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Morning Damion I would say yes to the software update (but a Dealer will charge £££) this should be in iDrive try My Vehicle, Vehicle Settings, Doors/Key, then scroll down to mirrors and check Fold Mirrors when Locked If that doesn't work you need help from someone with a BMW capable diagnostic package (ISTA/INPA) to check if it is in a hidden menu. Be aware BMW are making it harder and harder to tinker with the cars mainly after 2019 year so you should be OK Dave

I would guess £500 + + from a Dealer so not exactly dear if yours isn't working 😁 Check www.reaoem.com either search by Vin number then through the sections or by the Part number you have. If you aren't aware double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates. Then check the normal Auction sites but don't forget there is a healthy BMW Specialist dismantler network they may help Dave

You will become our go to man for Diesel fuel systems 🤣🤣 Fuel pressure sensor on the HPFP is just about all that is left Dave

Morning Alex Welcome to the Forum I would start with a careful back track of all work carried out a PITA I know but the only way to be certain each part is OK. Run fuel off after the filter through a Coffee filter paper that will show any metallic swarf if there is any (fingers crossed) Check the rail pressure sensor "O" ring I have seen one with a split that was causing similar issues to those you are getting I believe there is a Bleed sequence in ISTA (never had to use it myself) has that been followed? Still a diesel virgin myself so feeling my way here Dave

It’s with deep regrets, but I need to sell my BMW z3 2.8 Orinoco this is being advertised on eBay. The car is in very good condition, for its age, I would like to keep it for a lot longer , But I have too many vehicles around me, if you need more information, please let me know

OK, further installment. Many thanks to Greydog for the input. Non cranking has been getting worse and I ordered the BMW part to replace the defective relay as noted above. It was located exactly where you said it was but....... When you open the flap to access the fuses box area at the back of the glove box you first need to lift out the raised plate that sits on the glove box tray to the rear of the glove box. This allows said flap to fully lower. I had a little play and found a press/pull up slat on the back side of said plate, located exactly in the middle. This releases the plate and allows the fuse box flap to lower fully providing access. Changing the relays is just a pull out/press in fitting. There are two lugs on the sides of the relay, one lower and one higher, which correspond to the guides in the fuse box itself so you cant put it in the wrong way around. Typical BMW........... Car started straight away and I am hoping that is the matter sorted. A £16.85 fix and a bit of research to boot. This really is a very good forum to be part of.

Afternoon Andrea My bet would be the Slip Spring behind the steering wheel is at fault. A diagnostic would confirm if you have access to BMW 1.4.0 or similar (not expensive to buy and worth its weight) Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then look at the Steering section, the small exploded drawing will give clues to what fits where plus there will be part numbers that ensure you get the correct part for your model if replacing it is required. Also if you double click the part number it should give a list of any alternatives available Good luck with the fix Dave

Wait until they add AI and the damn things start thinking for themselves 🤣🤣🤣 Can't wait 😂 Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hope it's back with you quickly and you get to drive it again soon Dave

Morning Fawad Welcome to the Forum Oh dear bit of a Saga First your questions 1. BMW do not make Turbos they buy them in, as a Company BMW do not repair anything they simply change New part for Old at the Clients expense hence the ££££ cost. As BMW found no sign of leaks to the loom I would challenge the Warranty Company as it is not an Injector fault 2. Garrett are one of the oldest turbo manufacturers ( around since the early 50's) they have been around longer than BMW have been fitting turbos to their cars? So a Garrett Turbo is at least as good (possibly better) as OEM quality depending on it's source. As your Warranty is not in place I would get a good independent to change the turbo or at least its actuator BMW have washed their hands anyway Good Luck Dave

Thanks Dave, I'm not counting down the days just yet! 🙃

Hi Dave, good Morning My car has been fully serviced since new by BMW and I have 31000 on the clock. Still getting 41.9 mpg

Morning Chris The Reverse Camera may have disturbed the Video feed fingers crossed replacing it will sort the issue. Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins Neg first (a Dealer trick) it will reset any simple fault codes Good Luck Dave

Thanks Dave ,I'll look it up.Cheers and Happy motoring

Wishing Everyone a Peaceful and Restful Christmas and a Brilliant 2024 Dave

Merry Christmas Dave and all the rest! thank you for all your help and knowledge and words of encouragement throughout the year. All the best for the new year and I’ll see you in 2024.

