Kenny535d

Hey all I have a random one hopefully someone can help with. I have a pre lci 535d with my iPhone connected through Bluetooth to the hands free. I was sat waiting for my little un coming out dancing the other day and someone sent me a video through iMessage. When I pressed play the sound played through the hands free 🤔 it came up as a current connection in the communication menu on the idrive. This cut the sound from the radio and played the videos sound. Soon as I clicked stop the radio took back over. It still happens. Any ideas why or what this is? I can’t play any other audio through the hands free, videos or music saved on my phone don’t work but a video sent in a message will

Hey dave So I’ve been back today and the gearbox needed another half litre to top it off, rock steady revs but still get a touch of slip in the first coupe gears sometimes. Would this dr tranny help that? At the same time I’ve had a couple of thermostats added. I’ve read online too many stories about new stats failing shortly after use so I’ve opted for the in hose ones for box and engine. I know they aren’t oe spec but the temp readings are pretty much good. Mpg is back up to where it was during the summer. The hidden dash temp does rise a fair bit over the 92. Promptly returned to 88 though within seconds, can tell with the temp reading when the stats open up. I’ve released any pressure in the tank earlier so will see what’s what tomorrow.

It’s most definitely testing my patience lol. the boy from The garage called me saying it wouldn’t select any forward gears. Only reverse. I got back to the garage and he Started to drain the fluid to remove it to put the old one back on and realised there wasn’t enough oil in it. The tc was done too so took more oil that just the service kit I think. once it was topped up it’s been fine since, well I say fine, getting a tiny bit of slip before it engages. Think the oil may have settled a tad too low overnight/leaked. Going back to have it checked, but is completely night and day to the old box, the oil was like tar. it was not a nice afternoon after spending the best part of 1k to have this all done and get a call saying it’s not working. Lol. Thankfully and hopefully it’s just needing a little too up. Poor lad in the garage, his face was almost the same colour as mine at the thought of having to put the old box on, hats off to him for persevering and finding the issue

Hey all cars in for a box replacement. The mechanic knew the car the box was from and has driven that car just before I bought the box. it’s all in mine now but only works in reverse. No forwards gears. The clutch pressures etc are all ok and there no fault codes. currently stood 70 miles from home with a car that only goes backwards. any ideas before I need to put the old knackered box back in?

My activities from today, stripping the m sport interior from a donor car. Goodbye 2 tone grey/black interior, when I get to stripping mine lol

Yip. Thankfully bmw had some of the seals so it’s all back together and running again, apart from me being to heavy handed and snapping a hose clip lol. It’s absolutely caked in oil though. Absolutely everywhere. Think it’s coming from the plastic intake pipe and spraying everywhere, only seems to be on that side of the engine and worst right behind and below that pipe. Next port of call is a steam clean and find the leak properly. Not in the mind set to just throw money at it. That being said, just to be sure I went and bought an inspection light to make sure the seals I found missing hadn’t fell down inside the head lol, least that will come in handy to find the engine mount vac pipes. Only ones I couldn’t get to.

hey all Was doing my vac line today and came across a few odd things. Firstly the way they are on my car isn’t the same as any images I can see. The ones to the pressure converters were round the wrong way 🤔 I still get good boost from both turbos but odd why they are the opposite way. Would this make any difference? Also took the inlet off to check for swirl delete. Thankfully that’s already done by previous owner. The egr valve is in place but came across it looking like it’s been welded? I’ve attached a pic and also one of a random blocked vac line. I assume this is for the egr, on ista it shows as egr not being requested so assume this has been coded out but all left in place? Also found 4 of the 7 back up rings missing from the inlet manifold. Very odd Indeed. They haven’t fell anywhere just don’t seem to be there 😳

Hey I’m trying my best to find my way round realoem lol. If I’m correct the mechatronics are the same in all these models?

Yes, parts from 3 cars on so far 🤣. Getting there tho. Ive had a good look through realoem for the control unit you mentioned. Is this actually in the box? Or somewhere else?

Morning dave Excellent, I thought as much. I had a good click through realoem for the TC. I think they are the same part in both the 30 and 35?

As title really. From what I can read and research these are the same boxes? Mines is 2005 and the donor is 2006 Are there actually any differences? I’ve checked realoem with my vin and can’t really make any sense of what other boxes for as when I clicked on them they just come as specified part not found I’ll be doing this swop myself plus some help, is it as easy and replacing it and off I go? Will there be any coding to do etc etc.

Went to have a look at the pdc module as ista only shows up as 1 failed sensor so should still work. I never expected to find this. Expected to find more electrics in here?

My next mission now the gearbox is half sorted (just need to get it fitted) I am going to sort the interior out and get rid of the mismatched interior. I have a donor car with full black trims, carpets etc. I have no issue giving this a bash but was wondering a couple of things. 1. any special tools needed for anything? I had a quick look and see the torx bolt on the floor for the seats look an odd size? 2. The bottom of my dash is light grey, do I need to replace the whole dash or can I just replace these parts? 3. How difficult should the carpet change be? Any wires to look out for underneath or anything else? 4. the donor car doesn’t have the climate controls on the rear of the centre console but does have an aux input. I’d much rather have this tbh. Will there be wiring already in my car for it or do I need to procure something from the donor car? 5. The ‘new’ interior hasn’t got heated seats, the ones in mine are even although they aren’t m sport seats. I’m not too fussed on having heated seats and I noticed the idrive doesn’t have a heated seat control in it so assume these ones were half retrofitted like everything else lol. Can I just leave plugs undone or can I move heat pads or such like into the new seats? Think that’s it for now, will add anything else I think as I’m sure there will be more lol ta k

