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Hi all

After buying my new 535d 2005 I’ve been getting light failure warning lights for every light. The front and rear lights have been changed to different units of unknown origin. All the lights work apart from front sidelights. Non on either side work. 
 

The rears all work fine but I drive says they don’t. On the fronts however there has been some retrofitting previous. I assume for xenons but the lights definitely don’t look like xenons. There are wires hanging about everywhere behind the lights and also a red and black wire actually coming out between the headlight cover and the unit. It’s not been a very good job. 
 

Anyone give me a starting place? Can I just replace for normal lights that would have been on the car? 
 

Thanks in advance

k

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Hi Kenny

Sounds a bit of a nightmare 

First stop if you are not already aware should be www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Check the lighting section and find the part numbers for your car, if you double click the part number it will bring up a list of alternate models/types if they were available. I think it would only be E60/61 or may the LCI model which came in at the end of 2005

It is possible that someone has tried to upgrade to LED which if they don't have a diode in line will throw the lamp failure warnings. 

Just had a quick look at the listing for E60 which should come with Bi-Xenon lights as standard (you wont get much better) or Bi-Xenon Adaptive Part numbers are Bi-Xenon left 63127160195 right 63127160196 or Adaptive Bi-Xenon left 63127160151 right 63127160152 

Looking at Realoem it seems some headlamp assemblies while from E60/61 models are not a direct exchange so the part numbers on your fitted units would help solve the issue

if you can take some pics it may help

Hope this helps 

Dave

 

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On 7/3/2021 at 2:45 PM, Greydog said:

Hi Kenny

Sounds a bit of a nightmare 

First stop if you are not already aware should be www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list. Put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your model. Check the lighting section and find the part numbers for your car, if you double click the part number it will bring up a list of alternate models/types if they were available. I think it would only be E60/61 or may the LCI model which came in at the end of 2005

It is possible that someone has tried to upgrade to LED which if they don't have a diode in line will throw the lamp failure warnings. 

Just had a quick look at the listing for E60 which should come with Bi-Xenon lights as standard (you wont get much better) or Bi-Xenon Adaptive Part numbers are Bi-Xenon left 63127160195 right 63127160196 or Adaptive Bi-Xenon left 63127160151 right 63127160152 

Looking at Realoem it seems some headlamp assemblies while from E60/61 models are not a direct exchange so the part numbers on your fitted units would help solve the issue

if you can take some pics it may help

Hope this helps 

Dave

 

Hi Dave

Thanks very much for the reply. I’ve put the vin details in that site but it gives me the option of halogen and xenon. Not sure what should be on my car? Is there another way to tell?

I’ve attached a couple of pics of the lights. They look like aftermarket angel ones? There are loads of wires and plugs everywhere. It’s a very messy job from whoever has done it!

D651BC66-2E35-4B8E-85E1-FDC42134DE33.thumb.jpeg.0ffd116d558c1e83dddb53bd91361e02.jpeg 
 

77C779B8-2D57-4070-939F-5749839A75E3.thumb.jpeg.80695f310f4bfbba8ee017afd2486dfc.jpeg

 

E4C18B7E-A693-4EFD-B463-F7C038B5F501.thumb.jpeg.6666e6fdf4873cacd5e9839aa0aa1564.jpeg

The rears are aftermarket too I think. They are pretty dark. I get warning from all rear lights not working and the front ‘park’ lights. 
 

Thanks again

Kenny

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Morning Kenny

I don't understand folks who spend good money to do an "upgrade" that makes it worse???

Use BMW Vin Decoder put your Vin number into the search box it will call up your cars build sheet. BMW use codes for equipment probably something like S522A (that would indicate Xenon 

I honestly thought all E60/61 and F15 builds came with Bi-Xenon not halogen. I have read a lot over the years of people trying to make the halo's brighter, not read anything about changing headlamps for aftermarket??

I have seen some bodges where headlamp units have been fitted that come from newer models (sorted a couple of Range Rovers for friends of our sons) It will be interesting to know what your car came with against what is there now. Do you have a BMW specific code reader? That would give us more information, a copy of INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 or i carsoft would cost about the same as a single diagnostic session at a Dealer. Plus going forward it will help a lot with knowing whats going on with your car.

Dave

 

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1 hour ago, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

I don't understand folks who spend good money to do an "upgrade" that makes it worse???