Like most of the electronics and accessories on your car BMW don't make it they buy it in OEM sensors are I believe made by HUF and are not as expensive as they are when packed in a BMW Box 🤣 The biggest cost/pain is the tyre has to come off to change them that is why when one failed on my E70 I waited for Tyre change time then did all 4 Dave

Morning Tarquin Welcome to the Forum (almost) Most cars now have an extra storage compartment under the boot floor these days where the spare used to live. Not sure about your comment about a raised boot floor unless the car had a sliding floor for easy loading Not sure what dogs you have but I have 5 HPR pointers and while I have an X5 my wife has a Subaru Outback and our daughter has a BMW 320d touring. All 5 are fine in the X5 4 are comfortable in the Subaru or the 3 series (The boot is around the same size height in both) Maybe look at a 5 series Touring, good hunting Dave

Happy birthday to my X5! …. Not me… I’m waaay past that. born today in 2002!

Morning Craig A few things First when you charge or Jump a BMW make sure it is at the charge points under the bonnet or remove the battery from the car if you don't you can cause damage. Your battery is dead I am afraid 9-10v after charging a healthy battery should show 12.5 to 12.8v around 14v + with engine running. It is that time of year mine died yesterday morning 🤔 Dave

Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box. That will bring up your model then search the Trim Section Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum I guess your price is from your BMW Dealer ? Not a problem I have ever had to deal with but I did read some time ago about a company "Toponline.com" worth a Google search. Apparently they make roof seals and repair kits. If I recall they are an American based outfit but they seem to have a good reputation You could also look at specialist dismantlers like Quarry Motors Good Luck Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum We love enthusiastic engineers and as the years catch up ( the big 80 is close) you just need to add a couple of new tools to the kit, a couple of younger bendier sons and a really helpful 13 year old Granddaughter who's hands fit where mine no longer seem to 🤣🤣 Nice collection of BMW's ENJOY Dave

Hi Jitendra The best rated front/rear dash cam currently is Thinkware about £200 and recommended by Camera website Viofo A119 V3 - RECOMMENDED. Buy now from Amazon (£99.59) There are always offerings by Nextbase who were one of the originals in the market The price from your Independent seems really fair remember BMW do not make these they have them made badged and boxed so when you add the Dealers mark up and around £200 p/hour labour rate it isn't difficult to get to their price Me I would DIY if that is beyond your skill set use the Independent Dave

Yeh, that's not too dissimilar to mine when driven around town and put under hard acceleration. Motorway is definitely better and can achieve high 30's at a slightly slower pace than everyone else Also, if you have the autobox version then this would traditionally return lower MPG than a manual (seems to be the other way now with modern autoboxes)

Have a set in great condition for sale . Tyres legal tread Pilot sports but micro cracks on tread , the wheels have no marks or damage . Have heard they are desirable , I would keep but I prefer my M3 style ones now. Im Midlands UK, just putting it out there in case any interest. Need to find what they worth , could put pics on soon

Hi Nkanyiso Welcome to the Forum There is a Register of Independent BMW Specialist check the lists you should find help there I would start with basics check all vacuum lines and the inlet for any air leaks, then the Vanos solenoids. Then check carefully the loom that feeds the coil packs for any signs of rubbing and chaffing. Repeat with the loom for the injectors, a misfire can be fuel or spark related If that is beyond you then check out the specialists register Good Luck Dave

High Stev Welcome to the Forum No one can diagnose a problem without investigating it, It could be anything from water ingress to a faulty unit I am afraid the only way is check and test all connections Dave

