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Greydog

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Everything posted by Greydog

  1. Morning Vasile Welcome to the Forum Sorry but I cant read the information you have posted so I am unable to help What are the symptoms and issue your having Dave
  2. Hi Andrew Lucky you haven't got an E70 Transfer case oil I was quoted £60 a litre 😪 No I didn't pay it, got it from ZF a 1/3rd of the price Try ZF direct or a ZF Agent or if you have the part number try Euro Car Parts or Google Good Luck Happy Christmas Dave
  3. Morning Richard Car change time always difficult First try as many as you can (extended test drive if possible) so you have a good comparison. The car condition and history are paramount don't just look at it check it online. If BMW is your choice, buying from a BMW Dealer will give some comfort as the car should come with an AUC Warranty. If buying from a Non BMW Dealer it may be worth paying for an AA/RAC report on the car and insisting on a Warranty (make sure it is in the sale price not and extra) My personal preference is as many bells and whistles as possible apart from a Sun Roof when you have AC/Climate control I don't see the point. If buying privately then you will be largely on your own so making all sensible checks would be essential Dave
  4. Morning Shaun Welcome to the Forum The PDC system unfortunately only needs 1 sensor wonky to throw out the lot as you have discovered. The front sensors tend to live a harder life due to road spray being driven into them. The sensors are not difficult to change though on the front corners you do have to release the front bumper the corner sensors are different (angled) to the centre ones. When I did the job on my E53 4.6is I bit the bullet and changed all 4 that was 10 years ago still all good. As for high miles my 4.6is is on 164k and a friends 3.0d 2003 290k so with a little TLC they are tough cars, invest in a copy of BMW 1.4.0 it will allow Dealer level access and Diagnostics (about £25) ENJOY Dave
  5. Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum If you buy from a BMW Dealer you should get a BMW AUC (BMW Approved Used Car) with a Warranty (make sure it is 12months). I would always go for the highest spec you can get as adding bells and whistles is rarely cheap or simple. If buying from a Non BMW Dealer condition, history and spec are the key drivers but also the Warranty (at least 12months) make sure it included in the screen price some of these guys are cute at supplying the minimum Warranty they can get away with and getting the customer to pay for any extension. Good Luck with the hunt Dave
  6. Morning Julian Both my X5's are warm within a mile or two of driving off, maybe 5 mins in time. So you do have a problem my advice would be change the main thermostat. You need the codes read to find the fault on the e Drive heating Dave
  7. Whoop Whoop well done Jim perseverance pays, now you can enjoy your BMW again Dave
  8. Morning Martin As I said in earlier posts if the "Fault" can be agued as already there when purchased, which you certainly can "light on next day" then you will be covered by the Sale of Goods Act talk to Citizens Advice. There are also Distance Selling laws to cover your situation Yes you can check the condition of the timing chain, engine warmed up engine off remove the oil filler and the chain should be visible with a hook see if it is tight, if slack there is an issue. The BMW equipment can measure precise movement allowing life to be assessed. and work scheduled. As for the Seller ask for a list of exactly what was included in their 250 point check and service, my guess would be oil and air filter change new oil (was it correct for the car 5 30 grade Fully Synthetic) stick on the Diagnostic machine clear any codes start up if no lights on job done!!! Dave
  9. Morning Jim A step ? Not sure in which direction but you are gaining knowledge, I just wonder why some Dealers seem to bend over backwards and others are the complete opposite?? It can only come from the top. My nearest BMW Dealer I have found to be in the first group always polite and helpful but then they have 2 excellent BMW Specialists within 10 miles who are roughly half the cost hourly rate wise maybe that keeps them sharper. Good Luck Dave
  10. Hi Martin Two things first make sure that all communication is by Email a Text is not a legal recognised form. Second Google BMW Specialists there will be one not far away from you and normally about half BMW Dealer costs due to their hourly rates being lower. Lastly sensors are simple to test with a multi meter and often over looked is the heating side of an O2 sensor has a fuse that needs checking. Vanos sensors do die, as do the solenoids Good Luck Dave
  11. Hi Julian BMW's have been power hungry beasts since the 90's when Bus systems became the way forward. With the 12v battery replaced you will probably find the other "scary" list has gone or shows as Fault not Present so clearing the memory will do it. Dave
  12. Morning Jim Welcome to the Forum Not Good. Your action so far is spot on I would ask for schedule of the work carried out during the recall that will help understand what was "disturbed" during the work. Hopefully the BMW Tech will decide in your favour but have the independent in the wings just in case Dave
  13. I know the 550i is rear drive but I have repaired a 330i that had similar issues and the culprit was a rear wheel bearing. The owner had replaced both front bearings and still had the symptoms. I have also seen a cracked front hub which gave similar symptoms to a failed bearing When you replaced them were they shot? Dave