Use BMW Vin Decoder put your Vin number into the search box it will call up your cars build sheet. BMW use codes for equipment probably something like S522A (that would indicate Xenon 

I honestly thought all E60/61 and F15 builds came with Bi-Xenon not halogen. I have read a lot over the years of people trying to make the halo's brighter, not read anything about changing headlamps for aftermarket??

I have seen some bodges where headlamp units have been fitted that come from newer models (sorted a couple of Range Rovers for friends of our sons) It will be interesting to know what your car came with against what is there now. Do you have a BMW specific code reader? That would give us more information, a copy of INPA/ISTA or BMW 1.4.0 or i carsoft would cost about the same as a single diagnostic session at a Dealer. Plus going forward it will help a lot with knowing whats going on with your car.

Dave

 

Hey Dave

 

I don’t have a code reader. I read that I could use a Carly? I’d be able to turn off the voltage reader or something with it to stop the warnings? Tbh I’d rather it was just fixed. The vin reader comes up with xenon as the original lights. Doesn’t say bi xenon so assume just standard ones. 
 

The con decoder also comes up as left hand drive which has confused me. I’ll double check the bulbs but definitely does look light a halogen unit has been retrofitted. I can’t understand why you would. 
 

New to bmw so I don’t know what I carsoft etc is?

 

Many thanks again

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I had this on an older 5 series, it told me all the rear lights were off randomly. After testing every light, it turned out to be the check control unit on the light module which was located in the boot lhs if I vaguely remember. It was an older e34 mind, so it will be something completely different now! 
 

I needed to replace it for the mot and struggled to find one in a Yorkshire budget, so ended up buying a scrap car for £102 on eBay, changing the part and selling the car to the scrap dealer for £150! 
 

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Hi Kenny

Yes you can use Carly though it is a subscription service (don't know the costs) The thinking was a scan would tell you more not turn off warnings. It was more to identify specific units causing the problems. 

The light types were (IIRC) Xenon dip beam Halogen Mains, then latter models Bi Xenon the Lamp Units can be set LHD or RHD on the unit on the Bi Xenon LCM/FCM unit is where it was switched at manufacture (dont quote me on this it may be my old head dreaming)

To get back to standard what type of Light System did the Decoder list S522A or S524A that will tell us if they were Bi Xenon

With luck the plank who did this adapted the plug on the lamps and not the loom if that is so then getting hold of replacement lamp units should cure the issues as for the rears it may be that it just needs inline resistors to smooth things out.

The trick now is as X5 says is finding the sensible way forward that doesn't bend your wallet out of shape, any chance the seller would help?

Dave

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4 hours ago, Greydog said:

Hi Kenny

Yes you can use Carly though it is a subscription service (don't know the costs) The thinking was a scan would tell you more not turn off warnings. It was more to identify specific units causing the problems. 

The light types were (IIRC) Xenon dip beam Halogen Mains, then latter models Bi Xenon the Lamp Units can be set LHD or RHD on the unit on the Bi Xenon LCM/FCM unit is where it was switched at manufacture (dont quote me on this it may be my old head dreaming)

To get back to standard what type of Light System did the Decoder list S522A or S524A that will tell us if they were Bi Xenon

With luck the plank who did this adapted the plug on the lamps and not the loom if that is so then getting hold of replacement lamp units should cure the issues as for the rears it may be that it just needs inline resistors to smooth things out.

The trick now is as X5 says is finding the sensible way forward that doesn't bend your wallet out of shape, any chance the seller would help?

Dave

Hey

 

The code for the lights is S522a yes. Hopefully I’ll be able to find some at a decent price. MOT isn’t till October so got a couple of months yet.

 

What would the inline resistor look like? How does it get wired in? On every wire for each side? Never had to do that before. Probably easier just finding original rears too. 
 

I did think about the wiring loom being chopped up but I haven’t looked properly yet. 

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Morning Kenny

Just Google inline resistors or Ebay them. If the rears you have are LED then the current they draw is less than half the standard lamps, when you turn on the car self tests and thinks the rear lamps have failed. The resistor fits in line in the power lead and fools the system.

When looking for the replacement headlamp units try the specialist BMW Dismantlers, I have used Quarry Motors a few times over the years very helpful. Ask them for the loom plugs as well then if yours have been hacked a little time spent with a soldering iron will have it back to standard. Thats what I did with our sons friends RRS he had the same problem Chinese upgrade by the previous owner looked good would have been better if they didn't send the car into a hissy fit every time he turned the lights on.