Hi Mark I think the fact that one of his customers has decided not to as it isn't Lane Assist and it bothered them tells you it probably would throw a code. Having said that I guess you could turn off Lane Assist or code it out My feeling is anything fitted should work if not it could have an effect on any Sale/Trade In price Just my thoughts Dave

SeanC I apologise for not responding sooner. I missed your post and won't bore you with excuses. I've not followed up on the smoking issue - the transfer box replacement knocked a hole in my budget so I'm holding fire on what might be an expensive turbo fix. I did talk to a non dealership BMW bloke and he mentioned turbo,valve seals, etc,but without taking the car in he couldn't be sure. Again, I'm sorry for leaving you hanging. R

Hi Dave Thanks for the link onto the parts site. Got me baffled. The old part I have is as shown on the diagram on the parts site. Sadly the end I want to see on the diagram is the end I can't see. I'm fresh back from a weeks holiday and the car has stayed pumped up over that time which is a result. Clearly there won't be a lot of air demand through the pipe. I've tried negotiating with the Mrs but after what I did to her tights when an old fan belt snapped she wasn't best receptive. As you suggest I'm going to cobble a small mesh filter and fix it to the pipe. Thanks for your help. cheers Mike

Morning Ted Welcome to the Forum If you are determined enough you can achieve anything, the question would be how practical it would be. As I understand it Petrol cars need to Euro 4 compliant or better Diesels Euro 6 or better. So if you can find an F70 2007 to 2013 4.8 petrol it will (or should be) ULEZ compliant. The Diesels I am not so sure as I have a couple of acquaintances who's F70's have been shown as none compliant. As a broad stroke 2015 or later for Diesel So back to your question if you upgraded the engine, emissions controls and probably a whole load of stuff I haven't thought of. Then took on the battle with TFL to get the car accepted as emissions compliant? At the moment they work on Registration/Year of Manufacture not actual emission output. I think cost would outweigh the cars value making it cheaper to trade it for something compliant. If you really want to stay with the F70 then the 4.8 is the answer if you find a low mileage model with the M-tec body kit brilliant. Hope this helps Dave

Hey @Greydog Thank you for your suggestion, it is very useful to me

Hi, I fitted a new cap on the crank case breather and I have driven it for 2 days now and have tried to get it to smoke and it seems to have cured the problem! I am wondering if it would be sensible to fit a complete new breather and is there an updated one. The steering rack would appear to be electric as there are no hydraulic pipes, nor is there a power steering pump or top up tank, what I do notice is there is at least 2 universal joints on the steering column which I will lubricate. I will keep you updated. thanks Paneuro.

Morning Ryan Sounds like a good buy Use google for test parameters for the sensors you should be able to check them with a multi-meter Fingers crossed it's the simple fix ENJOY Dave

👍 Very Nice ENJOY Dave

Well ?? Come on Matt did you love it or hate it Dave

Morning Matt As with any second user car History History History not just Service but Recalls and MOT MOT will show if any advisories have been attended to Then make sure that everything works as it should make sure the Deal includes a good Warranty. If all is good then part with your hard earned and enjoy your BEEMER Dave

Morning Markus Sorry that isn't a code it is only the cars display warning. To begin with have the fuses been checked? Check the fuses if they are OK then you need a proper diagnostic session to identify the problem. I have seen 1 failed trailer control unit and 2 failed gears in the folding motors (one on my own X5) All 3 I was able to fix by sourcing replacement a replacement control unit, and stripping and rebuilding the folding motors. Dave

Morning Rick Not sure what equipment they are using but I do know that downloading and then uploading to the car for even some of the more basic programs can take a few hours. So my guess would be they start an upload and then do other stuff, then check on progress if the program required an action obviously everything stops until the action is taken. As a garage they clearly have to schedule the downloads around other work to ensure the best use of time. Good Luck sounds like it's almost done Dave

So here goes: Very first car and others: Triumph Herald 1200 (12/50), white sunshine roof and red seats TR6 x 3 Porsche 924 Turbo Range Rover P38 Jaguar XJ x4(XJ40, X300 & 2 x 308X) Daimler Super V8 LWB Sabb 900 cab Volvo V70 Mini one Range Rover L322 BMW 120i E88 ------ Wife's cars Morris Marina Citroen Diana (2CV) Golf cab Series 1 Golf Cab new version

