Greydog

Morning Gail If you look at my last post the PelicanParts web site address is there. They have a great "How To" section with pictures plus I have been told by friends in the US very helpful on the phone. There are also the other Web address's I put up for part numbers and technical information. Yes the LCM is located in the footwell so could be called the Footwel module. As your battery is dead (cancel your Gym membership) get it checked before deciding whether to change it or charge it. BMW's react badly to low Battery voltages, so I would remove any "Jumper wires" or any other "clever Mods" replace with new the Relay which should put every thing back to as it should be. Then (no Gym membership required) replace the battery with a fully charged or new one, get all the fault codes cleared and try to start the car. Any faults returning will point you towards the issue/issues. If the Lights issue is one it will point at the LCM being fried. As your obviously an independent girl take a look online for BMW 1.4.0 or ISTA/INPA they are diagnostic programs you can load on a laptop they are not expensive and will save you a fortune. Dave

Afternoon John First what tyres are fitted?? This is important your car is Xdrive if the tyres do not match across axles or front to rear it will cause transmission wind up this in turn will damage the Centre transfer box and eventually first the rear and/or front differential. This not a BMW issue ALL 4x4 vehicles have it. If you turn off the engine after driving and here a clicking sound from under the car that is the transfer box protesting as it tries to reset, if you reverse slowly on full lock and you feel snatching/jerking that is a very unhappy xdrive system. A new diff (Front or Rear) will be around £900 + Fitting a Transfer box can be repaired there are several specialists but still not cheap. A complete set of tyres will be cheaper. I stress all 4 tyres should be at about the same tread depth from the same manufacturer with the same tread pattern, preferably " * " marked on the side wall. If they aren't then you have an issue that will just get worse if it hasn't caused to much damage already. Inside the transfer case is a nylon gear that adjusts torque front to rear, if tyre rolling radius doesn't match front/rear and across axles that gear can be stripped producing a clicking sound Sorry to say the previous owner may have known Dave

Morning John If you haven't had it very long and it's a worry back to the dealer and ask? Dave

Morning Gail Your BMW has a large number of control modules (around 20 from memory) many look after simple local functions others (the important ones) the operation of the car. The critical ones share information, if one isn't talking then nothing works as it should. The LCM (Light Control Module) is one of them it controls/communicates with the engine control (DME) gearbox control (DTC) cluster control (IKE) plus a few more (I am trying to keep it simple) while doing its own job You need a competent mechanic (not someone who thinks he can hot wire it) with a BMW specific diagnostic computer if you can't do it your self. The starter is under the car so reached from below not above. I am guessing your in the USA so try looking at www.pelicanparts.com they have great "how to" sections and I am sure be very helpful on the phone. Dave

Hi Grizelda Welcome to the Forum Overheating assuming you don't have a leak and fluid levels are correct, is normally either thermostat, or auxiliary fan related if your aircon is working so should the auxiliary fan. The auxiliary fan provides additional cooling when either the aircon is on or extreme conditions such as heavy traffic Get your engine driven fan checked and the auxiliary fan plus the thermostat. Dave

Hi Ben Were the lights there before? Did you disconnect the battery or leave the ignition on for a length of time while changing sensors. Have you actually driven the car? Try driving forward and backwards going lock to lock. Or disconnect the battery again leave for 30 mins then reconnect. Dave

Morning Gail Welcome to the Forum Simple question WHY those relays are available at any Factor or Halfords why not just swap it??? Now you have a host of issues not least that possibly the LCM module may be fried and new that isn't cheap. If buying second hand make sure the part number is correct. You need someone (Garage or friend) with a BMW diagnostic program to read the codes. If the starter is suspect a decent electrician can check it with a multi meter easily, But a no crank no start situation needs diagnostics to save throwing money at it (but you may have to now) Use www.realoem.com to find part numbers just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model Also use www.newtis.info to get wiring diagrams and how to's that may help with any repairs Good Luck Dave

Hi Ian Just did a quick google www.onlineautomotive.co.uk might have what you want Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Could be part of the re-circulation systems for cooling turbo etc? I have to say I have not heard this before so that is a guess Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum My sons friend just brought the same part, then they used my garage and tools (tea, coffee, beer) to fit it He brought it from Bosal (BMW OEM Supplier) using the BMW part number think it was around £150 from memory Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the Vin number in the search box to bring up the model, then search for the part number you need. Then cross reference against after market suppliers. I am sure you can find what you need at a sensible cost Good Luck Dave