Dave

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On 7/6/2021 at 6:06 AM, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

Just Google inline resistors or Ebay them. If the rears you have are LED then the current they draw is less than half the standard lamps, when you turn on the car self tests and thinks the rear lamps have failed. The resistor fits in line in the power lead and fools the system.

When looking for the replacement headlamp units try the specialist BMW Dismantlers, I have used Quarry Motors a few times over the years very helpful. Ask them for the loom plugs as well then if yours have been hacked a little time spent with a soldering iron will have it back to standard. Thats what I did with our sons friends RRS he had the same problem Chinese upgrade by the previous owner looked good would have been better if they didn't send the car into a hissy fit every time he turned the lights on.

Dave

Hey dave

I got a quote from a few places, one wanting a ridiculous £500 for just 2 front lights.  

I’ve managed to find someone on eBay breaking a pre lci with original lights, front and rear, with some loom for a bargain I thought, £210 all in. Gonna get these next week. Hopefully that’ll sort it. 
 

On another note, got in the car earlier from just popping into a shop and it was completely dead 😬 no interior lights, nothing. 
 

Wiggled the wiring to the battery and it came to life. Guess I’ve got a loose wire somewhere 🙄

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Morning Kenny

Considering what your learning about how your car has been chopped and hacked about that isn't a great surprise. 

Good news on the lights Front and rear for £210 sounds a really good price, just check the part numbers a good for your car (if you haven't already) also check whether the Control unit and Electronics unit (1 for each Headlamp) are there, they mount under the headlamp unit. The cars loom plugs into them then a short loom from them to the HID bulbs. If the units you are getting are Bi Xenon as long as the control unit and electronics box is right all should be OK. Remember double click the part numbers and you will get a list of part numbers that can be swapped without conflict.

Disconnecting the battery for 30mins is a Dealer trick to reset everything maybe the seller had done that and not tightened things up ?? A scan for faults would tell you as even faults not present are held in the memory.

Sounds like progress 

Dave

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On 7/8/2021 at 7:22 AM, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

Considering what your learning about how your car has been chopped and hacked about that isn't a great surprise. 

Good news on the lights Front and rear for £210 sounds a really good price, just check the part numbers a good for your car (if you haven't already) also check whether the Control unit and Electronics unit (1 for each Headlamp) are there, they mount under the headlamp unit. The cars loom plugs into them then a short loom from them to the HID bulbs. If the units you are getting are Bi Xenon as long as the control unit and electronics box is right all should be OK. Remember double click the part numbers and you will get a list of part numbers that can be swapped without conflict.

Disconnecting the battery for 30mins is a Dealer trick to reset everything maybe the seller had done that and not tightened things up ?? A scan for faults would tell you as even faults not present are held in the memory.

Sounds like progress 

Dave

Hi Dave

 

its the original spec ones. Xenon dipped and halogen main. Should be fine. 
 

I checked the rears this morning and they are normal bulbs not led. Only thing different I could see was there was a loom adapter from the light to the main harness. Well I assume it’s different as I’ve never seen a car with an adapter from lights to loom? Can’t understand the all light failure warnings from the rear

 

ta

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Hi Kenny

Check the lights where the bulb mount twists in any corrosion even a little can cause a hissy fit (common issue with the E53) I cleaned mine and rubbed a little conductive paste on (same as used to mount the chip in a computer around it no issues for 5 years.

Loom adapter ? New one on me but as the old saying goes "Every day is a school day" check the earth connection though, odd ball thought could the extended length in the loom be the cause?

Dave

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7 hours ago, Greydog said:

Hi Kenny

Check the lights where the bulb mount twists in any corrosion even a little can cause a hissy fit (common issue with the E53) I cleaned mine and rubbed a little conductive paste on (same as used to mount the chip in a computer around it no issues for 5 years.

Loom adapter ? New one on me but as the old saying goes "Every day is a school day" check the earth connection though, odd ball thought could the extended length in the loom be the cause?

Dave

Hey Dave

So I took the rear cover off and had a better look tonight. Took some pics too and added them. They look like lci lights? The bulB holder is marked from August 06 till June 08?

After a quick google they are definitely LCI lights and bulb holders.