Morning It seems you have been very lucky You need to check all drain holes they have small rubber flaps that can get blocked with leaves and stuff over time to make sure your engine bay doesn't get flooded again. Change the oil and check carefully for signs of water in the oil and filter also worth changing the fuel filter as well Good Luck Dave

Morning Markus Welcome to the Forum All clean underneath nothing jamming it ? What is the Error Code ? Have you checked it online ? I would check all wiring and connections, fuses and relays, then make sure that the mechanism isn't blocked or jammed then clear the code and see if it works. A diagnostic session will help if your stuck Dave

Been a while, just for an update, I fitted the other 'cylindrical' style of sensor that realoem specified and it's working great now. Not sure whether the other 'wedge' style was just faulty and a coincidence but the cylindrical one worked for me. Thanks again Dave for all the help, really appreciate it.

Morning Rick Welcome to the Forum Well some one has to pay for the free coffee 😅 At the bottom of this issue is the fact that BMW do not repair anything? They replace components at their client/customers expense (they are not alone in this approach). If examined your ECU will have a corroded pin or a dry joint or two due to the failure they also want to change any component that communicates through the ECU like your ISM. Early cars used to suffer FCM (footwell control module) failures BMW's answer New FCM and it can only be done by BMW as it has to be programmed to the car/chassis. There is no "programming" as such it is registering the module to the chassis to avoid getting a "tamper dot" beside the mileage figure. As you have already seen it isn't that hard to do if you have the right tools. First source a matching set of ECU and ISM (used to be ECU and EWS) from a BMW Dismantler use www.realoem.com to get the correct part numbers for your model. Also buy a copy of BMW ISTA/INPA (preferred) diagnostic suit or a good BMW capable diagnostic that will allow program/registration changes. With ISTA/INPA (the one I use) you can interrogate individual modules so first make a note of any information you can take from your existing ECU/ISM modules Serial numbers/chassis/ Vin numbers and mileage, BMW store mileage in 2 or 3 places/modules and they need to match (anti theft) Then it is a case of fitting the replacement parts and editing the Chassis information and mileage. Remember BMW do not make these parts they buy them in and rely on the fact that the vast majority of customers are frightened to even lift the Bonnet (oops Hood) educated to only respond to instructions on the cars screen 🤣 Once you have the diagnostics there is so much more you can learn about your car ISTA is complete with TIS (technical information system) and WIS (Workshop information system) Good Luck Dave

Thanks Dave, wise words 😉 The car also needed seals and bearings in the rear diff- this had nothing to do with the original fault , and I had the oil changed in the front diff. I don't think she was particularly well cared for. So now its back to the smoking exhaust issue I was banging on about in another thread ! Rod

At least your back up and running, and on the plus side the car will feel quicker now your Wallet is so much lighter 🤣🤣

Morning Bruce I will assume the Battery is correct and in good condition. You need to spend some time testing "pulling fuses" then check with a multi meter to isolate systems and find the culprit. If you are not able or prepared to do that then you may find out why some say BMW stands for Breaks My Wallet 😆 If your stuck try and find a good Auto Electrician but remember tracing something like this is time consuming and time at an hourly rate adds up, whoever it is doing the work Dave

Hi Chris If you aren't aware look at www.realoem.com (BMW Parts List) put the last 7 digits of your Vin in to the search box it will call up your model. Then search the brake section if you double click the part number it should show any alternative Part Numbers and Models they were used in An alternative I have used on a 325i that had a handbrake not holding because the teeth on the quadrant had worn was 15mins with the welder and a file to build up and reshape the worn teeth. 3 years later it is still working fine (our Sons friend) Stu is right about Quarry Motors but if they can't help try Googling BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are about half a dozen from memory worth an email or two Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum What a great choice of car like the 1960's Jaguar advert they truly have "Grace, Pace and Space". ENJOY Dave