🤣 if we’re talking butchered car/electrics/suspension/interiors then my car is the car for you🤣 As Dave said I’d also go with coil overs. If your not wanting to spend north of 1k you can buy a decent set of new coil overs from prosport (on mine) or stance plus. There is probably a few more too. I don’t mind the ride so much but it can be pretty savage depending on the roads. Soon find out what’s loose on the car lol. Speed bumps are a no no. No matter what size they are, however mine are set way too low from the previous owner and not one corner is the same 🤣 Am I correct in thinking the F10 has 8 gears? That’s a lot of paddling lol. Deffo slip Ring and wiring needed. I briefly read into adding it to mine as a future project. Don’t think there’s is any coding needed. I think they will override the shifter controls? I decided against it for now, purely for the fact there is so much torque from these engines and the box will kick down 1 or 2 gears anyway depending how far you press the accelerator down, there’s always the little bit extra when the pedal feels like it’s on the floor but it’s not. For me, seems more like a gimmick 🤷‍♂️ This was probably the best guide I came across https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/diy-complete-pnp-harness-for-paddle-shifter-retrofit-a-pictorial-guide.576444/ Apologies if I’m not meant to post another forum 🙈

Thought I’d start a new thread to save cluttering the other one. I’m investigating the seatbelt/airbag/restraint warnings I’m getting. I went and took some pics earlier to show what I’ve found. I expected the occupancy sensor on the passenger seat to either be missing or wires to have been chopped. The sensor is still the and looks like all the wires are intact, I am getting a “not present” code on ISTA. Should I just buy a new sensor or is it more likely the seat pad is knackered and I should get an emulator for it. On further investigations I think these seat came from an SE spec 5 series, not the original m sport ones 🙄 I did however find 2 cut wires and a resistor of some sorts soldered into wires under the drivers seat. 🤷‍♂️ Pics below

Thankfully the wires are all intact. Just need to find the controls.

Surprise surprise. Checked for the rear climate controls. Nothing there. Just a wee storage compartment. Wires all laying in behind it. Another ‘mod’ 🤦‍♂️

Top man Dave. I’ll check the wiring for the seat occupancy sensor. Seems very odd and not particularly surprising if it’s not even there 🤣

Hey all So I’ve got the cable and got ISTA up and running. There’s only a few codes persistently popping up since the place cleared them a couple of weeks ago; AUC sensor Rear stratification controller Fogging sensor PDC rear centre left (pdc doesn’t work, on ISTA how can I find out more details, I’m sure I read there has to be more than a few sensors out for the system not to work?) Passenger seat occupancy comes up as not fitted 🧐 I’ve reset them again through ISTA but it tells me to turn off ignition and remove key then ISTA just stays on the screen for a long time until I got bored and hit cancel. Even after pressing cancel they disappear until I do another test 😕 any hints and tips for me? 😊

Hey dave I’ll have a look for that. May help in the interim. The box I mentioned is still on the guys car. I did have a think on driving down to pick it up and booking somewhere near there to get it fitted on the same day

Thanks again Dave They asked me if I wanted them to do an oil and filter change. I said no. They wanted like 300 quid. Didn’t see the point at the moment till I figure what I’ll do. I’ve found a second hand box that’s had a full recon 2 years ago for £650 with the tc. Seems reasonable enough? Just waiting for proof of it before I decide what to do. Sorry, I prob didn’t explain properly what I meant by cruise. I didn’t mean cruise control. Just meant whilst cruising along at any given speed. There’s no jerking etc if I do use the cruise control and turn it off.

Wish I'd bought this a couple weeks ago lol. Can't find any with the software preloaded and a cable now. Could you point me in the direction of a decent download for ISTA+ and I'll just got with the original plan and use my external HDD? Also, are there any cables to avoid or do they all pretty much do the same thing?/ Thanks K

Thank you for the reply. The codes have been cleared as above so when I get my ISTA I can recheck and see if any others have popped up. The place I used was solely a gearbox 'specialist' who do a lot of work on these boxes. Did wonder why the price was as high though tbh. They based everything on the mbar readings from the clutches. I've read a lot on them and seems to be fixed by replacing seals and sleeves? I can't understand the no fault reading for the box either.

Hey Dave funny you should mention the low voltage, I had issues with the battery connection sometimes working loose. This has been resolved now. Sometimes when I pressed the start button the car would just click then there would be no power, I knew when that happened the connection had come loose again. I didn't ask them to do a diagnostics, they said they just do that anyway to find any issues with the box. They said there were no faults stored for the box, only that some of the mbar readings were high. I do have some jerky changes now and then plus the slipping sometimes, these issues are pretty much non existent whilst driving in manual mode, do however have a constant surging on the revs on cruise/part throttle . This is why I thought it was possibly low on box oil and why I booked it into them. They are a zf box 'specialist' I will be buying my own ista shortly, on a plus note they must have cleared the fault codes as the SRS warnings haven't appeared back since it was in. The errors on the dash were the SRS and still have oil sensor and pdc, these just flash up on IDrive though, not on the actual dash if you get me.

Hey all So, had my car in the gearbox specialist today for a service. Unfortunately they have said the box is done and quoted me 3k to refurb it and replace the clutches etc inside. The reading they told me it should be was 150mbar ish but only 2 of them were. Worst one was reading at 700. I’ve no idea what that means but he explained that’s the reason for the slipping in some circumstances. Also the torque converter needs doing or replaced. I am not gonna pay that in a repair for a car that cost me just over half of the repair lol. I’ve also attached some pics of the diagnostics they done. They didn’t want to give me this for some reason but got it eventually. Question is, do I get a second hand box and work through the fault list or cut my losses and find another car? With the amount of faults the ecu is showing I’m surprised it even starts never mind runs 🤣