What do you reckon? Just a bad install? Would coding the lights work? I will get a look and check if the lm module has been changed. Is this under the glovebox?

9FF50CF9-B734-4B0E-A626-A32BE837AC26.thumb.jpeg.cb9abebf4020638e32ee0ac9b1ff3ef8.jpeg

DB586614-41F7-4840-BA91-C875C9309BC6.jpeg

9A9A203D-DE27-4278-8EAA-6A90DFEA975C.jpeg

94CCFAE6-DC66-4CB4-974E-AA0492801320.jpeg

1703EE78-35FB-4D74-8121-1A84A2806A5D.jpeg

5C5817AD-2A3E-467F-BDB9-EA1355D79F78.jpeg

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Morning Kenny

Just had a quick look at realoem, there is a light set (Outer and Bulb holder) that fall into the date range you have for manufacture that are non exchangeable with the OEM fittings. So looking at the BMW part number on the bulb holder it is (last 6 digits) 177701 (left) 177702 (right) they are the ones marked non-exchangeable. I just checked TIS to see if I could find a reason for them not being exchangeable but cant find any bulletins, strangely BMW make the adapter harness so I assume they were produced for a specific market with lighting restrictions we are not aware of ??? perhaps lower resistance ?? My next door neighbour is pretty high up in BMW I will ask him if there are any internal bulletins that would help? I wonder if lust a change of lamp holder is possible ? Or if your unit should have LED lamps fitted ? 

The LCM is in the passenger footwell as you say, but I think you can only turn off bulb checks, not sure if you turn them off in the LM or through the IKE (X5 is IKE) 

OK just got some information which looks a bit of a faff so grab a beer your reading glasses and a comfy seat. This comes from a guy who made the change on his 06 530d

 

The coding first as this will make more sense when I discuss the pin swapping on the retrofit harness. 

This assumes you are familiar with NCSEXPERT also, again there are plenty of guides on this. In the LM2, you need to change:

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

all of the above are in relation to the LED indicators and this tells the LM2 to not carry out cold or warm bulb checks and not report any check control messages in due course.

Lastly, you need to change:

PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL from wert_05 to wert_02 and wert_04

This disables the brake light being used as a side light (I will explain this shortly). Essentially it changes the voltage output from 6.598v to 0v

PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_33 from wert_05 to wert_04

This increases the tail light voltage from the default 6.598v to 100% (around 13.8v)

PWM_AN_NSL_SL from wert_02 and wert_03 to wert_01

This disables the fog light from being used as a side light by reducing the voltage from the default 4.699v to 0v

We have to disable the fog light and brake light as side lights as we have increased the voltage on the side light to 100% therefore you wouldn't be able to tell when pressing the brake or putting the rear fogs on as the brightness wouldn't change.

 

The bulb checks on the Pre-LCI as standard for the inner side lights are turned off by default so we don't need to edit the coding on these.

 

The plan is to use the increased side light voltage to power the LED rods to match the OEM LCI lights brightness. The brake light will be utilised in the fog assembly and the fog light will be placed where the brake light was before (the outer light). The inner side light will no longer be powered as that is what we are using. This gives us the Ricky brake effect.

In order to achieve this the following pins need to be swapped on the retrofit harness:

Left hand side rear light
Pin 1 = ground - OK
Pin 2 = fog light - move to Pin 6 brake light
Pin 3 = Reverse - OK
Pin 4 = Side Light - OK (when you get the harness, this linked to Pin 7 on the LCI connector, this need to be moved on the LCI connector side to Pin 4 (LED rods) as we are no longer using the side bulbs
Pin 5 = Indicator - OK
Pin 6 = brake light - move to Pin 2

Right hand side rear light
Exactly the same as above but Pin 4 needs to be moved from Pin 7 on the LCI connector to Pin 2 on the LCI connector side (LED rods)

And that's it!! Plug your lights in with 0 errors and give yourself a pat on the back as you have saved yourself £200+ on buying Bruce Miranda cables and you have a working solution with no need for resisters or relays etc.

 

It took me a few attempts to get the coding right but hopefully this will help a few people who are interested in this upgrade. If you have welcome lights coded as well these will light up the LED rods now as well instead of the halogen lights which look a lot smarter.

