all the correct part numbers. Also worth looking at www.pelicanparts.com a USA site so steering wheel on the wrong side but some really great "How To's" with pictures. ENJOY Dave

Hi Steve If you want to do further on electric you must need a longer charging lead 🤣 🤣 They do have some punch out on the road though don't they you must really appreciate knowing you are going where your pointing the car As said earlier ENJOY (watch your license !! Son Inlaw on 9 points same car) Dave

Hi Simon Welcome to the Forum Don't make it intuitive do they?? I take it you don't have the iDrive screen? from what I have read there is a menu sequence in the Radio which lets you select "Phone" then there is a pairing sequence your handbook should help if not try YouTube there are normally how to's on there Good Luck Dave

Morning Gail Welcome to the Forum You need the codes read by someone with BMW specific diagnostics By the way the Jump points are under the bonnet (hood) jumping direct to the battery is not good and may well have caused some issues. Either check or get someone to check all the fuses Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum I have heard and read good things about B W Chiptuning in Uxbridge never used them personally Google them and talk to them Dave

Hi Stu If its Petrol it will have a throttle body assembly with integrated position sensor. If its Diesel it will have the AGR assembly and fuel pressure sensor along with all the associated vacuum lines. Not sure but I think the AGR has a TPS integrated as I am not a diesel driver What ever he should get a diagnostic check to save some pain to his wallet

Hi David As the car has clearly suffered some serious transmission failure at some time there could be diff problems further down the line. If she has the Finance Company on board then rejecting the car is probably the best move as even if the complete transmission was changed her confidence in the car wont be there. Good Luck which ever way you choose to go Dave

Morning Yanai Welcome to the Forum Sounds like a failing throttle body, you need a diagnostic session to confirm exactly what the issue. Dave

Hi Dale Welcome to the Forum I have read of many instances where people have fitted new door carriers that don't last genuine is the way to go. Assuming the carrier is OK then the the door catch actuator is the next part in the chain. Again assuming the cables are fitted and seated correctly Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum That looks as though it has had some serious surgery at some point. I would check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model. In view of the welding I would check that the gearbox is correct. I believe the box should be a ZF manufactured so I would search ZF Repair Centers and ZF specialists Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Morning Ethan Welcome to the Forum Your searching for a classic without much information?? Without a Reg Number or Vin Number I fear it is an uphill task. If you have a Reg Number try searching https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ it will tell you if the car is MOT'd or Sorned, that will be a good clue as to whether it is still around. Then contact DVLA don't know if that will help much but worth a go. As it is/was LHD there is always the possibility it was returned to the Continent. Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning John Depending on which model you a remap can make a huge difference or not a lot. If you have the 4.8 normally aspirated petrol engine then around 5 to 10% increase in power. Forced induction 3.0d (turbo charged) respond better with up to 30%+ increases in HP and Torque with just a re-map Remember the engine needs to be in good condition prior to tuning or you are wasting your hard earned. If the engine and turbo are in good condition and well maintained then with other changes Induction and exhaust huge outputs can be reached Just make sure you (A) find a reputable tuner, not one who just remaps and goes without checking the engine is fit for tuning. Get references. (B) If you can get your car on a rolling road (not easy with a 4x4) so you have a before and after comparison. BW Chip tuning in Uxbridge had a very good reputation with BMW's (never used them but read great things) Good Luck Dave.

Hi Glyn Welcome to the Forum Is there not a key release above the number plate somewhere?? As for your issue never heard of anything like it before I am afraid. First step would be getting into the boot disconnect the battery and charge it (if it will take a charge) Once fully charged and with the boot open reconnect and if possible run a diagnostic check. If you don't have diagnostics then pull all the fuses before connecting the battery, then replace one at a time laborious but a way of finding the faulty circuit. Hope this helps Dave

Ni Jim Has the Diff been checked for Oil ? Many cars get the engine serviced on a regular basis but often the Diff and Gearbox are completely forgotten. Seals wear, gaskets fail allowing oil to seep out, so I would certainly get it checked. Dave

Congratulations Trevor I like the new Site update subtle and modern Dave

Morning Duncan That will do it, Yorkshire is as far North as I go these days. Mine were brought when I was doing some work in Germany years back as a legal requirement Good Luck with the Hunt Dave

Hi Duncan Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online Parts List. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the Search Box it will bring up your model then check wheels and tyre options. For my X5 I kept an eye on that well known auction site and found a set of 255x50x18 wheels and winter tyres, though in truth I have used them once in the last 5 years as it's just not been cold enough here in Sussex Good luck with the hunt Dave

Welcome to the Forum Lee Sounds like you have done some work ?? Check the sensor and its wiring a BMW specific Diagnostic Program would help. Lambda sensors are pretty easy to check with a multi meter but if the valve timing is out the lambda doesn't stand a chance. From memory you have an Actuator (valvetronic), 2 camshaft sensors and a Solenoid valve for the actuator Good Luck finishing it off Dave

Hi Mike Welcome to the Forum Nice choice of car The only reason to use OEM parts is to protect any warranty?? You have no reason to be concerned about aftermarket parts many these days are at least equal in quality to OEM, and many better. Poly Bushes for the suspension, drive shafts, wheel bearings, springs and shocks the list goes on. If you are not aware www.realoem.com is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the applications. Once you have the part numbers you can cross reference them with "after market" suppliers so you get the correct parts. 5 years ago I brought a pair of front drive shafts for my 4.6is X5 £250 for the pair, fitted fine and still good after 40k miles Your fat wallet won't stay that way for long if you are a slave to "originality" you could change drive shafts annually for 10 years before you get to BMW Dealers cost Good Luck Enjoy Dave

Morning J Welcome to the Forum Lots of stuff at the front that rotates, Water pump, Alternator, Power Steering Pump with their tensioner on one side. AC pump and tensioner on the other. It isn't a difficult job more fiddly, I would remove the belts (alternator first) and run the engine if the noise is gone then check the bearings on the Alternator, Water Pump and Power Steering. Rotate by hand they should feel smooth no movement in out and sideways. Don't forget the Tensioner wheel that can be noisy to. If the noise is still there with the Alternator belt removed you have narrowed it down to either the AC compressor or the Tensioner that side. Remember we change engine oil at regular intervals (well I hope we do) but these small bearings are whizzing around relying only on their own self lubed bearings! Everything has a life Good Luck Dave

Crazy some of these sales people!! Now we are in lockdown he/she will probably regret loosing a sale for £2k that they could have offset against all sorts of internal things. Hey Ho their loss hang onto your Hard Earned another deal will come up Dave.

Morning Liam Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. It is an online parts list with small exploded drawings that should help Dave