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Posts posted by Bimmer Owners Club
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21 hours ago, Stupidmia said:
I have since noticed the rear tyre wear would suggest a bit of camber in the wheel alignment, as they seem to wear more across the surface from outer to inner edges!!! Is this common for these cars? Or do I need to get something adjusted? Tbf though, I would say it’s a mm difference from one end to other, so maybe not massive!!!
1Since noticing your response and statement of tyre wear, I would wholeheartedly agree with Dave's comment about worn bushes and misalignment of the rear wheels.
In general, the camber could alter and marginally affect the tyre scrub but if the rear toe is out then this would grossly affect tyre scrub which could explain the uneven wear across the tyre and also the excessive wear on the whole of the tread.
Can only recommend taking to a 'reputable' firm that not only has the pucker equipment (Hunter) and also the personnel sufficiently trained in carrying out the checks (e.g. starting with any adjustments at the rear first).
Maybe worth dropping it in before bush replacement (If necessary) and get some figures to confirm the tyre wear and then drop back for any required adjustments following repair. -
it's more than likely to do with water dispersal...method used to shift the water from between the road surface and beneath the tyres
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Sounds like it is due to power being delivered through the rear wheels as opposed to any abrasive road surfaces or similar...if that was the case then the fronts would also be worn the same as the rear as they've done the same distance.
However, it is not making the assumption, as you have already stated, that it is your driving style, more a case of somehow the power delivery being more aggressive than it should be?
I know this is the case with motorcycle tyres where you can rip a rear tyre up in just 2k to 3k miles with too much of a handful on the throttle.Therefore, I wonder if there is an issue with the drivetrain programming which could be causing this issue?....just a thought.
Technically, you should have the same rolling circumference on all the tyres to run with the X Drive
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Hi William....welcome to the Forum
Hopefully, there should be a supply of these parts on eBay but you are welcome to place an advert in the For Sale / Wanted section of this forum, which may get some responses.
Good to have you onboard
Cheers, Trevor
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Glad your car is sorted now Maggie and also that it wasn't too expensive in the end.
On 9/28/2018 at 12:34 PM, Greydog said:Our pleasure Maggie, the object of the Forum is always to have pool of knowledge for us all to fish for answers in
1Great analogy Dave....will have to remember that one 🙂
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Hi David.....welcome to the Club
I suppose if the garage were to keep all the original ancillaries (including injectors) and move them across to the new engine then nothing will need coding in after replacement.
Let us know how this unfolds, good luck with it all
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi Maggie....welcome to the Club
I totally agree with Dave's diagnosis of the Servo or vacuum line attached to it.
Also, if it has a Diesel engine then I would also look at the exhauster (vacuum pump) to see if that is performing efficiently.Let us know how you get on with it all
Cheers, Trevor
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I would be tempted to wait and see what occurs then deal with it
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Hi Ritch....welcome to the Club
I have found this on Honda models with keyless fob and turned out to be the buttons being pressed when in trouser pocket, for example.
Also, with auto-window-drop it may be worth disabling this function in the vehicle settings, at least the windows will stay up.
Maybe also worth considering a Faraday pouch to see if it is the key fob that is triggering the unlocking...remember, you may have two keys.
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great information Dave....I'm after some newer scan tools as my set is the old round plug models that still work on my Z3 but has limited data through the K-line.
Will probably give the v1.4.0 a try if you rate it and at that price it's worth a punt.
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Hi Christopher....welcome to the Club
There are so many out there....here's a couple of links for the cheaper ones, which although they do work for pulling out codes and cancelling them down, they do lack a lot of other functions.
This one seems quite good, although I haven't tried it but it boasts quite a few features: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MVDIAG-BLUETOOTH-USB-CAR-DIAGNOSTIC-OBD-SCANNER-AUDI-BMW-SKODA-VW-MERCEDE/263529694166?hash=item3d5b9803d6:g:2OUAAOSwcaFZEMnd
This one I can vouch for and is a great piece of kit for the money https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LATEST-ICARSOFT-BMM-V2-0-BMW-MINI-OBD2-CAR-DIAGNOSTIC-FAULT-CODE-SCANNER-TOOL/283009962052?epid=21018638200&hash=item41e4b55044:g:ufQAAOSwH9tbSjzt
Let us know how you get on and what you end up buying
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Hi Steve,...welcome to the Club
Not sure but first thoughts are the phone may be in 'Driving Mode' which blocks texts, etc when it knows you are driving.
Let us know what you find out
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi Rich....welcome to the Club
Good to have you onboard and feel free to post up a piccy of your 320 Sport if you would like to
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi AJ....welcome to the Club
Hope someone gets back to you shortly, sorry can't comment personally on the pro's and con's but I would be tempted to talk to a few tuning specialists who could (hopefully impartially) give you advice on either stage 1 or 2
Let us know how it all goes
Cheers, Trevor
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post some pics up of the event if you like
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Hi Stu...welcome to the Club
Looks like you've picked up a great car there....worth spending the money on by the sound of it.
Not 100% sure for BMW's but I would use a parts website (Eurocarparts or similar) and see if a DMF is listed for it.
If there is the option of both, then I think it is a case of finding out once you have the gearbox down.
Don's think there is any other way of telling by driving (unless its knackered and it will rattle on start up and shut down)
Let us know how you get on with it
Cheers, Trevor
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Usually, any event that is held at the British Motor Museum is a great day out as plenty to see in the Museum (especially if it is raining) and vast areas to park up without worry of being squeezed in too tight
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Hi Patrick
The pad replacement period is calculated from when it is reset (if it is done properly) and then the miles count down.
The wear rate obviously depends on how the car is driven so the replacement period is only an estimate but I would err on the side of caution and look to get them replaced as soon as possible, along with the discs (if required).
I also would recommend a good independent repairer as should be cheaper than the dealership. Ensure they reset the interval on the dash and it should not affect the warranty as long as parts of equal quality have been fitted inline with correct fitting procedures.
However, spend as much as you can afford on decent pads as I find I am replacing cheap pads at an alarming rate due to poor performance so as the old saying goes 'you get what you pay for'
Let us know how you get on with it all
Cheers, Trevor
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Great event but too far for me 😞
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Thanks Daniel....look forward to reading it later
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The clips would be cheap and I don't suppose it would damage the trim if you ripped it off and fitted new clips
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Hi Kieran...welcome to the Club
Wow!!! that's a stunning looking Z4....you've done some great mods to her, especially the roof panel
Good to have you onboard
Cheers, Trevor
Xdrive rear tyre excessive wear!!!!
in BMW 3 Series Forum
Posted
Firstly, I would not go to anywhere that isn't recommended by others or that specifically deal with Wheel Alignment....Protyre are one such company that are well versed (and trained) in 4 Wheel Laser Alignment.
The bushes are difficult to diagnose when only marginally worn but if the alignment shows it to be out on the rear suspension and you haven't slammed into any kerbs then chances are the bushes are worn.
Finally, I would not imagine that BMW would entertain bushes under warranty as they would be classed as 'wear and tear' but worth a try I suppose
Cheers, Trevor