 

images.png

Just seems like a major pain in the backside as most LED lamps sold now have built in resistors I have LED front side lights LED number plate lights and LED third brake light with no warnings on the bulb check just a straight swap (well bit of soldering required with the third brake light) 

Dave

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5 hours ago, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

Just had a quick look at realoem, there is a light set (Outer and Bulb holder) that fall into the date range you have for manufacture that are non exchangeable with the OEM fittings. So looking at the BMW part number on the bulb holder it is (last 6 digits) 177701 (left) 177702 (right) they are the ones marked non-exchangeable. I just checked TIS to see if I could find a reason for them not being exchangeable but cant find any bulletins, strangely BMW make the adapter harness so I assume they were produced for a specific market with lighting restrictions we are not aware of ??? perhaps lower resistance ?? My next door neighbour is pretty high up in BMW I will ask him if there are any internal bulletins that would help? I wonder if lust a change of lamp holder is possible ? Or if your unit should have LED lamps fitted ? 

The LCM is in the passenger footwell as you say, but I think you can only turn off bulb checks, not sure if you turn them off in the LM or through the IKE (X5 is IKE) 

OK just got some information which looks a bit of a faff so grab a beer your reading glasses and a comfy seat. This comes from a guy who made the change on his 06 530d

 

The coding first as this will make more sense when I discuss the pin swapping on the retrofit harness. 

This assumes you are familiar with NCSEXPERT also, again there are plenty of guides on this. In the LM2, you need to change:

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv

all of the above are in relation to the LED indicators and this tells the LM2 to not carry out cold or warm bulb checks and not report any check control messages in due course.

Lastly, you need to change:

PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL from wert_05 to wert_02 and wert_04

This disables the brake light being used as a side light (I will explain this shortly). Essentially it changes the voltage output from 6.598v to 0v

PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_33 from wert_05 to wert_04

This increases the tail light voltage from the default 6.598v to 100% (around 13.8v)

PWM_AN_NSL_SL from wert_02 and wert_03 to wert_01

This disables the fog light from being used as a side light by reducing the voltage from the default 4.699v to 0v

We have to disable the fog light and brake light as side lights as we have increased the voltage on the side light to 100% therefore you wouldn't be able to tell when pressing the brake or putting the rear fogs on as the brightness wouldn't change.

 

The bulb checks on the Pre-LCI as standard for the inner side lights are turned off by default so we don't need to edit the coding on these.

 

The plan is to use the increased side light voltage to power the LED rods to match the OEM LCI lights brightness. The brake light will be utilised in the fog assembly and the fog light will be placed where the brake light was before (the outer light). The inner side light will no longer be powered as that is what we are using. This gives us the Ricky brake effect.

In order to achieve this the following pins need to be swapped on the retrofit harness:

Left hand side rear light
Pin 1 = ground - OK
Pin 2 = fog light - move to Pin 6 brake light
Pin 3 = Reverse - OK
Pin 4 = Side Light - OK (when you get the harness, this linked to Pin 7 on the LCI connector, this need to be moved on the LCI connector side to Pin 4 (LED rods) as we are no longer using the side bulbs
Pin 5 = Indicator - OK
Pin 6 = brake light - move to Pin 2

Right hand side rear light
Exactly the same as above but Pin 4 needs to be moved from Pin 7 on the LCI connector to Pin 2 on the LCI connector side (LED rods)

And that's it!! Plug your lights in with 0 errors and give yourself a pat on the back as you have saved yourself £200+ on buying Bruce Miranda cables and you have a working solution with no need for resisters or relays etc.

 

It took me a few attempts to get the coding right but hopefully this will help a few people who are interested in this upgrade. If you have welcome lights coded as well these will light up the LED rods now as well instead of the halogen lights which look a lot smarter.

 

images.png

Just seems like a major pain in the backside as most LED lamps sold now have built in resistors I have LED front side lights LED number plate lights and LED third brake light with no warnings on the bulb check just a straight swap (well bit of soldering required with the third brake light) 

Dave

Deffo need a beer for that lol

 

was wondering, on one of the pics you can see a wire from the lci plug cut, the white with a a stripe. 

since all the lights except the indicator (they are deffo led) are normal ones, could this be the issue

also, what watt should the pre lci v lci bulbs be?