Hi Matt No need for clutch just position 2 if the relay or fuel pump are on the way out or intermittent it will give it time to build pressure 30 secs should be enough and see if it will then start. If you are not aware here are a couple of site s that may help. www.realoem.com a BMW parts site put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Makes sure you have the correct part numbers if buying stuff. www.newtis.info a BMW Technical Information site BMW Dealers use the same information. Dave

Morning Matt If you buy a Diagnostic Tool make sure it is BMW Specific as a Generic tester will give some codes but wont see all the modules and sensors. Something like ISTA/INPA or BMW 1.4.0, they can save you a lot. With out diagnostics I am guessing but the problem you have (but here goes) First check the Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump relay try turning the ignition to position 2 but don't start. Listen for the fuel pump after about 30 secs try a start if it fires but stutters my guess is fuel pump or relay or both. It could be injector related or injector loom related, it could be a sensor on its way. As you can see without diagnostics you could end up throwing money at the problem. My best guess money stays with fuel pump or relay Good Luck Dave

They don't need any other proof of how aged I am just date of birth 1943 was a Vintage year 🤣

Morning Siddhartha Welcome to the Forum Your X3 is fitted with a front and rear diffs connected through a transfer box at the back of the gearbox. The diffs front and rear have no pump attached so the fact that you say you can hear something running I would suspect the following as suspects. (1) air re-circulation fans and auxiliary water pump which can run for 5 mins after shut down to protect the turbo. (2) If you have rear air suspension the pump can run to maintain pressure it will normally only run up to the point the car goes to sleep. If it is running for 5 mins I would suspect a leak, the suspension pump is in the boot. Dave

Morning Bruce Welcome Back Getting older !! We may get older and wiser but there are no rules on growing up !! Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Hi Tim Welcome to the Forum A short time ago the BMW 3 series with the straight 6 engines came out as the most reliable by far. The F30/F31/F34 2011 to 2019 right up to 330i are 4 cylinder with turbo the 335i is 6 cylinder and is the one voted most reliable. My personal choice would be the six cylinder in either flavour (Diesel or Petrol) both are silky smooth the diesel obviously returning better MPG. Good Luck with the search Dave

Hi John Sorry to hear you have suffered at the hands of one of the Clumsy brigade, we can only hope that they suffer a similar event. A decent body shop will be able to do a scratch repair without it costing the earth Dave

Morning Ben There are 2 parts inner and outer that hold the sensor in place see the attached exploded drawing items 5 and 6 they just clip together then the sensor slides in from the rear. The inner rear sensor holders I have had to change due to them cracking at the bottom (narrow point) fortunately they are easy to get to being close to the tow bar cover. Good Luck Dave

Top Man 😁

Morning Trey They are out there old Alpina's and the like If you are the type who loves working on your car you can achieve amazing things. I have seen an E91 530d with 400hp and 950nm torque mid range acceleration that makes M5 owners weep plus 30mpg. What gets missed is the money and hours invested an M5 would have cost less 😁 How ever what the owner has is unique and it's his, who knows one day it will turn up as a barn find

That will get the job done ☺️

Good News Andy When looking at realoem and newtis if there are any "extension or connection looms" needed you will see where they are and what the part number is. As an example my X5 had a Motorola phone in the arm rest I converted to Bluetooth which is straight forward but needed an extension loom and eject box which were easy to find (Ebay) and easy to fit "Plug and play". With the diagnostic program it isn't just fault finding you can register stuff to the chassis if needed as well as turning on functions that BMW leave turned off and would obviously charge for. Dave

Hi Davvid Who replaced the battery? it may need registering to the car or it may not charge correctly You can do it using ISTA Dave

Hi Andy Welcome to the forum Have you cross checked part numbers as trim parts often are used in several models if you aren't aware www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the vin in the search box and check part numbers. I would also check out www.newtis.info to look for howto's as it is a BMW technical site Dealer level information. Both sites have exploded drawings so you should get/see all the information you need. On a 2006 model most of the harness should be in place with only heater switches needed and plugged in again the lumber adjustment are the seats electric adjustment? if the plugs are there then you probably need fuses and relays As the original seats had airbags disconnecting the battery should throw lights on re connection When I got the BMW I brought BMW 1.4.0 a diagnostic program which I keep on an old laptop it allows me to do lots of stuff and keep the old girl up to date. Dave

Hi Muhammad Welcome to the Forum If the belt is not fitted correctly it can slip fray or come off completely. If that happens and it catches other stuff it could become a lot more expensive than just a belt and tensioner. I have seen a frayed belt that destroyed the aircon pump so fix sooner than later is my advice Dave