  14. Hi Martin Under the Sale of Goods Act if the "Fault" was present at purchase (EML on) and the seller contacted then there is no limit until the problem is solved. I believe the Garage should be given 1 opportunity to repair if they can't then a replacement or refund is the way to go I would explain the situation (if you haven't already) in writing and Email is legal, also include mention of the stress caused Could they not supply you with a loan car while yours is being assessed and repaired if you don't ask you don't get/ Good luck Dave
  15. Morning Dieter Welcome to the Forum Have you checked all four bearings ? I would start there. Drive shafts checked ? Disc seated properly If all the above has been done has there been any damage to the Hub itself on that side Dave
  16. Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum First if I understand the situation, you are in the UK and purchased the car here. If that is the case then the Sale of Goods Act is on your side take advise fast as you may be able to either get a repair, replacement or your money back. Your first code indicates fuel pressure as does the second, the third can indicate a stretched chain but also an exhaust Vanos fault An O2 sensor code can be a symptom not the cause, it could be an Air or Vacuum leak I would get either a BMW specialist or Dealer (more expensive) to run a Diagnostic check and then talk to the Garage Hope this helps not hinders Dave
  17. Morning Julian Welcome to the Forum Well as they say "every day is a school day" never heard of this but here are my thoughts for what they may be worth. The charge is to the Traction Batteries if the 12v battery is down on power or failing it will divert all power to essential functions, communication with the Phone apps will probably be way down the list. Hope it is an easy fix (ie) New Battery and Reset Let us know the outcome Dave
  18. Morning Bill Welcome to the Forum Do you mean the self-levelling system or the shocks ? Not a job I have ever done but if you haven't already, take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. If you have a copy of INPA/ISTA look at the TIS and it should give information on the BMW Workshop sequence for servicing the suspension. Good Luck Dave
  19. Morning Kobe Welcome to the Forum First break down the issues you have the O2 sensor will not stop the car starting so the priority is to find out why it won't start. You have had water in the main engine fuse box I would pull the starter relay and check it while there check all the relays. Don't dismiss the battery check it or get it checked you should measure 12.5v to 12.8v at the charging points under the bonnet engine off ignition on. Anything below 12.5 will indicate a discharged or dying battery, first action fully charge the battery. Make sure the Main Fuse box is fully dried out, check each fuse and relay as already said and replace as required (don't just look at them test them). Then if the water ingress didn't cause any other damage, start the car. Your O2 sensor fault indicates the Heater circuit so with the fuse and sensors replaced fingers crossed it should be OK. Disconnect the battery in the boot (Neg First) for at least 15min to reset the fault codes, then run the car and rescan. Good Luck Dave
  20. Morning John As I understand it, it works is as follows or I should say the information I can find shows , it2) Key hole in the vertical position: Unlocking the car with FOB will unlock the glove box. Locking the car with the FOB will lock the glove box. 3) To manually unlock the glove box with key: Insert the key and turn it slightly to the left (counter clockwise) about 15% left of vertical or until it feels like it stops. At this time you should be able to (with key still in it) and pull open the box. You do not need to lift the handle to open it since the inside spring will compress the teeth together that hold the box from falling down on its own. You should hear and feel the mechanism moving when you do this. This is good news (if you hear/feel this) because you will confirm that the actuator mechanism is working fine and its only a matter of playing with it to get it unstuck In other words you do not need to spend money to replace it!. Hope this helps
  21. Not sure what you're trying to do here Alexandu If you want/need to see live data then INPA/ISTA is the only Diagnostic as far as I am concerned. I have read of other systems such as Autologic, i-Carsoft etc are capable but have not seen them in operation. Dave
  22. Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum I would start with your local BMW Dealer; I have always found them very helpful particularly when there is a potential sale to be made. They should be able to explain the different trim levels plus they will have access to a Range of BMW Approved and Warrantied cars. Just too muddy the water there will be a number of cars in the used market that had been brought as say an SE but with additional customer options (Park Assist for example) The target is to get the list of what is available with their trim and option levels and see how close it comes to your wish list then negotiate price against what compromise you're willing to make. Personally, I would stick with AWD for sure footed handling in all conditions, yes you could possibly get a few more mile per gallon with front drive but if stuck on a slippery grass verge or snowy road ?? Good Luck with the Hunt Dave
  23. Morning I would ask the Dealer Service manager where you brought it if he can demonstrate how it works Dave
  24. Morning Darryl Welcome to the Forum DO NOT DRIVE the car with low oil pressure you will cause damage When was the oil level last checked? If you can't do it yourself get it checked urgently. If topping up make sure you use the correct oil Dave
  25. Morning Ash Get it checked mechanically by a qualified mechanic if all good don't be put off I have seen these with almost 250k miles on them Check the cost of major parts then use that as a negotiation lever Good Luck Dave
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