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Morning Kenny

No I had missed the cut wire I was searching for part numbers 😕

My neighbour sent me the attached PDF which is direct from the dealer work shop manual so get another beer and your reading glasses ready 🤣BMW Wiring Lights E60.pdf

This is the Dealer workshop instructions for upgrading Pre-LCI to LCI lights. as you will expect it has many warnings (in case numpty's like us get our hands on them) A quick look at the wiring diagram shows the White with Black trace wire attached it also appears left side is White Black trace (WS/SW) and Right should be White Red trace (WS/RT). Who tried the upgrade initially came from the Jeremy Clarkson mechanics school "I mean how hard can it be" ??

If all the basics make sense and meet up with these pages getting the car to recognise the upgrade should be straight forward 

Hope this helps

Dave

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10 hours ago, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

No I had missed the cut wire I was searching for part numbers 😕

My neighbour sent me the attached PDF which is direct from the dealer work shop manual so get another beer and your reading glasses ready 🤣BMW Wiring Lights E60.pdf

This is the Dealer workshop instructions for upgrading Pre-LCI to LCI lights. as you will expect it has many warnings (in case numpty's like us get our hands on them) A quick look at the wiring diagram shows the White with Black trace wire attached it also appears left side is White Black trace (WS/SW) and Right should be White Red trace (WS/RT). Who tried the upgrade initially came from the Jeremy Clarkson mechanics school "I mean how hard can it be" ??

If all the basics make sense and meet up with these pages getting the car to recognise the upgrade should be straight forward 

Hope this helps

Dave

Hey. Excellent attachment. 
 

if I’m not following the rule of Clarkson, the wire that has been cut is the route pick up that should be wired down to the lm module?

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Morning Kenny

Glad it helps

There used to be a BMW TIS site available that ran alongside realoem which was a massive help to guys like us. Both sites are USA based (due to the access/competition laws I believe) but BMW found away to pull the TIS site and make it subscription only!!

Hope things go smoother now

Dave

 

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That linked PDF above is brilliant. We should start a thread with links like this with information in it arranged in the formats of the different models of BMW's. Then people with informative PDF's for each model can upload information for the members to freely download when needed. ....or is this already a thing? 🤔

Either way, I have some great info on F10/F11 models that I would like to share as im sure most people do. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/12/2021 at 6:49 AM, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

Glad it helps

There used to be a BMW TIS site available that ran alongside realoem which was a massive help to guys like us. Both sites are USA based (due to the access/competition laws I believe) but BMW found away to pull the TIS site and make it subscription only!!

Hope things go smoother now

Dave

 

Hey Dave. 
 

so I’ve changed the rear to standard units and the warning have gone now. 
 

I have taken the smoked rears off and the are genuine hella ones but I can’t find any info on any of the codes on the light. 
 

ive found ;

164 298 housing

164 300 lens 

164 312 reflex reflector lens

164 314 reflex reflector smr 

164 302 additional reflector 

164 308 bezel

164 306 bezel

 

any ideas? Just looking to get an idea on price to sell them at really. They are deffo LCI ones tho and the bulb holder comes from LCI type. 

image.jpg

DABE6DC7-E81F-44DA-A427-82DF2E14B6A4.jpeg

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Morning Kenny

I wonder if the numbers are Hella moulding assembly numbers possibly 

Try realoem but search manually select US model they do have different lighting laws or try a part number search using the numbers you have

As for a price to sell them, I would check all the usual suspects ebay amazon etc, plus contact a few BMW specialist breakers see what they would sell them at

Dave

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14 hours ago, Greydog said:

Morning Kenny

I wonder if the numbers are Hella moulding assembly numbers possibly 

Try realoem but search manually select US model they do have different lighting laws or try a part number search using the numbers you have

As for a price to sell them, I would check all the usual suspects ebay amazon etc, plus contact a few BMW specialist breakers see what they would sell them at

Dave

I’m just gonna put them up for sale at a reasonable amount from what I can see online lol 

I have another issue, yes another one lol. Removed the retro fitted fronts today and replaced them oem ones. 
 

All work fine apart from the passenger halos. Non of the 2 work. I traced the wire back a touch and found the green/grey(white) wire was broken. I attempted a crude repair just to get them working as it’s late and I’m working in the morning. I couldn’t get the halos to work at all. Keep getting the front left parking light failure warning message. Any ideas where to start? I only took a new piece of wire and wrapped the cores around each other to try get it to work. Will they need proper soldering to get them to work? The inside core of the wire isn’t brass coloured anymore  

 

 

16BF7635-6B31-4AEB-81E8-F00A13A449AE.jpeg

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